Brutus Control Panel Build

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SAMPLER

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To start off, I apologize if this is posted in the wrong forum but based on the amount of electrical questions and technicalities I figured it would be appropriate.

I'm in the process of building a Brutus 10 clone and will include a heating element in the HLT to maintain water temp, mash temp as well as to sparge with. I am coming from a success 2 tier system with little electronics but want the ability to monitor temp in both the HLT and Mash for more consistent brew sessions. Over the years I had been challenged with fluctuation in temp creating variable uncontrollable with each session. Nothing that has effected my person taste for each batch but being able to duplicate a batch was always difficult.

I after debate and extra thought I am going to be running a dedicated 20amp line just for the brew stand. This will obviously be a single 120v 20 amp GFI breaker. I'm not looking for full electric brewing just enough for a single low-density 2000W 120v element. I will be propane as my main fuel source which is why I should be fine with supplementing with the electric element to maintain temp.

I have a 12x12 box and a list of items I have already purchased. I hope all is in line with what I need and will create a list of items not yet purchased.

Here is a general idea of what I am looking for set up.

1 PID for HLT (HERMS) temp
1 PID for MASH w/element
1 Auber Timer
1 Main on/off switch
1 Buzzer Alarm for both PID and Timer
2 on/off switches for dual pumps

Here is a more specific list of those parts I have ordered.

(Qty: 2) SYL-2352 PID temperature controller, 1/16 DIN size, SSR output, 85-264VAC supply
(Qty: 1) Auber ASL-51 timer
(Qty: 5) 2 position maintained selector switch, 1 normally open (NO) contactor
(Qty:1) 2 position maintained selector switch with key, 1 normally open (NO) contactor
(Qty: 1) 22mm PUSH BUTTON RED MOMENTARY 1NO/1NC
(Qty: 1) 40A SSR Solid State Relay
(Qty: 1) Heat Sink DC3-32V Control AC24-480V
(Qty: 2) 8 position terminal strip, 20 amp
(Qty: 1) 22mm buzzer, 115-120V AC/DC
(Qty: 3) Blue 22mm LED pilot light, 100-120V AC/DC (power alarm indicator for PID and Timer)
(Qty: 1) Red 22mm LED pilot light, 100-120V AC/DC (alarm indicator)
(Qty: 2) Green 22mm LED pilot light, 100-120V AC/DC (pump indicator)
(Qty: 1) Yellow 22mm LED pilot light, 220V-240V AC/DC (Heating Element "on")

I'm hoping that there is an electric diagram from PJ out there that will help me get things in line.

Please send any and all comments and suggestions my way. The building will beginning once all parts arrive.

Cheers
 
Here is a shot at what I am looking to create for a panel layout.

e2173074-a697-43a8-927a-6caa15996c44_zps782f2d2a.jpg
 
Christmas is coming early tomorrow. Fedex has scheduled for 2 packages for delivery.
Any thoughts or suggestion for start the build??
 
Unable to locate a diagram for the set up I am planning to build. Can anyone recommend a program used to sketch out said diagrams?

I'm looking for a 2 PID, 1 Timer, 2 pumps, 1 buzzer and reset button and 1 2000W element powered on 110v 20amp. On/off switches and indicator lights for each unit. In case there were any volunteers to help.

First boxes of goodies arrived today. More switches and lights tomorrow.
 
No suggestions on which program to use for drawing out my control box wiring? I just want to make a drawing to get the boards approval before setting up the build.

Another box of goodies showed up today.
 
I would look and see if there is a 220 build that was all the stuff you want and them remove the extra hot line. You can do that in paint I you need to. I know I have seen a 220 build that uses all those components except of course the 110 elements

This thread is close, but it doesn't have the timer switches https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/hop-rehab-e-herms-build-374500/index2.html

Like I said, cut out one hot line and change all plugs to 110 versions and it should get you close. You might be able to get to of the contractors as well and just use 20 amp switches
 
Making Progress. Here is the cover with the lights, switches and PID almost in stalled. I order labels today as well. So far so good.

IMG_20130319_200750_462_zps5cfd667f.jpg


Comments welcomes
 
If you send PJ a list of parts you have and what you want he will draw a schematic for you usually. I have never seen him fail to help anybody when they ask for his help. He is a stand up fellow and a huge asset to this forum with his electrical jnowledge. Worth asking anyway.

