110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

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voltage at that outlet while the pot is running is 115.4-115.7 on my meter. Im thinking that may be my problem. I think i need ot go with a 2000watt element to get what i need. now to find one ulwd.
 
cheesecake said:
voltage at that outlet while the pot is running is 115.4-115.7 on my meter. Im thinking that may be my problem. I think i need ot go with a 2000watt element to get what i need. now to find one ulwd.

It sounds like your house just receives 115V. That's normal and shouldn't be a problem.
 
No, just 60 min boils. Just did a 100 IBU Citra/Nelson DIPA. It's bitterness and flavor match the recipe so I don't think I'm losing utilization much if it all.
 
It's hard to tell how hard your boiling with the water only. I wouldn't call my boils aggressive, and they only rolling boil over the element like your video seems to show. I boil off a little over a half gallon an hour. My system reads 212 when I'm boiling though, noticed yours only says 208. Could be a calibration deal though. I say give it a try, like jammin said my beer comes out awesome without an aggressive boil.
 
Brewed my second batch on the system today. Wanted to post and give a HUGE thanks to jrb and jammin for helping me along (and P-J of course for the diagram!).

Control panel


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Brewery


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Well I'm not following this whole setup exactly but I have more or less pieced together all the parts to do basically the same thing so thanks again for this great build thread! I've got almost everything I need and am ready to get started.
 
What are you guys using for grain bags. Also does your grain bag touch the element? I ran a test batch with a hwd element and I had some burning on the element from hop sludge.(Built a shield to stop the bag from touching the hwd element ) im just wondering because I ordered the lwd element and was just wondering about it touching the bag
 
I use the 5 gallon paint strainer bags from Lowe's, $3.50 for 2, and the basket that came with the bayou kettle keeps it off the element. I believe jrb mentioned he doesn't use the basket and hasn't had any issues with scorching.
 
Correct I use a paint strainer bag from lowes. The same bag for about 10 brews now. It touches the element without issue yet. I don't see the need to use the basket on mine so far. I worried about the holes on the basket restricting flow too much and tried without, and haven't seen the need to change. I use a hop bag during the boil so no hop sludge or other additions to worry about scorching.
 
Correct I use a paint strainer bag from lowes. The same bag for about 10 brews now. It touches the element without issue yet. I don't see the need to use the basket on mine so far. I worried about the holes on the basket restricting flow too much and tried without, and haven't seen the need to change. I use a hop bag during the boil so no hop sludge or other additions to worry about scorching.

Thanks thats what I was hoping for
 
Hey jrb, I copied your diptube you have shown in the first page or so on my new kettle. I don't have the element up and running yet but I've done two test batches while recirculating the wort with just a little bit of heat from the stove and I'm getting my bag sucked into the diptube which is causing the pump to sound like it's going to explode.

Have you or anyone else had this issue? How much clearance does your SS elbow sit from the bottom of the kettle? I've been able to lift it up and pin it but it's a pain in the butt to do so with clothespins. I may need to think about something to put over it.
 
Correct I use a paint strainer bag from lowes. The same bag for about 10 brews now. It touches the element without issue yet. I don't see the need to use the basket on mine so far. I worried about the holes on the basket restricting flow too much and tried without, and haven't seen the need to change. I use a hop bag during the boil so no hop sludge or other additions to worry about scorching.

^same

I need to start employing a mesh bag for my hops though. I tried the infamous stainess filter with poor resuls. I think mesh bags will be the trick. With the small batch sizes, I hate losing brew to trub in the fermenter.
 
Hey jrb, I copied your diptube you have shown in the first page or so on my new kettle. I don't have the element up and running yet but I've done two test batches while recirculating the wort with just a little bit of heat from the stove and I'm getting my bag sucked into the diptube which is causing the pump to sound like it's going to explode.

Have you or anyone else had this issue? How much clearance does your SS elbow sit from the bottom of the kettle? I've been able to lift it up and pin it but it's a pain in the butt to do so with clothespins. I may need to think about something to put over it.

