false bottom vs manifold

Hi there, HBT!

So, after reading all about flow potential and trying to avoid stuck sparges (and getting higher efficiency), I want to make a manifold/false bottom for my 10 gallon Home Depot mash tun.

In general, what have you guys found to be the most efficient and inexpensive route for this? I've debated making a manifold to replace my SS braided hose, and I've also considered getting a false bottom. Thoughts? Ideas? Links?

Thanks, HBT!

I'm assuming you have the round 10 gallon igloo cooler style. In that case I would go with a false bottom. If you have an ice chest you were using as a mash tun, I personally would use a manifold. I just did a 20lb mash at 1.29 qt/lb and didn't have any problems with a stuck sparge with my manifold.

False bottoms are expensive, it seems. Are there any deals out there?

I've had a manifold in my round cooler for 15+ years. Made it out of cpvc tubing. I usually get around 85% efficiency. It's octagonal shape with two additional manifolds running most of the way across the center.

I bought a false bottom for it, but the cooler warped a bit and it wouldn't seal. I have a Phil's false bottom for it that I'd let go cheap.

Spartan1979 said:

I've had a manifold in my round cooler for 15+ years. Made it out of cpvc tubing. I usually get around 85% efficiency. It's octagonal shape with two additional manifolds running most of the way across the center.

I bought a false bottom for it, but the cooler warped a bit and it wouldn't seal. I have a Phil's false bottom for it that I'd let go cheap.

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What's your price? I greatly appreciate it.

And it's a 12.85 inch diameter one for a 10 gal igloo cooler?

JoePro said:

Hi there, HBT!

So, after reading all about flow potential and trying to avoid stuck sparges (and getting higher efficiency), I want to make a manifold/false bottom for my 10 gallon Home Depot mash tun.

In general, what have you guys found to be the most efficient and inexpensive route for this? I've debated making a manifold to replace my SS braided hose, and I've also considered getting a false bottom. Thoughts? Ideas? Links?

Thanks, HBT!

Click to expand...

See this link to another similar thread and my solution.

If you just want to experiment, you can make a false bottom out of a lid. Mine was a 5Gal cooler and I needed a 9"3/4 bucket lid. A 12" may work with a 10Gal cooler. (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/2-false-bottom-250300/)

Do yourself a favor -

http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com/product/0102039/ss-false-bottom-12-in-diameter

I bought the 9" model after 2 years of screwing around with a braided manifold. I do not know why I waited so long. The only drawback is the price - and you get over that drawback as soon as you use the product. Buy this thing one time, and use it with confidence for the life of your cooler.

You noted improved fluid dynamics as one of your concerns. This is where the FB seperates itself. Wort and sparge water is free to travel uniformly downward through the grainbed, were it is seperated into a small deadspace, before being sent up and through your bulkhead. The liquid is homogeneous. On the flipside, a braid or manifold has to sit in the grainbed, and wort or sparge water has to try to travel sideways, through the grain, before exiting the tun. That trans-grain trip is what really hurts fluid dynamics when using a braid or manifold. When you look at the manifold designs in the appendix of HTB, you will notice that an excellent manifold design is simply doing its best to mimic the dynamics you would be guaranteeing yourself if you had just used the FB in the first place.

It is also worth noting, the link I gave you is for a completely stainless false bottom. I say "completely" because some of the other online vendors sell a stainless FB with brass fittings. The one at BMW uses a 3/8" SS barbed 90, which is important to note because you have to have to match that 3/8" connection with a 3/8" barb on your bulkhead.

Again, after using a FB for six months, I would never suggest using anything else.

Joe

JoePro said:

What's your price? I greatly appreciate it.

And it's a 12.85 inch diameter one for a 10 gal igloo cooler?

Click to expand...

$7 plus shipping? It's for a 10 gal.

I have a nice old copper boiler, like a farm wash tub. It holds just over 12.5 gallons, so I want to covert it to a 10 gallon gravity mash/lauter tun. Any recommendations to whether fit it with a manifold or go full false bottom? Also, how far up to tap it?

Thanks, mates!

UncleLankyFrank said:

I have a nice old copper boiler, like a farm wash tub. It holds just over 12.5 gallons, so I want to covert it to a 10 gallon gravity mash/lauter tun. Any recommendations to whether fit it with a manifold or go full false bottom? Also, how far up to tap it?

Thanks, mates!

Click to expand...

Given it shape and probably not flat bottom I think you'd have issues with a false bottom.

The thread hijack attempt reminded me of the gang from The Crimson Permanent Assurance Company


Aaaanyway...I went with the stamped 12" dome, and cinch it in place with a silicone gasket that not only pins it down but takes up the liner warpage. Works great. The clamps are likely overkill (and I can see I need to replace that hose!)

Cheers!

I started with a braid and threw it away after a handful of batches due to it collapsing. I made a manifold out of copper because it was cheaper than a false bottom, (I had some leftover parts) and I batch sparge so I felt the false bottom was not really needed.

My manifold looks like an octagon and I used a die grinder to cut holes in the bottom. I cut my holes a little bigger than most pictures I have seen on hbt, and I wrap a paint strainer bag around the manifold and then drop it in place in the cooler. This has eliminated all of the grain from my boil kettle and allows me to open the valve all the way to sparge without any problems. For me, this saves a lot of time and is worth it.

I would love a false bottom, but for now the manifold and strainer bag works very well.

Seconded on the manifold. Had a fb and grain kept getting through.