''No sparge'' noob quesiton

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dexter05

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Hi..

Guys, in the no sparge process, th secondary water should be in which temp? Tried to find it in some articles but could not fnd it... Thanks in advance
 
There is no "secondary water" in no sparge... You mash at mash temp and collect your runnings...
 
Do you mean the mash-out water? You can still do a mash-out in a no-sparge lauter, and if so then it depends on how much grains and water you have in your mash. The goal is to add an amount of hot water that will raise the mash to about 168-170.

But I get the feeling you might be confusing batch sparging with no sparging? If so, a calculator will help immensely. Such as this one: http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php
 
Thanks for answering, but I believe I wasn't clear in my question...
After mashing, I will throw inside the kettle some more water to complete the desired volume, right? I am confused about the temperature of the water I am gonna throw... Can it be natural, or must be the same as the mash-out phase, for example?
 
For BIAB, no sparge, you want to mash thin. Your kettle should be filled an inch or two short of the top leaving just enough head space to stir. Turn the burner back on and stir when it is time to mash out to get the temperature to 170. Many people skip the mash out and just pull the grains after the sachifricarion rest is done.

That's no sparge. if you want to add a dunk sparge that's different. Or you could pour sparge water through the grains if they are sitting above your kettle. See my very simple, yet functional, setup here:
http://woodlandbrew.blogspot.com/2012/09/biab.html
 
For BIAB, no sparge, you want to mash thin. Your kettle should be filled an inch or two short of the top leaving just enough head space to stir. Turn the burner back on and stir when it is time to mash out to get the temperature to 170. Many people skip the mash out and just pull the grains after the sachifricarion rest is done.

That's no sparge. if you want to add a dunk sparge that's different. Or you could pour sparge water through the grains if they are sitting above your kettle. See my very simple, yet functional, setup here:
http://woodlandbrew.blogspot.com/2012/09/biab.html

That's kind of vague. What if he has a 40 gallon pot and wants to do a 5 gallon batch?

The formula for a no sparge with no infusion mashout would be:

Desired preboil volume + (.07 x pounds of grain)

Example, if you want 6.5 gallons of preboil and you're mashing 10 pounds of grain it's 6.5 + (.07 x 10) = 7.2 gallons of water total.
 
Most people add the rest of the volume to the mash tun in some manner in order to rinse the sugars from the grain. Some people pour the water in at the same rate the wort flows out and that's Fly Sparging. Some drain the mash tun and then add the sparge water and that's Batch Sparging. Some just add the sparge water without first draining the mash tun and that's Batch Sparging too.

To do "No Sparge" brewing you would drain the mash tun and just use whatever wort you get. It makes for a very inefficient process, but some claim it makes the best beer.

If you add the remaining water to the mash tun before collecting the wort, then that's Batch Sparging and you just want to try and keep the temperature below 170, so I think most people add 168 water to make sure they don't go over. It's mostly a concern with Fly Sparging I believe, where the pH of the sparge could drop low enough to cause tannin extraction.

Those temps are obviously in Fahrenheit. I'm betting that you use Celsius where you live?
 
Some just add the sparge water without first draining the mash tun and that's Batch Sparging too.

...
If you add the remaining water to the mash tun before collecting the wort, then that's Batch Sparging

I have to disagree there. If you drain the tun one time and all that wort is the same gravity, it's no sparge. Batch sparging is not defined simply by punctuated infusions without draining. Those are just infusions.
 
I have to disagree there. If you drain the tun one time and all that wort is the same gravity, it's no sparge. Batch sparging is not defined simply by punctuated infusions without draining. Those are just infusions.

Yes, I agree technically. However, when I think of no sparge I think of not adding any additional water to the mash. Once you add water to help rinse the grains it seems like it would perform the same function as a sparge.

In Beersmith there is a check box for draining the tun before adding sparge water. They are both listed under batch sparge.

What would be the advantage of adding the additional water to the MLT before draining? Mash Out?
 
I look at it as getting to dial in your mash thickness to control pH drift, raising to mashout temps with the second infusion and yet still getting the improved wort quality (allegedly) of a no sparge. The second infusion is just diluting the sugar concentration in the entire mash.
 
Yeah, that makes sense. I've never done it that way, due to MLT space constraints.

Bobby, didn't you have a calculator for determining the size of tun needed for x amount of grain? I am considering a batch of RIS and need to know how much space I need. (or actually how big a batch I can do with my MLT.)

Considering doing a partigyle and making a standard stout with the second runnings.
 
When I do BIAB all grain, it's usually 11# of grains mashed in 3.5 gallons of water in my 5 gallon pot. As I'm mashing, I heat up an additional 3 gallons of water to 170 for a dunk sparge in my fermenting bucket for about 15 minutes. This will leave me with a pre boil volume of appx 6 gallons and efficiency around 70% almost every time.

It works well for me - and requires no extra equipment if you dont have a standard mashing vessel.
 
Beer Tools Pro is suggesting that a pound of crushed grain displaces about .1 gallons (which is also about how much liquid the grain holds on to).

If a recipe has 10 pounds of grain, figure it's going to add 1 full gallon of volume to the tun in addition to whatever water you add. If you mash 10lbs with 5 gallons of water, it will take up 6 gallons of space in the tun and when you drain it, you'll get about 4 gallons out.

When I partigyle, I like to strike with enough water so that my first runnings equal my big beer preboil volume.

Say 30lbs of grain:.. I know that will hold onto 3 gallons when draining so if I want 7 gallons preboil, I have to strike with ~10 gallons. That will take a total of 13 gallons of tun space.
 
Beer Tools Pro is suggesting that a pound of crushed grain displaces about .1 gallons (which is also about how much liquid the grain holds on to).

If a recipe has 10 pounds of grain, figure it's going to add 1 full gallon of volume to the tun in addition to whatever water you add. If you mash 10lbs with 5 gallons of water, it will take up 6 gallons of space in the tun and when you drain it, you'll get about 4 gallons out.

When I partigyle, I like to strike with enough water so that my first runnings equal my big beer preboil volume.

Say 30lbs of grain:.. I know that will hold onto 3 gallons when draining so if I want 7 gallons preboil, I have to strike with ~10 gallons. That will take a total of 13 gallons of tun space.

That's just the information I needed. I think I'll have to do a half batch for that big beer since my mash tun is only 10 gallons. Not sure how much wort I'll get for the second runnings, but I can always add a bit of extract if necessary, or do a second mash BIAB style to up the gravity.
 

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