New Perlick faucets=extremely fast pour

Hi all

I made a Keezer for myself a couple months ago.
Dual Tower setup, air cooled tower-
I have yet to dive into the home brew world, so commercial beer for now

I am on my 7th and 8th kegs.(I run two 1/4's at a time-Drakes IPA and Fosters...for the wife)

I had my system pretty dialed in ~12psi around 39*(not sure on the actual beer temp, but I am headed out today to get a thermometer I can dip in my glass to get a true read.

Before my Drakes IPA would pour perfect every time, Fosters was kinda hit and miss but acceptable.

After my last kegs went dry I cleaned my system and new Perlick 425ss and slapped it all together.
I sat there and admired the beauty of the Perlicks. Another bonus of the Perlicks is they move the spout out an inch or so over the standard faucets and are perfectly contered over my drip tray.

Anyways, once I fired them up, the beer velocity had increased drastically. The Drakes comes out clean but literally fills my 12oz beer glass in less than two seconds.
The Fosters comes out all foam.

I was able to get the velocity down and get a decent pour of the Fosters, but I had to drop the PSI to around 8.

Do you all think that 8 is too low and endangering me ending up with flat beer?

Many Thanks
Brian

The old faucets most likely offered more resistance to the flow. How long are your beer lines? Make them longer in most cases to solve the problem. I use 10' of 3/16 line and have a slow but great pour.

I believe my lines are 5 or 6 feet...whatever came with the conversion kit.
Can I splice in a length or do I need to replace the whole line assembly?

Thanks

you need to replace the whole line - a splice will create a spot for foam to burst out.
line is relatively cheap - use thick-walled 3/16" I.D. beverage line designed for beer - 10' is great, slower pour but no foaming issues as long as it's cold. i could go shorter probably, but i don't need a faster pour and i enjoy being able to control foam effectively - i can create foam at the tap if i need to.

and 8 is too low, it will eventually equalize and CO2 will come out of the beer.

OK, so if I extend the length of my beer line, I slow the speed of the beer output.
Checking two sites, Micromatic and Beverage factory, I see only 5' pre-assembled lengths.
Do you guys buy bulk line and the necessary fittings and assemble yourselves?

Actually I see Beverage factory sells 7' lengths with the coupler fitting attached. May be a good length for me.???

i buy in bulk and use my own fittings (MFL fittings) - usually 50' at a time. it's cheap. like $30-something for 50'. enough for a few 10' taps plus spares for replacement, jumpers from keg to keg, etc.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/100/=8vpevj
5114K18
Beverage Clear Tygon PVC Tubing 3/16" ID, 5/16 OD, 1/16" Wall Thickness

samc said:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/100/=8vpevj
5114K18
Beverage Clear Tygon PVC Tubing 3/16" ID, 5/16 OD, 1/16" Wall Thickness

Click to expand...

Ugh, buck a foot? and super thin walled stretchy Tygon?

I'd at least get this one 5231K953, as it's not stretchy tygon, has thicker walls, and is half the price.

But before I did that, I'd just get this http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_128_380&products_id=1210

With the hose linked in the post above, is it OK to use the 1/4" tail piece? No worries about the transition from the 1/4" tail piece to the 3/16" line?

I'm personally not a fan of getting beer line from McMaster...

You can get beverage line from a huge variety of vendors and McMaster almost always has the highest prices.

I meant the link for Austin Homebrew.
I went ahead and purchased 20' of the 3/16id 7/16od beer line along with two stainless 1/4" tail pieces and two wing nuts.

I think I should be set.

I currently have my beer at 36.9*with the PSI set at ~12.
Should be perfect once I slow these Perlicks down a bit