esky (ice water) proof labels

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

opm

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
20
Reaction score
5
Location
Bendigo, Australia
G'day all,

I'd like to share my labeling technique, which cost under $5 a batch, is water resistant (so you can store your beers with the rest in an ice bath) and quite simple.

I've been brewing about a year or so now and have got to the point where I don't really buy beer any more. The problem is when a weekend comes around and a mate has a party or similar. (No matter how nice the beer is, people still look at you wierd when you pull a no label beer out of the esky.)
So i jumped on homebrewtalk.com and found the laserprinter and milk solution, which works a treat if you keep your beers in the fridge but lasts all of 2 seconds in an ice bath and those blue freezer blocks just couldn't keep the esky cool for long. So, back on the net looking for a label that could survive a bath. Everything I found was either very expensive or too perminate (i never brew the same thing twice and like to have all the details on the label, brew date, bottle date, %, standard drinks)
I liked what i was getting with the laserprinter and the paper seemed to stand up ok in water so the problem was the milk/glue. I started experimenting with different glues (glue stick, pva, rubber glues, basically anything i could find) doing little test labels on bottles full of water seeing how they stood up to sweating, 6hrs in ice water, and how easily they were removed for cleaning. And still couldn't find anything i was happy with.
So it was back on the net, this time reserching glues. After a couple nights of serching i'd found plenty of cold resistant glues but only in industrial quantities. After a bit more reaseach i ended up making my own glues to test and finaly found something that i consider perfect.

The great thing is all the ingredients are either pretty comman of useful for the home brewer. (for other uses do a seach for "gelatin finings" for gelatin, and "yeast banking" for glycerine)

Here it is:

Basic Waterproof Glue

* 6 tbsp water
* 2 packets unflavored gelatin (1/2 oz.)
* 2 tbsp white vinegar
* 2 tsp glycerine

Bring water to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in gelatin until it is dissolved. Add vinegar and glycerin and stir well. Let the mixture cool slightly and pour into a jar and seal tightly. To Use: This glue is best applied while warm. Apply to surfaces using a brush. Glue will gel after a few days. To re-use, warm by placing the jar in a pan of hot water. Good for binding leather to leather, fabrics to cardboard, paper to paper.


This glue is very liquid when hot/warm and is easily applied with a paint brush (just paint the whole back side of the label and stick it on, wipe any exsess off with a bit of paper towel) make sure to use a laserprinter not an inkjet or the ink will run, if you don't have one just print off a good copy and get it photo copied. Stick with square/rectangular labels and buy/borrow an a4 rotarry trimmer (beats using scissors)
It takes a couple days for the glue to fully gel, but once it has these labels hold very well in an esky of ice water for several hours, any longer than that the labels become very easy to pull or rub off but they're still not going anywhere by them self and will be fine again, once dry.
To remove, simply get your tap running as hot as it can, fill up the sink and give the bottle a soak/dunk. Depending on how hot your water gets they will need anywhere from 10sec (for boiling water) to mabey 2 mins (for warm water). and there is little to no residue left on the bottle.

I mixed up a half batch of this and have used it for three batches so far and still have at least half of it in the fridge.

(note: As an Aussie, i don't use oz. there is a chance that with all the converting and halfing that i ended up used the full 1/2oz. of galatin for my one half batch. If you find that this glue is not working for you that is probably what happened.)

Enjoy, hope this works as well for you as it has for me.
 
G'day all,

I'd like to share my labeling technique, which cost under $5 a batch, is water resistant (so you can store your beers with the rest in an ice bath) and quite simple.

