My tap water is 52 degrees on the cold side and 150 degrees on the hot side. I put 6 gallons of 52 degree water in my pot to see if I can do. A full boil on the stove top. At 60 mins I was at 52 degrees. At 50 mins I was at 64 degrees at 40 mins I was at 82 degrees. At 30 right now and the temp is 100 degrees.
In the middle of a boil test.
- Thread starter OHIOSTEVE
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OHIOSTEVE
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115 degrees at 20 minutes(started a timer at 60 mins) may have to abort however. Pot has a rim all around the b ottom that surrounds the burner completely it sets over the burner trapping all of the heat in. I think I am warping the stove top!!!
mordantly
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if its a glass top, beware. somebody on here cracked theirs. you should always use the boiler water. it's half way to boiling and waiting.. i can get 10 gallons to boil in about 30 minutes.
OHIOSTEVE
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Nah its an old coil burner stove. I was dumb to start with cold water. No idea why I did that. Anyway gently stirring got me ALMOST to 150 in an hour. BIG waste of time if I wasn,t sampling prior brews lol.
Martin2D
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Don't use hot water because hot water heaters often have mineral buildups in them that can cause off flavors later.
Hey Steve, I performed a similar experiment a couple of weeks ago. I started with 6.5 gallons of 64 degree water and achieved a boil in 1 hr 40min. My stove is equipped with a 12,500 btu "Power Burner". From what have read the norm for burner is 9,500 to 10,000 btu's.
One suggestion that I have not tried yet is wrapping the bottom of the pot with 6-8 layers of aluminum foil. It's applied it in such a way that it went down past the bottom of the pot but allowed enough of a gap between the pot and the stove top to allow air to get in and keep from starving the flame. Someone else posted that this decreased their time to achieve a full boil. I'm not sure how this would work on an electric range but it may be worth a shot. Good luck hope it works out for you.
One suggestion that I have not tried yet is wrapping the bottom of the pot with 6-8 layers of aluminum foil. It's applied it in such a way that it went down past the bottom of the pot but allowed enough of a gap between the pot and the stove top to allow air to get in and keep from starving the flame. Someone else posted that this decreased their time to achieve a full boil. I'm not sure how this would work on an electric range but it may be worth a shot. Good luck hope it works out for you.
mordantly
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my boiler is a month old. but when i flush it every month, i never notice any flavor impacts. what would it taste like?
OHIOSTEVE
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Mine would be bad. My water is so hard I wear a helmet in the shower to avoid concussions.
mordantly
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damn thats painful!
OHIOSTEVE
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yep...I gave up...emptied the pot and looked at the burner marks on the bottom. The bottom is bowl shaped a LITTLE bit. I did not think it was enough to interfere with burner contact but it is...only the very center of the pan is contacting the burner...It will work fine on a turkey burner, but back to the drawing board for a stove top full boil pot. Makes me angry too, I just payed to have a ball valve welded into it and my keggle.
Sedge
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Have you thought about splitting your wort into two kettles? I do this to do full boil all grain on the stove. I do 5 gallon batches, starting with 7 gallons of wort split between a 6 gallon pot and a smaller vessel. I do 5 gallons in the big pot, and 2 in the other. I only hop the larger kettle. When there is space in the larger kettle, I'll add back as much of the small kettle's wort that I can.
It's a little ghetto but its working.
It's a little ghetto but its working.
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I would think if he was getting any flame, he'd want to starve it of air asap on his electric stove top
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