Output modes are different, one sends a 12 v signal to an SSR and the other has a built in SSR
12V DC for external SSR
or
Relay contact: 3A at 240 VAC, SSR: 8VDC, 40 mA.
The 2352 has an auto tune function for PID controls opposed to the 2362's manual configuration.
Hmm, from the web page for the 2362:
Auto-tune function can find the best PID parameter automatically.
Is the web page incorrect on this?
Ok so if I want to mostly control my boil, what do I need minimum to keep my 5500W element from boiling the bejeebus out of my wort? 2352 + 25A or larger SSR + heatsink? Since I will simply heat to temp watching my pot thermometer for sparging and won't really use the PID to control temps I won't "really" need a thermocouple correct?
They wont turn on the element with out a temperature probe, part of the fail safe.
Since I don't really need it to monitor the temps or keep a certain temp since I'll just heat to target and turn off for sparging/mashing could I just use the much cheaper non liquid probe for that?
Sounds like you should just hook your element to a switch. Why buy a PID, SSR, and thermocouple if you are just bringing it up to temp and turning it off?
I guess it does, I was looking for the parameter to set for it and couldn't find it. I dunno what the big difference is then.
The 2352 has one SSR output and one dry contact for an output (Not an SSR). It's control algorithms are different.
The 2352 has an auto tune function for PID controls opposed to the 2362's manual configuration. The 2352 also has a much shorter duty cycle setting than the 2362.
For HERMS, BK, and fridge controls the 2362 is fine when used in limit mode. For RIMS applications I would rather have the advanced PID equations used in the 2352. There are also other differences but those are the most significant.
Wrong. The 2352 has a more robust relay output than the 2362.
Well, I don't own a 2352, but according to Auber, the relay version is a different part number.
Oh, and the 2362 has limit mode with relay and SSR output, if one wanted to use it.
I'll be doing BIAB and will also use the element for the 60+ minute boil, and won't want it to run "full blast" as that will boil the everliving snot out of it (and some say caramelize the wort).
Ok, I didn't realize you were boiling with it too.
In that case, why not just hook it to a dimmer? You can't use dimmer and SSR, but a dimmer on one or both legs should still be way cheaper and work for what you want.
I had no idea they were that spendy.
Since you will be using the PID in manual mode, I'd probably go cheap ebay PID for $35-40 with thermocouple and then a $17 SSR with heatsink. You won't be using the logic built in to the unit when you are manally controling the duty cycle.
I had no idea they were that spendy.
Since you will be using the PID in manual mode, I'd probably go cheap ebay PID for $35-40 with thermocouple and then a $17 SSR with heatsink. You won't be using the logic built in to the unit when you are manally controling the duty cycle.
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