I've been brewing about a year or so now and have got to the point where I don't really buy beer any more. The problem is when a weekend comes around and a mate has a party or similar. (No matter how nice the beer is, people still look at you wierd when you pull a no label beer out of the esky.)
So i jumped on homebrewtalk.com and found the laserprinter and milk solution, which works a treat if you keep your beers in the fridge but lasts all of 2 seconds in an ice bath and those blue freezer blocks just couldn't keep the esky cool for long. So, back on the net looking for a label that could survive a bath. Everything I found was either very expensive or too perminate (i never brew the same thing twice and like to have all the details on the label, brew date, bottle date, %, standard drinks)
I liked what i was getting with the laserprinter and the paper seemed to stand up ok in water so the problem was the milk/glue. I started experimenting with different glues (glue stick, pva, rubber glues, basically anything i could find) doing little test labels on bottles full of water seeing how they stood up to sweating, 6hrs in ice water, and how easily they were removed for cleaning. And still couldn't find anything i was happy with.
So it was back on the net, this time reserching glues. After a couple nights of serching i'd found plenty of cold resistant glues but only in industrial quantities. After a bit more reaseach i ended up making my own glues to test and finaly found something that i consider perfect.

The great thing is all the ingredients are either pretty comman of useful for the home brewer. (for other uses do a seach for "gelatin finings" for gelatin, and "yeast banking" for glycerine)

Here it is:

Basic Waterproof Glue

* 6 tbsp water
* 2 packets unflavored gelatin (1/2 oz.)
* 2 tbsp white vinegar
* 2 tsp glycerine

Bring water to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in gelatin until it is dissolved. Add vinegar and glycerin and stir well. Let the mixture cool slightly and pour into a jar and seal tightly. To Use: This glue is best applied while warm. Apply to surfaces using a brush. Glue will gel after a few days. To re-use, warm by placing the jar in a pan of hot water. Good for binding leather to leather, fabrics to cardboard, paper to paper.


This glue is very liquid when hot/warm and is easily applied with a paint brush (just paint the whole back side of the label and stick it on, wipe any exsess off with a bit of paper towel) make sure to use a laserprinter not an inkjet or the ink will run, if you don't have one just print off a good copy and get it photo copied. Stick with square/rectangular labels and buy/borrow an a4 rotarry trimmer (beats using scissors)
It takes a couple days for the glue to fully gel, but once it has these labels hold very well in an esky of ice water for several hours, any longer than that the labels become very easy to pull or rub off but they're still not going anywhere by them self and will be fine again, once dry.
To remove, simply get your tap running as hot as it can, fill up the sink and give the bottle a soak/dunk. Depending on how hot your water gets they will need anywhere from 10sec (for boiling water) to mabey 2 mins (for warm water). and there is little to no residue left on the bottle.

I mixed up a half batch of this and have used it for three batches so far and still have at least half of it in the fridge.

(note: As an Aussie, i don't use oz. there is a chance that with all the converting and halfing that i ended up used the full 1/2oz. of galatin for my one half batch. If you find that this glue is not working for you that is probably what happened.)

Enjoy, hope this works as well for you as it has for me.

Thanks for posting! I'll give this a try this weekend.
 
I tried this out on about a dozen bottles this past weekend, and it worked terrifically. I'll test it out on those bottles this week, and if they hold up I'll scale the recipe up for a big bottling run.


Thanks for posting.
 
Keep us updated. I'm interested in the results.

Also, I've noticed some of my labels stored in the fridge tend to fade a bit over time. Is this as a result of the moisture/ink or the glue? Just curious if either of you have an insights.
 
I tried this out on about a dozen bottles this past weekend, and it worked terrifically. I'll test it out on those bottles this week, and if they hold up I'll scale the recipe up for a big bottling run.


Thanks for posting.

I would suggest a minimum of 72hrs drying time. I try and label my beers around bottling day so they end up having a month or so drying time before they get anywhere near an esky.
a second thought is that you could test one a day and see if the hold improves from day 1 to day 6. I did my initial testing by chilling a jug of water in the fridge adding a bottle and putting the whole thing back in the fridge to keep the water cool (about 4C/39F) and checking every 2hrs or so till 8hrs and then again at 24hrs.

Keep us updated. I'm interested in the results.

