WAORGANY Brewing e-HERMS Brewery Build

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WAORGANY

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Apr 20, 2010
Messages
470
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Location
Northern NY
I would like to first start off by thanking everyone here on HBT for the inspiration, ideas, help, and motivation to build my e-HERMS brewery. There are too many to thank individually but I would like to give a special by name thanks to a few such as KAL, Ohio-Ed, and Tiber Brew, these are a few of the people who I think have helped many of us take the plunge. Also a special THANKS goes out to PJ for his time, dedication and attention to details, ideas, and assistance in the wiring diagram. It is the people from all over here on HBT who have helped make us all better home brewers. Without this site many of us would not be here and learning so much. So having said that thanks to txbrew, what you have here for us all to use is the best, keep up the great work. If you notice I am a Lifetime Supporter of HBT, something that I decided this year when my Premium membership came due to just pay the $$$ and help keep this site moving forward. I hope that some of the rest of you can do the same in the future, thanks.

As I progress through my build, I will try to do the best I can to document everything and keep everyone posted and use as many pics as I can as well. Thanks again for all the help and support, now in the past and in the future.

OK so here is my plan:

I started brewing back in the early 90’s and have brewed and lived all across the country. I have made extract, partial and all grain beers. I moved to my current home in 2005 and retired from the Army in 2007 and now that time and resources allowed I figured that it is time to go AG and ELECTRIC!

Single Tier e-HERMS, I will be using two used Sanke Kegs for my HLT and BK, and a 10 gallon igloo round water cooler for my MT. I am still on the fence about either a metal or wood stand, but am currently leaning towards wood. I have two Chugger Pumps, and will be building a CFC. I will be using SS where ever I can to include SS shut off valves, and cam locks. I will install a 5500W 240V - LWD – Incoloy in both the HLT and BK. I currently have some items I need and am in the process of getting everything else that I need.

I am going to run a new 240 service to a 50A SPA Panel to bring power to the system. This will be run from an additional add on box I will have installed to my main circuit box and the line run through conduit. The control panel will include the following:

Emergency Stop, PID Power Button, two Auberin PID’s, (PID/Timmer SWA 2451 and PID SYL 2352), Alarm Light Buzzer, Buttons for each pump and both elements, I will have outlets to plug in each pump, the elements and RTD temp sensors. I think the layout will be E-Stop Upper right, HLT, ALARM, BK on top, PIDS center, Pump 1 and 2 and PID power along the bottom.

Here is the great wiring diagram done for me special by PJ, (THANKS AGAIN!!!)

5902-auberin-wiring1-a11a-swa-2451-5500w


This is the space where the brewery will be placed. The hot tub will be relocated outside and the brew system placed under the window area and a counter/grain processing area on the wall. I will also be adding a vent system as well and vent to the left of the window.

5903-warogany-brewing-e-herms-brewery-space



Here are a few of the items that I have at the present:

5904-warogany-brewing-e-herms-brewery-initial-items


Thanks again for all the assistance. Like I said I have been looking, reading, thinking and designing what I want and need for some time, and now ready to head feet first and see how it goes. I will try to keep this updated as much as I can and will attempt to document things as I go. Thanks, All the best, RLTW!!! :mug:

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Basically doing the same thing right now. Brewed 2 batches with HERMS coil and gas but making the switch to electric shortly. I will follow along. Good stuff!!

P-J - You are the man and have inspired me to give this thing a go. Im sure I will have Q's as I go along. :mug:
 
WAORGANY,

Your wiring plan didn't show - so I figured I'd post it for you.

The usual: Click on the image to see a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17").




I hope this helps in your adventure.

P-J

Another thought: How about the parts order spread sheet?

Click on the image to bring up an Excel spread sheet with the parts involved. Clicking on the URL column brings you to the specific vendor and the particular part. I hope this helps anyone interested.



