Stuck fermentation - rack before adding new yeast?

I have a set of different meads that all got stuck around 1 week (maybe a little longer) into the fermentation. They were all going really strong and then all stopped pretty suddenly. I tried adding some more yeast energizer and nutrient but it didn't seem to help. I was on vacation so I'm not totally sure what happened -- maybe the heat killed the yeast?
I'm wondering, if I add more yeast, should I first rack the mead? All of them look completely clear but have a lot of sediment at the bottom. Or should I just add the new yeast (after acclimation) and stir up the lees in the current jug or something.

this is my first go at mead making so i'm sort of playing things by ear.
Thanks

Do you have a hydrometer? It could easily have finished fermenting in a week if its realy warm.

What was your recipe, including type of yeast, and what was your original gravity and current gravity (found with the hydrometer)

I just made a batch of Joe's Quick Grape Mead (2.5 gal batch) and it finished fermenting in 6 days flat. I mixed all ingredients on Saturday afternoon, pitched yeast (EC-1118) and left it alone around 69 F room temperature. Pulled samle and its dry and started to clear, so its done. I assume you experienced same. Most likely its not stuck but rather finished fermenting! Rack that stuff and start aging!

Each of my gallon jugs have a different recipe and around 2lbs of honey in them. Some also have juices (blackberry, apple, peach etc) or spices.

I didn't take a hydro reading since I don't have one.

Type of yeast was LALVIN 71B-1122 - supposed to go up to 14% ABV.

If it is finished fermenting, do I rack it into another jug with an airlock again in case it's still fermenting a little bit? or do I just rack into sealed finished bottles?
Also, is there a way to tell what the current ABV is? I'm not sure if the yeast reached the 14% with the 2lbs of honey or if it just ran out of sugars.

thanks for all the responses everyone.

--edit--
sorry this took so long to post, I think it was awaiting moderator approval of the post for 2 days or so.

also, quick exciting note: I'm on the east coast and the hurricane knocked down huge trees/branches, including part of an enormous oak. I gathered up some chips yesterday and toasted them at different temps for different flavors and am going to add them to one of the meads.

I hope it was the right kind of oak tree...

are there wrong types of oak? When I toasted it, it smelled delicious and sweet so I figure it will be good.

Anyone have thoughts on:
If it is finished fermenting, do I rack it into another jug with an airlock again in case it's still fermenting a little bit? or do I just rack into sealed finished bottles?
Also, is there a way to tell what the current ABV is? I'm not sure if the yeast reached the 14% with the 2lbs of honey or if it just ran out of sugars.

I usually bulk age my meads, so if it were me I would rack to another carboy the same size.

I would probably add more honey though. Two pounds seems a little light. I usually use three to five pounds for a gallon. The yeast just ran out of sugar, the low amount is why it fermented so quickly.

You can buy a vinometer to get a decent guess at the ABV, I'm not sure on how accurate they are though.

evrk said:

are there wrong types of oak? When I toasted it, it smelled delicious and sweet so I figure it will be good.

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Yeah. White oak is used for aging barrels. Red oak, like that used for lumber, is not suitable for holding liquids.

For 2 lbs you're prob looking at 7-9%, so definately finished. Og to fg is really the best abv measurement we have, unless we have really really.good equipment.

huesmann said:

Yeah. White oak is used for aging barrels. Red oak, like that used for lumber, is not suitable for holding liquids.

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this is true, but the two are vastly different woods. they are groups within the oak genera, red oak group (having spines on leaf tips) and white oak (no spines on leaf tips)
anyway, a huge difference between these two woods is that the red oak group smells markedly like vomit or something else funky when it is cut or split. white oak group just smells like oaky goodness. from what you described of the smell, you have white oak group, go crazy with it.

i'll also point out that although it does smell terrible, that's not why they didn't use it for barrels. white oak has sealed vacuoles, so it is waterproof (no leaking). if you tried to make a barrel out of the red oak group, all the wine would leak out; same reason they never made ships out of red oak (well, except for just once!)

I think i'll use the oak only in half of one of the gallons, in case it ends up tasting too strange.

Should I bulk age it in the gallon jugs? or split it up into smaller bottles right now? I'm leaning toward bulk but I figured I'd ask.

I think i'll use the oak only in half of one of the gallons, in case it ends up tasting too strange.

Should I bulk age it in the gallon jugs? or split it up into smaller bottles right now? I'm leaning toward bulk but I figured I'd ask.