Also, I've noticed some of my labels stored in the fridge tend to fade a bit over time. Is this as a result of the moisture/ink or the glue? Just curious if either of you have an insights.

i've never experiance any fading, then again my labels are a pretty basic solid black with amber writing, printed on my uni color laserprinter, on standard copy paper.
are you using laser or inkjet? standard paper does soften with moister after a while the inked paper may just be rubbing off.
I'd suggest printing full color labels on laser (the ink provides a desent moister barrier) and making sure the edges of the label are well coated in glue to slow down water soaking in where you cut the paper.
 
are you using laser or inkjet? standard paper does soften with moister after a while the inked paper may just be rubbing off.

Laser color printer on standard paper.

I'd suggest printing full color labels on laser (the ink provides a desent moister barrier) and making sure the edges of the label are well coated in glue to slow down water soaking in where you cut the paper.

I may have to try coating the sides in glue to see how that works. Does the glue leave behind a noticeable residue on the bottle?
 
Awesome, thanks for sharing. I've been wanting to label some brews for a while now, but have been hesitant to use labels or milk. This seems like a great technique.
 
if you don't heat the bottles up after they have cured, can this be considered a "permanent" label.. i wanted to put some sort of logo on each of my bottles just so i know at the end of a gathering i know which ones are mine.. i'll still mark the caps for style though..

just curious how this will hold up for sanitizing soakings and just over time
 
if you don't heat the bottles up after they have cured, can this be considered a "permanent" label.. i wanted to put some sort of logo on each of my bottles just so i know at the end of a gathering i know which ones are mine.. i'll still mark the caps for style though..

just curious how this will hold up for sanitizing soakings and just over time

this is basically the opposite of what you're looking for. The idea behind these labels is that they're very easy to remove under any conditions, but serving. the glue is water soluble at anything above a couple degrees C and the paper isn't water proof, so even if you sanitize in a water cold enough that the glue doesn't dissolve the paper will go very soft and tear or rub off within a couple hrs.
if you want something you can use brew after brew i would suggest looking at what people have to say about mailing labels, or if you're really keen diy glass etching, or glass paint.
 
Hey so for those who have used this recipe I noticed there might be a question on how much gelatin was used... What worked?
 
Thanks for the recipe! This worked excellently for a party the other night. It was a little tough finding the glycerin. The craft store was where I finally found it. The smallest amount I could find was 32 oz. (6 tbsp in 1 oz., so I've got some inventory now...)

Anyhow, I made the glue up and used it on roughly 2 dozen bottles. I had laser color printed some labels I made on labeley.com. I was a little worried the glue would stick to the 12 pack case I put them back into, but no problems!

I put them all into a cooler (is that an Esky?) and packed with ice. Labels stayed on all night! I put my empties back into the cooler, and the ice melted. A couple days later those bottles still had the labels on them, after *soaking* in room temp water.

I fill up the sink with hot water, and let them soak for a minute or two, and they came right off. A quick wipe off, and they were as good as new.

PERFECT GLUE! Thanks!

--Jimbot
 
Awesome glue!! I print my labels on a color laser printer on regular plain old paper and use this glue to slap em on the bottles.
Glycerin is usually found in the skin care section of your local pharmacy. I picked up a 4oz bottle at CVS for like 3 bucks.

This recipe should be a sticky so nobody ever has to use milk as glue again.
 
Do you tihnk if you were to paint the outside of the label as well it would make it last even longer in water?
 
Do you tihnk if you were to paint the outside of the label as well it would make it last even longer in water?

I have used a clear spray paint or hair spray on some labels. Didn't really notice any difference, the printed paper seems to be pretty water resistant by its self as long as there aren't any blank spots.
 
Thank you for the recipe. I used it to label two batches of beer yesterday and it worked great, leaving the glue in the saucepan and occasionally warming it up a little to keep liquid enough. Seems to have cured well over night.
 
I labeled a batch of beer yesterday and used this recipe, so far it worked great, thanks for the recipe.

Wanted to share my experience and answer the questions I had after first finding this thread, these are the less important questions

How much gelatin does the recipe call for

I confirmed the amount of gelatin to use, because i thought it was still a little vague in the thread. I found this recipe online under the title Homemade Leather Glue:

Gather the following ingredients to make leather glue: 1 packet (1/4 ounce) of unflavored gelatin, 3 tablespoons of boiling water, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, 1 teaspoon glycerine (ask for glycerine at any pharmacy or craft store).

