While I agree with the above, I like the big beefy look of the lag bolts and screws, but structurally I also feel that a 3 1/2 deck screw is also more than adequate!
To each his own...
To each his own...
Show Me Your Wood Brew Sculpture/Rig
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LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
I built my 3-tier outdoor stand using 3.5" deck screws and everything is still holding up rock-solid. I tested my rig by standing on top of it and jumping up and down on it and trying to wiggle it from side to side. It didn't go anywhere.
I used the swing set I built for my daughter as a baseline design for construction. It used lag bolts, washers, and nuts at all the major structural junctions and survived Katrina, so I wanted my brewstand to be that solid since I knew I was going to have a couple hundred pounds on it potentially between all the vessels. I don't trust deck screws for that. I plan to use them on my mill station, but that's not going to be bearing that much weight.
I don't think that's wood??
Conan
Well-Known Member
Ironwood.
But that's just his stage name.
That's just a keg holder, he brews on that lovely fence...
Seriously though rbwduece, I wish I had a mig welder so I could do something similar. But I've been convinced that I should do another stand in wood first to iron out the inevitable 'kinks' in design.
ssgross
Well-Known Member
brew stand is actually 3 moveable piececs.
deck screws vs. lag bolts...
I would rather use joist hangers, hurricane straps, and appropriate sized screws than have to drill numerous holes to accommodate all those lags. Drilling obviously removes wood which in turn lessens the structural integrity of said wood. Also, that outdoor playset some one mentioned is most likely made of cedar which is a completely different wood than the pine or fir most of you guys are building with. All I know is that, is on this site, overkill /overdone/ overbuilt is the norm... next people will be making rigs out of poured concrete with rebar.
I would rather use joist hangers, hurricane straps, and appropriate sized screws than have to drill numerous holes to accommodate all those lags. Drilling obviously removes wood which in turn lessens the structural integrity of said wood. Also, that outdoor playset some one mentioned is most likely made of cedar which is a completely different wood than the pine or fir most of you guys are building with. All I know is that, is on this site, overkill /overdone/ overbuilt is the norm... next people will be making rigs out of poured concrete with rebar.
Don't know about rigs out of concrete, but it's only a matter of time before someone ferments in concrete!
http://www.concretewinetanks.com/
That is an interesting idea. It means more hardware, cuts, etc, but it also gives a big mobility bonus. How has it been in use? Do you find it annoying that pieces move around more or have you enjoyed the flexibility?
ssgross
Well-Known Member
each piece has lockable casters so they don't move around if I don't want them to. I also had metal plates to bolt the pieces together if needed, but I was so pleased with the locking casters that I took the bolts and plates back to lowes.
I was really pleased with how the ceramic tiles worked with the propane burners.
I can't speak for everyone, but I can get about four crown bolt junctions for the cost of a single joist hanger. I also wouldn't say "all those lags" in my case since I tried to be quite strategic in my use of crown bolts, washers, and nuts vs. deck screws.
That wood that is lost is replaced by zinc-plated steel. And how much bigger is the hole when considering the aggregate size of an adequate number of deck screws to give the same result?
No, it was pressure-treated pine. Granted, they were also 4x4s, which is why I didn't sink them as deeply on the brewstand.
Well, I did consider Durock for the deck under the burners at one point, so guilty as charged I suppose.
dlaramie08
Well-Known Member
rbwduece said:
That's what she said.
not trying to be a dick... but, the wood isn't "replaced" by the lag, you've destroyed the integrity by "breaking" the grain, which is where the strength lies. All the lag does is exert a downward pressure on the reduced mass of the wood at the bottom of the hole you drilled. In other words, if you drilled a hole in the flat of a 2x4 and stuck your lag through, all the wood that supports it is only 2" thick. A screw, on the other hand, doesn't remove any material, it wedges itself IN the grain (where all the strength is) and is held by all the friction points on threads.
But, I will say, the lag heads do look cool.
mgrennie
Member
Here's mine in progress, recycled from my boat rack that Sandy took out.
I originally was going to have it single tier with 2 burners and a table spot, but decided to go with a 2 tier, so will be shortening it.
I used lag bolts, because I bought a box when I built the boat rack.
I originally was going to have it single tier with 2 burners and a table spot, but decided to go with a 2 tier, so will be shortening it.
I used lag bolts, because I bought a box when I built the boat rack.
You do realize the ultimate result of this sort of phrase generally, right?
You realize that screws break the grain, just as much, if not more, right? Drilling a hole for a crown bolt, two washers, and a nut will generally not cause a split along the grain since that material is 'lost'. I have seen deck screws split an inch either way. That doesn't go away. With a crown bolt, the wood isn't replaced, but the space is. With a screw, that wood still has to go somewhere. It usually expands to the sides as a split. That's why I use crown bolts and not lag screws (despite the fact that a lag screw would work the same as a smaller size but higher number of deck screws).
