What Sanitisers and Cleaners are used.

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Bones1948 said:
I wash all crud off everything until visibly clean then air-dry or dry w/ paper towel. I sanitize w/ spray mist of 50/50 mix of tap water/generic Everclear (Mohawk brand 95% alcohol, 11 bucks a liter). Nothing can live in it and there is not enough residual alcohol on the surface of the equipment to alter the brewing process or flavors.
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Wow! That is expensive. $12.99 worth of Starsan will make 8 gallons of sanitizer. You are getting 2 liters.
 
Ya don't have to soak the equipment with it. A one-time very fine mist of the booze mixture on the surface of anything is sufficient to instantaneously kill all living organisms it touches so I am assured there won't be any mishaps like I had w/ one batch of beer using Starsan sanitization. It's an insurance policy. An 11 dollar bottle of ethyl alcohol will sanitize equipment for many, many batches of beer when used judiciously. The shelf life of the stuff is infinity. I also use the stuff to sanitize my venison processing equipment. I keep a bottle of it in my 1st aid kit to sterilize my suturing equipment for sewing up drunks at hunting and fishing camps.
 
Bones1948 said:
Ya don't have to soak the equipment with it. A one-time very fine mist of the booze mixture on the surface of anything is sufficient to instantaneously kill all living organisms it touches so I am assured there won't be any mishaps like I had w/ one batch of beer using Starsan sanitization. It's an insurance policy. An 11 dollar bottle of ethyl alcohol will sanitize equipment for many, many batches of beer when used judiciously. The shelf life of the stuff is infinity. I also use the stuff to sanitize my venison processing equipment. I keep a bottle of it in my 1st aid kit to sterilize my suturing equipment for sewing up drunks at hunting and fishing camps.
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That is the same way I use Starsan and I have never had an infection in 7 1/2 years. In those years I bought 1 sixteen ounce bottle of Starsan. The sixteen ounce bottle cost about $15 back then. I've done 100 batches of beer and at least 20 wines and one cider since then. As far as I know the shelf life of Starsan is infinite also. I may decide to switch, if, I ever have an infection.
 
I tend to use PBW to clean the hard soiling, then PAA before I brew.
 
Orfy said:
Brewers are an ingenious lot.

This is a list of some of the products uses for cleaning and sanitising.

Cleaners

1. Oxyclean (an industrial version)
2. PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) - Caked on deposits, similar to oxiclean usage.
3. Bleach Soak (~1c/5gal) When visibly clean, but I want a good single cleaning/sanitizing step
4. Hot water no detergent
5. If it's stainless, BKF.
6. Dish soap.
7. TSP (tri-sodium phosphate solution)
8. dishwasher detergent.Calgonite brand
10. Anti-bacterial dish soap
11.Antiformin S (it's like bleach but with more caustic). It's rapid! A 20% bleach solution makes an excellent cleaner too.
12. BLC for the hoses/connectors/faucets.
13. an unbranded powdered beer line cleaner (not BLC) I get from the LHBS for cleaning my keg lines
14. Straight-A (percarbonate cleaner)


Sanitisers

1. Idophor (a medical version -- Betadine 10% aqueous)
I pay £3 for 500ml and need 1.25ml per litre to make a no rinse solution
Description: If you keep your equipment clean between brews, Iodophor is a great sanitizer. (Your equipment will not be clean if you simply rinse after use. You must use a cleaner, such as TSP.) Iodophor is excellent for stainless steel- which Diversol will corrode- and all other beermaking equipment. Mixed properly and used in a spray bottle, Iodophor is almost magical in its convenience: there's no waiting and no rinsing. Cleaning Iodophor does not clean. Use a cleanser such as TSP before sanitizing with Iodophor. Sanitizing Mix 1 ml per litre of cold water. You must use a syringe for accurate measurement. Use a spray bottle to coat equipment with solution. Shake off excess or allow equipment to drain. Do not rinse. Use the equipment. It's that easy! Cautions When in solution, Iodophor rapidly breaks down. Every time you use it, you must make a fresh solution. Not effective unless mixed accurately. Use a syringe. Will not clean dirty or stained equipment. Hazardous for those with iodine allergies. Concentrated solution stains skin and fabric.

2) Bleach (15mL/gal) + HOT water rinse (Sodium Hypochlorite)

Description: Unscented household bleach can be used as a sanitizer and cleaner. For sanitizing, it is just as effective as Diversol. For cleaning, however, either Diversol or TSP would be preferable. Cleaning Mix 2.5 ml per litre of cold water (1 tbsp. per gal.) and follow the cleaning instructions for Diversol . When rinsing, remove all traces of chlorine smell. Sanitizing Using a solution of 5 ml per litre of cold water (1 tbsp. per gal.) follow the cleaning instructions for Diversol Cautions See above. Don't use scented bleach. Those 'spring fresh' and 'lemony' perfumes will sink into equipment permanently. All subsequent batches will smell and taste like perfume.

