AG Clarity

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

digdan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2005
Messages
496
Reaction score
7
Location
Pasadena, CA
My local Home Brew Shop told me that Clarity with AG is determined by the conversion. I would think it was determined by the boil. I would like your two cents;).
 
Why would you think it was from the boil. I would think it would be almost exclusively from the mash. As I understand it, haze come from protein that makes it into the wort during the mash. There are ways to reduce this. This is why some people do protein rests. However I think some people look to increase the protein in their wort in order to increase head retention. I'm fairly certian the reason that hefeweissens have good head retention, but alot of protein haze is because wheat husks (which contain much of the protein) are hard to separate from the grain (which is used to produce fermentable sugars). Barley on the other hand is much more easy to deal with, because the protein rich husk is not very soluble, making it much easier for the brewer to obtain fermentable sugars, without all of the unwanted proteins. This may be entirely wrong, but this is how I understand it. I would appreciate some critiques on this . Thanks alot.
 
The boil does affect this. Hot break and cold break are both formed in the kettle (unless you have a counter flow chiller, then its just outside...). My understanding is the rate of cool down (faster is better) aids in causing the coagulation of protiens (cold break) which can easily be left behind in the pot. The hot break is aided by... someone help me here... maybe a roaring boil? Length of boil? not sure on that one.
 
The protein rest converts longer aminoacid chains into smaller pieces. These smaller pieces become soluble and are essential for head retention and yeast nutrition. For well modified malts, most of this has already been done by the maltster. I don't believe however, that the proteins come from the husks. To my knowledge they are part of the endosperm.

Another source of haze could be unconverted starch that makes it into the wort. But since we all mash to "conversion complete", this should not be a problem for clarity.

The hot break is also affected by the PH of the wort. I'm not exactly sure which proteins coagulate during the hot break, I assume that the longer chained proteins coagulate since the shorter ones may not be able to coagulate due to their shortness.

Does anybody know exactly which class of proteins forms the chill haze?

Kai
 
There are several different causes/meanings of "clarity". Mostly, leaving it in secondary will allow LOTS of turbidity to settle out. Most proteins are heavier than water, and will sink. Some trubiditry is caused by long chain carbohydrates- "unfermentable starches". Like pectin, from fruits, causes 'cold haze' and can be lessened with pectinase. And "ice filtering" will remove this, if the beer is filtered at near freezing temps. Adding a tad of dark roasted malt helps here too. Heat speeds up lots of chemical reactions, so some chains get broken, some lengthened during the boil.

Lot's of causes for lack of clarity, everybody is right...
 
My understanding: the chill haze most people complain about that no amount of conditioning will get rid of is caused by starch. This starch would be a result of lautering before conversion was complete. This is totally inherent of the mash.

A good, vigorous boil and subsequent chilling will coagulate and settle out proteins that could also cause haze in the finished product. The difference here is that by cold conditioning you can cause this protein haze to develop and precipitate to the bottom of the bottle (or secondary) leaving a clear beverage.

That's my story and I'm sticking with it until e-smacked by a superior force!
 
You'll note that ENZECO® CHILLPROOF uses papain, which is an enzyme that breaks down protein. Consider yourself smacked.:mug:

"A stable, functional enzyme preparation, totally soluble in water, formulated for the brewing industry to prevent storage "chill haze". Produced from selected, purified grades of papain."
 
david_42 said:
You'll note that ENZECO® CHILLPROOF uses papain, which is an enzyme that breaks down protein. Consider yourself smacked.:mug:

"A stable, functional enzyme preparation, totally soluble in water, formulated for the brewing industry to prevent storage "chill haze". Produced from selected, purified grades of papain."
Unless I'm missing something I don't see how that affects starch :confused:
 
Baron von BeeGee said:
My understanding: the chill haze most people complain about that no amount of conditioning will get rid of is caused by starch. This starch would be a result of lautering before conversion was complete. This is totally inherent of the mash.

I never thought of this. But I do mash to conversion and see chill haze in my beers. But then again they were all extract brews and I have to chill one of my AG batches to see if there is actually a difference.

So starch starts for fall out of solution when it gets cold?

david_42 said:
You'll note that ENZECO® CHILLPROOF uses papain, which is an enzyme that breaks down protein.

"A stable, functional enzyme preparation, totally soluble in water, formulated for the brewing industry to prevent storage "chill haze". Produced from selected, purified grades of papain."

This could be dargerous, if it breaks down to much of the protein since a lot of the body of the beer is due to proteins in the beer. But body is not something Bud and Co want in their beers anyway ;).

Kai

Kai
 
Kaiser said:
So starch starts for fall out of solution when it gets cold?
My understanding is that starch won't fall out of solution, but protein-based haze will. I believe once you get starch haze there isn't much in the average homebrewer's arsenal that will get rid of it. I imagine filtering would.
 
Baron von BeeGee said:
My understanding is that starch won't fall out of solution, but protein-based haze will. I believe once you get starch haze there isn't much in the average homebrewer's arsenal that will get rid of it. I imagine filtering would.

Should starch haze apear/disapear if the temp of the beer is changed. I just want to make sure that what I'm seeing in my beers, is truly chill haze.

