Old Rasputin Imperial Stout clone

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gresc

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Folks, has anyone tried the clone recipe from "The Best of BYO" ?
It claims that North Coast releases this to the public within a month. But... I've read that this can be quite harsh when it's young and that it should sit a least six months before consumed; any thoughts ? :mug:
 
I've done the recipe and it was fine after a month (yeast hadn't yet cleaned up all the acetaldehyde from being bottle conditioned though). It did improve over the next month or two.

Unfortunately, my batch did not last more than two months, so I have no idea what it would have been like at six months.
 
Hey guys,

I'm going to be brewing the below recipe (all-grain) next week and I had a few questions.

1) Has anyone brewed this recipe? When I input the recipe into BTP, the SRM comes out low and below the recommended range for this style. I've had Old Rasputin before and I'm pretty sure that the color is pretty close to black. If BTP is correct, and the color is light, what would be the outcome if I doubled the chocolate malt? I know it would darken the color, but how much would it change the overall taste?

2) I'm going to use a H20:Grain ratio of 1 for this recipe. With a big beer like this, any recommendations on my expected mach efficiency?

Thanks in advance,

Brody


Old Rasputin Imperial Stout (clone)
5 gallons, extract with grains
OG = 1.090 FG = 1.022 IBUs = 85-95 ABV =9%

Ingredients
9.9 lbs. Coopers Light malt extract syrup
1.0 lb. Hugh Baird Carastan malt
0.5 lb. Hugh Baird Brown malt
0.5 lb. chocolate malt
1.0 lb. crystal malt (120° L)
0.25 lb. roasted black barley
22.7 AAU Cluster hops (bittering)
(3.25 oz. of 7% alpha acid)
9.0 AAU Northern Brewer hops
(aroma hops) (1 oz. of 9% alpha acid)
8.8 AAU Centennial hops (aroma)
(1 oz. of 8.8% alpha acid)
1 tsp Irish moss
White Labs WLPOO1 (California Ale)yeast or Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) yeast
0.75 cup of corn sugar for priming

Step by Step
Steep the crushed malts in three gallons of water at 150° F for 30 minutes. Remove the grains from the wort, add malt syrup and bring to a boil. Add the Cluster (bittering) hops and Irish moss and boil for 60 minutes. Add the aroma hops (Northern Brewer and Centennial) for the last two minutes of the boil. When you are done boiling, strain out the hops and add the wort to two gallons cool water in a sanitary fermenter. Top the fermenter off with cool water to 5.5 gallons. Cool the wort to 80° F, aerate the beer and pitch your yeast. Allow the beer to cool over the next few hours tó~ 68-70° F, and ferment for 10 to 14 days. Bottle your beer, age for two to three weeks and enjoy! (Yes, that's right, this beer so well- balanced that North Coast releases it to the public in less than a month.)

All-grain option
Replace the light syrup with 14 lbs. of pale malt. Mash all your grains at 152° for 45 minutes. Collect enough wort to boil for 90 minutes and have a 5.5 gallon yield. Decrease the amount of bittering hops to 2.75 oz. of Cluster to account for the increased hop extraction efficiency in a full boil. The rest of the directions are the same.
 
I am brewing the recipe from the magazine now. I did make a couple minor alterations. I opted to sub for the carastan malt. My lhbs doesn't carry it. I also adjusted the hop schedule a tiny bit to have the ibu come out correctly and converted the malts to LME and opted for nearly a full boil.

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 4.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.091 SG
Estimated Color: 39.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 53.5 IBU
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
12.25 lb Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 79.03 %
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 6.45 %
0.50 lb Brown Malt (65.0 SRM) Grain 3.23 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 3.23 %
0.50 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 3.23 %
0.44 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 2.84 %
0.25 lb Black Barley (Stout) (500.0 SRM) Grain 1.61 %
0.06 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 0.39 %
3.00 oz Cluster [7.90 %] (60 min) Hops 43.7 IBU
0.50 oz Northern Brewer [8.50 %] (60 min) Hops 7.8 IBU
0.50 oz Northern Brewer [8.50 %] (2 min) Hops 0.7 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [8.50 %] (2 min) Hops 1.3 IBU
1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [2liter yeast starter on stir plate]

-------------

Thought I'd add some tasting notes here.

Its been a solid 2 months months in the bottle. I have to say this brew was great as soon as it was carbed, however its bordering on godlike 2 months later. Its very balanced with some malt and sweetness and its a high IBU brew. The above recipe worked great.
 
bnasse9900 said:
Hey guys,

I'm going to be brewing the below recipe (all-grain) next week and I had a few questions.

