A post for fellow beginners based on what I've learned over my first month...

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DSorenson

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I feel like I've been reading many of the same types of questions and just thought I'd put a post out there with some things I've found in my limited and new brewing experience. I'm trying to keep things vague and basic, but please hop on!

1) UV light skunks hopped beverages, only after fermentation begins. Our friends here at HBT have instructed me that riboflaven needs to be present also for skunking which only happens during fermentation. Direct sunlight contains the most, but indirect (depending on reflective surfaces) and fluorescent lights (like those in commercial places) can also expose the beer to enough UV to cause skunking. Covering clear carboys is a good idea. Keeping them in a dark place is the best.

2) Blow off tubes are fantastic. They don't cost much and fit right on your carboy. I've never had to worry about an air lock shooting for the moon, then cleaning and sanitizing it, and putting it back on before anything can get in the carboy.

3) Properly dissolved Iodophor (1/2 tablespoon per gallon for mine) is a no rinse sanitizer. As strong as it smells, I cannot taste it in my beer and I know my bottles are good to go when bottling.

4) Extracts do not require a full boil, as a full boil can darken it and subtly change it's flavors. By full boil I am referring to the length of time, though a full volume of water boil is not required either (It's not the best, but you can top off the primary with water). Boiling it the full time is just an option you have. I've added my extract late in the boil (last 15 mins) and found a remarkable change in finished color in my beer. It was much lighter.

5) Invest in a hydrometer and wine thief! They do not cost much, and I'm sure you'd hate to be the guy who can't tell when his beer is done fermenting. There are clues for active fermentation, but without the proper measuring tool (that would be the hydrometer) there's no way of knowing for sure. (note: hydrometers don't care if there are particles in the wort floating around, they only read the density of the dissolved material)

6) Mistakes have happened in almost every brew I've ever made, including 2 batches of beer, 3 batches of cider, and 6 batches of wine. Many of them were caused by being impatient, some of them were just honest mistakes. All of them still turned out better than Bud/Coors or night train. One of them was a memorable raspberry wine I'll never forget.

7) I'm sure we've all probably read beer can be brewed in a month. 2 weeks to ferment, 2 weeks to bottle condition. Turns out it's more like it should be AT LEAST SIX WEEKS: 3 for fermenting and clearing, 3 for bottle conditioning. Some brewers even insist on at least an additional week for letting the bottles chill in a fridge before serving (for clearing and carbonation purposes). I speak from experience when impatience drove me to bottle too soon (just over two weeks) and now I'll be thinking about all the excess yeast that will be at the bottom of all my finished bottles. Also, take two specific gravity readings a few days a part at the end to make sure the specific gravity is the same and it has terminated fermenting. Who really wants to deal with bottle explosions?

8) I've learned the hard way not to cut corners. If you see some black bits on the walls of the 6 gallon better bottle that you haven't used in 4 years, it's probably not good. Vinegar and vodka will not kill it. If it's visible and in there it will spoil your brew. It was heart breaking dumping a 6 gallon cider batch with a bacterial infection. $36 dollars and 4 months down the drain. Filling it up with water, putting 5/8 cup of unscented oxyclean in there and letting it sit for a few days gets it out no problem. rinse well and you're good to go.

9) I'll make this my last, though there are more. A new homebrewer doesn't need to worry so much. Do your best cleaning your equipment without going nuts, sanitize everything that contacts your beer as best you can and rest easy. My favorite part of my homebrew book was the part that mentioned how beer was brewed for thousands of years without even understanding the importance of sanitation, or even what yeast was.

Cheers to HBT! :mug:
 
Very succint and filled with great , now probably common sense eh, tips. Should be 9 things for sane hb starters. great job and good lookin out, really enhances the site/community
 
About the only thing I'd add is fridge time to that 6 weeks. at least a week to settle any chill haze & get decent carbonation & head. Two weeks for thicker head,& fine bubbled carbonation. lately I've even gotten a head when pouring like a nitro tap with a bubble tornado to folow. Not sure how?...good job anyway! :mug:
 
Nice write up. One minor point:

"4) Extracts do not require a full boil..."