Kai
 
I believe starch haze may be reduced by warming the beer, but should still be apparent. One easy way to tell if your beer is afflicted with starch haze is to sacrifice an ounce or two to an iodine test.
 
Baron von BeeGee said:
I believe starch haze may be reduced by warming the beer, but should still be apparent. One easy way to tell if your beer is afflicted with starch haze is to sacrifice an ounce or two to an iodine test.

Thanks,

I now believe that it is only chill haze since all my beers have been clear when at a serving temp of about 48*F

Kai
 
Baron von BeeGee said:
Nobody every accused the Canadians of not being a practical people! Sounds like some of my cousin-in-law's "newfie ingenuity"!
I didn't think you were a Newf, Cheyco. You know what we say (Newfies) If you can't dazzle them with brilliance then baffle them with bulls**t. But in any case Cheyco is right. Unless we are entering a brew in a competition then clarity takes second place over taste.:mug:
 
boo boo said:
I didn't think you were a Newf, Cheyco. You know what we say (Newfies) If you can't dazzle them with brilliance then baffle them with bulls**t. But in any case Cheyco is right. Unless we are entering a brew in a competition then clarity takes second place over taste.:mug:
:D Cheyco's almost as far from a Newfie as it gets (Alberta). At least that's where he lives now...
 
Baron von BeeGee said:
My understanding: the chill haze most people complain about that no amount of conditioning will get rid of is caused by starch. This starch would be a result of lautering before conversion was complete. This is totally inherent of the mash.

A good, vigorous boil and subsequent chilling will coagulate and settle out proteins that could also cause haze in the finished product. The difference here is that by cold conditioning you can cause this protein haze to develop and precipitate to the bottom of the bottle (or secondary) leaving a clear beverage.

That's my story and I'm sticking with it until e-smacked by a superior force!
I have read that starch haze is usually permanent, while chill haze is made up of proteins that form a complex with some other (polyphenols among them) things at low temperatures. The complex is insoluble and forms a coloidal haze that won't settle (stable coloid). So starch haze is mainly proteic in origin...

but what kind of proteins forms it... I've no idea
 
I always have crystal clear beer ar room temp.but once I put them into the fridge I get a chill haze. This is true with extract beer and all grain. You never see this with Millers, Bubweiser etc. I would think that filtering at room temp would do no good sice the proteins are in solution and wouldn't filter out. Do the pros chill the beer down until they get a haze and then filter it out or is there a better way to avoid chill haze? Is there anyone out there that dosen't get chill haze?

David
 
Many of us don't get chill haze. To avoid it, you need to avoid the proteins that cause it. This can be done in a # of ways, some of which are:
- Good hot break via a rapid and vigorous boil.
- Kettle finings (Irish moss, whirlfloc, etc).
- Good cold break via chiller of some type.
- Extended aging period (secondary, several weeks or more). Cooler temperatures will help precipitate the haze such that it can settle in the secondary.
- Chilling bottles for an aging period such that haze forms and precipitates (same as above, but in the bottle instead of fermenter).

With enough patience I can get crystal clear beer, but since it's primarily aesthetic I don't let it stop me from killing a few.
 
Thanks Baron,

I've never done any of the things you've suggested. I've always taken chill haze for granted. I'm going to take some of beer that I've made and put them in the fridge for several weeks and see if the haze precipites out. I'll try some your other suggestions on my next all grain batch. The beer still tastes pretty good even if it isa little cloudy. I'm trying to make it like a pro maybe someday I'll even try to figure out can it in 12 oz cans.

Thanks again
 
Baron von BeeGee said:
Many of us don't get chill haze. To avoid it, you need to avoid the proteins that cause it. This can be done in a # of ways, some of which are:
- Good hot break via a rapid and vigorous boil.
- Kettle finings (Irish moss, whirlfloc, etc).
- Good cold break via chiller of some type.
- Extended aging period (secondary, several weeks or more). Cooler temperatures will help precipitate the haze such that it can settle in the secondary.
- Chilling bottles for an aging period such that haze forms and precipitates (same as above, but in the bottle instead of fermenter).

In addition to the above, chill haze can be caused by improper doughing in of the mash. If a lot of flour due to a poor crush is allowed to be mashed improperly ( dough balls) then what happens is unconverted starch is left in the mash and when it comes time to sparge it gets washed into the boil kettle and ends up as chill haze in the finished brew.
 
Baron von BeeGee said:
Many of us don't get chill haze. To avoid it, you need to avoid the proteins that cause it. This can be done in a # of ways, some of which are:
- Good hot break via a rapid and vigorous boil.
- Kettle finings (Irish moss, whirlfloc, etc).
- Good cold break via chiller of some type.
- Extended aging period (secondary, several weeks or more). Cooler temperatures will help precipitate the haze such that it can settle in the secondary.
- Chilling bottles for an aging period such that haze forms and precipitates (same as above, but in the bottle instead of fermenter).

With enough patience I can get crystal clear beer, but since it's primarily aesthetic I don't let it stop me from killing a few.

"Crash cooling" your primary at 40f for a few days before racking seems to be pretty effective. I just did it for the first time and it caused a LOT of haze to precipitate out. I've made it part of my regular routine.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top