40 gallon steam jacketed kettle

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I just picked up a 40 gallon 2/3 steam jacketed kettle that the furnace went bad on. Plan on stripping all un needed parts off it and cut the steam chamber off. Hopefully I will be left with a 40 gallon brew kettle. It has a 2" tangent valve toward the bottom. Anyone have any ideas how to reduce the 1 1/2" pipe, that the valve assembly is attached to, down to around 1/2". The valve is not on the kettle so I can't use it, only the valve "housing" is attached to the kettle.

I own a steel fab shop so stainless steel welding/fabrication is not an issue.
 
Is it worth fixing the furnace and using it as is? If I had a 40 gallon kettle, I'd want more than 1/2" plumbing.
 
If you are not use to fixing this items then, I will advise you to ask a professional personnel to help you with this.
 
is that 2" pipe or tube how far away is it from the kettle if you have a stub out you could get an conical reducer
 
cleveland-kgl-40-t-steam-jacketed-kettle-gas-tilting-40-gallons-leg-type.jpg


This is what the kettle would have looked like new. All I have is the kettle part. So far I have cut everything sticking out except the valve housing, shown on the left side of the picture. Will hopefully add pics soon of the actual kettle and the work I have done so far.
 
that looks like tube so you would need a 2"od to 1/2"od conical to make it then i would go with tri clamp fitings
 
mail


This is a pic of the actual kettle before I cut the bottom of the steam chamber out. I also took the end of the drain spout off so I can weld a threaded nipple to it. It is a 2" round tube.
 
I just picked up a 40 gallon 2/3 steam jacketed kettle that the furnace went bad on. Plan on stripping all un needed parts off it and cut the steam chamber off. Hopefully I will be left with a 40 gallon brew kettle. It has a 2" tangent valve toward the bottom. Anyone have any ideas how to reduce the 1 1/2" pipe, that the valve assembly is attached to, down to around 1/2". The valve is not on the kettle so I can't use it, only the valve "housing" is attached to the kettle.

I own a steel fab shop so stainless steel welding/fabrication is not an issue.


I may be over simplifying your explanation, but a 1 1/2" x 1/2" swage fitting would do it.
You would just cut off the threads on the 1 1/2" side of the fitting, weld, and now you've reduced down to 1/2" with a threaded end.
 
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