DieterVonBrauhaus
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Wont this give a chance towards infection, especially with the moisture or condensation formed around the normal temp "lid or foil" that you would put on a hot kettle?
Using whirlfloc and chilling wort post boil.
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Wont this give a chance towards infection, especially with the moisture or condensation formed around the normal temp "lid or foil" that you would put on a hot kettle?
Not likely. The condensation forms from the steam that already bacteria/germ free.
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BansheeRider
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So I just got an email from AHS advertising "clarity ferm". Apparently this will prevent chill haze. The problem is you have to add the whole vial to one batch before pitching the yeast. At almost $3 a vial I'm not sure if it's worth it. Thoughts???
Here's the link: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produ...tact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Newsletter
Here's the link: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produ...tact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Newsletter
Chill Haze fixes: Polyclar in fermenter let sit for say a week then rack to keg etc.
Filtering: Drop temp as low as possible, colder the better and filter through a .5 micron or smaller (.3 or .25 micron) filter. .5 shouldn't effect flavor much. Dryhopped beers probably will lose aroma though.
There's another fining called biofine that I might order. I forgot to last hop order. beerandwinefilter.com carries it.
I really don't care if my beer has chill haze unless it's a Pilsner since I prefer the aesthetic of a clear pils. I usually just filter through a 1 micron absolute pleated cartridge filter to remove yeast.
Due to space issues I typically keg beers after about 10 days and then cold store them in the garage in the winter or in the fridge in the summer and filter keg to keg.
A lot of breweries wait till fermentation is complete, dump the yeast (conicals) then cold crash to -2c for 3 weeks before bottling/kegging. I have seen beer filtered and bottled 10 days after yeast pitch. That surprised me at the time.
Oh, I should add that there is more than one kind of polyclar. There's a kind that goes into the kettle (can't remember what it is for) And there is one is neg charged and one is positive charged. (Both go into fermenter after fermentation is complete). I think the one for chill haze is called polyclar VT.
Filtering: Drop temp as low as possible, colder the better and filter through a .5 micron or smaller (.3 or .25 micron) filter. .5 shouldn't effect flavor much. Dryhopped beers probably will lose aroma though.
There's another fining called biofine that I might order. I forgot to last hop order. beerandwinefilter.com carries it.
I really don't care if my beer has chill haze unless it's a Pilsner since I prefer the aesthetic of a clear pils. I usually just filter through a 1 micron absolute pleated cartridge filter to remove yeast.
Due to space issues I typically keg beers after about 10 days and then cold store them in the garage in the winter or in the fridge in the summer and filter keg to keg.
A lot of breweries wait till fermentation is complete, dump the yeast (conicals) then cold crash to -2c for 3 weeks before bottling/kegging. I have seen beer filtered and bottled 10 days after yeast pitch. That surprised me at the time.
Oh, I should add that there is more than one kind of polyclar. There's a kind that goes into the kettle (can't remember what it is for) And there is one is neg charged and one is positive charged. (Both go into fermenter after fermentation is complete). I think the one for chill haze is called polyclar VT.
I've found that Fivestar super moss gets rid of all the chill haze I was getting from my pm batches. When I top off the chilled wort i the fermenter,it helps settle out cold break as well.
Absolutely.
You can (and should) stir it quite a bit while chilling. Then simply cover the kettle (with sanitized lid or aluminum foil) after chilling is complete and leave it be for 15-20 minutes. This allows a great deal of the gunk, including the proteins that Whirlfloc helps make heavier, time to settle to the bottom.
Not if you spray your lid/foil with StarSan. You're going to have to keep the lid off so that you can stir while chilling. The lid/foil is for after the wort has chilled.
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BansheeRider
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Every beer I've made this far has been clear of chill haze after about a week in the fridge. Letting the wort settle after chilling has been the key.
BansheeRider said:
Meh. I never let it settle. Mine haze up at first but are crystal clear with 1 week of cold conditioning. All that break material is gonna drop out in the fermentor anyway, so I guess it's really about if you care about that stuff going into your fermentation or not.
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BansheeRider
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Having the means to cold crash your fermenter will result in clearer beer going into your bottles or keg. I don't have the equipment to do that, so letting the break material settle in the kettle helps a lot.
BansheeRider said:
I don't cold crash either. Or fine, or filter. Not saying its bad to do that or trying to deride your process. Just saying whirfloc alone does the trick for me and I don't seem to need any extra steps.
If you have enough beer in thecpipeline then uouvreally do t need to do anything but age. When you dont.. out come the filters/finings etc. Lol
Whirlfloc and cold crashing accomplish two different things on the road to the same goal. One doesn't take the place of the other.
Whirlfloc helps to clump proteins and other small particulates in the boil into bigger particles that will settle to the bottom. The result is more clear wort and less gunk transferred to the bucket.
Post-ferment cold crashing is done primarily to encourage more yeast to drop out of suspension and to firm up the yeast trub layer in the bottom of the fermenter so that it's harder to disturb when moving the bucket/carboy and siphoning. The benefits are more clear beer and less yeast trub in bottle-conditioned beers.
