When to tell when to put in secondary fermentor and when to take out?

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Hey guys went to a different LHBS in my area today before work to buy some caps, and came out with a lot of great information from the owner. I've decided to put my beer in a secondary. My only question is, how do I know when I should do that?

Also once I put it in secondary, when will I know when to bottle? Thanks for any tips.
 
Hey guys went to a different LHBS in my area today before work to buy some caps, and came out with a lot of great information from the owner. I've decided to put my beer in a secondary. My only question is, how do I know when I should do that?

Also once I put it in secondary, when will I know when to bottle? Thanks for any tips.

I just learned that the beer needs to be done fermenting before racking. It goes against the old info that I thought was right.

You need a hydrometer and a gravity test in the beginning and the end of the fermentation cycle (at least 2 times). Get ready for "don't rack to a secondary".
 
I just learned that the beer needs to be done fermenting before racking. It goes against the old info that I thought was right.

You need a hydrometer and a gravity test in the beginning and the end of the fermentation cycle (at least 2 times). Get ready for "don't rack to a secondary".

Ok so what do I do with the hydrometer readings to determine if it's done or not?

Also I contemplated against not racking into a secondary and decided against it.
 
Unless you are dry-hopping or needing to age for a longer period of time I would highly recommend not moving to a secondary. I know Revvy has quite the rant out there for why moving is more hassle than it's worth. Couple of points are:
  1. Chance of Contamination goes way up
  2. Creates more stuff to clean
  3. Prevents your yeasties from doing a lot of the clarifying
  4. Is more work!

If you really want to, go ahead. If you are adding oak or dry-hopping go for it. If your brewing a regular old ale, I wouldn't invest the time unless you need to age it longer than a month before bottling/kegging. But these of course are just my thoughts ;)!
 
Ok so what do I do with the hydrometer readings to determine if it's done or not?

Also I contemplated against not racking into a secondary and decided against it.

I suggest you download brewtarget and enter your recipe info to see what the beginning and end readings should be. Then when you get down toward the target, you will be more confident that it is finished. Also hang out a little before jumping in too soon to rack/ bottle. Don't rush it.

Also read some more. There is a lot of info here to help.
 
Ok so what do I do with the hydrometer readings to determine if it's done or not?

Also I contemplated against not racking into a secondary and decided against it.

From what I understand, take a reading after about two weeks. If your reading is the same two days in a row, the fermentation is complete.
 
I can only think of one time i did a secondarr withoput doing so to ad oak or fruit etc....I don't think it really mattered.

Sounds like you are somewhat new to brewing? Keep it simple, get your santiation and procedures smooth before adding complications. You will save yourself possible frustration.
 
I believe that 99% of the time" SECONDARY" is a misnomer. There really should be no actual fermentation going on is secondary. it is really a clearing tank. Once fermentation is complete ( terminal gravity is reached or within a few points, and the gravity is steady over 3-4 days THEN if you want to move to a secondary you do so then. Siphon carefully and with no splashing. leave it in secondary until you are ready to bottle it.. no time line on this as far as I know. Mine generally are only in secondary 2-3 days as I use it as a cold crashing vessel. I do this because my primaries don't fit in my fridge.....also make sure your secondary is the same volume as your beer volume.. you want as little head space as possible.
 
I use a secondary as a means of clarifying and letting yeast drop out of suspension.

I transfer to the secondary when ALL of these are true:

1) Airlock activity stops
2) Yeast has fallen out of suspension
3) A good layer can be seen at the bottom of the carboy.

While Revvy may not recommend a secondary, and that's fine. I do it because I get less yeast and solid into the keg.

M_C
 
badbrew is right, you shouldn't move to secondary until ALL fermentation has completed, based on hydrometer readings. Then give the beer at least another week on the yeast to clean up, but unless you're adding tons of hops, fruit or other flavorings, or bulk aging for long periods of time, no secondary is really necessary. Save yourself the hassle!

Most LHBS owners were forged in a different era, when prevailing wisdom was based on a lot of hearsay from professional brewers and ingredients weren't as high quality or readily available as they are now, particularly good healthy cultured yeasts. In those days, there may have been an advantage to using a secondary on everything, but it's definitely not the case anymore. Many of us here just use a long 3-4 week primary (or whatever the beer needs based on OG and hydrometer readings) unless it's for one of the reasons I mentioned above.

As for bottling, as long as you've given the beer plenty of time (FG+a week on the yeast at minimum), as long as it tastes good you can bottle it. That said- almost all beers will be better older than younger. I'm sure everyone can agree that the last bottle in their case or the last pull from a keg is always the best. New brewers are impatient- instead of bottling too early, buy another cheap bucket and brew another batch. That always helps me from trying to drink young beer.
 
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