Well, except for the aforementioned splits that they cause from the sideways pressure they exert on the grain.
I really couldn't care less for coolness or looks from that perspective. All I can tell you is that the structures I've built hold over time and under adverse conditions. YMMV. Admittedly, that's anecdotal evidence, but I don't see much empirical evidence to the contrary being provided in return.But, I will say, the lag heads do look cool.
Oh man, look what I started! People now feel obligated to defend their fastener of choice!
mgrennie
Member
I do have to say, fastener choice does not replace good design. I left out my diagonal braces for the boat rack, because I had my big boat on a trailer parked perpendicular with the transom overhanging. That caused the bottom bolts to tear the wood during the hurricane.
groundchuck
Well-Known Member
That is funny $hit right there I don't care who you are. I was thinking the same thing when I saw mgrennie's post.
By the way mgrennie, I really like your brew stand. :rockin: Not for the sexy factor but for the reuse factor. I am an engineer by day so I am all about design simplicity / efficiency. However, #2 on the list is design/product reuse. I am always a fan of reusing stuff for new purposes. Being able to say "My brewstand once held my boat in place" is definitely cool.
Nice work.
Absolutely true.
mgrennie
Member
Thanks. I'm an engineer, too, and primarily a sailor. My intention was to make it look like a well weathered dock, and I'm thinking my bar build will be the other half of the rack. It's ugly compared to others, but it will always look the same. The plywood came directly from a shed (destroyed by snow) platform I built, so I nailed it on until I have time to make a nice deck. It will also be stored outside, so I wanted my burners, pump and everything to be removeable for inside storage. Not bad for a project accomplished in less than an hour while my wife was out.
dacohen
New Member
Just finished construction on my wood stand. I still need to mount my pump & chiller. When it is functioning, it will be a herms system. Hoping to brew the inaugural batch this weekend.
NervousDad
BFM
I really need to make a single tier stand. I bought a welder, I just have to stop being so lazy. Not all wood but it sits on a rolling wood platform.
cpl-america
Well-Known Member
Count it!
Here's mine, 3rd revision, just hooked up 1/2" natural gas pipe and added the turkey fryer burner as an HLT. Worked great although I missed my OG by too much on the initial run. 23 tip jet burner on Brew Pot and BG12 on the HLT. Just need to upgrade my cooling solution as my IC just takes too long.
spointon
Member
Just got the new kettle in last night. Am awaiting just a few parts to complete the quick disconnect lines and it will be ready to test drive.
groundchuck
Well-Known Member
That's looking really good spointon
..... I now have this uncomfortable feeling of dissatisfaction with my rig ....... damitjim ....... stoopid hobby .........
I've been thinking about modifying my existing bench. Right now it's a single tier, but I have no pumps or anything. I'd like to spruce it up a bit and modify it for a three tier system until I can buy a pump. With that in mind I've been trying to think of a way to do a three tier system while not eliminating the single tier base. What I've come up with is the following:
I'm going to lower the single tier to about 3 feet high. My MT will sit on this. I'll build a riser on the bench to place my Bayou Classic SP10 and HLT on. Then I'll cut a hole in the top of the bench to allow my BK to come up through maybe an inch or so.
Here is a really bad drawing of what I'm thinking. Do you guys think this will work. Eventually I'd like to have a single tier with pumps and I think this allows me to maintain the single tier option while giving me the 3 tier gravity that I need in the short term.
I'm going to lower the single tier to about 3 feet high. My MT will sit on this. I'll build a riser on the bench to place my Bayou Classic SP10 and HLT on. Then I'll cut a hole in the top of the bench to allow my BK to come up through maybe an inch or so.
Here is a really bad drawing of what I'm thinking. Do you guys think this will work. Eventually I'd like to have a single tier with pumps and I think this allows me to maintain the single tier option while giving me the 3 tier gravity that I need in the short term.
Why not just remove the boards for the BK? Then there's no risk in the heat coming up around the kettle from catching fire to the boards that were cut. Also, you can reuse the boards when/if you go back to a single tier.
My guess would be that the burner on the bottom tier is going to torch the wood above it.
+1 to this
LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
If that were my rig and I wanted to keep the single-tier intact, I'd remove the platform boards near the BK and keep a close eye on the remaining structural boards to make sure they don't get too toasty during a brew. If the heat starts to get worrisome, maybe buy a piece or two of sheet metal and cut it up and wrap the pieces with the sheet metal.
bknifefight
Well-Known Member
The first running version of my electric build. Eventually it will end up HERMS.
Sheet metal would work well. I bet a few layers of heavy duty aluminum foil would even do the trick.
CastleHollow
Well-Known Member
On my original brewrig, I went with pressure treated pine. But that was mostly reclaimed from an old porch. I figure since it held up to the elements for 10+ years without damage, some spilled wort and hot water wouldn't hurt it.
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