Brutus Ten ????

I plan to use polished keggles... or something of the like. Really, Blichmans are so outrageously expensive. I suppose that I can see where I am at $$ wise when I get the frame and mechanical portions completed, kettles will be last.

ok help guys.....


My ASCOs have three wires. 2 are red( no other stripes on it, just red) and one is black. Is that black HOT or GND?

Chimone said:

ok help guys.....


My ASCOs have three wires. 2 are red( no other stripes on it, just red) and one is black. Is that black HOT or GND?

Click to expand...

I found this. I hope it helps.

# Q: How do you wire a Red-Hat II Valve (3 wire coil)?
A: All ASCO AC/DC coils are suitable for continuous duty except where otherwise noted and are single phase.

1. RedHat II coils have 3 wires - 2 wires of the same color (i.e., red or yellow) and 1 wire green with a yellow stripe which is an external ground wire. Since ASCO coils are not polarity sensitive, connect the 2 wires of the same color to the positive and negative power supply, the green/yellow stripe wire to ground.
2. For three-phase systems, the 2 wires of the same color can be connected to any of the three phases.


Back to the top

cool thanks!

*edit

disregard

its working like a champ now.

MNBugeater said:

I got mine at Radio Shack.

Here is the one I used as the master indicator.
This was for my 4 smaller switches. They have drawers full of them if you walk into any store.

Here are a few others.

Option 1
Option 2

Click to expand...

Thats what I am looking for. I think I could put an O-ring on there before mounting it to help make it more water tight. You did mention that you fused your power before the main switch. What size fuse did you use? Really it shouldn't need to be that big would it?


P.S. this forum is not very good at notifying of replies. I have it marked to E-mail me but it does so very sporadically.

Gumby1974 said:

P.S. this forum is not very good at notifying of replies. I have it marked to E-mail me but it does so very sporadically.

Click to expand...

I have also found this to be true. I don't get any notifications on subscribed threads.

Gumby1974 said:

What size fuse did you use? Really it shouldn't need to be that big would it?

P.S. this forum is not very good at notifying of replies. I have it marked to E-mail me but it does so very sporadically.

Click to expand...

I believe it was a 15 amp fuse, but I will check. I had a difficult time deciding what size fuse to use based on where I put it, i have to check what I acutally put in in there and where it is.

+1 - notifications dont work

MNBugeater said:

I believe it was a 15 amp fuse, but I will check. I had a difficult time deciding what size fuse to use based on where I put it, i have to check what I acutally put in in there and where it is.

+1 - notifications dont work

Click to expand...

Yeah thats about what I figured. Yes I agree GFCI is very important!

I thought I read about one person who outsourced the welding to a fabricator. What's the going hourly rate for that? How many hours would it take for a fabricator to weld this? I have no welding skills, nor inclination to learn, so it makes more sense for me to outsource this and then put the other parts together myself, which seems more enjoyable. Either that or unistrut, any thought which is the better way to go (price wise)?

JeffNYC said:

I thought I read about one person who outsourced the welding to a fabricator. What's the going hourly rate for that? How many hours would it take for a fabricator to weld this? I have no welding skills, nor inclination to learn, so it makes more sense for me to outsource this and then put the other parts together myself, which seems more enjoyable. Either that or unistrut, any thought which is the better way to go (price wise)?

Click to expand...

I paid 300.00 for stainless with some drilling.

heh....

Ok well I had the whole thing up and working. And it worked good too. But of course I found that there was 2 small pinholes which LP was leaking out off. I know, I know I should of checked it sooner, but he assured me that the welds were the last thing I would need to worry about. Ass out you you and me -ASSUME- right?

So.....well I wanted to reposition the ASCOs a bit lower anyways, paint a second coat, and redo the casters, so its back at the welders. He said no later than Thursday, but we'll see.

The mock up has been done so reassembly shouldn't tale any longer than 2 hours tops. BUt it's going to be exactly the way I want it now so I guess a few more days shouldn't hurt.


On a side note....

did you know that if you take the red hat off the ASCOs, the whole assembly slides off. Is that bad?

Im working on my control panel for my brutus and I stumbled across this

http://web2.automationdirect.com/adc/Home/Home

its got all sorts of lights and gadgets that could add cool points to anyone else's rig.:rockin:

korndog said:

I paid 300.00 for stainless with some drilling.