1) Has anyone brewed this recipe? When I input the recipe into BTP, the SRM comes out low and below the recommended range for this style. I've had Old Rasputin before and I'm pretty sure that the color is pretty close to black. If BTP is correct, and the color is light, what would be the outcome if I doubled the chocolate malt? I know it would darken the color, but how much would it change the overall taste?

2) I'm going to use a H20:Grain ratio of 1 for this recipe. With a big beer like this, any recommendations on my expected mach efficiency?

Thanks in advance,

Brody


Old Rasputin Imperial Stout (clone)
5 gallons, extract with grains
OG = 1.090 FG = 1.022 IBUs = 85-95 ABV =9%

Ingredients
9.9 lbs. Coopers Light malt extract syrup
1.0 lb. Hugh Baird Carastan malt
0.5 lb. Hugh Baird Brown malt
0.5 lb. chocolate malt
1.0 lb. crystal malt (120° L)
0.25 lb. roasted black barley
22.7 AAU Cluster hops (bittering)
(3.25 oz. of 7% alpha acid)
9.0 AAU Northern Brewer hops
(aroma hops) (1 oz. of 9% alpha acid)
8.8 AAU Centennial hops (aroma)
(1 oz. of 8.8% alpha acid)
1 tsp Irish moss
White Labs WLPOO1 (California Ale)yeast or Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) yeast
0.75 cup of corn sugar for priming

Step by Step
Steep the crushed malts in three gallons of water at 150° F for 30 minutes. Remove the grains from the wort, add malt syrup and bring to a boil. Add the Cluster (bittering) hops and Irish moss and boil for 60 minutes. Add the aroma hops (Northern Brewer and Centennial) for the last two minutes of the boil. When you are done boiling, strain out the hops and add the wort to two gallons cool water in a sanitary fermenter. Top the fermenter off with cool water to 5.5 gallons. Cool the wort to 80° F, aerate the beer and pitch your yeast. Allow the beer to cool over the next few hours tó~ 68-70° F, and ferment for 10 to 14 days. Bottle your beer, age for two to three weeks and enjoy! (Yes, that's right, this beer so well- balanced that North Coast releases it to the public in less than a month.)

All-grain option
Replace the light syrup with 14 lbs. of pale malt. Mash all your grains at 152° for 45 minutes. Collect enough wort to boil for 90 minutes and have a 5.5 gallon yield. Decrease the amount of bittering hops to 2.75 oz. of Cluster to account for the increased hop extraction efficiency in a full boil. The rest of the directions are the same.
Click to expand...

I just made this on Friday the all grain way. Did you say that its a 90 minute boil for All Grain but a 60 minute boil for extract? What happens if I only boiled it for 60 minutes? I hate how I do this when recipes are extract and they have a P.S. at the end if you want to do all grain. I try to rewrite it so I can't screw it up... and then I always screw it up!

Oh well, it's already in the tank and bubbling at a steady rate... just wondering what the difference in the times might mean for the finished beer.
 
CheshireCat said:
I just made this on Friday the all grain way. Did you say that its a 90 minute boil for All Grain but a 60 minute boil for extract? What happens if I only boiled it for 60 minutes? I hate how I do this when recipes are extract and they have a P.S. at the end if you want to do all grain. I try to rewrite it so I can't screw it up... and then I always screw it up!

Oh well, it's already in the tank and bubbling at a steady rate... just wondering what the difference in the times might mean for the finished beer.
Click to expand...

the longer boil for AG is intended to boil off more water and concentrate the wort. Its not absolutely necessary, but it helps raise efficiency because you can sparge more and get more sugars out of the mash. did you take a gravity reading after the boil?
 
The OG was around 1.080 - 1.085.

I have it in secondary now, it's been in there 17 days with the temp at 68-70 degrees. I was planning to keep it in there at least 60 days since many brewers have recommended this for better results.

It's my second all-grain beer and first stout.
 
The OG sounds decent. Record that, and if you're all grain batches are consistently low (low efficiency) you can just add more basemalt to your recipes to make up for it, or change your process. Keep in mind that big grain bills like this tend to hurt efficiency, hence the longer boil.

I usually primary "big" beers 3-4 weeks. Your mileage may vary.
 
That makes sense. A ton of grain needs to be boiled longer.

I hadn't taken gravity measurements until this batch because I broke my hydrometer early on in my rookie brewing career and didn't get another one for awhile. But I'm doing all-grain now so I'm trying to follow a more proper operating plan, and take more notes.

I read about the extended primary time somewhere on here but it was already in secondary at that point. That's when I started hearing that guys were keeping it in secondary for 2 months or more.

So I guess this one will be ready next Christmas lol!
 

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