Maybe I'm alone here, but to me "full boil" means full volume, not full length. Whatever it means to anybody, it would be good to clarify. Maybe just change "full boil" to "full length boil."

Other than that, it looks great. And I agree with everything. Nice work.
 
freisste said:
Nice write up. One minor point:

"4) Extracts do not require a full boil..."

Maybe I'm alone here, but to me "full boil" means full volume, not full length. Whatever it means to anybody, it would be good to clarify. Maybe just change "full boil" to "full length boil."

Other than that, it looks great. And I agree with everything. Nice work.

+1 to this.
 
Wow everyone... thank you for your support of my post! I sincerely appreciate how everyone here is dedicated to brewing good beer and helping others achieve the same end. I'm just trying to contribute my small piece for others. Much of it is due to you out there on HBT in the first place.

Thanks for those who had edits to throw in. I will makes changes once I figure out how to on my tablet.

Cheers again to HBT!
 
Nice write up. One minor point:

"4) Extracts do not require a full boil..."

Maybe I'm alone here, but to me "full boil" means full volume, not full length. Whatever it means to anybody, it would be good to clarify. Maybe just change "full boil" to "full length boil."

Other than that, it looks great. And I agree with everything. Nice work.

Agree to this, but I'll add for clarity that bittering hops require a 60 minute boil to convert alpha-acids to iso-alpha-acids (depending on your recipe). So you can add the extract later to reduce the caramelization (giving it a lighter color), you still want the 60 minute boil for the bittering hops.

And one more thing... always have a homebrew ready to drink when you're brewing your next homebrew. If it's your first, invite over somebody who has homebrew to help :) :mug:
 
Alright there gents... corrections have been made, for better or worse. Thanks again for all the feed back! :)
 
1) UV light skunks hopped beverages, even before fermentation begins. Direct sunlight contains the most, but indirect (depending on reflective surfaces) and fluorescent lights (like those in commercial places) can also expose the beer to enough UV to cause skunking. Covering clear carboys is a good idea. Keeping them in a dark place is the best.

I'm not sure this is correct. I swear I've read here that the skunking reactions need alcohol to occur. There are plenty of brewers (including myself) that brew outside in full sunlight and don't have issues. It's only after pitching that you need to avoid the sun/UV light.

[edit] I've googled it, and supposedly riboflavin needs to be present for skunking to occur, and it's only during fermentation that riboflavin is produced.
 
Nice points for beginners and some experienced brewers. I'm not in the iodophor camp myself and would recommend that new brewers use StarSan instead but that's a preference thing.

Also, pfgonzo is right in what he says that you only need to worry about your beverage getting light-struck (a more correct term for "skunking") once fermentation is occurring.
 
In regards to UV problems, how much worry is having a normal plastic bucket type fermenter in a room with fluorescent lights?
 
Great write-up. I just finished my first batch, and I felt like an idiot trying to keep all of the steps straight and remember all of the tips that I've learned on this forum. Once I started sanitizing everything I was walking around like a doctor who had just scrubbed in. I'm sure I'll get more relaxed as I figure out a routine, but I don't want to get so relaxed that I do something stupid and ruin a batch. I'm thinking about creating a list that occurs in chronological order for brew day/bottling day etc. so that I don't forget any steps. Actually, I'm sure someone has already done this. Anyone know of one? It could be tweaked for your specific recipe, but maybe someone has an outline or something.

Now I'm not sure if that actually sounds like a stupid newbie suggestion. Disregard if it's stupid...if it's not stupid then has anyone seen one? :eek:

I just reread that...it's called the instructions, huh? :smack:
 
In regards to UV problems, how much worry is having a normal plastic bucket type fermenter in a room with fluorescent lights?

My personal thought is you should be okay. Fluorescent lights produce greatly reduced UV, and provided the plastic is opaque and reasonably thick, I feel like that will not be an issue.
 
