New way to control Pellet Hop gunk!

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Dumb question, but I use an immersion chiller to cool down my wort. Because of that, I'm figuring the only way to make this work would be to have the stainer in the center of the pot. Any thoughts on the best way to brace it to make that happen? I use a 9 gallon pot from Adventures in Homebrewing (see link) with a ball valve and sight gauge/thermometer from BrewHardare.com. The picture below is the stock photo from Adventures in Hombrewing without the sight gauge and thermometer.

9gal1-weld(1).jpg


http://www.homebrewing.org/One-Weld-9-Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Pot_p_1683.html

Everything works great, but I get a ton of hops and break in the fermenter. I've tried a bazooka screen, but it gets clogged like crazy. This seems like a better option.

Thanks for the help.

hmm, yep I'd probably have him build something that works with the opening on the inside of your chiller coils and then have him weld three or four tabs with holes at the top and suspend it with stainless threaded rod or give him the measurements and he can extend the tabs to go over the edge of your kettle and keep it suspended in the middle. This still feels a little klugey as you'll have to lift up the filter in order to get your chiller in of course if you just pull the filter before chilling you won't have an issue with the regular version but I'm presuming that you still want to do flameout hops or have some reason to leave the hops in contact while you are chilling... email Chad to see what he can do <[email protected]>
 
Thanks for the reply.

To clarify, yes, I do flameout hops, but I also usually put the chiller in the boil with around 15 minutes left to "sanitize" it in the boil.

I was thinking the only way to make it work would be to almost have a W type bracket on it. It would hook on each side of the pot and the brace would go all the way to the bottom of the pot on each side. It would then bend 90 degrees at the bottom and when each side got to the edge of the filter, it would bend at 90 degrees and connect to the filter. Not sure if that makes any sense.
 
drive45 said:
Thanks for the reply.

To clarify, yes, I do flameout hops, but I also usually put the chiller in the boil with around 15 minutes left to "sanitize" it in the boil.

I was thinking the only way to make it work would be to almost have a W type bracket on it. It would hook on each side of the pot and the brace would go all the way to the bottom of the pot on each side. It would then bend 90 degrees at the bottom and when each side got to the edge of the filter, it would bend at 90 degrees and connect to the filter. Not sure if that makes any sense.

See what happens when you shift to a plate chiller.... You forget all about sticking the immersion chiller in to sterilize it! I think I'm following you, essentially you are describing a bracket that would go down the side, under your chiller and come up in the middle to hold the filter. While I believe this would work while the chiller is in place I'm not sure if it would bounce around during the boil,probably safer to go the hop spider route and just lift it up while placing your chiller in the kettle and set it back down in place after the Chiller is in.
 
Anyone tried this set up it is made for milk/beer in line strainer $84.21 free delivery world wide, choice of grit 40 to 200 a (54 grit is 305 microns)

Satiary-Welded-Angle-Filter-Strainer-Pipeline-Filter.jpg
 
Hi, just wanted to remind everyone here that I don't make these things and am not affiliated with the seller. I just started the thread to let you guys know what I've come across and how I'm dealing with the issue of hop gunk and keeping my plate chillers clean!

The actual seller is:
Chad Beauchamp 734-626-5864 [email protected]

Feel free to contact him and tell him what you want he is an extremely easy person to work with.
 
Anyone tried this set up it is made for milk/beer in line strainer $84.21 free delivery world wide, choice of grit 40 to 200 a (54 grit is 305 microns)

I haven't but it reminds me of the brewers hardware one that I liked but was way more expensive and hard to bolt up to my rig.

http://www.brewershardware.com/FILTER1.html with tax and shipping this one ended up being over $150. Derrin there is a great guy though so I'm sure this thing kicks but, just a little pricey for me!
 
Spreadhead said:
To those who have one of the ebay filters:

Do you prefer it to rest on the bottom of the kettle or hang above the bottom a couple inches?

I have a 20" deep kettle and my filter is 14" so it sits 6 inch off the bottom and I'm happy with that. I was concerned with the force of the boil bouncing it up if it sat on the bottom..... I do not know if it will actually cause an issue.
 
LabRatBrewer said:
Just ordered a 6X14 with 300 micron. The seller is very quick to reply and answered all my questions.

I'm so close... so close
 
xmacro said:
Anyone done a 300 vs 400 micron comparison yet?

Not yet, my first 300 test will be Saturday and I will post updates and pics. I don't have a 400 (yet) so I'm afraid I can't compare them.
 
These looked interesting, but I believe that vendor is doing themselves a great disservice by displaying a $30 price, only to find that it's really at least $80.

I messaged the ebay seller to see if they would do customized versions.

Buy your own straining metal mesh - stainless steel wire cloth or wire mesh - I always buy in 1 of 2 places and they usually can supply exactly what I am looking for:

www.mcmaster.com

http://www.bwire.com/index.html

Check pricing, but when in need, these 2 are my go to suppliers of wire cloth material.
 