3) Autoclave (glassware only) (18psi @ 250˚F for 20min)

4. Starsan- no rinse and I love the foam

5. Diversol (Sani-Brew) Description: As well as being a sanitizer, Diversol has the added benefit of being an extremely effective cleaner. Available under a variety of trade names, you'll recognize Diversol because it is a chlorinated pink powder. Cleaning Dissolve 3.5 g per litre of cold water (5 tsp. per gal). Soak stained equipment up to 48 hours. Rinse thoroughly with hot water. Sanitizing Fill primary fermenter with Diversol solution (3.5 g per litre of cold water [5 tsp. per gal.]). Fully immerse all equipment: hoses, spoons, bungs, hydrometers, thermometers, airlocks, and primary lid. Soak equipment for at least 20 min. Remove lid, rinse carefully (but thoroughly) with hot water and turn it upside-down on the counter. Rinse equipment, placing items inside sanitized lid. To sanitize a carboy: With bung in carboy, slosh 9 litres (2 gal.) Diversol solution all around inside. Repeat twice, with 5 minutes between repetitions. Rinse after 20 min. Cautions Corrodes stainless steel. Can bleach clothing. Do not mix with acids, amines, or ammonia. Such a mixture produces dangerous gases.

6. One Step since it came with my kit. I have not noticed any discernible effects of the two. I use star-san because it can be re-used and I can buy it in larger quantities.

7. 70% Isopropyl Alcohol for little parts

8. Potassium Metabisulphate (Campden tablets) Potassium metabisulfite is sometimes used in the brewing industry to inhibit the growth of wild yeasts, bacteria, and fungi. This is called 'stabilizing'. It is used both by homebrewers and commercial brewers alike. It is not used as much for brewing beer, because the wort is almost always boiled, which kills most microorganisms anyway.
Click to expand...
Thanks you. good information.
 
I bought the big 32oz star San when I started brewing. I’ve been continually brewing beer for 7-8 years and I’m just now reaching the end of the bottle. What an amazing value and not once did I have a single infection.
 
Hey folks,

I don't know if this is an okay post (I know it's commercial, but not terribly). We've been selling a few products into the commercial space for a few years and we've made the decision to bring them into the homebrewing realm.

Has anyone come across and/or tried AmBrew Cleanser or San Step Acid Sanitizer?

Just wondering.

Rick Theiner
LOGIC, Inc.
 
The “does not degrade” part is what makes me nervous. I have not seen any studies that show the effect on the microbiome of the digestive tract. I like to use an autoclave (pressure canner) for glass and metal, and vodka for plastic bits and bobs after cleaning. Also, boiled or boiling water works well for rinsing tools in process or after an expedient dip in star-San. No infections yet, and a healthy gut! I’d err on the side of infected brew over chemical exposure when given the choice. Remember people have been brewing for thousands of years before modern germ theory or chemical industry.

WBC said:
Use Starsan as it makes life as a brewer easy. I purchase Sparkletts 2.5 gallon distilled water and add 1/2 oz Starsan as it does not degrade. I just take the cap off and add 1/2 oz Starsan and shake. The lid will come off and I can replace it and the seal is still good. It stays clear and powerfull as there is nothing in distilled water to lessen Starsan's effectivness. I can use a spray bottle with this solution and know it is effective for weeks.
Click to expand...
 
I used heat for glass inside oven, both carboys and bottles back when I bottled. Turn oven to lowest setting usually 200-250F place in a cold oven and let it heat up, remove after 30 min. When I took out the carboys I used to "cap" them with a cheap 8 o'clock vodka soaked napkin. and let cool to room temp naturally. Heat IMO is the best sanitizer, because it kills almost everything indiscriminately and leaves no residue, or any chemicals.

My other stuff, like small plastic parts, tubes, etc... I have a large old cooler with an iodine solution. Usually mixed light, but I tend to soak the stuff for longer. Never had problems.
 
SeanTheWheatBrewer said:
Why doesn’t anyone just use one-step sanitizer?
Click to expand...

Years ago I used one-step until I had a problem with a bottling wand. Taking the wand back to the brewshop, the first thing they ask me "What type of saintizer was used?" I reply, "One-step". They explained how one-step is "gritty" and interfering with the bottling wand. Never realized the gritty problem, but this was when I was fermenting in white food grade buckets. What did I know? I return home, mix up a small batch of "One-Step" and sure enough, the liquid has gritty parts in it. This was the last time I used "One-Step". If memory serves me well this was 1998.
 