P-J
 
looks like a great space... I'll tag along for the build! I am working on one of my own, hopefully my boil controls are done by christmas so I can brew over the hollidays the hlt and mash controls might take a couple more months.

you can move the hot tub over to my house it might make the wife happier about me brewing lol

What is the goodyear hose? For a CFC?
 
WAORGANY,

Your wiring plan didn't show - so I figured I'd post it for you.

The usual: Click on the image to see a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17").




I hope this helps in your adventure.

P-J

Thanks PJ I couldn't have moved forward with out your help, and phone tag LOL All the best have a great weekend!

looks like a great space... I'll tag along for the build! I am working on one of my own, hopefully my boil controls are done by christmas so I can brew over the hollidays the hlt and mash controls might take a couple more months.

you can move the hot tub over to my house it might make the wife happier about me brewing lol

What is the goodyear hose? For a CFC?

I think we are keeping the hot tub, its just going to move outside to better location, hopefully under a screened in gazebo!!! Yes the Rubber Goodyear hose will be the CFC.
 
Does anyone have a good idea of the size of the metal panel box that I need to house my controls and where is a good location to source them, thanks in advance!
 
I am going to say at least 12x12x6... anything bigger will be easier to fit your components. i went 12x18x6 and it was kind of tight.

Ebay is your friend, everywhere in town was outrageous for me.
 
I am going to say at least 12x12x6... anything bigger will be easier to fit your components. i went 12x18x6 and it was kind of tight.

Ebay is your friend, everywhere in town was outrageous for me.

Thanks jt, I haven't seen much good as far as smaller sizes on ebay but I will keep looking.
 
I have seen people get it done in a 12x12x6 but I think I am going to go with a 20x20x8 to give myself plenty of room so I can grow into it. Eventually plan to go to the BCS 460. Probably overkill but should never really be restricted with whatever I want to do.
 
I have seen people get it done in a 12x12x6 but I think I am going to go with a 20x20x8 to give myself plenty of room so I can grow into it. Eventually plan to go to the BCS 460. Probably overkill but should never really be restricted with whatever I want to do.

Thanks br1dge, I think I want at least an 18 x 18 x 8 but like you said bigger can always be better rather have too much room then try to smash everything into a tight fit, thanks.
 
Good luck I hope this goes well for you because I may need someone close by to help me with my build when it is time:D
 
Good luck I hope this goes well for you because I may need someone close by to help me with my build when it is time:D

Yeah Brian when I get everything together I will call you up and you can come over and we can drink a few beers and start putting things together, or better yet put things together then drink a few beers!!! Thanks.
 
A few more electrical parts arrived today, need to find a good source for my control box, any ideas, or thoughts? Can you use a plastic en-closer for this?

6008-more-parts-pieces


6007-eherms-parts-collection-grows


6006-more-electrical-parts
 
If you are patient, you should be able to get a nice electrical enclosure box off ebay at a reasonable price. If I had mine to do over, I would use two boxes. One for all the 240 vac, high amp stuff (contactors, SSR, fuses/breakers, distribution blocks) and one for all the controllers and switches. I have seen one build on here that did that and it was very slick.
 
If you are patient, you should be able to get a nice electrical enclosure box off ebay at a reasonable price. If I had mine to do over, I would use two boxes. One for all the 240 vac, high amp stuff (contactors, SSR, fuses/breakers, distribution blocks) and one for all the controllers and switches. I have seen one build on here that did that and it was very slick.

Yeah I keep looking but there hasn't been much on there as of late. I am about ready to get cracking and lay things out and get building!! Thanks, think I will keep it all in one box for simplicity. Happy New Years! :mug:
 
What does everyone think about using one of these cases for my control panel?

Pelican 1520 http://pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1520

Interior Dimensions:
18.06" x 12.89" x 6.72"

or

Pelican 1550

http://pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1550

Interior Dimensions:
18.43" x 14.00" x 7.62"

I have a 1520 here already, just not sure how they would due with the heat? They are indestructible, (almost)...I have two mounted on my Dual Sport Motorcycle and use a larger one for work every day and they are bullet proof!!!