Has anyone asked the guy if he's doing sanitary welds? Just wondering if everything's clean and he's using pure CO2 and whatnot
 
xmacro said:
Has anyone asked the guy if he's doing sanitary welds? Just wondering if everything's clean and he's using pure CO2 and whatnot

I haven't asked but I'm on my second filter and can attest to the quality, clean welds. These things also go into the boil so I wasn't super worried about it after giving it a nice 160 degree PBW soak and rinse. They also clean up well! He just posted a few entries up the thread so you could always PM him or email him directly.
 
My understanding of a (food) "sanitary weld" means that there will be no porosity and this, obviously, will have nooks-n-crannies. But anywho, I just measured the distance from my kettle's opening down to the heating element and found it to be exactly 14". Kismet? I would like to think so. I'll be saving my coins for one of these.
 
tjpfeister said:
My understanding of a (food) "sanitary weld" means that there will be no porosity and this, obviously, will have nooks-n-crannies. But anywho, I just measured the distance from my kettle's opening down to the heating element and found it to be exactly 14". Kismet? I would like to think so. I'll be saving my coins for one of these.

Lol, yes I was referring to the stainless stock welds, not the tacks for the mesh.
 
Did the 10 gallon batch of Punkin' Ale today with the 300 micron filter, it kicked a$$! Worked great, drained fast and cleaned up quick leaving nothing behind in the brew kettle. I was thinking about testing out the 400 micron filter but I think I will stop here because it works perfectly. I will know for sure after a 20 gallon batch of Pliny that I'll do in a couple of weeks but you are safe going with a 300 micron!

image-2727961581.jpg


image-1136093940.jpg


image-479086982.jpg
 
Got my 300 micron as well and brewed yesterday. Worked great . Used hop pellets and had no issues. Cleans up easily
 
The guy just got back to me - doesn't use sanitary welds, but it's can be run thru the dishwasher, and for price, a hopper with 6" diameter, 10" long would be $55; not a bad price at all.

Really good price, but I'm worried about those welds - will it make any difference that they're not sanitary?
 
xmacro said:
The guy just got back to me - doesn't use sanitary welds, but it's can be run thru the dishwasher, and for price, a hopper with 6" diameter, 10" long would be $55; not a bad price at all.

Really good price, but I'm worried about those welds - will it make any difference that they're not sanitary?

I'm 4 batches in without issue, remember that you boil the hell out of this thing anyways......
 
xmacro said:
The guy just got back to me - doesn't use sanitary welds, but it's can be run thru the dishwasher, and for price, a hopper with 6" diameter, 10" long would be $55; not a bad price at all.

Really good price, but I'm worried about those welds - will it make any difference that they're not sanitary?

It's in the boil, it's going to get sanitized
 
I used my 400 micron basket yesterday from Chad and it worked great! 4 ounces of hops, whole and pellet combined and very little of the pellets went through the mesh. I'm very happy with the results of the 400 micron basket.
 
Just ordered a 6" diam x 10" to fit into my 10 gallon megapot in 300 micron, so we'll see how it goes
 
mcbaumannerb said:
Thank you for this great info Marc! This thread is a prime example of why this site rocks. I've already emailed Chad to get a quote for my next brew (an RIS)

You are very welcome. I agree that this site rocks, I find that there are different types of homebrewers and HBT has a lot of similar folks who not only enjoy brewing but also tinkering and engineering to have the best, shortest brew day possible!
 
how do users of the 400 micron feel about it? is it letting too much gunk through (especially with regards pellets)?

anyone compare the 400 to the 300?

i'm leaning towards the 400, since i'd like to have good water circulation/exchange.
 
how do users of the 400 micron feel about it? is it letting too much gunk through (especially with regards pellets)?

anyone compare the 400 to the 300?

i'm leaning towards the 400, since i'd like to have good water circulation/exchange.

I've been following this thread for awhile now, read all the posts - no one's done a comparison except for 200 vs 300 and 200 seems a tad small
 
marcb said:
You are very welcome. I agree that this site rocks, I find that there are different types of homebrewers and HBT has a lot of similar folks who not only enjoy brewing but also tinkering and engineering to have the best, shortest brew day possible!

If only my co-workers were as prompt and efficient as Chad. I got the quote and invoice within minutes of my emails. Now I just have to wait for the 6x11/300 screen to arrive!
 
Well, I ordered mine on Tuesday, got it in the mail today.

Welds look ugly as hell (off-colors, etc), but overall it seems sturdy and there's a ton of weld spots, so nothing's coming loose; seems the guy uses two mesh screens instead of one, the whole thing feels solid in the hand.

I threw it in the dishwasher, it'll get clean next time I do some dishes, and I'll test it out in a few weeks when I have some primaries availabel
 
When a "debate" degrades to off topic bickering, it's time to move on. When it degrades to namecalling, the thread risks closure due to forum rule violations. Racial, ethnic, and sexual slurs are absolutely not tolerated and will net you at least a temporary ban, no questions asked (in this case, one week). Further activity of that sort will result in thread closure and permanent bans.

Carry on, keep it on topic, and no more antics.
 

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