What do you like Whitbread yeast for?

Alright, I just got a brown ale finished and I used Whitbread yeast. I really enjoy the flavor it gave. I'm trying to figure out what other beers I'd like to make with it. I have done some reasearch and found that IPA, Stout, Blonde and others are good with it.

What do you like with your Whitbread?

Also, has anyone ever done a Porter or an APA with it?

Actually, I have made an APA with whitbread. Just make sure to ferment it at lower temperatures so the yeasty flavor doesn't overwhelm the hops.

Also the famous Centennial Blonde does really well with whitbread.

What do you think about doing a porter with whitbread?

Whitbread makes a fine English brown porter.

flyangler18 said:

Whitbread makes a fine English brown porter.

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Yeah, I'm really wanting to be self sufficient and since I have Whitbread on hand, I think I'd like to re-use it. I'm thinking about making either an APA or Porter. I've been drinking belgians for a while and I'm about ready to go darker!

Ah, but clarify. Which Whitbread yeast? Wyeast 1098 is Whitbread Dry, 1099 is Whitbread and White Labs WLP007 Dry English yeast is Whitbread Dry. From what I understand, Fermentis S 04 is the same as Wyeast 1099, or just "Whitbread".

I've never used 1099/S 04 myself but read that it's less attenuative than 1098. Wonder, does it have more character than 1098? 1098 is too neutral for some Brit beers, IMHO, but is a strong yeast and good for making American styles too....

MattHollingsworth said:

Ah, but clarify. Which Whitbread yeast? Wyeast 1098 is Whitbread Dry, 1099 is Whitbread and White Labs WLP007 Dry English yeast is Whitbread Dry. From what I understand, Fermentis S 04 is the same as Wyeast 1099, or just "Whitbread".

I've never used 1099/S 04 myself but read that it's less attenuative than 1098. Wonder, does it have more character than 1098? 1098 is too neutral for some Brit beers, IMHO, but is a strong yeast and good for making American styles too....

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Whoops, I forgot to add what kinda in my orig post. I'm using (Wyeast Labs #1099) right now. I really want to do a porter, but I've got the hops to do another brown ale, so that would be easier on the wallet.

I'm gonna try a special bitter and an English IPA with the 1099 strand. I'll report back with the results in a few months. I tried the 1968 yeast and I got mixed results with it. We'll see how this one fares, especially for the IPA.

Bitter. It seems a bit violent for porters are stouts for me. For this I like something like just bread.

1098 is the perfect bitter yeast.

Old thread but I use 1099 for anything from robust porter, to stout to ESB.

It pushes the malt profile, ferments, top crops and flocs ok and I just have it on hand for harvesting. A regular in my brewery.

Yeah, I've used it on browns and porters, but i haven't used it on anything other than roasty beers. I think it's the house yeast for rogue, but that may be pacman. I can't remember. Anyways, I like it when I want a yeast that flocs well, but doesn't dry my brew out too much.

J

I just used Wyeast 1099 on a bitter (OG 1.037) that I brewed on Friday afternoon.

Fermented well for 24 hours, smack dab @ 68 degrees, forming a modest but healthy head of krausen at the end of the 24 hr period, and then activity started to decline starting on Day #2. I took a reading right at the end of Day #2 and got 1.016. This morning, approaching the end of Day #3, it seems to have all but stopped. No more krausen, with just a bubble breaking the surface of the beer here and there and struggling/wimpy airlock movement. The temp dropped to 66 after the first day and has been holding there since.

From memory, my recipe went something like:
6.5 lbs maris otter
0.25 lbs flaked barley
0.25 lbs victory
0.25 lbs crystal 70
0.13 lbs crystal 120

That’s only 10% on the specialties and I used a 1L starter on a stir plate and injected O2, so I really don’t expect my yeast to crash on me.

Q: Is what I’m getting a typical response for this strain?

Should I:

Add more yeast?
Rouse what I got?
Warm her up?
Wait?

Judochop said:

I just used Wyeast 1099 on a bitter (OG 1.037) that I brewed on Friday afternoon.

Fermented well for 24 hours, smack dab @ 68 degrees, forming a modest but healthy head of krausen at the end of the 24 hr period, and then activity started to decline starting on Day #2. I took a reading right at the end of Day #2 and got 1.016. This morning, approaching the end of Day #3, it seems to have all but stopped. No more krausen, with just a bubble breaking the surface of the beer here and there and struggling/wimpy airlock movement. The temp dropped to 66 after the first day and has been holding there since.

From memory, my recipe went something like:
6.5 lbs maris otter
0.25 lbs flaked barley
0.25 lbs victory
0.25 lbs crystal 70
0.13 lbs crystal 120

That’s only 10% on the specialties and I used a 1L starter on a stir plate and injected O2, so I really don’t expect my yeast to crash on me.