The original recipe is this recipe doubled and is correct, but just so its clear, it calls for two 1/4 ounce packets of unflavored gelatin, for a total of a half ounce.

What is using it like

When finished, it was like thin rubber cement and easy to brush on. As it cooled, it was still easy to brush on but went on thicker (think more globby), meaning there was more to wipe off the sides after applying the label. Still worked but not as efficient. As for speed, its not as fast as dunking in milk and throwing on, but pretty quick, but a brush is essential.

Another piece of experience, make sure to get the water boiling and mix the gelatin in really well, I heated my water in the microwave and it wasn't quite boiling when I mixed the gelatin in and I got some lumps. I assumed they would dissolve out; they didn't. Although it wasn't a problem, just occasionally I brushed a lump on to the label then had to brush it off.

How far did the batch go

The batch was probably double what I needed for 55 bottles with 4.5x3 inch labels and small neck labels. I put it in an old jam jar, and sealed it up for later. I assume it will work the same when rewarmed, but haven't tried it.

How much will it cost

I already had glycerin from a yeast saving project (got it from CVS for about 5 dollars), had water and vinegar around the house, so all I had to buy was gelatin. 4 packets ran about 2 dollars (only available in boxes of 4 or 32) at Ralphs.

Breaking it down, cost of a batch is about $1.25, mostly for the gelatin, a little for glycerin, water and vinegar basically don't add any cost. If you buy everything in bulk, should be about $.50 a batch. So its cheap, but your out of pocket expense to get started should be around 10 bucks if you have nothing.

Does it leave residue on the bottle

I did this last night, just checked the bottles, as fas as I can tell, no. With milk, I get a residue on the bottles that made them look dirty. Not a big deal, but after all the work of removing old labels, printing new labels, and glueing them on straight, its annoying.

Overall, really happy with the results and don't plan on going back to milk
 
How far did the batch go

The batch was probably double what I needed for 55 bottles with 4.5x3 inch labels and small neck labels. I put it in an old jam jar, and sealed it up for later. I assume it will work the same when rewarmed, but haven't tried it.

sealing it up in a jar and keeping it in the fridge works fine, it sets to a jelly when cold just put it in the microwave for a couple seconds or fill a bowl with boiling water a set the jar in the bowl (great way to stop it going gluggy while your working as well).

as for how long it will last. I've just finished my original batch of glue after something like a year and a half since originally mixing it and re-heating and re-cooling it over a dozen times. Over this time I didn't notice any change in the glue at all, (holding ability, consistency, smell, etc)
 
I too made this glue but I've been waiting to reply until I could fully test it out. What everyone said earlier is correct. I made one batch and I have bottled over 200 with labels. I still have about 1/3 left over. I'm finding it more difficult to keep it warm with the smaller amount of glue. I plan to get one of those warming plates for that scented wax to keep the glue warm while I work with it.

Last night I conducted my final test and delabeled some bottles. I placed a bottle in ice water and let it sit for 15 minutes. I found the label was still intact but you could damage the label with a finger with moderate pressure. If bottles were banged together when wet they would be damaged. Perhapse if I used a tougher paper it would be harder to damage them. I used color copier paper.

When I cleaned the labels off I still made up a batch of oxyclean as usual because I wanted to scrub the insides of the bottles as it had been a while. I filled my bathtub with the hottest water I could and put one scoop of oxyclean in there. I then put all the bottles in the water. By the time they were all in I could pick them up and scrape the labels off with a finger. Super easy! Some even slid off without tearing. Some took a second bath because a portion I label wasn't wet or warm enough to release.

It isn't the perfect glue. I say that because I don't think commercial breweries would be happy with its performance but this is the best glue for the home brew community! I will enjoy making labels for every batch now. I hope we can convince some of the competitions to let us submit labeled beer for review while still being able to enter the beer inside for competition.
 
I don't think the labeled beer is going to fly, but most fairs have label competitions.
 
