Barley Crusher, which size?

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Yeah...well...one night I was crushing in for a big 11 gallon APA and about 60% of the way through...she started smoking, sputtering...sparking, and just generally dying. You know how there's nothing quite like the smell of new electronics right out of the box?

There's really nothing like the smell of old electronics (or power tools) that are dying right in front of you.

She died happy.
She died brewing.
That's the way I want to go. (Right behind my first choice of being put down by a $1,000 a night hooker).
I've saved her "remains" and I will mount her soon for posterity.

LOL!!! Prost buddy! :mug:
 
To bring this back on topic, I brewed 11 Gal of Cream of Three Crops this Saturday. My previous efficiency was a consistent 68 - 70%, but after doing my own crush my efficiency jumped to 83%! So, get a 7lb hopper or a 15lb hopper.... or a 47lb hopper, doesn't matter. Just get a crusher and you won't be disappointed!
 
What gap do you have yours set at BierMuncher?

If you know me, you know my answer is "I dunno". :D

It varies greatly. I reduce the gap as much as possible for wheat and rye malt (and still run it through twice).

For two-row I set it as close as it will go and still "grab" the grains. I found that setting it too close and the rollers just skim the grains and don't grab-and-crush.

Even between different two-rows, there is a difference. Golden Promise seems to be a slightly larger hull and if possible...a bit more slippery.

So for me...the gap setting is whatever I need to get optimal crush.
 
If you know me, you know my answer is "I dunno". :D

Something to be said for truth in advertizing.... Thanks for the response. I hadn't thought about slipping on a narrow gap. Makes sense. I also hadn't considered the variability in grains and it's effect.

Guess it's time to go make some "experience"...

Cheers....
 
If you know me, you know my answer is "I dunno". :D

It varies greatly. I reduce the gap as much as possible for wheat and rye malt (and still run it through twice).

That is exactly what I had to do this weekend. I do wish the Barley crusher had a better way of setting gaps than the current thumb rollers - maybe a lever or something.
 
Used my 7 lb for the first time this weekend. Did an outstanding job. Unfortunately too good.

I checked the gap on my LHBS grinder and confirmed mine was the same at .039. However, the new crusher produced significantly finer results?? This resulted in a stuck sparge and way too much efficiency for my brew. Usually get about 75 - 78%. This beast produced 90%. I'll be dialing out the gap but what puzzles me is why would the results be so different with the same gap.
 
There are more factors involved than just the gap. The diameter of the rollers, the coarseness of the knurl and the speed at which the mill is turning can all affect the crush. It only takes a few stuck mashes to make one back off some on the crush. Determining the optimum crush is something of an art. Once you get it right, it's easy to recognize a good crush and repeat it time after time.
 
There are more factors involved than just the gap. The diameter of the rollers, the coarseness of the knurl and the speed at which the mill is turning can all affect the crush. It only takes a few stuck mashes to make one back off some on the crush. Determining the optimum crush is something of an art. Once you get it right, it's easy to recognize a good crush and repeat it time after time.


I'm a believer... Guess I'll crush some 2 row at my LHBS and use this for a visual comparsion in getting mine adjusted to match. Probably is simple once you've done it but initially I feel like I'm flying in the dark.
 
I just crushed 11lbs of Belgian Pilsner with my brand spankin new barley crusher at factory settings. Crush looks great, alot finer than my LHBS.

Worried I will get too high of efficiency. I want to nail this beer and really dont wanna over shoot.
 
I just crushed 11lbs of Belgian Pilsner with my brand spankin new barley crusher at factory settings. Crush looks great, alot finer than my LHBS.

Worried I will get too high of efficiency. I want to nail this beer and really dont wanna over shoot.


If it was set at .039 it will be too fine using a drill... get ready for stuck sparging.... and the highest efficiency you've seen on your equipment.

Great product but mine will get some adjustment before it's used again.
 
If it was set at .039 it will be too fine using a drill... get ready for stuck sparging.... and the highest efficiency you've seen on your equipment.

Great product but mine will get some adjustment before it's used again.
Nah, I've ran my grain through twice at the homebrew store and it was similar and didnt get stuck.
 
If it was set at .039 it will be too fine using a drill... get ready for stuck sparging.... and the highest efficiency you've seen on your equipment.

Great product but mine will get some adjustment before it's used again.

i gapped mine slightly smaller than the factory setting and have yet to see a stuck sparge on 10+ batches, covering everything from rye IPA's to oatmeal stouts. a lot may depend on what drill you use. i have a cordless that has high and low rpm gears. i get maybe 200-300 rpm on low. i can imagine a single gear corded drill doing a lot more damage though.

p.d.
 
Why does the drill speed make a difference? The gap is still the same size regardless of speed.

You want to crush the grain, not shred it. At too high a speed it tears the husk apart to much.
I run my 18 volt cordless dril on low speed while my wife slowly pours the grain into the hopper, making sure there is always some grain in the hopper but its not full. I have been getting 80% efficiency with this method so it works for me.
 
You want to crush the grain, not shred it. At too high a speed it tears the husk apart to much.
I run my 18 volt cordless dril on low speed while my wife slowly pours the grain into the hopper, making sure there is always some grain in the hopper but its not full. I have been getting 80% efficiency with this method so it works for me.
Makes sense. I will find out tomorrow if I've overdone it. Problem is that it is a golden strong ale that I'm brewing and i really want it to be done perfectly. I've sifted through the crushed grain and it seems the husks are pretty well in tact.
 
