Welder needed for Keg Conversion in Eastern PA, tri state area

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BucksPA

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Hello fellows,

I just scored 3 domestic kegs from my buddy who is a beer wholesaler for Miller. He got them from free and passed them along to me for free. Sweet. I'm still working on a design, but am leaning towards a Herms over gravity system.

I may be posting in the wrong forum here, but am wondering if there are any welders in eastern pa (bucks county) or new jersey who can help me out. I haven't converted a keg before, so someone with experience in converting kegs to boil kettles, mash tuns, and HLT's would be an additional help.

Please let me know. Can't wait to get this project started and stop brewing extract!

cheers,

jeff
 
You technically don't need to weld.

Step one: Check out Bobby M's outstanding "cutting the top off a keg" video:


Step two: Order up your fittings from Bargain Fittings. Wait a couple of days before the mailman brings 'em to your door (won't take long, Wayne's QUICK!)

Step three: Snag a step bit to drill 11/16" holes where you want your fittings to go, and screw 'em in.

Only tools you need are an angle grinder, a drill, and a step bit. Easy peasy, Japanesey!

Also have a look at this fine wee step by step guide - http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=31646
 
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I will agree that is a nice video. I wonder why no one who does this ever tells people to remove the grinding spatter for the keg? There will be a collection of grinding spray all along the upper part of your keg. It is easy to get off using a NEW SS wire brush. But, howcome it is never referenced?
 
I will agree that is a nice video. I wonder why no one who does this ever tells people to remove the grinding spatter for the keg? There will be a collection of grinding spray all along the upper part of your keg. It is easy to get off using a NEW SS wire brush. But, howcome it is never referenced?

I fill my kegs with water all the way until past the top radius almost into the cut zone be it with a gringer or plasma cutter. Screw that extra cleaning labor make life easy on yourself.
 
There was a recent thread on here with someone's easy alternative to using BobbyM's jig. Can't find it right now, but I'll keep looking.
 
There was a recent thread on here with someone's easy alternative to using BobbyM's jig. Can't find it right now, but I'll keep looking.
Not sure if this is it, but when I looked for Bobby's video on youtube searching for keggle cutting, this was actually the first hit:

2" pipe for the pivot, and using a bolt for the swingarm. A lot easier, and a lot more stable to boot, I'd think.
 
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Not sure if this is it, but when I looked for Bobby's video on youtube searching for keggle cutting, this was actually the first hit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUArSVSc_WI
2" pipe for the pivot, and using a bolt for the swingarm. A lot easier, and a lot more stable to boot, I'd think.


That's a nice way to do it. I am not too sure how many grinders have a threaded hole in the top like that. I know the guy was holding the camera to show how it works, good thing too. It shows a flaw at about 1:06 in. The bolt slips allowing the grinder to move in toward the pivot point. So, anyone using this idea should be sure to keep pressure on the backside of the bolt while holding the pivot point. Or change out the bolt to one with threads all along the shank so you can place a nut up against the pipe.

Just a thought.
 
Im from bucks and you should check out http://www.aleiens.com/, i asked for a local welder and someone responded. check under gadgets in the forum

Thanks HighTide. This is what i need. I'll have to contact them to see what they charge. I've never heard of these weldless fittings before. Does anyone have any experience with these no-weld fittings? Do you like it, or would you rather had the fittings welded?

jeff
 
I found my jig to have a lot of stability because the backside also rested on the keg lip on the side opposite the cut. It also held the grinder at more points than just the threads.
 
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