Heating Elements?

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Nope, I don't mind at all. SD-6C... If you want the rest I can get you that to, I would just have to go and take a look. The SD series is quite nice, it took about three months of hard bidding to get it for the price that I wanted. Completely worth it though.

I would be very interested in your setup. I have been putting a lot of thought into my ekeggle for the last 4 months.
 
I would be very interested in your setup. I have been putting a lot of thought into my ekeggle for the last 4 months.

Well, My system is the midst of transformation as we speak. I am Beta testing a new brewing control module, but I can tell you how it was originally set up. I have PID that has two class C relay out puts and a type K thermocouple. I have a control box that contains the PID and a switch for the pump motor and a box for the SSR and the wiring disconnects for the heating element, the pump, and of course the main plug. The PID is connected to the SSR which is a 40amp 120V control, 40-480v output, omeron. That is the electrical.

I fill it with water, turn on the pump, and then set the temp on the PID to the strike and wait 15 to twenty minutes. Just enough time to measure out the grain and crush it. S.:rockin:
 
BrewBeemer,

Twenty one to twenty two gallons of beer at a shot, some would call that over kill. You are right, in that 11,000 watts is not a lot for that size of batch. S.

What was reply posting number 15 on page number 2 above all about? You been zapped too many times today? Come on slnies your smarter than that I know you are.

That 21 to 22 gallons is the Total Volume of the MLT and boil keggle, reread I stated it takes 18 plus gallons in the MLT (For a Imperial Russian Stout) that I want to brew at times plus still allowing some head space of 4 gallons above. Same with the boil kettle with 4 gallons of head space above during the boil. To fill to the brim of 22 gallons in the MLT and boil kettle sure sounds like a foolish idea. You not thinking before typing, just a wise crack reply or got zapped to many times today? Sorry I do not appreciate those non common sense replies. You can keep your "that over kill" for those those larger volume 55 gallon batch brewers vs normal 10 gallon brewing batches or more for up to 15 gallons net in the corny's is what I want just three full corny's at times. That "some would call that over kill" is your words. I'll give you credit on one thing, 11,000 watts is not that much power only app 35,565 BTU's from electric energy is not anything like 180,000 or 210,000 plus BTU propane burners many brewers use. Insulation on all three of my kegs will help with the lower BTU's input i'm working with. Never judge another brewers ideas be it not to your standards or way of thinking i'm not you but we all have our own different building ideas. The one common thing is bier at the end of brewing process. Done venting on another brother wireman. I.B.E.W.595 retired. Cheers brother.
 
Are you talking about stirring the wort to get a good whirlpool after the boil in order to have the cone of trub? If you are, the element will prevent a good cone.
 
I do not not run a GFCI but my kegs are all grounded and everything is grounded well. At some point I may splurge and get one but at this time I don't see a need for it.

Let's hope that you never see the need. I don't suppose you have health insurance, home owner's insurance, auto insurance, etc. either? You don't need them until you need them.
 
Thanks for the good reply, I am thinking about converting to electric, but still want to whirlpool my wort to keep the cold and hot break in my kettle. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Thanks for the good reply, I am thinking about converting to electric, but still want to whirlpool my wort to keep the cold and hot break in my kettle. Anyone have any ideas?

I have not done anything electric with my brewing, but I wonder if you could use 2 smaller elements mounted on the bottom of the kettle, diametrically opposed in a vertical mounted position and keep them out of the way enough to get a good whirlpool. Just a thought.
 
It would still disrupt the whirlpool effect, but you would be able to create a little of it. Are you that concerned with the trub getting into your primary?
 
If you went with indirect heating the inside of your keggle would be smooth for your circulation and the cold break cone build up. Add a slow rpm stir motor with flat paddle blade set 6" off the bottom causing enough wort circulation to create a cone for your clean drain off to your fermenter.

Add your available wattage and volume to one of those Boil Time Calculators for a fully electric brewing system you will see it's a totally different ball game in temp rise times vs heating with propane.
 
I'm not that concerned about break in the fermenter, but it makes it a lot easier to harvest the yeast if there isn't as much junk in the yeast cake. I also thought about making a heat stick like apparatus to stick down into the keggle for the boil. It's not quite as clean, but then I could just remove it and then whirlpool.
 
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