Glue handle back on Corny Keg? Gorilla Glue doesn't last

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RobertHSmith

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2 years ago I used Gorilla Glue to glue back the tops and bottom on some kegs I bought where they were comming off. Now they are falling apart again.

The Gorilla Glue was pretty expensive and frankly, didn't last past a month after I used it. It has worked great for me in the past on wood projects, but not on this. Every surface was cleaned and dried before I put them together and then clamped together.

Is there anything else better? I've read that marine epoxy might work, but does it? Cleaning this Gorilla Glue off is going to be a PITA and I want what ever I use next to last longer than the Gorilla Glue did.

thanks.
 
Did the glue break or did it detach from one of the surfaces? Metal to rubber is rather difficult and what you'll need is a two-part void-filling marine epoxy designed for metals. I've used them to bond wood siding onto a metal frame in an RV. Depending on the epoxy, you may also need a primer for the metal.
 
Supposedly 2-part epoxy is supposed to work. I've got a tube waiting to fix one of my cornies when I stop being lazy.
 
I've heard epoxies work well for them. Is it worth it to buy kegs with loose tops and bottoms? Seems like a PITA to reattach them. Granted sometimes a keg without a loose top/bottom will develop this. Simply wondering as I can buy some relatively cheap with loose tops but don't know if I want to if it's a pain.
 
Two important points on using void-filling epoxies:

1. They are NOT glues and rely on a thick layer of compound to mate the surfaces. Do not clamp tightly.
2. They cure, not dry. Work time is limited and once it starts setting, it's too late.
 
Gorilla glue instructions say to wet the surfaces. I used GG on loose kegs with great success. I just cleaned the surfaces, wet them, applied glue, wiped off excess and stacked a full corny on top to apply pressure. You could try contact cement or superglue.
 
gorilla glue won't stick if there are gaps. also i believe its not for below water. that means if you have lots of water contact, they come apart.
 
The best thing we have found to do....

Go to an automotive glass shop. The glue they use for windows has a tear strength of 14K lbs.+.
It is meant to use with rubber/metal.

Give them a beer or two and have them put some glue in.
Keep the mating surfaces under pressure for at least 24 hours.

Matt
 
Has any one tried automotive urithane that they put windows in with. I used to glue my shoes back together with that stuff.
 
I wish all the damn rubber tops on my kegs would fall off. Then I would take them to a welder and have a metal handle tacked on. The rubber is great for stacking, which I don't do and useful for protecting the tops when thrown around - again I don't do that.

I did glue down a loose top with Elmers version of Gorilla glue and it has held for over a year so far.
 
The best thing we have found to do....

Go to an automotive glass shop. The glue they use for windows has a tear strength of 14K lbs.+.
It is meant to use with rubber/metal.

Give them a beer or two and have them put some glue in.
Keep the mating surfaces under pressure for at least 24 hours.

Matt

Has any one tried automotive urithane that they put windows in with. I used to glue my shoes back together with that stuff.

I think somebody has tried this before. ;)

Can a regular consumer buy this stuff anywhere?
 
I just bought six loose top/bottom kegs from pedalbiker. I have some 3M epoxy that I'm going to try on one of the kegs when I get them. I'll see how it holds up before I slap it on the other kegs. I'll let you guys know what works for me but it will be a little while.
$19 a keg when it's reconditioned with new o-rings is a pretty good deal. Luckily I live near him and can pick them up saving significant dough in shipping.
http://www.kegglebrewing.com/Four-P...Lock-Kegs-with-Loose-Top-or-Bottom_p_183.html
 
I recently got 5 kegs that the bottoms are slightly coming off for 10 a pop. Now I could probably live with how they are now but I just keep thinking when I go to clean them all the water is going to pool underneath. So I figure get them fixed before using. My question to someone that has done this is did you completely remove the bottom (or top). Or did you just squirt some glue in and put some weight on it till it set up?
 