Tobor_8thMan said:
Years ago I used one-step until I had a problem with a bottling wand. Taking the wand back to the brewshop, the first thing they ask me "What type of saintizer was used?" I reply, "One-step". They explained how one-step is "gritty" and interfering with the bottling wand. Never realized the gritty problem, but this was when I was fermenting in white food grade buckets. What did I know? I return home, mix up a small batch of "One-Step" and sure enough, the liquid has gritty parts in it. This was the last time I used "One-Step". If memory serves me well this was 1998.
Click to expand...

Yep, that was part of why we reformulated. When I was asked to formulate the product I was living in Memphis, TN-- incredible water! Later, in the mid-2000's, I moved to Madison, WI and discovered that One Step does not like lots of dissolved minerals in the water.

I'd been getting questions about grit and things left behind for a few years, but hadn't been able to figure it out. (You've got to cut me some slack on this, I was still awfully green as a formulator.) After realizing what the problem was, we reformulated for hard water and it generally doesn't have that issue anymore. I say "generally" simply because we can't anticipate all water conditions.

Hope that's informative!

Rick
 
Rickdude said:
Yep, that was part of why we reformulated. When I was asked to formulate the product I was living in Memphis, TN-- incredible water! Later, in the mid-2000's, I moved to Madison, WI and discovered that One Step does not like lots of dissolved minerals in the water.

I'd been getting questions about grit and things left behind for a few years, but hadn't been able to figure it out. (You've got to cut me some slack on this, I was still awfully green as a formulator.) After realizing what the problem was, we reformulated for hard water and it generally doesn't have that issue anymore. I say "generally" simply because we can't anticipate all water conditions.

Hope that's informative!

Rick
Click to expand...

Yes, it is. Thanks for the feedback and input.

Unfortunately, I have hard water here. I guess I could test with bottled/distilled/reverse osmosis water, but then these are added costs/PITA.
 
Not necessarily... since you haven't tried it since '98 it might work pretty well with the new formula. I'd be happy to send a trial sample out if you PM me, especially if you don't mind sharing info from the field test! :)
 
Rickdude said:
Not necessarily... since you haven't tried it since '98 it might work pretty well with the new formula. I'd be happy to send a trial sample out if you PM me, especially if you don't mind sharing info from the field test! :)
Click to expand...

Thanks, I do appreciate the offer. However, if I'm going to try I'd rather do on my own. That way I know 100% I am not being influenced in any way.
 
Orfy said:
Brewers are an ingenious lot.

This is a list of some of the products uses for cleaning and sanitising.

Cleaners

1. Oxyclean (an industrial version)
2. PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) - Caked on deposits, similar to oxiclean usage.
3. Bleach Soak (~1c/5gal) When visibly clean, but I want a good single cleaning/sanitizing step
4. Hot water no detergent
5. If it's stainless, BKF.
6. Dish soap.
7. TSP (tri-sodium phosphate solution)
8. dishwasher detergent.Calgonite brand
10. Anti-bacterial dish soap
11.Antiformin S (it's like bleach but with more caustic). It's rapid! A 20% bleach solution makes an excellent cleaner too.
12. BLC for the hoses/connectors/faucets.
13. an unbranded powdered beer line cleaner (not BLC) I get from the LHBS for cleaning my keg lines
14. Straight-A (percarbonate cleaner)


Sanitisers

1. Idophor (a medical version -- Betadine 10% aqueous)
I pay £3 for 500ml and need 1.25ml per litre to make a no rinse solution
Description: If you keep your equipment clean between brews, Iodophor is a great sanitizer. (Your equipment will not be clean if you simply rinse after use. You must use a cleaner, such as TSP.) Iodophor is excellent for stainless steel- which Diversol will corrode- and all other beermaking equipment. Mixed properly and used in a spray bottle, Iodophor is almost magical in its convenience: there's no waiting and no rinsing. Cleaning Iodophor does not clean. Use a cleanser such as TSP before sanitizing with Iodophor. Sanitizing Mix 1 ml per litre of cold water. You must use a syringe for accurate measurement. Use a spray bottle to coat equipment with solution. Shake off excess or allow equipment to drain. Do not rinse. Use the equipment. It's that easy! Cautions When in solution, Iodophor rapidly breaks down. Every time you use it, you must make a fresh solution. Not effective unless mixed accurately. Use a syringe. Will not clean dirty or stained equipment. Hazardous for those with iodine allergies. Concentrated solution stains skin and fabric.