I found a great way to keep this glue warm while working with it. I got one of those warming plates for scented wax and I place the glue on it. It keeps it at the perfect temperature!
 
I'm going to try this out on a batch of my nephew's wedding beer! Thanks for the tip. This comment is really just to bookmark it in the "my replies"
 
I used this on a wedding beer a couple years ago and never said thanks... so THANKS! This works great, went on easy, stayed on and came off in hot water. Epic.
 
Thanks for posting this!

For the curing time after the label is applied what temperature should the bottles be at? Will the solution cure at room temp or should they always be in the fridge?
 
Room temperature is fine.
I naturally carb my beer. Labels go on then they sit around at room temp for weeks/months/years in some cases.
The glue has to get pretty hot before it starts to soften (a lot hotter than I’d be comfortable storing by beer at) and even then it should re-set once it cools down again.
 
Room temperature is fine.
I naturally carb my beer. Labels go on then they sit around at room temp for weeks/months/years in some cases.
The glue has to get pretty hot before it starts to soften (a lot hotter than I’d be comfortable storing by beer at) and even then it should re-set once it cools down again.

Thanks!
 
Sweet!! Hanna try this soon! Where can I find the chemicals to make the glue locally?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Sweet!! Hanna try this soon! Where can I find the chemicals to make the glue locally?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

By chemicals i assume you mean the glycerine.
Don't know where you are, but in Austraila you can get glycerine in the supermarket and chemist. (think it's used as a skin care product, it's just one of those things that has always been in the cupboard)
also known as "Glycerol, glycerine, glycerin"

looking at older post, people have found it at craft stores, somebody else mentions a "CVS" (don't know what that is assume it's a store in the U.S.)

Everything else is in the supermarket or quite possibly already in your pantry
 
Wanted to say I made this glue up and labelled a few cases of beer last night. Seems to have worked really well. I'm pretty thrilled that I've gone from commercially printed labels that come out at around $1.25 each (Evermine vinyl pre-glued - pricey but really nice) to doing it all myself and getting a great result.

Some details and comments...

Art: I am using Gimp to do the label art, printing six on a sheet using a color laser printer on regular paper. I had never used Gimp before, so I needed to do some tutorials and lean on the help system pretty heavily, and I'm sure I didn't do everything the "right" way, but it worked out pretty well, and I'm very happy with the result.

Cost: The color printed laser sheets cost me 30 cent each, and I lay out the label art in Word so they're 6 to a sheet. So that's 5 cents a label. The ingredients for a batch of this glue is about $5.00. Because it goes a long way, I would say cost-per-bottle is eventually extremely small, call it 2 cents. At an all-in cost of 7 cents a bottle, I'm psyched.

Cutting: Trimming those labels to size is a PITA, and I used a flatbed paper cutter board. Next time I arrange the pages, I'm going to (1) overprint the labels to make it easier to avoid white edges and (2) print cut marks (DOH!) to make it easier to sight the cut lines. I'll also arrange the labels to save the number of cuts.

Attaching the labels: Putting these labels on is certainly more messy than using pre-glued label stock, but honestly, once I got the hang of it, it was fine. I keep a moist rag on my knee to wipe my hands on.

Glue consistency: Yes, the glue gets gummy as it warms up. I found it necessary to reheat it, or leave the bottle in a pan of hot water while I was working. This worked fine, but I like the idea of the warmer plate that twofieros is using. Dude - got a link to that product?

I also saw how gummy the glue was when I first made it and added two more tbsp of water. Don't know if I've ruined it or not but it seems to have worked just fine. I did this to make it more workable, but obviously I've stretch the batch a bit too.

Hope this is helpful and thanks again for posting OPM!
 
Last edited:
if you don't heat the bottles up after they have cured, can this be considered a "permanent" label.. i wanted to put some sort of logo on each of my bottles just so i know at the end of a gathering i know which ones are mine.. i'll still mark the caps for style though..

just curious how this will hold up for sanitizing soakings and just over time

Nail polish dabs on the bottom of the bottles :)
 
Back
Top