First IIPA

Hey all,

I put together a recipe from different things I've seen on here and other sights, but would like some feedback. It's my 4th brew ever and second non-kit recipe. Here's a link for the recipe: hopville . "OTO IPA" Imperial IPA Recipe

Few questions,

1. How/when is the corn sugar added?

2. My equipment can handle a solid 4g boil, are my hop additions about right to balance bitterness, flavor, and aroma?

3. Should I vary my hop varieties or stick with all centennial?

4. Since it's a bigger beer do I need to more yeast, or will one package of the 1056 work?

Thanks in advance for all the help, this sight is great.

First post so let me know if the link to the recipe isn't working.

1)Looks pretty good. I'd swap the sugar for a couple more pounds of Light DME.
2)You're fine.
3)Keep the Centennials. When I started brewing I went nuts with different hops and had trouble telling which hop contributed what flavor to the beer. After a few batches of single hop pale ale, I educated my palate and started to identify hops in commercial brews.
4)Make a 1L starter and your yeast should be fine.

irishod89 said:

Hey all,

I put together a recipe from different things I've seen on here and other sights, but would like some feedback. It's my 4th brew ever and second non-kit recipe. Here's a link for the recipe: hopville . "OTO IPA" Imperial IPA Recipe

Few questions,

1. How/when is the corn sugar added?

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I typically add it in the last 5 mintes of the boil.

irishod89 said:

2. My equipment can handle a solid 4g boil, are my hop additions about right to balance bitterness, flavor, and aroma?

Click to expand...

That's all in the eye of the beholder. If you think it looks right, then go with it.

irishod89 said:

3. Should I vary my hop varieties or stick with all centennial?

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Again, there's no right answer to this. If you really dig Centennial, then this hopbill looks good.

irishod89 said:

4. Since it's a bigger beer do I need to more yeast, or will one package of the 1056 work?

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At 1.078, one package should be sufficient.

For 5 gallons of a 1.078 beer, you need a pretty big starter, probably 3 liters to get you up to the truly desired pitching rate. You could also use 2 packs and smaller starter.

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

Sounds like a good beer. I like one hoppers and Centennial is a favorite. The corn sugar boosts the alcohol so I would leave it as is unless you want to change the beer style.

I went from dry yeast (crap) to liquid (pain) back to dry yeast Safale 05 (yeah simple) and one pack will work well without starters. Last batch dry pitched 1.080 beer fermented out nicely 5 days @ 64F. Very happy camper!

samc said:

The corn sugar boosts the alcohol so I would leave it as is unless you want to change the beer style.

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I think the corn sugar is good. Leave it in there. It is appropriate for the style. It not only boosts the ABV, but it makes sure that the beer finishes dry which is absolutely necessary for an IIPA, IMO.

Thanks for the advice so far. Quick follow up question. I've yet to make a yeast starter, my first two kits were dry yeast and last batch I used a "smack pack" type liquid yeast. Anyone else have opinions on which to use? Dry yeast is much cheaper, and easier, but is it at all inferior? The "smack pack" was really easy as well, but more expensive. Thanks again.

beerkrump said:

1)Looks pretty good. I'd swap the sugar for a couple more pounds of Light DME.

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+1

Sounds like a great IIPA.

irishod89 said:

Dry yeast is much cheaper, and easier, but is it at all inferior?

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Forgot to mention in my previous post that I have brewed a Ruination Clone several times and used WLP007 liquid and S04 dry yeast and the only difference was faster & easier ferment with the dry. I doubt there are many people who could discern the difference in the beer in a blind tasting, although I expect to hear some arguments from each side.


Beer Home Brewing Why use Fermentis Yeast

irishod89 said:

Thanks for the advice so far. Quick follow up question. I've yet to make a yeast starter, my first two kits were dry yeast and last batch I used a "smack pack" type liquid yeast. Anyone else have opinions on which to use? Dry yeast is much cheaper, and easier, but is it at all inferior? The "smack pack" was really easy as well, but more expensive. Thanks again.

Click to expand...

I use US-05 a lot. I think it is an excellent yeast for a IIPA and would not hesitate to use it myself in a IIPA. It is very, very similar to WLP001 and Wyeast 1056. Use the Mr. Malty site for amount to pitch and re-hydrate and you are golden.

I can tell a difference in the US-05 vs. 001 especially in the flavor/aroma right after fermentation. But, after a couple weeks cold and the yeast drops the difference is minimal, except that US-05 will usually ferment the same wort drier, which just fine in an IIPA IMO.

I've used 1056 and US-05 many times each and have just stuck with the dry. I couldn't tell a difference in any of the beers, so I go the faster and cheaper route. I use it for my Imperial RyePA and love it.

Thanks again for all the advice. Of course I have a few more questions before this one gets under way.

1. Should I do a late addition with 2 or 3lbs of the dry extract, or add all at the beginning?

2. I'm going with the S-05, and using the yeast pitching calculator it advises about 15g. Since the package is 11.5 should I use more than 1 package?

3. According to Palmer you should steep with less than 1 gallon of water per pound of grain. Since I'm steeping 3 pounds of grain, I was going to steep in 2.5 gallons and then bring my volume to 4g before adding extract and hops, does this sound about right?

Sorry for all the questions, but being only my 4th brew I just don't have enough experience. And I would love to get this one right, should be tasty!

1. I think the best approach is to aim to make the wort you boil them same as your anticipated OG. Then, at the end add the rest of the extract so that when you top up you are back at your anticipated OG.

2. If you re-hydrate the 1 pack, it should be OK. But really, you would like to use 15g.

3. Technically you want to partial mash the Munich. No big deal. Bring all the grains with about 2qts of water per pound to around 152. Turn off the heat and let it steep/mash for about 45 minutes to an hour. You can do a search for partial mash brewing for more details. Heat the rest of the water to about 170 or so and rinse the grains after you are done, this is like sparging.

EDIT: DeathBrewer has a great little thread that demonstrates partial mash brewing:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/

If you haven't already heard it, I'd listen to this Jamil Show podcast before you finalize your recipe. It will cover some of the things already mentioned here (use of sugar, proper yeast pitching rates, etc) and generally help you to learn what helps make a great IIPA.

The Brewing Network.com - The Jamil Show - Imperial IPA