1st BIAB attempt coming up

I am doing a 2.5 gallon Centennial Blonde next weekend. Here is the recipe from HBT:

3.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 79.91 %
0.38 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 8.68 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 5.71 %
0.25 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 5.71 %
0.13 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (55 min) Hops 9.0 IBU
0.13 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (35 min) Hops 7.6 IBU
0.13 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 3.2 IBU
0.13 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.1 IBU

It does not have a yeast strain. Is there a standard yeast for this?

I also want to make 2.5 gallons of this Christmas Ale:

Fermentables
US 2-Row Malt 13lb 0oz (84.1 %) In Mash/Steeped
UK Medium Crystal 8.00 oz (3.2 %) In Mash/Steeped
Belgian Special B 8.00 oz (3.2 %) In Mash/Steeped
German Wheat Malt 4.00 oz (1.6 %) In Mash/Steeped
US Chocolate Malt (350L) 3.20 oz (1.3 %) In Mash/Steeped
Sugar - Honey 1lb 0oz (6.5 %) End Of Boil

Hops
US Centennial (9.4 % alpha) 1.00 oz Bagged Whole Hops used 60 Min From End
US Centennial (9.4 % alpha) 0.50 oz Bagged Whole Hops used 30 Min From End
US Centennial (9.4 % alpha) 0.50 oz Bagged Whole Hops used 5 Min From End

Other Ingredients
Irish Moss 0.01 oz used In Boil
Vanilla Beans 1
Orange Peel, Bitter 1 Tbs
Cinnamon Stick 1
Ginger Root 1Tbs (dehydrated or fresh)

Single Step Infusion (67C/152F)

Recipe Notes
Make a tea prior to bottling by boiling a quart of the beer with the above spices and priming sugar for about a minute to combine. Add the mixture to a french press and let sit for 15 minutes. Then add to bottling Bucket.

I know the second recipe needs cut in half.

What should I look out for? I have only done 1 Mr. Beer kit before this.

Thanks;

Bill

Cent blonde was my 1-5 brew attempts using BIAB. I failed it a lot. I was using full volume. I would first brew at 1.5 or so qt/lb of grain. Centennial blonde is such a light beer when I went full volume there was not much grain to pull the alkalinity down and my pH was too high. This produced a bitter astringent taste.
I did not understand the mash ratio idea. Now I still do full volume at about 2.5qts/lb but I build the water and test pH. Before making things complicated just use proper mash thickness. Do a sparge hot or cold dunk or rest doesn't matter, don't worry about efficiency plan on 60% and if you get more great.

As far as the Christmas. I have made them and I am not a fan. I do not think adding spices in the bottling bucket are a great idea as you won't be able to check on flavor before bottling. I did this brew right at the start of my brewing as well and it is a beer that taught a lesson...less is more. Adding all the spices just takes away from good beer. I now decided I will no longer add anyrhjng but hops and malt. Like many lessons though, they have to be learned and can't be taught. Good luck.

Do you recommend a Christmas Ale? Where is Powell? I grew up in Painesville OH. (Lake County)

Bill

My equipment list for 2.5 gallon brews:

I have a 6 gal ss pot
Digital thermometer with probe
3 LBKs
1 5 gal water cooler
1 10 gal water cooler
assortment of standard household pots and pans
ss steel stirring spoons
1 large and 1 small collander
ss collapsible veggie steamer
1 7.5 gal turkey fryer pot

Equipment needed for 2.5 gallon brews:
Hydrometer
Star san
Oxy free for cleaning
Voile bag or ???

Am I missing anything important? Going to local brew shop tomorrow or Fri. Picking up my Centennial Blonde ingredients. Should I get liquid or dry yeast?

Thanks;

Bill

If you're doing Biermuncher's Cream of Three Crops, he suggests Nottingham, there might be a liquid equivalent that I don't know about but I'd just use the dry yeast.

I am making his Centennial Blonde.

Sorry I meant Centennial Blonde but just typed Cream of Three Crops.... It's still Notty

My LHBS does not carry Notty. He has a very small shop he runs part time. These are his suggestions:

Dry 05 or liquid 1056 wyeast.