You want to crush the grain, not shred it. At too high a speed it tears the husk apart to much.
I run my 18 volt cordless dril on low speed while my wife slowly pours the grain into the hopper, making sure there is always some grain in the hopper but its not full. I have been getting 80% efficiency with this method so it works for me.

I agree, but you can compensate for running at higher speeds by enlarging the gap. High speed alone is not a problem so long as you make accomodations for it. I run slow at 115 rpm, so I can't speak from direct experience on this, but I got this from people who were involved in mill designs. Pretty much the same for the other variables. You can adjust out the differences and produce any grist you want with most mills. That's why any single gap setting such as .039 will not necessarily be optimum for all mills. There are other considrations.
 
BP,

I've improved my efficiency some by doing a longer 90 minute mash and a mash out. I hold the 170 mashout temp for 20 minutes. I've been getting an honest 72% efficiency lately and I'm fine with that.

Every brewer needs to experience a well stuck mash at least a couple of times before he/she can be considered a real brewer.

Took me a long time to arrive at the ideal crush for my system. I always had a tendency to crush too fine. I crushed until I got scared and then when I doughed in it got even sacrier when the mash turned to concrete. I concluded that a finer crush in persuit of higher efficiency was a fools wager. I got fooled more than a few times. I don't let that happen any longer.
 
BP,

I've improved my efficiency some by doing a longer 90 minute mash and a mash out. I hold the 170 mashout temp for 20 minutes. I've been getting an honest 72% efficiency lately and I'm fine with that.

Every brewer needs to experience a well stuck mash at least a couple of times before he/she can be considered a real brewer.

Took me a long time to arrive at the ideal crush for my system. I always had a tendency to crush too fine. I crushed until I got scared and then when I doughed in it got even sacrier when the mash turned to concrete. I concluded that a finer crush in persuit of higher efficiency was a fools wager. I got fooled more than a few times. I don't let that happen any longer.

Very sage advice.... As a matter of fact, my new challenge is in search of the Holy Grail of 75%. Don't want any more of that stuck sparge stuff thank you.
 
My gripe earlier was an error in the recipe counting cane sugar that hadnt been added to the fermenter yet. I actually got 81% with the crush.
 
I just joined the club!! Can't wait to try this thing out!

IMG_1873.jpg
 
I've suggested this many times but it always seems to go unnoticed. Oh well.

A $2-3 plastic wastepaper basket makes a handy extension to the stock 7# hopper. Cut the bottom out with a Dremel and set it into the stock hopper - done.

Do you have any pictures of this? I just purchased the 7lb BC from brewmasterswarehouse.com. It'd be nice to increase the capacity for just a few bucks.

Thanks.
 
I bought the 7lb version from BMW when they had the father's day sale. They kindly shipped me the 15lb version instead. I know it wasn't a mis-ship because the packing slip was changed to reflect the upgrade.
 
Do you have any pictures of this? I just purchased the 7lb BC from brewmasterswarehouse.com. It'd be nice to increase the capacity for just a few bucks.

Thanks.

Nevermind, they shipped me the 15lb version! :mug:
 
Sudz; your avitar made me laugh as it wasn't Holister just a couple days later staged photo shoot. My dad was there in 47 and 97 the 50th both still riding bike. Sorry OT.

I must add we used two Monster Mill 3-2 models set at the same gap one brand new the other brand new but the pointed knurling knocked off not having the sharp knurling tips just slightly cut down until a little flat spot can be seen.
This made for a better crush with less hull shredding and flower with the
knurling points knocked down vs the new untouched mill.
The other mill rollers had its knurling knocked down then all rollers sent
out to be case hardened.
These are 2" diameter rollers, I wouldn't recommend this alteration with the smaller
1 1/2" roller models due to the higher angle of entry of the smaller rollers with possible
grain slippage problems.
 
I bought the 7lb version from BMW when they had the father's day sale. They kindly shipped me the 15lb version instead. I know it wasn't a mis-ship because the packing slip was changed to reflect the upgrade.

When I got my BC from BMW they were out of the 7lb'rs and they shipped me a 15lb one instead, on the house. Gotta, say, that kinda service has made me a repeat customer!
 
When I got my BC from BMW they were out of the 7lb'rs and they shipped me a 15lb one instead, on the house. Gotta, say, that kinda service has made me a repeat customer!

I completely agree. I'll be going back to BMW for my future purchases.
 
A couple of things. I agree that refilling the hopper once is not a big deal. The first time I used my barley crusher on the factory settings I got about 82% efficiency and I was making BM's Cream of Three Crops... ended up coming out to about 5.8% ABV, NOT what i was shooting for! Oh, I also didnt know my boil of rate on the new pot, so it ended up being like right at 5 gallons instead of the 5.5 i think it was supposed to be. The rest of the batches I have been getting closer to 78% and I have been using my drill on the crusher for those. I guess that is due to the speed... I am tempted to slow down the speed or decrease the rollers width, but I almost would rather just keep getting the 78% and plan on that, then to keep making changes trying to up efficiency.

Its an inner battle between perfectionism and frugalness, which will win?
 
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