My personal thought is you should be okay. Fluorescent lights produce greatly reduced UV, and provided the plastic is opaque and reasonably thick, I feel like that will not be an issue.

Uh, fluorescent lights produce the most UV.
 
In regards to UV problems, how much worry is having a normal plastic bucket type fermenter in a room with fluorescent lights?

If you had a giant, 6-foot tall version of that bucket, and you turned it upside-down and stood inside of it, on the beach on a bright, sunny day, how long would it take for you to get a sunburn? Probably never, right?

I don't think UV contamination from flourescent lights is a real concern with those buckets. Oxidation from excessive head space and sloppy racking is a far bigger threat, in my opinion.
 
kombat said:
If you had a giant, 6-foot tall version of that bucket, and you turned it upside-down and stood inside of it, on the beach on a bright, sunny day, how long would it take for you to get a sunburn? Probably never, right?

I don't think UV contamination from flourescent lights is a real concern with those buckets. Oxidation from excessive head space and sloppy racking is a far bigger threat, in my opinion.

Agreed +1 to this ...... I wouldn't worry to much about it.... Clear glass or a better bottle maybe a different story but those buckets are pretty solid when it comes to light penetration never mind the actual absorption of the Uv rays... For example ever see someone that wears sunglasses all summer long then eventually they have tan lines every wear but where the glasses were ? Or for that matter tan lines in general ? It's not only light itself that needs to penetrate but specifically uv a,b,or c.
 
Uh, fluorescent lights produce the most UV.

More compared to sunlight? Not only have I read that fluorescent lights take significantly longer before a beer becomes light-struck, I've also read that fluorescent lights have a UV barrier on them to prevent additional UV from being released.

Anyone else have a thought on this? I'm off to find sources.
 
This is also why regular flourecent tubes aren't quite as good for plants' growth as the "grow tubes" sold for plant growth for example. They put out more of what's bad for beer. Just not as much as real sunlight. You need the high output HFO twists for that.
 
This is also why regular flourecent tubes aren't quite as good for plants' growth as the "grow tubes" sold for plant growth for example. They put out more of what's bad for beer. Just not as much as real sunlight. You need the high output HFO twists for that.

Growing a few botanical specimens in your closet, are we Uniondr? :p haha

Excellent point though. Nothing like the good ol' common sense approach!
 
Growing a few botanical specimens in your closet, are we Uniondr? :p haha

Excellent point though. Nothing like the good ol' common sense approach!

Been a very long time ago. :drunk: I had a *****Grower's guide back in the 70's that discussed all that stuff. Mmmmm,lightnin dust.....:drunk:
Nowadays,it's HB craft beer,but idk...energy use might be the same?...:D
But yeah,common sense & patience go a long way in this hobby. And ya don't have to worry about who's at the door,or the breakdowns on shizz creak on the way to bumb F' Egypt!...
 
Been a very long time ago. :drunk: I had a *****Grower's guide back in the 70's that discussed all that stuff. Mmmmm,lightnin dust.....:drunk:
Nowadays,it's HB craft beer,but idk...energy use might be the same?...:D
But yeah,common sense & patience go a long way in this hobby. And ya don't have to worry about who's at the door,or the breakdowns on shizz creak on the way to bumb F' Egypt!...

Hahahahaha, that cracked me up. What a character.
 
I lived all that blue collar comedy stuff. not sure exactly what that means,but hey. :D
Anyway,I cover my fermenters with dark tee shirts,or the black velvet smoking jacket the bloody dog chewed up. Keeps the light out just fine. Even though we do use those flourecent twist bulb replacements in the lamps. Like 14 watts usage for 60 watts of light.
 
My personal thought is you should be okay. Fluorescent lights produce greatly reduced UV, and provided the plastic is opaque and reasonably thick, I feel like that will not be an issue.

Uh, fluorescent lights produce the most UV.

