BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion

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The Pol

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WARNING, WARNING!!!!!!
DANGER, DANGER!!!!!
Electricity KILLS! I am not an electrician, nor do I claim to have any working knowlege of electricity and its properties!!!! Build this panel at your own risk!!!

This thread will document the conversion of my existing HERMS to ALL electric complete with PID, SSR, control panel etc.
I have already installed a new circuit in my garage using a DP 30A GFCI, #10 AWG wire to a (4) prong outlet, this will supply sufficient power to my MASH and to my BOIL halves of my control panel. It will require 13A during mashing, it will require 23A during the boil.

Here is a complete parts list. The remainder of this thread will document the entire build in separate phases. (this may be revised as the build requires)

HERMSLIST-1.jpg


PHASE #1. I will be converting my keggle to electric. Stay tuned for the pics, commentary and instructions to come.

DRILL A 1.25" HOLE THROUGH THE SIDE OF THE KEG AT THE 2.5 GALLON POSITION ON THE KEG

To build the element you will need:
5500W RIPP element
JB Stik
JB Weld
1" NON conductive PVC slip coupling
6' 10/3 dryer cord
(2) wire end terminals
Wire cutters
Philips screw driver

#1. Separate the three wires so that they are not attched approximately 2" from the terminal ends. (this will allow you to separate the ground wire and attach it to the keg if you place your thermowell in the same position that I placed mine)
#2. Cut approx. 1.5" from the end of the two HOT wires, yes this will remove the factory terminals.(this will allow the ground wire to reach the side of the keg with the element installed)
#3. Attach (2) new terminal ends to the two HOT wires on the cord.
#4. Slide the PVC coupler over the end of the cord
#5. Attach the two HOT wires to the element. Be sure to leave GROUND wire OUTSIDE of the coupler, this will attach to the keg.
#6. Knead a small ammount of JB Stik and roll it into a thin rope. Wrap the epoxy putty around the base of the element, where the PVC coupler will be seated. Press PVC coupling into place. Let set for 20 minutes.
#7. Mix two full tubes of JB Weld epoxy well and pour it into the void where the electrical connections lie. This will fill the void sufficiently to pot the connections and wires.
#8 Hang the element from the cord for 24 hours to allow proper curing of the epoxy.


DSCN0981.jpg


DSCN0982.jpg



PHASE #2. I will be building a control panel to run all of the components of this system, pump, BK boiler and HLT heater and mixer. PANEL NEARLY COMPLETE, PICS AND INSTRUCTIONS WILL BE POSTED BY JANUARY 1ST!!
 
Sometime I need to get up to Indy and see what this HERMS thing is all about. I'm an apartment brewer so it would be hard to have that set up but I'm interested. :mug:
 
I use a boat oar for a mash paddle and a hot tub for a boil kettle!

Seriously, I've got AG brewing in an apartment down to a frigin' science. It's not that hard if you can put up with rubbermaid storage boxes in your kitchen with carboys and fans! :D
 
I plan to make this as detailed and complete as possible. I am trying to keep this build much more organized than my previous ones! My HERMS design is already being copied by several HBT'ers and I would like for this thread to be comprehensive enough to guide them and others through such a conversion. Stay tuned!
 
Sometime I need to get up to Indy and see what this HERMS thing is all about. I'm an apartment brewer so it would be hard to have that set up but I'm interested. :mug:

I will be brewing again AS SOON as this conversion is complete. Id be glad to have another HBT member up here for a brew session.
 
Great, I will have my Orange Cascade APA on tap at that point as well as my Hause Ale... or, maybe the Fire In The Hole... maybe.
 
I have already installed a new circuit in my garage using a DP 30A GFCI, #10 AWG wire to a (4) prong outlet, this will supply sufficient power to my MASH and to my BOIL halves of my control panel.
Photos:
Are you planning on using a waterproof outlet/plug to connect to the GFCI outlet? I also saw some that you twist so that you cannot accidentally disconnect them.
 
The outlet on the wall in the garage is a standard 50A 4 prong RANGE outlet, no twist lock. I am really not concerned with it coming unplugged during a brew session. At this point I do not intend to use any twist lock outlets on my build... but you may decide to do so on yours.

EDIT: The large 50A and 30A plugs and outlets on my rig fit so tightly that a twist lock would be unnecessary on this build.
 
I think hes going to have a parts list once its all said and done, but I think he said he was going for a twist outlet.
 
During each phase of the build there will be a parts list, list of tools required, any helpful tips, photos, and a running cost for the entire project.
 
During each phase of the build there will be a parts list, list of tools required, any helpful tips, photos, and a running cost for the entire project.
Thank you in advance. Another suggestion would be to include a little text on why you went a certain direction (like a design goal or "I did it this way because..."). Having followed the other thread, it is evident that you have thoroughly thought through (wow, enough "ought" words! :cross:) your design and every decision. And if you are ever in the Denver/Boulder area, beers are on me!
 
I am in Denver on occassion, we stay at the Red Lion downtown... I will keep that in mind, it is nice to get a good brew once in a while when out on a trip!

I will be doing my best to keep this comprehensive, to answer as many possible questions, before they get asked... I will also try to give some insight as to why I chose to do what I chose to do, good idea, I will do that.
 
NO, update today, sorry fellas... my ULWD RIPP 5500W element is not here. Everything else is ready to go.
 
I'd be happy to pull out my code book to discus proper electrical safety, wire size issues, code specs anytime. I don't want OSHA shutting you down!:p
 
Ha ha, start your own thread for that! ;)

I DID update the OP with some parts, costs, suppliers and tools required for the first phase. When the RIPP gets here, I will roll that out.
 
I've following the other electric heating threads and wanting to do the same. Thanks for taking the plunge and writing it up.
 