Never seen anyone use one before, maybe I will be the first!
 
I've never seen a Pelican, but I've heard how tough they are. What do you think it would be like cutting into it?
 
I've never seen a Pelican, but I've heard how tough they are. What do you think it would be like cutting into it?

Easy to cut...I drilled 4 holes in two each for my bags on the bike used a regular drill with bit. quick and fast could do the same for this, and use Dremel, jigsaw, or Rotozip....but would try to see if the Green Lee punch would work too? Not sure still in the idea phase looking for more input and feedback, thanks.
 
I would bet that would work well... I used something similar... not as tough on my electric build.


Yeah I saw the case that you used on your Lucky Brewery Build very nice, what is the material that you used inside it looks like fiberglass?

I like plastic. It is much easier to work with. I used this enclosure on Yoopers build.

12X12X6 Junction Pvc Box - CARE989R-UPC | Wholesale Electrical Supply Company

You should be able to get this size for $30 - $40 with some searching.

Yeah I already have a Pelican 1520 case that I got for free I think I am going to go with it. Thanks for the input.
 
Yeah I saw the case that you used on your Lucky Brewery Build very nice, what is the material that you used inside it looks like fiberglass?

Yep thats what the case was made out of with a thin aluminum shell. worked out nice and wasnt too thick for the components.
 
Well I made a bit of progress today as the first real lake effect snow hit is today. Have everything on hand or ordered for the build except for the stand still debating wood or metal? Built the manifold for MT today out of 1/2" copper pipe and fittings, will complete the line out to ss ball lock once I have those parts.



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I just have all the fittings push fitted without any solder. I used a Rotozip for all the cuts and slots. Nice and tight fits well into the MT. Each long leg are @8" and the end one with the tee heading out is 7.5" to accommodate for the space of the tee.
 

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Did you buy a full 8' section of copper pipe? This is exactly how i need to get mind done. How much water is left over in the MLT?
 
stamandster said:
Did you buy a full 8' section of copper pipe? This is exactly how i need to get mind done. How much water is left over in the MLT?

I bought 10' which was way too much probably could do it with less than half that, I will have to measure what's left. 10' was only $12 and some change at Lowes. I haven't used it yet so not sure how much will be left in the bottom. I will post that when I do.
 
I see your MLT is the same as mine, how do you plan on having the heated wort enter the MLT? I was thinking of installing a fitting in the lid with a length of silicon hose long enough to lay on the top of the mash.
 
WAORGANY said:
I bought 10' which was way too much probably could do it with less than half that, I will have to measure what's left. 10' was only $12 and some change at Lowes. I haven't used it yet so not sure how much will be left in the bottom. I will post that when I do.

I measured what was left and I have just over 68" remaining after I built it. Added a short straight section to the bulk head drain when I got my ball valves, and a small section of silicon tubing will add two hose clamps to this at some point if needed will post a pic soon. So the bottom line was that I built this with @4.33' of 1/2" copper tubing plus the tees and elbows! Just remember measure twice and cut once straight and clean and you should be ok.

Brian, do you need the extra copper for your build? Let me know!
 
Begin2Brew said:
I see your MLT is the same as mine, how do you plan on having the heated wort enter the MLT? I was thinking of installing a fitting in the lid with a length of silicon hose long enough to lay on the top of the mash.

Yeah either that or just a loose tub dropping in and the top just resting on it? I think I will brew with it a few times to tweak those things.
 
WAORGANY said:
I measured what was left and I have just over 68" remaining after I built it. Added a short straight section to the bulk head drain when I got my ball valves, and a small section of silicon tubing will add two hose clamps to this at some point if needed will post a pic soon. So the bottom line was that I built this with @4.33' of 1/2" copper tubing plus the tees and elbows! Just remember measure twice and cut once straight and clean and you should be ok.

Brian, do you need the extra copper for your build? Let me know!

As promised here are a few more pics.

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