Why do we cut the keggle like we do.

It seams to me that it would be easier to clean, and to make the cut if I just cut the entire top off. I understand that I would lose the handles, but is there any other reason? (structural integrity?) Or is this just how it is done, because that is how it is done?

Thanks

Mike

I've been wondering the same thing. I have a keg in my garage waiting for me to cut it up and I'm going to try BIAB so a larger diameter hole in the top would facilitate getting the bag in and out easier.

Does a lip on a keggle keep some of the evaporation down during the boil?

I like having the handles. They're not super light.

I personally think the handles are well worth a little extra difficulty in cleaning. MHO

JadeDone said:

I personally think the handles are well worth a little extra difficulty in cleaning. MHO

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Yes, I don't know how else you'd move it around. It's about 30 pounds empty, so unless you were welding handles on it somewhere else, I'd leave them on there.

Cutting the top off does make the keggle weaker, but as long as you don't make a habit of dropping it, no problem.

But handles are very useful, especially when the keggle is hot.

What about something similar to this

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-lighten-your-sanke-keggle-214694/

or

Pros:
* Can put a lid on them when you're bringing temps up to boil, so you get to boiling temp faster.
* Have handles to lift the sucker

Cons:
* Somewhat harder to clean
* May give you problems if you do BIAB

Eh. I'd much rather have the handles and I don't do BIAB.

cyberwollf said:

What about something similar to this

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-lighten-your-sanke-keggle-214694/

or

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dude, what size valve/dump tube you have on those? looks great.

Whether you cut the entire top off or not, you're probably going to spend the same amount of time grinding the edge down so you don't get cut on it. May as well leave the handles. Aside from that, as stated before, you'll use 'em!

I cut the "bottom" out of mine and made use of the neck for a drain...

I just completed some modifications to my keggle MT.
I'm setting up to clean in place on my single tier all electric stand so I'm not to worried about moving the vessels around.

First I welded a 2" tri-clamp ferule in the bottom and added a butterfly valve and discharge hose... I can now gravity drain 15 gallons in about 20 seconds... looks almost like a toilet flushing

The top of the MT was cut like most keggles on here with about a 12" opening. I then cut the top ring and "skirt" off but left the rounded top in place. So my MT is now about 3" shorter but has the same volume, is easier to clean and I don't have that pesky crevice to catch grain.

I cut the whole top off of mine, cut just under the weld with an angle grinder, I do biab and did not want to deal with the lip. I do not think structural integrity is an issue, it can flex only slightly at the top. You would have to sit it on it's side and sit on it to get any real flex.

As far as a lid goes, I just throw a folded beach towel on top when bringing to a boil and it does the trick. I do like the idea of cutting the bottom off and using the opening to drain as Ohio-Ed stated. 15 gallons in 20 seconds....Wow!

Thanks for all the input guys! Have not made up my mind which way to go, but no I have more info.

Similar to what duckfoot did, has anyone heard of making a not-so-conical fermentation vessel out of a keg by turning it upside down to use the 'drain' on the bottom to allow removal of yeast cake post ferment, and drilling a small hole in the 'top' to rack into and bung up for fermentation?

scruffymmh said:

Similar to what duckfoot did, has anyone heard of making a not-so-conical fermentation vessel out of a keg by turning it upside down to use the 'drain' on the bottom to allow removal of yeast cake post ferment, and drilling a small hole in the 'top' to rack into and bung up for fermentation?

Click to expand...

I doubt you would get great action with that shallow shape. I thinkit' snot steep enough to force much of the yeast into the bottom.

I've also thought about cutting the top of, except where the handles are. I saw that a while back and liked it. I figured I'd wait until I see how much I actually need to move my kegs when I get set up for electric on my brewstand.

For now, those suckers are heavy! I still need to lift it up to a table to gravity drain through my chiller and it's a bit of a workout.

BeerMe21 said:

I cut the whole top off of mine, cut just under the weld with an angle grinder, I do biab and did not want to deal with the lip. I do not think structural integrity is an issue, it can flex only slightly at the top. You would have to sit it on it's side and sit on it to get any real flex.

Click to expand...

Is the lip a real problem for BIAB? That's what I'd like to get into.

I read this post and thought of this one, a commonly referenced one for those who are doing BIAB. In the pictures, you can see that he cut the whole top out of the inside, leaving handles and straight sides in tact. Take a gander, maybe it'll help.

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4650

scruffymmh said:

Similar to what duckfoot did, has anyone heard of making a not-so-conical fermentation vessel out of a keg by turning it upside down to use the 'drain' on the bottom to allow removal of yeast cake post ferment, and drilling a small hole in the 'top' to rack into and bung up for fermentation?

Click to expand...

Like some mentioned, with the steep walls, you probably won't get that much of a collection at the bottom... Also, with a small rack in port and the small outlet in the bottom, cleaning may be a PITA... Granted, I use a Sanke for main fermenting, but I am itching for a conical bad...

HopsJunkie said:

I read this post and thought of this one, a commonly referenced one for those who are doing BIAB. In the pictures, you can see that he cut the whole top out of the inside, leaving handles and straight sides in tact. Take a gander, maybe it'll help.

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4650

Click to expand...

I know that thread well. It's inspirational.
Did you cut that keg yourself and did you did it with an angle grinder?

shuckit said:

Is the lip a real problem for BIAB? That's what I'd like to get into.

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I've started doing this recently and haven't found it to be a real problem. the one issue I've had is if I raise the grain bag out of the keggle too fast it will bulge over the top of the lip and spill some wort If I raise it out nice and slow then things drain off nicely and I don't run into this problem. You will want to make sure you smooth down all the surfaces real nice so your bag doesn't snag. I've done a couple batches this way so far and I've been pretty happy with the results for the most part.

Had Swagman cut my kegs and this is what he came up with.




Just wish the powers to be would let him on the board but I guess the all mighty dollar is in first and the brewers second



Woodie

david_42 said:

Cutting the top off does make the keggle weaker, but as long as you don't make a habit of dropping it, no problem.

But handles are very useful, especially when the keggle is hot.

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+1

my $0.02 -- I like having that rolled-edge top on my keggle for drying it and storing it upside-down. Plus they can be stacked.

Also like having the standard handles because of the awkward size/diameter/weight combination...i almost always move it around using both handles whereas a lighter, taller kettle is much easier to haul around with one hand. This may be irrelevant to most, but I have to pack/unpack my entire brewery jenga-style in a storage closet every brewday.

+1 for the standard way we cut the kegs. It has handles, you can stack them and the clean up really isn't a problem for me. I would have never thought it was a problem for anyone until I heard about it here. Of course I don't do BIAB, so I don't know the limitations there.

Although, if I ever make a mash tun out of a keg, I will turn it upside down and put a tri-clover on it.

dcHokie said:

+1

my $0.02 -- I like having that rolled-edge top on my keggle for drying it and storing it upside-down. Plus they can be stacked.

Also like having the standard handles because of the awkward size/diameter/weight combination...i almost always move it around using both handles whereas a lighter, taller kettle is much easier to haul around with one hand. This may be irrelevant to most, but I have to pack/unpack my entire brewery jenga-style in a storage closet every brewday.

Click to expand...

+2 To this. Took the words out of my mouth.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/plasma-cutter-cutting-kegs-259159/index2.html


real easy

IMO, The little lip gives me an extra 10-15 seconds to notice a boil over, it pushes the foam to the center.

A couple pictures of my "topless" MT and one of the separated top.
The top ring and "skirt" weigh almost 6.5 pounds.

Ed