My stainless elbow is very close to the bottom of the kettle, maybe 1/8" or a touch more. It doesn't leave but a few ounces in the kettle when I pump out. I didn't mean for it to be so close actually, but it seams to work great as is. I have never had it suck up my bag, never thought of that! My paint strainer bag is a little tapered towards the middle, I don't know that it could be sucked up. I will take a look at that closer on Friday when I plan to brew an Irish red :ban:

^same

I need to start employing a mesh bag for my hops though. I tried the infamous stainess filter with poor resuls. I think mesh bags will be the trick. With the small batch sizes, I hate losing brew to trub in the fermenter.

Thanks for the update on the stainless filter. I've been eyeing something like that but will stick with the trusty hop bags!
 
What exactly did you guys use to attach the element. You have the end of the extension cord coming out of the control box and plugging in to something. What is that rubberish receptacle thing and where can I find it in the hardware store? And then is there just a plug in there wired up to the element?
 
I've been a member for quite a while now, but this is my first post, so please be kind if this seems like an obvious question...

I was in the process of building an electric boil kettle (it's way too cold in green bay to brew in the garage this time of year!) when i stumbled on this thread...all i can say is PERFECT for what i'm looking to build. In the original picture, however, there are two 1k ohm 1 watt resistors leading to the e-stop...i've never used these before and am wondering if these are just spliced into the wire in a series (or parallel). If that's the case, i'm guessing that's what's hidden under the electrical tape on the wire heading from the fuse on the original poster's wiring photos.

Would someone be able/willing to let me know how these are wired???

Also, as i was typing this, it occurred to me that i could possibly use this same control box for a rims tube for my "warm-weather" brew rig...is this possible??? Seems to me you'd just remove the rtd probe and element from the kettle and put them on opposing ends of a rims tube.......right???

thanks in advance!!
 
Mike you are correct the 2 resistors are soldered together then soldered wire to the ends. I just wrapped it all in electric tape because I didn't have any shrink wrap which would be ideal. I had never used these resistors either, pretty simple.


1K_900x600_1.jpg
 
What exactly did you guys use to attach the element. You have the end of the extension cord coming out of the control box and plugging in to something. What is that rubberish receptacle thing and where can I find it in the hardware store? And then is there just a plug in there wired up to the element?

Yes mine is wired from the element to a male plug end and its held together by a rubber plumbing clamp. In this thread I have detailed the method I used, and warned that there's better ways to do it and mine probably isn't ideal. I will change mine...one day........maybe.
 
Just wondering what the splashing is going to hurt?

Hot side aeration. I guess it doesnt make that big of an impact to homebrewers, but it just looks like your pumping a garden hose in there and ive got to believe that that might have a little bit more of an impact... :drunk:
 
Question for those of you who used the Auber box and an external heat sink.

What did you use to cut the hole for the heat sink's SSR mount?
 
tyfernandez said:
Question for those of you who used the Auber box and an external heat sink.

What did you use to cut the hole for the heat sink's SSR mount?

I drilled a couple holes with the step bit and squared it off with a sawzall.
 
Dremel with a cutoff disc.

Much more precise tool than a sawzall!

I tried starting a hole and then using a sawzall; it went badly for me right away haha. I even used a fine toothed metal blade, but the material seemed a bit flimsy to remain rigid enough to be cut. Could have very well been my technique.

Like JRB, I ended up using a dremel with a cutoff disc(s).
 
I'm curious as I don't currently own a Dremel, or Sawzall if I could drill enough 4 or 5 large holes using a step bit that I'd be able to fit the mount through. The heat sink would cover up the mess.
 
The heat sink has more surface area than the SSR. it will cover up a rough hole. You just need the heat sink to contact the SSR through the thermal cement.
 
Yeah, I think I might just get a Dremel. Seems like something handy to have around the house.

Two more questions come to mind.

1. Did anyone use a fuse for the pump outlet? Seems like not a bad idea, I'm just not sure what fuse to get.

2. Is this the correct resistor?

I feel like I'm making some progress on this I just need to start ordering all the parts :).

Thanks,
Ty
 

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