My pleasure... keep in mind that if I survive, it does not mean that YOU will. ONE reason I have a MultiMeter now.

I WILL CONTINUE TO UPDATE THE OP WITH PROGRESS, PARTS, PICS, PRICES, SUPPLIERS!
 
HAH! Yes, I should have added that I do not intend to use your personal narrative as a set of instructions. Should I subsequently impersonate a lightning rod it is totally unrelated.
 
My pleasure... keep in mind that if I survive, it does not mean that YOU will. ONE reason I have a MultiMeter now.

I WILL CONTINUE TO UPDATE THE OP WITH PROGRESS, PARTS, PICS, PRICES, SUPPLIERS!

That was a multi meter??? Does it say Fisher Price on the back?? :p
 
VDC, VAC and resistance meter. To test my connections and areas where I DO NOT want there to be voltage. I know I have 243VAC at my outlet that will feed my control panel now.
 
That was a multi meter??? Does it say Fisher Price on the back?? :p
My late father used to use the term "Mickey Mouse" for describing the quality of certain electrical items :ban:. As he had to wire elevators, he was a bit fussy. :D
Oh, and for those of you trying to find the elusive SS straight threaded element nut, I was in sentry hardware today, and dont you know that, for 7 bucks, they sell an "element adapter kit" that has a nut, connected to a boltable flange, for adapting elements to...who knows what they intended, but it will work for what we need, and the flange can be easily removed with a grinder or a dremmel. 7 bucks..
To the Pol,
my a419 arrived today. Along with a pound of williamette. Not bad for a day at the post office. Im almost ready to start the hlt/herm build......I gave up trying to figure a safe way of using the 2000w 120v element, so I just settled with the 1500. I believe it will do just dandy.
Season Greetings to all!
 
VDC, VAC and resistance meter. To test my connections and areas where I DO NOT want there to be voltage. I know I have 243VAC at my outlet that will feed my control panel now.

I'm just messing with ya Pol... ya gotta give a guy who flys multi million dollar aircraft crap now and then. Plus i'm jealous of all the cool projects you do.
 
I am flattered... I am!

I really enjoy brewing and beer, but I also really enjoy designing and building affordable and useful projects to create it! I do my best to do it safely and thoughtfully... and I do gain most of my knowledge from this board alone.

The multi-million dollar aircraft thing... yeah, I dont think about that much. I think I am more proud of the uniform and wings than I am of the plane itself!
 
Medo...

My senior, junior apprentice! The 1500V 120V element will heat the HLT just fine. It will take 90 minutes to get the HLT up to temp prior to brewing, after that performance is not an issue.

I generally power up my HLT while I am eating breakfast... by the time I am done drinking my coffee and scratching myself, it is time to brew!
 
BTW... I was able to score (3) 120v 20A GFCI outlets to go on my control panel at Menards for $12.99 today!
 
BTW... I was able to score (3) 120v 20A GFCI outlets to go on my control panel at Menards for $12.99 today!

So, you are doing GFCI on the brew rig side? I used a 50A GFCI breaker in my main box. This is the circuit that goes to the range outlet (6/3 wire). You don't want to have multiple layers of GFCI - it supposedly doesn't work right. So all of the electrical stuff on my rig is "normal" (not GFCI) but is protected in the main box. I have tested it and it does work (close neutral and ground is easy way).

Or does your rig run off of multiple circuits from main box? I was going to do that but the one big 50A circuit and plug was actually easier and a little cheaper. Plus, I use the 50A break as my master on/off switch.
 
You are exactly right... multiple GFCI's will not work out. I know this too... why did I buy them? I am certain that I would have realized that prior to wiring them in!

I am running ONE circuit from my panel in my garage. It is a DP 30A breaker. The control panel will have (2) sides... MASH 15A MAX and BOIL 23A MAX. So I can easily run with a 30A breaker and #10 wire.

I will have 240VAC at 30A available in my control panel.
 
Just ordered this today...

PID, SSR, Heatsink, K thermocouple

http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=30
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=77

I actually ordered the WRONG PID... I ordered the identical one that had a RELAY only output, not SSR. The dude called me THREE MINUTES after I placed my order to verify it, because he saw I was ordering an SSR as well... DAMN! AWESOME PLACE!
 
Unfortunately I am leaving tomorrow for 4 days... then I am home for (2)... then I leave again for 4 more. Not much time here in Dec. to start piecing things together, but I will be for certain in January. I am ordering the distribution block this week as well. I can pick up my 12 x 12 x 6 junction box for the controls at Lowes down the street. Then all I have to do is piece it together with a parts/supplier/cost brreakdown and provide plenty of pics.

I am excited, I cannot wait to brew on this thing in Feb!
 
Updated the OP with a COMPLETE parts list, prices, vendors... all parts are here or on order now, I will begin the build when the element arrives!
 
$417.00???? / 80 = MORE FLYING NOW! :p

There has to be a time after all the monthly expenses are paid and you say..... This flight just paid for my new controller ;)
 
I am flying 43 hours in the next two weeks... it is covered :D
 
Thanks a million for putting this together Pol! It really is appreciated. You've done a ton of research into this. My Blichmann pots just arrived yesterday so I'll be drilling into them soon to convert to electric and will be following these discussions closely.

Kal
 
No problem... I am trying, putting more time into research and documentation than I am BUILDING it. :D
 
$417.00???? / 80 = MORE FLYING NOW! :p

There has to be a time after all the monthly expenses are paid and you say..... This flight just paid for my new controller ;)


What do you mean $417? I calculated his parts cost up from the OP as $43.21.
 
Re-read the OP... that was the cost for the FIRST PHASE. That is from the BK only... the control panel gets a little pricey! FULL parts list is up now!
 
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