American Strong Ale Arrogant Bastard clone

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EvilTOJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
6,393
Reaction score
72
Location
Portland, OR
Recipe Type
All Grain
Yeast
dry, neutral
Yeast Starter
recommended
Batch Size (Gallons)
5.5
Original Gravity
1.084
Final Gravity
1.020
Boiling Time (Minutes)
90
IBU
81.4
Color
15.9
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
7 days at 65º
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
14 days at 65º
I found this recipe on the internet somewhere, and I've made it in the past. If it's not spot on to the original, then it's pretty frickin close. I use pacman yeast to ferment this, but any dry or neutral yeast will work fine.

Grains

15.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row)
0.50 lb Aromatic Malt
0.50 lb Biscuit Malt
0.50 lb Caramunich Malt
0.50 lb Special B Malt

Hops
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00%] (60 min)
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00%] (45 min)
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00%] (2 min)

Mash in with 5.31 gallons of water to mash at 154º

Drain mash water
batch sparge once with 3 gallons of 180º water.
batch sparge again with 3 gallons of 180º water.


I am also including an xml sheet that can be imported into beersmith.

View attachment Arrogant Bastard.xml
 
have you tried oaking this recipe? I had the oaked bastard (don't remember if it was the double bastard or not), and it was delicious. Got it at Belmont station....lucky for my pocketbook I live far away from that place :drunk:
 
What / who's two row have you used on this? Any recommendations?


Edit:
Also, what was your mash temperature?

Oops missed that.
 
I used generic two row, I think it's Great Western ( I think?) around here. The mash temp is 154º like it says above.
 
I have a question or 2 if anyone could point me in the right direction... I am about to attempt my first AG brew and want to use this recipe - but I am a little puzzled by the recipe here. From the directions it shows to mash in with 5.31 gals and then later on 2 batch sparge's with 3 gals each?.. for a total of 11.31 gals. I know the grains with absorb some and I will lose about 1 gal during the boil.. but isn't 11.31 a little too much? Or am I missing something (most likely the case)? One other question .. what is pacman yeast that is used for this recipe (or could someone recommend another type)? One last thing.... the recipe calls for Pale Malt 2-Row ... I see Pale Ale Malt and Brewer's 2-Row ... is there a difference? Thanks in advance guys, and sorry for the questions that I'm sure are trivial for most of you. :eek:
 
You will probably collect 2.5 - 3 gallons from the first runnings, due to grain absorption, and deadspace in your mash tun. You will not lose any more from the sparge, so you should tweak your recipe to achieve the desired pre-boil volume for your system. I typically boil off ~2 gallons per hour in my kettle, so I aim to collect 7.5 - 8 gallons. If you end up a little on the high side, just boil a little longer. I think pale malt == Brewers 2 row. Never heard it called "Brewers" 2 row though.
 
After grain absorption, I get about 9.17 gallons of runoff. I don't have any deadspace in my mashtun, but I tend to have a high boiloff rate, so that's why I adjust it to such a high number. You really should boil it longer if you'll only get a gallon boiloff. I boil for 90 minutes. Just add the bittering hops when there's an hour left in the boil.

As for the malt question, I've heard it called many names, but pale malt and 2 row are virtually the same. They probably call it 'brewers 2 row' because 2 row is also used in animal feed and seed stock. So the malt they put aside for brewers is, well, brewers 2 row.

As for the Pacman yeast, it's a proprietary strain put out by Wyeast, and I like it as a good clean neutral yeast. You don't *have* to use it, any neutral dry yeast will work just fine. Nottingham or US-05 will work too.
 
thanks for the help guys, I will adjust the recipe a bit to work with my system and hope for the best. It's my first AG so I don't expect perfection anyhow (but I am hoping for it) :D Anyhow - thanks again :tank:
 
How would this do for a parti-gyle brew. I was thinking that a big beer like this would hold up to a second weak beer. Anyone got any ideas on what I should do for the second beer and if this would be a good idea?
 
This turns into a deep reddish color, so you could probably get away with making it an amber or irish ale for your partigyle. I'm not sure what hops you'd use for it though.
 
what kind of turn around time do you get on this brew, I have a big concert coming up on June 9th and was thinking this would be a great brew to bring along, do you think two months is long enough to get it drinkable in the bottle?

Thanks for the help eviltoj, its getting brewed this weekend either way!
 