2) Bleach (15mL/gal) + HOT water rinse (Sodium Hypochlorite)

Description: Unscented household bleach can be used as a sanitizer and cleaner. For sanitizing, it is just as effective as Diversol. For cleaning, however, either Diversol or TSP would be preferable. Cleaning Mix 2.5 ml per litre of cold water (1 tbsp. per gal.) and follow the cleaning instructions for Diversol . When rinsing, remove all traces of chlorine smell. Sanitizing Using a solution of 5 ml per litre of cold water (1 tbsp. per gal.) follow the cleaning instructions for Diversol Cautions See above. Don't use scented bleach. Those 'spring fresh' and 'lemony' perfumes will sink into equipment permanently. All subsequent batches will smell and taste like perfume.

3) Autoclave (glassware only) (18psi @ 250˚F for 20min)

4. Starsan- no rinse and I love the foam

5. Diversol (Sani-Brew) Description: As well as being a sanitizer, Diversol has the added benefit of being an extremely effective cleaner. Available under a variety of trade names, you'll recognize Diversol because it is a chlorinated pink powder. Cleaning Dissolve 3.5 g per litre of cold water (5 tsp. per gal). Soak stained equipment up to 48 hours. Rinse thoroughly with hot water. Sanitizing Fill primary fermenter with Diversol solution (3.5 g per litre of cold water [5 tsp. per gal.]). Fully immerse all equipment: hoses, spoons, bungs, hydrometers, thermometers, airlocks, and primary lid. Soak equipment for at least 20 min. Remove lid, rinse carefully (but thoroughly) with hot water and turn it upside-down on the counter. Rinse equipment, placing items inside sanitized lid. To sanitize a carboy: With bung in carboy, slosh 9 litres (2 gal.) Diversol solution all around inside. Repeat twice, with 5 minutes between repetitions. Rinse after 20 min. Cautions Corrodes stainless steel. Can bleach clothing. Do not mix with acids, amines, or ammonia. Such a mixture produces dangerous gases.

6. One Step since it came with my kit. I have not noticed any discernible effects of the two. I use star-san because it can be re-used and I can buy it in larger quantities.

7. 70% Isopropyl Alcohol for little parts

8. Potassium Metabisulphate (Campden tablets) Potassium metabisulfite is sometimes used in the brewing industry to inhibit the growth of wild yeasts, bacteria, and fungi. This is called 'stabilizing'. It is used both by homebrewers and commercial brewers alike. It is not used as much for brewing beer, because the wort is almost always boiled, which kills most microorganisms anyway.
Click to expand...
I use Idophor. Great stuff.
 
What about star-clean? It's like star-san (no rinse needed), but non-foaming, so can be used with a fastwasher :)
 
Is SaniClean the same as Star-San, but without the foaming? I was planning on using it through a CIP ball in my conical for pre-transfer sanitizing, but I think I saw something recently about it being described as a "final rinse" instead of a sanitizer.
 
I bought the Amazon commercial enzyme cleaner concentrate to work on pet stains in my home. It is the type of cleaner that breaks down organic matter. This seems like it would be useful in brewing like PBW. The product is this - Amazon Commercial Enzyme Cleaner

Thoughts anyone?
 

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kh54s10 said:
Wow that is expensive. Oxiclean costs half that for 3 pounds not just one. A tub of oxiclean lasts me for several years.
But, whatever works best for you is what counts.
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I agree, it is more expensive ( I used Oxiclean as well for years). I bought it on a whim because of the good reviews. After my first few uses, I have never had anything clean my RIMS tube quite like it. I have the SS Brewtech RIMS (double helix) tube that is really hard to clean because you can't fit your fingers, sponge, etc very easily between the metal. I used to soak it a few times in Oxi or PB then scrub with a keg tube brush. What sold me on the wash was after a hopslam brewday (the byo recipe is quite good btw :) ) my RIMS element was just covered with baked on sugars and mash byproduct. This was not the stuff that wipes off either, it was just fried on there. I took the RIMS unit cover and put 2 TC caps over the holes, filled the cover with 1 tbsp of wash and some hot water, clamped the RIMS element into the cover and let it sit overnight. The next morning when I opened it up it looked great. I rinsed it with some hot water and it looked like it was brand new, I didn't have to even scrub it! Since then all I use is EBW hehe. It might cost a bit more, but the time and energy it saves me over the course of clean up is worth something too. I've found that it works best when you make a gallon or two at 1 to 1.5 concentration. I clean all 3 vessels and rims tube now with just that.

Either way, Oxi is also a great product (as is many of the other cleaners) and you are 100% right that it's whatever works for you is what counts :).

On a side note, am I crazy to take my kegs apart every time between fills and clean them vs just rinsing them out?

Cheers!
 

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