Bill

1056 ive used in my blonde when fermented at lower temp 65-68 has come out great. Since this is your first attempt dont stress yourself out too much. Get the wyeast no need to make a starter since your doing 2.5 gallons the smack pack at 100 bill cells should allow this to ferment cleanly.

As for your equipment list I dont see any type of bag for BIAB or a carboy, or a 6 pack of home brew to drink? From what you have all you would really need is your 6 gal pot, Digital thermometer, ss steel stirring spoons, colander, one extra pot if your going to us it for sparging but not recommended.

Ive done b BIAB and each time I changed the way I was doing it. I would recommended that you have the volume of water to grain ratio lined out and calculate how much for boil off so you hit your 2.5 gallons. If you dont hit your 2.5 gallons keep some extra water aside and use it as top off. If your worried about sanitation by using top off water boil 2 gallons for 20 mins then add what you need before you chill it. Lastly dont be discourage if you dont hit your OG, it will still be beer!

Thanks for the tips. I do not currently have any home brew to drink. One of the reasons I want to brew 2 or 3 batches over the next week. Thinking about starting a Christmas Ale and either Biermunchers SWMBO Slayer or his Orange Kolsch. I have not checked out his Cream of Three Crops.

I have the bag under needed equipment. Buying 1 when I go to the LHBS.

Bill

US-05 and Wyeast 1056 are actually the same yeast just in different packages. You'll get more cells for less money with US-05 but they should both work out the same in the end.

Or cells less money equals more better. Poor dry yeast packet and a half cup of warm water and you're done I'm a fan of dry.

I am getting this from the LHBS:


3.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 79.91 %
0.38 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 8.68 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 5.71 %
0.25 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 5.71 %
0.13 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (55 min) Hops 9.0 IBU
0.13 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (35 min) Hops 7.6 IBU
0.13 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 3.2 IBU
0.13 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.1 IBU
US-05 yeast
Hydrometer
Star San


I want to get something else to brew. Not sure what other 2.5 gal recipe to get. Probably end up flipping a coin between Biermuncher's SWMBO Slayer or his Orange Kolsch.

Should I pick up anything else while I am there?

Bill

Do you have a way to lager the Kolsch? Typically it is brewed warm (relatively) as an ale and then lagered for a period of time to make it super clear and crisp.

Yes, I can put my LBK in my mini fridge.

Isnt a Kolsch yeast best fermented about 60 F? Then cold conditioned as cold as you can get it?

Have fun on your first BIAB my first three where a blast and less work then all grain.

I did not make it to the LHBS yesterday. Going to place online order. Midwest or Northern Brewer? Other than the ingredients for the Centennial Blonde, and star san, what else should I order?

Thanks;

Bill

madman960 said:

I did not make it to the LHBS yesterday. Going to place online order. Midwest or Northern Brewer? Other than the ingredients for the Centennial Blonde, and star san, what else should I order?

Thanks;

Bill

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I just placed an order from RiteBrew.com. I ordered in the morning yesterday and got an email that the order went out that afternoon. Tracking says it made it 2/3 of the way here already this morning. For the things I ordered, the price plus shipping was about the price without shipping at Midwest. I'll give an update when the order arrives.

Lol; sorry, I was not trying to get into which has best prices. Looking for all ingredients and other recipes. I need to brew at least 2 beers next week. Prefer to brew 3 so I can build an extended pipeline.

Placed an order from Norther Brewer.

Rahr 2-Row Malt - 1 lb. crushed C001I 8 $10.00
Briess Carapils - 1 lb. crushed C003I 1 $1.75
Briess Caramel 10L - 1 lb. crushed C004I 1 $1.75
German Vienna Malt - 1 lb. crushed C302I 1 $1.50
Cascade Leaf Hops 1 oz. HF13S 1 $2.50
Centennial Hop Pellets 1 oz. HP35 1 $2.25
Safale US-05 Ale Yeast Y014 1 $3.29
Floating Thermometer 7407 1 $6.50
Thermohydrometer 7403 1 $12.99
Star San 8 oz 7930 1 $7.99
Danstar Nottingham Ale Yeast

Did I miss anything other than a brew bag? Picking up a set of voile curtains tomorrow.

