Hydrometer reading while sparging

It is agreed that sparging should not continue once OG reached 1.008 (or required volume has been reached). Trouble is the temperature at that point affects the reading by 10 points or so. Best would be to cool the sample but there is no time to wait for it to cool. In that case do I sparge untill the hydrometer reads 1.000 ?
- allowing for temp adjustment gravity would be +-1.008 ?

That is what I do.

David

Palmer has a table for temp adjustment and specific gravity. check it out. it comes in handy.

How to Brew - By John Palmer - Appendix A - Using Hydrometers

Ahhh man! This explains some of my efficiency issues... thanks!

I use a refractometer. It is so much easier when the wort is hot.

-a.

Yeah, a refractometer is almost essential for AG brewing, and one of my favorite purchases for the brewery. You can find them pretty cheap on e-bay.

Whiskey said:

Yeah, a refractometer is almost essential for AG brewing, and one of my favorite purchases for the brewery. You can find them pretty cheap on e-bay.

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Just found one for $30 shipping included! Glad u mentioned e-bay. I never think to look there....

MaynardX said:

Just found one for $30 shipping included! Glad u mentioned e-bay. I never think to look there....

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Great find! You will not regret it. You can use glass eye droppers or pippettes to pull the wort for the sample. Also make sure you do the calibration exactly how it is described. Good luck!

Whiskey said:

Great find! You will not regret it. You can use glass eye droppers or pippettes to pull the wort for the sample. Also make sure you do the calibration exactly how it is described. Good luck!

Click to expand...

+1 on the Refractometer, I just got one on ebay for 30, I can't wait to use it this weekend, using a hydrometer to monitor my sparge was getting too frustrating. I anticipating I will wish i bought one five years ago after this weekend.

besides monitoring the sparge, what other tasks does a refractometer work better than a hydrometer ?

I've yet to bother taking a reading of my sparge runnings. Its my understanding that fly spargers might want to, but batch spargers shouldn't have to worry much about it.

regardless of whether that statement is accurate, I've had no bad beers by skipping this reading.

unholymess said:

besides monitoring the sparge, what other tasks does a refractometer work better than a hydrometer ?

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Taking the OG. You only need a drop instead of the relatively large sample needed by the hydrometer, you don't need to apply temperature calibration, and it's much easier to read if you have poor eyesight.
It also saves you breaking hydrometers. (I used to get through one every couple months before I got the refractometer, but haven't broken one since.)
As you don't need an hydrometer prior to fermentation, you can get a finishing hydrometer with nice big, easy to read graduations.
The refractometer doesn't work so well after fermentation has started.

-a.

malkore said:

I've yet to bother taking a reading of my sparge runnings. Its my understanding that fly spargers might want to, but batch spargers shouldn't have to worry much about it.

regardless of whether that statement is accurate, I've had no bad beers by skipping this reading.

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+1, and if you use software there's no way to over sparge. Although I always take a preboil gravity and make any needed adjustments.

ajf said:

The refractometer doesn't work so well after fermentation has started.

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But there are Equations and calculators on line that will correct your readings as long as you know your starting gravity.

I just plug the numbers into Beer Smith to adjust for temp difference. A Refractometer would be really cool but I just bought a stir plate so it will have to wait.

Bsquared said:

But there are Equations and calculators on line that will correct your readings as long as you know your starting gravity.

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Yes there are, but in my experience they don't work too well, especially with higher gravity worts.
I found that the calculators were fairly accurate with OG's up to about 1.050, but got progressively more inaccurate as the OG increased. I found (using the Promash calculator) that with an OG of about 1.075, the calculated FG could be 3 - 4 points off.

-a.