Wheelchair Bob
 
any
Do you plan on using labels? It looks like it might be real snug above the PIDs/timer if you do.

The PID are not properly set into the enclosure they are just resting on the top currently. I still have some filling to do to make sure they fit snug. The labels are only 1/2" tall do there should not be any issue with them fitting.
 
I see now that you say the PIDs aren't sitting in yet. I think it's going to turn out pretty sharp. Enjoy the process. We are building similar panels, with 2 PIDs and a timer. I look forward to seeing your progress. I had trouble getting help with my wiring diagram so I butchered up one of PJs and came up with my own. I used the standard Microsoft paint program.

Corey
 
P-J : Would be willing to assist me with a diagram for this build? I know you have more important things to do but I would be appreciative. Here is some basic info.

Power Source - 120v
1 - 2000W element
2 - PID
1 - Auber Timer
1 - 40 SSR
1- Buzzer
multiple lights and switches
 
P-J : Would be willing to assist me with a diagram for this build? I know you have more important things to do but I would be appreciative. Here is some basic info.

Power Source - 120v
1 - 2000W element
2 - PID
1 - Auber Timer
1 - 40 SSR
1- Buzzer
multiple lights and switches

Yea... Define what you want to have for the end result first.. The plan on what components you want to use would help.

Links to the 'stuff"?

P-J
 
Thanks P-J.

I'm looking for a 120v (20amp GFI breaker) control panel with a single out put for a 2000w element for a HERMS set up. I'll have 1 PID to control the HERMS and another PID just for Mash Temp. There will be 1 timer with reset button and all 3 wired to their own alarm switch and a central buzzer.

The main panel will have a keyed switch and indicator light. The element will have an on'off switch and indicator light when active through the PID.

Finally, 2 pumps with on/off switch and indicator light.

Here is a link to some of the items.

PID: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
Timer: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=290
SSR: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30
Reset: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400081195462?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Main on/off: http://www.ebay.com/itm/280793996200?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400205772912?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Lights: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400267711624?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Buzzer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400331769823?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I also bought 2 in line fuses.

Please let me know what I'm missing and what info you need. And thank you for time.
 
I would recommend using ebrewsupply for all those switches, lights, and buttons. Price is comparable and you'll get great customer support that you won't get from china.

Corey
 
I would recommend using ebrewsupply for all those switches, lights, and buttons. Price is comparable and you'll get great customer support that you won't get from china.

Corey

Thanks for the info. I followed a lot of Kal's ordering needs. A lot of supplies I already had on hand from previous attemps at building up my system. Also, 90% of my supplies were purchased right here in the USA.
 
Thanks P-J.

I'm looking for a 120v (20amp GFI breaker) control panel with a single out put for a 2000w element for a HERMS set up. I'll have 1 PID to control the HERMS and another PID just for Mash Temp. There will be 1 timer with reset button and all 3 wired to their own alarm switch and a central buzzer.

The main panel will have a keyed switch and indicator light. The element will have an on'off switch and indicator light when active through the PID.

Finally, 2 pumps with on/off switch and indicator light.
...
It took some doing to put it all together for you. I hope it is what you wanted. Just a note about it. Due to the limited power rating of the switches, I placed Mini Power Relays where full power would be delivered.

As always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

 
Question about mounting the SSR and heat sink inside the panel. I was wondering if there would be a benefit to mounting the heat sink and SSR towards the top of the panel or bottom.

Any thoughts or suggestions.
 
Question about mounting the SSR and heat sink inside the panel. I was wondering if there would be a benefit to mounting the heat sink and SSR towards the top of the panel or bottom.

Any thoughts or suggestions.
I would suggest that you mount the heat sink on the outside and on top of the control panel. This External Mount Heat Sink for 40A SSR could easily do the job for you. All of the heat would be dissipated outside your controller with no effect on the PIDs. Also it is very easy to mount and install.

Wishing you great success.

P-J
 
Picked up my labels today and they look good! Should be posting a few pictures in the near future.
 
Here is a teaser. Sorry about the SSR placement. I may end up switching it to an external heat sink. I'll make a few test runs first to see how things work out.

IMG_20130404_104650_492_zpsa579ab64.jpg
 
Ok. I have been dragging my feet on writing this control box. Just finished the stand and more the control box is just about all i have left. What is the best starting point for writing up a box? Do you start at the components our should you start at the positive/negative wire gang controls?

Thank you for your input
 
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