Vienna Lager Mexican Lager

Unfortunately I'm not an AG guy yet. Any chance someone could convert this recipe to extract for me. It sounds awesome!


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Grain to LME: lbs grain x .75 = lbs LME
Grain to DME: lbs grain x .6 = lbs DME
LME to Grain: lbs LME / .75 = lbs Grain
DME to Grain: lbs DME / .6 = lbs Grain
LME to DME: lbs LME x .8 = lbs DME
DME to LME: lbs DME x 1.25 = lbs LME

so.. if my math and assumption is correct.... (someone check me please) this would be good for a PM/MM

4 lbs Pilsen Malt 40.4 % = 3lbs LME or 4lbs DME
3 lbs 8.0 oz Vienna Malt 35.3 % = 2.5 lbs LME or 2lbs DME

the rest i m pretty sure.. you can use as is. and just mash as usual. Some will probably comback and say that the Vienna can be used at that weight
if you have room to mash that much.

1 lbs 4.0 oz Munich Malt 12.6 %
1 lbs Corn, Flaked (1.3 SRM) 10.1 %
2.0 oz Crystal Malt - 60L 1.3 %
0.5 oz Carafa Special I 0.3 %

Awesome thanks!


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Brewing this recipe with a few small changes on Friday. Since it is a mexican - vienna lager, I am going to name it "Pedro von Beethoven". Hope that mine turns out as well as yours.

I tired this out over the weekend, we will know how it is in September!

I'm gonna give this a go for my next batch. Temps warming up and need a good lawnmower beer.

Special Hops said:

I'm gonna give this a go for my next batch. Temps warming up and need a good lawnmower beer.

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So I brewed this up and it was absolutely delicious. Only thing I was I had some seriously stuck sparge. Not sure if it was due to the flaked corn. Has anyone else experienced this?

I just did one with 25% flaked corn and no stuck sparge. I did, however, have 1.5lbs of rice hulls mixed in.

Rob2010SS said:

I just did one with 25% flaked corn and no stuck sparge. I did, however, have 1.5lbs of rice hulls mixed in.

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Yes - I am planning another batch of this recipe, but will be adding rice hulls.

I just brewed this with Kveik Lutra.

Brewed 4/25
Fermented at 72 F
Cold Crashed 5/2
Kegged 5/7

It's been on 30 psi since this morning (10 hrs).
I was curious so I pulled a half pint.

Damn! (in a good way)

Fairly clean.
Great color.
Delicious.

Maybe not as clean as true lager (so far) but .... twelve days, grain to glass I got NO complaints.

This one was a big hit. Malty goodness and no overpowering hops.

On my second batch of this. Followed the recipe and conversion schedule exactly.

This is truly a great recipe.

Its a little sweet (i guess from the corn) and malt forward. Excellent.

Poobah58 said:

Batch #2 is on tap. Fermented 5 gallons with the Mexican yeast and 3 gallons with a dry Swiss yeast #189. The Swiss is maltier and a bit boring. The Mexican yeast is a killer. Won't last past next weekend!

This year (16 gallon batch):
13 lbs Pilsen (1.8 SRM) 43.3 %
10 lbs 8.0 oz Vienna Malt (3.0 SRM) 35.0 %
3 lbs Corn, Flaked (1.3 SRM) 10.0 %
3 lbs Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) 10.0 %
7.0 oz Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) 1.5 %
1.0 oz Carafa Special II (415.0 SRM) 0.2 %
0.60 oz Northern Brewer [9.00 %] - Boil 90.0 min 7.3 IBUs
4.00 oz Crystal [3.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min 17.4 IBUs
0.80 oz Crystal [3.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min 0.9 IBUs
1.0 pkg Mexican Lager (White Labs #WLP940)
1.0 pkg SafLager Swiss Lager (Fermentis #S-189)

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2 seperate yeasts in the same beer?. thinking of trying this as my go to is Dosxx lager if im going for all day drinking lol

do i have to use a secondary. or can i just ferment. up temp for 2-3 days and then crash to lager. i have a unitank i can dump yeast.

Unitanks are great! No need to ‘secondary’, plus lots of reasons not to. Let the fermentation go until you get gravity readings about 5 points from where you think Final Gravity will be when fermentation is complete.