Okay, here's just a source I found in a 5 minute google search. Fluorescent lights produce a significantly reduced amount of UV radiation from sunlight. Seven hours of exposure is the equivalent to 1 minute of sun exposure.

http://www.ehow.com/about_6048255_fluorescent-light-uv-rating_.html

Your initial post made it sound like you were comparing fluorescents favorably to other typical lightbulbs (incandescent and LED) - especially since that was clearly the context in which the OP was referring to them.

But of course typical fluorescent bulbs don't put out as much UV light to a given surface area ("illuminance", measured in lux, IIRC) as sunlight does, and in no way was I even remotely implying that - that would be an absolutely ridiculous claim, and one easily debunked by the fact that people aren't regularly getting tans and sunburns in their homes.

So the point was merely that, given a choice of conventional indoor lighting, fluorescent bulbs are the worst option for exposing your beer to, and I would never recommend them for where the beer would sit under them for hours, days, or even longer, especially for uses such as in ferm chambers or cellars. LEDs would be absolutely optimal, especially since many of them produce absolutely NO light in the UV band.

Zero.

Zero point zero zero.

...repeating, of course.

But good LEDs tend to be expensive, so it'd be pretty unreasonable to expect everyone to use them. As such, incandescents are also a good choice for many, because they only output a small fraction of the UV light that fluorescent bulbs do.

But again, even fluorescent bulbs pale in comparison to sunlight in this re. I'm not sure how - or why - you managed to assume I was making such a preposterous claim.
 
Your initial post made it sound like you were comparing fluorescents favorably to other typical lightbulbs (incandescent and LED) - especially since that was clearly the context in which the OP was referring to them.

But again, even fluorescent bulbs pale in comparison to sunlight in this re. I'm not sure how - or why - you managed to assume I was making such a preposterous claim.

Glad that's cleared up! Thanks for checking back to post what you really intended. You are definitely correct that fluorescent bulbs produce the most UV of any bulb. The tanning bit cracked me up.
 
Excellent write-up. Really wish I had all this info for my first 2 or 3 brews.

A couple other things that some brand new brewers might be hesitant of is yeast starters and blow-offs. I have used starters on my last two brews, a slighlty modified Midwest Supplies Lemon Coriander Weiss and FattyLivers Chimay Blue Extract clone. l will use them for every brew going forward, time allowing, seems as though I got better attenuation and faster starts(who would think) by using them.

I hesitated because I didn't have a flask and didn't want or see the need to invest in one. Use a very clean(oxyclean soaked) and sanitized milk jug, depending on starter size a 22oz or 750ml bottle will do, a wine bottle, or something similar. Don't feel you have to use a flask and a stir plate, from my research, they will make a better starter but it can be done without them.

For a blowoff, a 3 piece airlock and .5 in tube have worked for me. Be sure to have some hot "sanitized" water to get the tube off the airlock after the blowoff.
 
bolus14 said:
Excellent write-up. Really wish I had all this info for my first 2 or 3 brews.

A couple other things that some brand new brewers might be hesitant of is yeast starters and blow-offs. I have used starters on my last two brews, a slighlty modified Midwest Supplies Lemon Coriander Weiss and FattyLivers Chimay Blue Extract clone. l will use them for every brew going forward, time allowing, seems as though I got better attenuation and faster starts(who would think) by using them.

I hesitated because I didn't have a flask and didn't want or see the need to invest in one. Use a very clean(oxyclean soaked) and sanitized milk jug, depending on starter size a 22oz or 750ml bottle will do, a wine bottle, or something similar. Don't feel you have to use a flask and a stir plate, from my research, they will make a better starter but it can be done without them.

For a blowoff, a 3 piece airlock and .5 in tube have worked for me. Be sure to have some hot "sanitized" water to get the tube off the airlock after the blowoff.

This is also good advice though I'm not 100% on using a milk jug no matter how much you clean it..... All I keep hearing in my head is lactobacillus !!!! Not worth the risk but, beer bottle ,wine bottle etc is all good for a starter.

+++1 to the blow off recommendation it should look something like. Attached to the center post of a 3 piece airlock.

image-728269793.jpg
 

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