Q: Is what I’m getting a typical response for this strain?

Should I:

Add more yeast?
Rouse what I got?
Warm her up?
Wait?

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First of, I'd wait a lot longer. You're beer will benefit greatly by sitting a bit longer on the yeast cake. Second, what temperature did you mash at? This is relatively low attenuating yeast to start with. If you mashed high, you'll get a lot of unfermentables and this would cause your beer to finish higher. Of course, you can't fixed your beer at this point if you mashed high. But it's too soon to tell if that's the case. The yeast is very capable of chewing a few more gravity points down without showing visible signs. Leave it at least two weeks in the fermentor and take a measurement afterwards.

mithion said:

what temperature did you mash at?

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Readings across the mash varied between 151 and 152. Must not have preheated my Coleman Xtreme well enough, b/c it was down to 148 after a 75 min mash.

I am expecting (hoping!) for a FG of 1.011 or 1.012.

But if 1099 is typically such an slow chewing introvert, then I will relax and wait it out.

Although predicting final gravity is impossible, from my own experience with this yeast and the recipe and parameters you provide, you should reach that goal of 1.011 to 1.012. I wouldn't worry. It just takes longer sometimes. I've never had a beer finish after 3 days. They always take at least a week with then another week for clearing and conditioning the beer. I currently have an IPA in the primary using this yeast. It took 2 weeks to reach terminal gravity. These things just take time sometimes.

Oh sure. I'm used to waiting at least 5-7 days to reach terminal gravity. I've just never seen a ferment go so visibly quiet so soon. She was on the way down starting at day #2 and usually my ferments start hitting their peak of activity around that time. That got me concerned that something might have been wrong. (This batch was my first shot at batch-sparging, and I was working on 1.5 hours sleep from the night before, so I was open to the possibility I did something very wrong.)

I will wait. Thanks.

mithion said:

Although predicting final gravity is impossible, from my own experience with this yeast and the recipe and parameters you provide, you should reach that goal of 1.011 to 1.012. I wouldn't worry. It just takes longer sometimes. I've never had a beer finish after 3 days. They always take at least a week with then another week for clearing and conditioning the beer. I currently have an IPA in the primary using this yeast. It took 2 weeks to reach terminal gravity. These things just take time sometimes.

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Yeah, I think it's typical for a beer to take a 5-7 days to finish, but I brewed a cream ale the other day and with Nottingham, it was done in 3 days. I actually thought I may of had a stuck fermentation, so I took a reading on the third night after pitching. To my surprise, it was already down to 1.011. It's now been two weeks and it's still at 1.011. I will keg that beer this weekend.

HalfPint said:

Yeah, I think it's typical for a beer to take a 5-7 days to finish, but I brewed a cream ale the other day and with Nottingham, it was done in 3 days. I actually thought I may of had a stuck fermentation, so I took a reading on the third night after pitching. To my surprise, it was already down to 1.011. It's now been two weeks and it's still at 1.011. I will keg that beer this weekend.

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I can't get over how quickly y'all keg the beer. Not that its a bad thing. We all have our ways. It's just that I often drop the trub at week 3 or week 4, add gelatin the next week, wait another week, keg and add gelatin, cool, and then wait a week for conditioning. All said and done it's typically 6 to 8 weeks before drinking.

Perhaps I've been waiting too long between batches.... I am out of beer. Not a drop in the kegs. But I do have 10 gallons coming out for drinking on May 15th and another half-barrel ready for drinking some time near the end of June.




As far as the Whitbred Dry... I was under the impression that it is for ales a littler higher gravity than session beers.

I didn't realize that wlp007 is witbread dry. I love that yeast, it's one of my favorites and I mostly make american styles. It will dry out your beers sometimes you I just mash a little higher than normal if I feel like it.

oldschool said:

I didn't realize that wlp007 is witbread dry. I love that yeast, it's one of my favorites and I mostly make american styles. It will dry out your beers sometimes you I just mash a little higher than normal if I feel like it.

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A good ale style for Whitbred Dry it would seem would be Porters mashed at 156F. The White Labs website doesn't list it as so, but here I am considering the attenuation. As according to Terry Foster, Porters are not meant to be sweet.

I will try this shortly.

007 makes an awesome IPA and amber!

My Bitter (using the Wyeast 1099 Whitbread) ferment is looking rather nasty. The krausen subsided by the end of Day #2, and since then, the surface of the beer has got lots of thin, soapy-looking bubbles periodically popping, but it also has small, pebble-sized crumbs of stuff floating on the surface. The substance looks like dry yeast when you toss it into wort – it’s a brownish-yellowish clay-looking clump, except these are very small, crumb-sized pieces.