Bill

RM-MN said:

I just placed an order from RiteBrew.com. I ordered in the morning yesterday and got an email that the order went out that afternoon. Tracking says it made it 2/3 of the way here already this morning. For the things I ordered, the price plus shipping was about the price without shipping at Midwest. I'll give an update when the order arrives.

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The order arrived yesterday morning and everything seems to be as ordered. I'm keeping their website in my list of suppliers. Next time I order I will get my order in before Thursday so the order doesn't sit in the shipper's warehouse over the weekend.

Did you add a sewing machine.
You could drape the fabric into the pot. I think you will soon find that is unsat. Or get a custom BIAB from one of the members. Excellent design.

Feel free to PM me if you need any tips on sizing or stitching your bag, I've done a few
Wilser

wilserbrewer said:

Feel free to PM me if you need any tips on sizing or stitching your bag, I've done a few
Wilser

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Or just buy a bag from this guy, it will be top notch.

Wilserbrewer PM sent about sizing. Thank you. I will likely order a bag once I move to 5 gallon batches.

Safale US-05 Ale Yeast
Danstar Nottingham Ale Yeast

I ordered 2 different brands of yeast. I plan to brew 2 2.5 gallon batches. Will there be a noticeable difference with the yeast?

Bill

Also I ordered my grains milled. Should I crush them in a bag with a rolling pin?

madman960 said:

Safale US-05 Ale Yeast
Danstar Nottingham Ale Yeast

I ordered 2 different brands of yeast. I plan to brew 2 2.5 gallon batches. Will there be a noticeable difference with the yeast?

Bill

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Are you using same grain bill? If yes the answer will probably be yes two different taste. Each yeast has has its own characteristic.

madman960 said:

Also I ordered my grains milled. Should I crush them in a bag with a rolling pin?

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If they are pre crushed no worries about crushing them more you should be fine.

Yes; I am using the same grain bill.

Thank you for answering.

My order came in yesterday. Everything as it should be.

I did not realize the thermo-hydrometer was going to be so long. It is taller than my 6 gal ss kettle. Will need to find something to measure gravity. Floating thermometer looks cool. Will be brewing later today or tomorrow.

Going well. Mash is still at 150 after 45 min. Ended up putting grains in pot cause my bag was to small to fit around my pot. However; I transferred the mash to my 5 gallon water cooler. Bag fits in the cooler.

Rinsed out my paint strainer bag. Not what do I do with it? Let it dry then store in a zip lock?

madman960 said:

Rinsed out my paint strainer bag. Not what do I do with it? Let it dry then store in a zip lock?

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Yes let it dry and store it with your girlfriends other fine washables....cheers.
All kidding aside, the mash and grain side of the brewery is considered the cold side or the dirty side....no need to sanitize a grain bag....grain in itself is "dirty" and loaded with bacteria wild yeast etc....its a farm product.

once you cool the wort and ferment, thats where sanitation counts!

I did not clean the bag, just rinsed it out. Thank you.

Fermenting now. Currently in my hall closet. If it gets to warm, I will put it in the mini fridge. I do not have anything tall enough to take a gravity reading. I will order something this week.

Half batches are a great way to start! Often the vessel is not deep enough or there is floating crud. Yes, you will need a hydrometer sample tube. Sometimes hydros are packed in a thin plastic tube which melts in hot wort (experience).


Later you can consider a refractometer. The hydro will give absolute accuracy.

I am going to do another half batch using US-05. Debating if I should wait until I get the sample tube.

I will get a second hydrometer soon. I read on here that you should always have 2. However; I do not think I really need a refractometer.

Nah, get the tube. $3 to $10 The most important measuring device for brewing is a good thermometer, for the mash. Second is a hydrometer to verify the process from start to finish.

In days before the thermometer they would use animal fat - when it melted, the temp was right for mash. (Was that TMI? I can never tell.)

I am getting a tube. I have 2 thermometers. Cannot hurt to have 2 hydrometers.

Make sure you calibrate the hydrometer. I was noticing on some of my batches I was finishing around 1.018 way too high. Had to get distilled water to calibrate at 60 F or close to and it was .004 off. Two hydrometers is a little much but when you break on and need it its nice to have a spare. I would actually spend the money on getting the kits that have the different ranges. http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewery-essentials-advanced-gravity-testing-assembly.html