I brewed this but used only crystal 120 as my only adjunct. It was pretty damn close to the original. Those chinook hops just beat the crap out of my tongue. It was heaven! :mug:
 
Oh yea, two months should be fine for this beer, as long as you have good fermentation temps. The massive hop assault on your senses should cover up any possible flaws and make you weep in fear.
 
I think I'm going to make this, brew after next. I've been wanting to try reusing yeast, so I think I'll make a nice APA and then use the yeast cake for this bad boy.
 
You will never be able to clone me.... it is both immoral and illegal!

Oh, you were talking about the beer.

my bad

carry on then
 
Sorry for the newbie question but is aromatic malt a type of malt like "crystal malt" or is it a specific malt like Munich malt?
 
O.K. guys, I think I'm going to try this one. However, I think my fermentation temps will be closer to 75F. Also, how much Notty should I use? Thanks - Dwain
 
75º is too high for most fermentation temps. Put your fermenter in a water bath. And what do you mean by 'how much nottingham'? Just use a packet, that's all you usually need.
 
wow....pardon my sarcasm, I don't remember making the above post :drunk:

So I'm brewing this today per the exact recipe! I'll be oaking it, and will post results in a couple months!
 
This is a house brew for me, except mine is 2-row & C120 only.

I brew it, I drink it, I brew some more.... just put a fresh keg into the kegorator when I got home this evening.
 
I had a friend who tried the real thing... and dumped it out!

He said he didn't care for it. I can't get it up here, so was miffed I didn't get to try it.

I've got three brews lined up, but I think I'm gonna put this in the lineup.

What if I split the batch and oaked half of it?
 
The original is pretty strong, not for the BMC crowd that's for darn sure! I say go ahead and oak half of the recipe if you want to try it both ways.

Oh, and to the poster who asked if this could be a good parti-gyle brew: I think it would! I followed the recipe, and did a THIRD batch sparge with five gallons of water to yeild about 3.5 gallons of 1.028 weak beer. I just used the last ounce of hops for that one. I'd say if you want a stronger second beer, up the base malt to 20-ish pounds and use the main mash and single batch sparge for the strong beer, and a second LARGE batch sparge for the small beer.
 
Ceedubya, it does say right on the label "This is an aggressive beer. You probably won't like it. It is quite doubtful that you have the taste or sophistication to be able to appreciate an ale of this quality and depth." And they're right! your friend probably likes fizzy yellow beer. Definitely oak half a batch of it. I've had the Oaked Arrogant Bastard, and it's quite the tasty treat. If you're worthy, that is.
 
Actually, he not a homebrewer or anything, but one of the few guys I know around here who would be flat up insulted if you offered him a BMC. Which is why I was surprised to hear his reaction to this beer.

Since I cannot buy it, my only option is to brew it :mug:
 
I am drinking a homebrew AB right now...

much better than the original.

Oaking half a batch? well then by gawd, yuo'll get oaked bastard.

AB is a house brew here. I tapped a new keg last night.
 
I've used Pacman yeast for this a long time ago, and it worked out quite well..

LOL... I just went back to see what yeast you used on this, in case I decide not to use Pacman.

I feel stoopid now.

s'okay... I'm used to it. :fro:
 
I bottled my Oaked version of this today and WOW the oak is very apparant not only in the nose but suprisingly on the palate. I hope the oakiness mellows out, but the oak does have the appeal of a nice red wine. I used about 2.5 oz of toasted oak (american, i assume, as the french oak chips were much more expensive) for one week. Any more time or quantity would be overkill. But it tastes great and I can't wait to pop one of these open in a few weeks!
 
I bottled my AB Clone about 9 days ago and curiosity got the better of me so I had to chill and crack one open. (I generally do this with all beers as validation that it did not get screwed up somehow) It tastes like AB to me. I think that this is going to be one of the regulars in my lineup. I also noticed that one bottle was not capped, but was just sitting on top of the bottle. Well down the hatch with that one also. It obviously was not as carbonated as the first but carbonation was present and it was equally as tasty. I am going to give it the obligatory month in the bottle before cracking another. I wish they sold it in sixers
 
I just racked my clone (a partial mash version of the OPs recipe bittered with German Magnum pellets) onto oak, and the hydrometer sample tasted very close, despite this having been one hell of a difficult beer to brew and ferment. My OG was quite low because I spilled a bunch of wort onto my kitchen floor (damn spigots!), and I fermented very warm (73 deg F) because my fermentation chillers were occupied by my blood orange mead.
 
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