For instance, if your estimated final gravity will be 1.010 SG, when SG reaches 1.015, raise the fermenter temperature to about 65~70F and attach a spunding valve set to slightly more than 1 BAR pressure (say 16 psig, if your tank can safely sustain that pressure). After 3~5 days, fermentation should be complete.

Then you can cold crash to near freezing. If you want, you can dump trub before crashing or after (or both), but remember you’re pressurized and you need to dump very slowly and very carefully or else you’ll end up with a real mess while leaving a lot of the trub still in the tank. Just barely crack the dump valve and wait for flow to start. When it starts it’ll gush so be ready to close the valve if/when it does.

After you’ve dumped, give the tank a day or two to resettle, then transfer into your serving keg. The beer should be cold, clear and carbonated, ready to serve and enjoy!

Poobah58 said:

I'll try to give more detail guys. I have a RIMS system. It will differ from a step mash obviously. This is the mash & boil process:
1. Put water in HLT and start to heat upto 168F.
2. Put water in Mash Tun. Start circulating and set temp to 131F.
3. Crush grain except corn.
4. Stop MT pump. Throw in grain (and corn). I also throw in some rice hulls with every batch. Add water if needed to achieve a somewhat soupy mash.
5. Vorlauf. When done, start MT pump and maintain 131F for 15 min.
6. Ramp to 150F for 60 minutes.
7. Ramp to 160F for 15 minutes.
8. Ramp to 168F.
9. Sparge from HLT onto Boil Kettle. Add FWH to boil kettle.
10. Bring to boil. Boil for 30 minutes and add 60 minutes hops.
11. Boil for 45 minutes and add 15 minute hops.
12. Boil for 5 minutes and add yeast nutrient.
13. Boil 10 minutes, then chill wort.
14. Drain (rack) to primary.

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im confused..

90 min boil? or first hops are before boil?

mggray87 said:

im confused..

90 min boil? or first hops are before boil?

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Yeah. FWH (First Wort Hops) are added during sparge or while the wort is being brought to boil temperature. Kinda’ like steeping/whirlpool hops in reverse. It is believed that the process ‘softens’ the bitterness, whatever that means. The bittering charge hop oils get isomerized at different increasing temperatures as the wort rises from sparge to boil.

Brooothru said:

Yeah. FWH (First Wort Hops) are added during sparge or while the wort is being brought to boil temperature. Kinda’ like steeping/whirlpool hops in reverse. It is believed that the process ‘softens’ the bitterness, whatever that means. The bittering charge hop oils get isomerized at different increasing temperatures as the wort rises from sparge to boil.

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I might add that I do FWH probably 80% of the time, substituting FWH for the first bittering charge. BeerSmith has a calculation for FWH additions that compensates for both the additional time and different temperatures.

Probably the best argument for FWH is that you won’t forget to add your bittering hops! . I hate it when I do that!

Brooothru said:

Yeah. FWH (First Wort Hops) are added during sparge or while the wort is being brought to boil temperature. Kinda’ like steeping/whirlpool hops in reverse. It is believed that the process ‘softens’ the bitterness, whatever that means. The bittering charge hop oils get isomerized at different increasing temperatures as the wort rises from sparge to boil.

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I do brew in a basket or bag. Do I just follow this still and when I start draining the basket. And start bringing to boil throw in hops? I never did a multiple temp mash I only have done a single temp for 60 min or 90 min. So this is new to me

mggray87 said:

I do brew in a basket or bag. Do I just follow this still and when I start draining the basket. And start bringing to boil throw in hops? I never did a multiple temp mash I only have done a single temp for 60 min or 90 min. So this is new to me

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No need to change your mashing process. When you ‘pull the bag’ and you’re letting it drain, just chuck the FWH into the kettle. When I used to BIAB, I would start applying the heat to the wort as soon as I pulled the grain bag out of the wort. This is when I’d toss in the FWH. Doing FWH is separate from the mashing as well as ‘mash hopping’.

Brooothru said:

No need to change your mashing process. When you ‘pull the bag’ and you’re letting it drain, just chuck the FWH into the kettle. When I used to BIAB, I would start applying the heat to the wort as soon as I pulled the grain bag out of the wort. This is when I’d toss in the FWH. Doing FWH is separate from the mashing as well as ‘mash hopping’.

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I meant I never done a step mash like increasing the time. That part is new to me. Do I raise temp. And start the time as soon as it reaches the next step or do I include the rising temp time as the time in next step?
I may make no sense right now