The 3m window weld urethane should work well. It is expensive, usually $15 for a caulk tube. It doesn't come in smaller sizes. It is made to work hot or cold and bond to metal rubber and glass. It will bond to smooth surfaces like stainless, although it would not hurt to scuff it up with rough sandpaper.
I have only had a problem with one keg and I used some crazy aerospace grade epoxy. A freind gave me the epoxy because his company couldn't use it because it was past the experation date. It's some crazy stuff NASA uses. It took 5 days to cure. But I think the stainless will distort before this epoxy comes off! It's not labeled so I have no idea what it is.
 
just stop by a glass shop and ask to buy a tube. My uncle owned a glass shop back in the day so i always had a tube laying around for special ocasions.
 
I forgot to mention:
When laying the beads of glue, DO NOT make a complete circle.
Lay the glue in either straight lines outward from center or make two "C" shaped lines, with the open part of the "C"s oposite of each other.
If you make a complete circle of glue, it will not allow the air inside the circle to escape, thus the rubber/metal mating surface will not be flush.
 
Once the rubber tops come loose from any older corny keg, the options for getting them to stay on with almost any type of glue is pure luck and most likely short lived. We have bought sold and repaired cornys for over 25 years and the only company that truly could fix them has stopped operations just over a year ago. we have had customers that just pulled the rubber off and found a local welded with experience at welding stainless make a new metal handle for the tanks. At a price of $35.00 per tank it seems like the frustration, time spent and disappointment if it does not work or last long make the replacing the tank worthwhile. While they may be harder to come by then years ago, they certainly are not that hard to find new or used online. If you wish to consider replacing the tank check out this craigs list ad.

http://denver.craigslist.org/bfs/2120198717.html

Best of luck!!!

Tankmastr
 
If you wish to consider replacing the tank check out this craigs list ad.
http://denver.craigslist.org/bfs/2120198717.html

I called the number on that add a bunch of times since the middle of November and no one ever answered or called me back. I would much rather have driven up there to get a bunch of kegs instead of getting ones online that I can't inspect before I buy them and then pay for shipping.

Anyway, does anyone know if new handles can be bought somewhere? There are brand new corny kegs available so someone has to be making the handles.
 
I recently got 5 kegs that the bottoms are slightly coming off for 10 a pop. Now I could probably live with how they are now but I just keep thinking when I go to clean them all the water is going to pool underneath. So I figure get them fixed before using. My question to someone that has done this is did you completely remove the bottom (or top). Or did you just squirt some glue in and put some weight on it till it set up?

I have done bottoms with Liquid Nails. I took my loose ones completely off first, and washed/rinsed/dried thoroughly before applying the Liquid Nails. Also, to prevent stink if beer gets down there and starts to fester (I have a couple like this - going to remove/re-glue when they kick next) I'd run a bead of tub/tile caulk around the outside of the base where it seals to the keg. Just enough to keep liquid from penetrating.
 
I've fixed a few loose tops & bottoms with Amazing Goop. It works! Clean the area with lacquer thinner, push the Goop in with a popsicle stick, wrap a rope around it (on the rubber just above or below the metal) and use a stick (I use a 2x2) to make a tourniquet, place the repaired end on the floor & use something to hold the stick and put some weight on the top of the keg. Let it sit for a couple of days and don’t test it for a week or more. Cheers!!!
 
I called the number on that add a bunch of times since the middle of November and no one ever answered or called me back. I would much rather have driven up there to get a bunch of kegs instead of getting ones online that I can't inspect before I buy them and then pay for shipping.

Anyway, does anyone know if new handles can be bought somewhere? There are brand new corny kegs available so someone has to be making the handles.

We messed up the phone number,SORRY, had fax number listed.
CORRECT NUMBER IS 303-238-8343 LEAVE MSG FOR TOM.

What kind of handle are you looking for. I have some original black plastic handle which have not been produced in many years. All new tanks have either the black rubber tops or the single curved metal handle that is welded on. Neither of these are designed to be replaced.

Feel free to PM me about the handle.

Cheers!!

Tom / Tankmaster
 
Tried "GilaMinumBeer's" suggestion and it seems to have worked GREAT!!
Turned to a super hard plastic.
Only time will tell I guess...

-Randy
 

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