I’d say it looks like infection, except I don’t know what infection looks like. I just know it doesn’t look like anything I’ve seen beer do before. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Is that the yeast? There is a small sediment at the bottom of the carboy, but certainly not as big of a cake as I’ve seen in other beers, and this is supposed to be a highly flocculent strain.

Isn't whitbread used in the DFH 90min clone?

Judochop said:

My Bitter (using the Wyeast 1099 Whitbread) ferment is looking rather nasty. The krausen subsided by the end of Day #2, and since then, the surface of the beer has got lots of thin, soapy-looking bubbles periodically popping, but it also has small, pebble-sized crumbs of stuff floating on the surface. The substance looks like dry yeast when you toss it into wort – it’s a brownish-yellowish clay-looking clump, except these are very small, crumb-sized pieces.

I’d say it looks like infection, except I don’t know what infection looks like. I just know it doesn’t look like anything I’ve seen beer do before. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Is that the yeast? There is a small sediment at the bottom of the carboy, but certainly not as big of a cake as I’ve seen in other beers, and this is supposed to be a highly flocculent strain.

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My last two beers have been fermented with this strain and I havn't seen anything like you're describing. However, fermentation is a very complex process so even the same strain can look very differently depending on the multitude of other parameters involved. The soapy looking bubbles could just be due to hops. Certain chemicals coming from hops change the surface tension of bubbles and can cause some pretty gross looking stuff. Let it sit longer in the fermentor. If it's an infection, whatever is happening will grow. If it's not, it will subside.

mithion said:

I'm gonna try a special bitter and an English IPA with the 1099 strand. I'll report back with the results in a few months. I tried the 1968 yeast and I got mixed results with it. We'll see how this one fares, especially for the IPA.

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I tried the bitter a couple of weeks ago and it was amazing. Probably the best beer I've ever made. This yeast is amazingly balanced. It's less malty than the 1968 strain which in my opinion is better for a bitter. It has some nice esters which blend really nicely and do not over power. Hops come out superbly. I think this will become a house strain for me.

Judochop said:

My Bitter (using the Wyeast 1099 Whitbread) ferment is looking rather nasty. The krausen subsided by the end of Day #2, and since then, the surface of the beer has got lots of thin, soapy-looking bubbles periodically popping, but it also has small, pebble-sized crumbs of stuff floating on the surface. The substance looks like dry yeast when you toss it into wort – it’s a brownish-yellowish clay-looking clump, except these are very small, crumb-sized pieces.

I’d say it looks like infection, except I don’t know what infection looks like. I just know it doesn’t look like anything I’ve seen beer do before. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Is that the yeast? There is a small sediment at the bottom of the carboy, but certainly not as big of a cake as I’ve seen in other beers, and this is supposed to be a highly flocculent strain.

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Those are just yeast colonies and your beer is still releasing CO2. Everything is fine.

Ichthy said:

Those are just yeast colonies and your beer is still releasing CO2. Everything is fine.

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Thanks for the assurance. And I concur... everything is fine. I took a reading last night, she's down to 1.011-1.012, just like I'd been shooting for, and man-o-man... DELICIOUS! Bitter with a mouth-coating breadiness and a slightly estery, slightly Willamete nose.

Amazing what some marris otter and an english strain can do together.

It's only been 7 days in primary and the beer tastes ready to go, too. I wasn't picking up many young, green flavors at all. I got the extra keg space, so I think I'll keg it today.

Wishing now I had 2 freezers so I could serve at 2 different temps.

Anyway, I'm all over the place here.

+1 to Wyeast 1099!

I used S04 on a mild that fermented like CRAZY for in 2 days than went slow for 3 more. It floc'ed out perfectly. An excellent yeast. In fact I will be using it next week for my English Pub Ale brew. I love Whitbread yeast. I know some home brewers that have used it on Stouts with great results. I would keep it cool about 65 degs or less so you don't get too fruity.

Sorry about reviving an old thread but there are very few threads about whitbread 1099 yeast so I wanted to comment on another beer I brewed with it. I used it on a Calico Amber Ale clone and was very pleased with the results. Although I haven't had the chance to taste beers fermented with 1968 and 1099 side by side, I'd say 1099 shares a lot of similarities with 1968 pertaning to esters. But as I said earlier, it's bit less malty which makes for a more balanced beer. I get some grape and berry (specifically strawberry) notes with 1099 but I fermented the calico clone on the warmer side (70-75F if I remember). I just got a temp controller recently and haven't had the chance to try it out. Can't wait to see how this strain comes out at 67-68F. This is an underused strain for sure.

I use whitbread 1099 for best bitters.
I really like the bready \toffee flavours it imparts .
I also have never had a brew using this yeast go down lower than say 1015 in fact usually I settle for 1020, knowing that being well hopped, it wont have a cloying sweetness.
Having been raised in the land of Whitbread breweries I can vouch for the likeness to the original . I love it !