RIMS heat chamber

Ok, I found out what 2in copper pipe will cost me if I buy it at Lowes. Not cheap. If I can't get some on craigslist, I may just use water supply pipe. I was just wondering which would be better? Copper (pretty shinny) or pipe?

I wouldn't use galvanized or black iron pipe. Copper is gonna be less expensive that stainless steel pipe. Sawdustguy has a great thread, "Rims for dummies" that has an excellent source for stainless if you decide to go that way.

Ed

Islandboy85 said:

Ok, I found out what 2in copper pipe will cost me if I buy it at Lowes. Not cheap. If I can't get some on craigslist, I may just use water supply pipe. I was just wondering which would be better? Copper (pretty shinny) or pipe?

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A 2" x 10" 304 SS pipe nipple from Murray Equipment is $23.34 and a 8" x 10" 304 SS pipe nipple is $18.18. They have the other fittings in 304 SS at pretty good prices also. They ship fast and are very good to deal with.

The problem with copper (at lowes) is it's ten feet long, and I think I will need roughly two feet. I'm trying to stick to local sources so that I don't have shipping, but I will definately keep Murray Equipment in mind. Thanks. I was thinking the galvanized pipe was a bad idea since the inside is so rough anyway - hard to clean.

Islandboy85 said:

The problem with copper (at lowes) is it's ten feet long, and I think I will need roughly two feet. I'm trying to stick to local sources so that I don't have shipping, but I will definately keep Murray Equipment in mind. Thanks. I was thinking the galvanized pipe was a bad idea since the inside is so rough anyway - hard to clean.

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Worse than hard to clean... It's not safe.

How's that if it's used for water supply? I'm not denying you're right, but that's puzzling considering it's in my apartment.

The zinc from galvanized pipe would be an issue too.

If you have an Ace and they have it, you can buy it by the foot. I use 1.5" for mine and it worked out. I had to tweak the element some so it wasn't touching the walls. Between the T, threaded reducer, and 1.5 to .5 reducer I only used 1 foot of pipe.

Islandboy85 said:

The problem with copper (at lowes) is it's ten feet long, and I think I will need roughly two feet. I'm trying to stick to local sources so that I don't have shipping, but I will definately keep Murray Equipment in mind. Thanks. I was thinking the galvanized pipe was a bad idea since the inside is so rough anyway - hard to clean.

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It may be less expensive to pay the $10 to $12 shipping than getting it locally. I know it was that way for me.

Here is the thread with part #s when I built mine.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/polishin-my-pipe-2-hrs-58428/

I was thinking of trying to ask on craigslist. Maybe a contractor will have some leftovers. Then I'll also check the scrap yard, but you're probably right. How big of an element did you use? I was thinking of using a 3500 watt low density for the mash tun.

Islandboy85 said:

I was thinking of trying to ask on craigslist. Maybe a contractor will have some leftovers. Then I'll also check the scrap yard, but you're probably right. How big of an element did you use? I was thinking of using a 3500 watt low density for the mash tun.

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I don't think you don't need that big of an element for a rims heater.
Remember, you'll be heating the water in the HLT. The RIMs is really just to maintain the temp. I used a 1500 watt. I wanted to make sure I could run it on a 15 amp outlet.

Are you running it on 110? I am still racking my mind 110 or 220. The only place that I have 220 is behind my apartment store, and all the wall outlets are only 15 amps 110, so i'm still trying to figure that out.

Islandboy85 said:

Are you running it on 110? I am still racking my mind 110 or 220. The only place that I have 220 is behind my apartment store, and all the wall outlets are only 15 amps 110, so i'm still trying to figure that out.

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Me?

I am currently running it on 110 which works out to be 1200W at 10Amps. Let me put it this way, it is just enough. The MLT needs to be insulated and have a lid. To get up to mashing temps it takes half hour to an hour. The recirc rate must be VERY slow too, otherwise the heat applied by the HEX is lost during the return to the MLT, and a spray type sparge arm makes heat loss much worse. If I were to do it again, I would make the return sit on top of the grist.

During Mash out an infusion is required to step the temps up fast enough.

I am seriously considering putting a hi/lo switch on it to switch between 120 and 240v...

You said apartment Store? did you mean Stove? If you have a 4 wire receptacle on it and it is 30Amps plus, that would be the way to go...

But, mashing can be done one 110 if you are patient.

My tun will be insulated with a lid. I may insulate the hose too. I don't really like the idea of rotating sparge arms either. And YES, STOVE not store...my brains shot. I haven't looked at the receptacle, but it's got two circuit breakers in the panel rated at 40 amps, so that is why I was thinking about doing that. Maybe make a four foot splitter so the stove can stay plugged in, and have access for the brewery.

Mine is 110V 1500 watts. I haven't used it yet, just finished the build. It is also controlled with a PID to avoid scortching.
Be careful if you use the range plug, it is not likey on a GFCI.
You know... that whole water, electric, death thing.
Ed

I definitely was going to use a GFCI circuit breaker on my control panel. I may let it serve as the Master Power On switch too. I was looking at some of the Auber controls. I think it would be cool to use a data logger I have too for record keeping of each brew just in case something goes wrong so I can go back and see what happened. Its a DI-194.

I would advise you had some way to turn the element off nearby.
Example:
You flip the breaker, realize HEX is dry and have to run back and turn it off hoping the element hasn't burned up.
There are many other reasons too.

If you wanted gfci protection, I would use one with it built into the cord. Don't have to worry about catching hell for modifying the Apt's breaker panel.

I will. I want a master power switch, and then each element will have a switch as well. I am going to put a fuse on each component as well - SSR, PID, heating element, pump, etc.

IMHO - you are much better off spending the extra money and getting threaded pipes. I have had an element burn up and it was in a copper pipe all soldered together. Guess what happened to that whole unit? Useless. I switched over to threaded pipe and will never look back.

I agree totally with jvd x but if you feel that copper is the way to go I would suggest that you get out the yellow pages and start calling plumbing contractors. The are likely to have bulk amounts on hand and in these hard times may appreciate some business. I needed 3 feet of 3 inch about a year ago and a local plumber was happy to provide it for me. His price was much higher per foot than the big chain hardware stores but I saved because I didn't have to buy a ten foot stick.