Partial mash

I am thinking i want to go to AG from extract with steeped grains.

Should i first choose to do a partial mash? I am not sure why a person would only do a partial. Is it because they dont have a brew pot to hold 6.5 gallons at full boil?

That is something i would have to buy, along with my mash tun and lauter tun.

Assuming i can get all the things i would need to do a fully AG recipe, should i go to a partial first? Is a partial easier to learn how to do?

just curious, thanks

Reverend

A partial is exactly the same as a full AG with the exception of the quantity that is.

If you can and want to get all the equipment for AG go ahead and take the plunge.
If you don't have the time or don't want to purchase the extra equipment (or don't have the room for all that equipment) Check this out.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=8805
I built one of these mini mash tuns out of a 3 gallon cooler and it worked great. To me it was as easy as steeping grains and it is more efficient.

I don't see any reason to do a mini-mash before going AG. I do mini-mashes for speed and partials for gravity. I can do a mini-mash as fast as an extract batch with specialty grains (less than three hours). My equipment is sized for five gallon batches with OG's up to 1.070. The only time I need to go higher is for the odd-year barleywine. So, I do a 1.070 and add extract.

Ok, help me make a list of what i will need to do the AG.

1. A 5 gallon cooler for my mash tun

2. A ball valve and braided line

(my mash tun can also be used for my lauter correct?)

3. A brew pot big enough to take a full boil of 6.5 gallons for a 5 gallon batch

4. A grain mill should i be so spendy (100 to 150 right?)

It seems like i am missing something.

My brother and I started brewing this march and I will be damned if i can not stop. What i really want is a conical fermenter, but, seeing as how i dont even know how to AG yet that may be "getting the cart ahead of the horse"

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

THanks

Reverend

You might want a slightly larger cooler than five gallons because it's hard to do anything above a "normal gravity" beer in those, especially if you add water for mash-out. 7.5 gallons might be a tad better.

I'd also recommend against a bazooka tube or a braided hose for your manifold if you are going to do fly sparging. Invest the 20-30 bucks for a good stainless steel false bottom. I get way better efficiency with the stainless false bottom than I did with the bazooka tube. I think it definitely reduces channeling.

Yes, if you have a false bottom or some other sort of manifold, your mash tun will also be your lauter tun.

A ball valve kit is a *great* idea for the cooler so you don't have to mess with a one-hole stopper. If you don't understand this exactly, then don't worry. just look for a kit to convert your cooler's output hole to a ball valve, and you'll be happy.

You might want to invest in another cooler to hold your sparge water, and then you can attach this to a phil's sparge arm, for example, to greatly simplify your sparging.

An adjustable grain mill would be a good idea if you want some customization in your crush. You can get a corona mill for about fifty bucks, I think. So, it sounds like you're on the right track. Have fun!

As fo rthe Conical wait till you brew a year or so than buy the big one. Buy the 15 gal one so you won't be limited when you upgrade to a keg setup for mashing or brewing. If you are looking at buying a bigger kettle look at a converted keg or convert it yourself. I love my setup I can't brew often enough.

Reverend, check out this link if you haven't already!

thanks for that link. I have seen it before but forgot where i found it. He really does kind of dummy proof the process, and i needed that.

As far as converting a keg, are you talking about a normal 8 gallon keg. Just cutting the top off of it?