Click to expand...

So $300 plus cost of steel?

Displaced MassHole said:

Im working on my control panel for my brutus and I stumbled across this

http://web2.automationdirect.com/adc/Home/Home

its got all sorts of lights and gadgets that could add cool points to anyone else's rig.:rockin:

Click to expand...

Cool site. I just wired mine up. I might add some lighting later. Trying to find a good way to label without silk screening.

JeffNYC said:

So $300 plus cost of steel?

Click to expand...

Yep. I bought the same stainless steel spec'd by Lonnie, but I found some 1/16th wall afterwards that was brush finished. Less weight and no polishing hassles if you can find it. Cheaper I think too. If I ever do another, I would use that.

KD

Where are yall getting your steel/stainless? If you are paying to have it welded, what are you paying??

Korndog-
You got me thinking about the whole label thing so I did a little digging and this setup looks like it can do a lot more than any dymo label make could.

http://www.etching-metal.com/etching/stainlessetching.htm

Displaced MassHole said:

Korndog-
You got me thinking about the whole label thing so I did a little digging and this setup looks like it can do a lot more than any dymo label make could.

http://www.etching-metal.com/etching/stainlessetching.htm

Click to expand...

Good find Masshole I think I'll pick one of htose up! Good for tools too.

If you do let me know, I'm curious as to how/how well it acutally works.

korndog said:

Cool site. I just wired mine up. I might add some lighting later. Trying to find a good way to label without silk screening.

Click to expand...

Very professional. Did you have to drill those holes?

korndog said:

Yep. I bought the same stainless steel spec'd by Lonnie, but I found some 1/16th wall afterwards that was brush finished. Less weight and no polishing hassles if you can find it. Cheaper I think too. If I ever do another, I would use that.

KD

Click to expand...

Where did you find brushed stainless? Local or web?

JeffNYC said:

Where did you find brushed stainless? Local or web?

Click to expand...

It was local (Los Angeles). M&K Metals, Gardena, CA.

korndog said:

Cool site. I just wired mine up. I might add some lighting later. Trying to find a good way to label without silk screening.

Click to expand...

Say Korndog - where did you get the control box? I'm assuming its NEMA 4?

Gordie

Gordie said:

Say Korndog - where did you get the control box? I'm assuming its NEMA 4?

Gordie

Click to expand...

Hey Gordie
I found it on ebay from a seller named toomanyamps. It's NEMA 4/12, and he had a bunch of SS boxes in a variety of sizes. I don't see any now, but you might write him a note. The prices were very reasonable for stainless.

KD

JeffNYC said:

Very professional. Did you have to drill those holes?

Click to expand...

I drilled some of them, but the panel was done on a mill at a machine shop.

korndog said:

thats about where i have it. i guess ill give it a shot there and see.

Click to expand...

I see you put your propane (manifold?) in separate pipes rather than in the frame as the Brutus Ten directions. Do you have a list of parts and lengths? How did you attach the pipe to the stand?

Jeff

JeffNYC said:

I see you put your propane (manifold?) in separate pipes rather than in the frame as the Brutus Ten directions. Do you have a list of parts and lengths? How did you attach the pipe to the stand?

Jeff

Click to expand...

Hi Jeff
The manifold is tack welded at the bosses on the fittings and is very solid.

Here is the cutout to the panel arm. There is a notch in the upright allowing wires to be pulled.



Here is a glimpse of the manifold. It is tacked at the rear. I used weld fittings, but if you are going low pressure, you should be able to align threaded fittings with good pipe joint compound. The box is another one from eBay holding my spark ignition modules.



Finally, a tribute to Lonnie Mac. I hope you don't mind Lonnie!



Note on wires. I pulled all wires through the frame since i didn't use the rear beam as a manifold. I used 3/4" holes to pull throuigh, but I would recommend larger. Also a good idea to deburr the holes and use heavy duty wire for the pull.

looking real good! When is the the first brew taking place?

Chimone said:

looking real good! When is the the first brew taking place?

Click to expand...

Thanks! I hope this weekend if I get the gas and spark ignition working right. I'm just waiting for my friend to bring me one valve and LP conversion kits. Can't wait!

just curious....

what you guys using for Sanke lids?

When I get that far on my build Im planning on attaching 4 washers to the cut top, and then running my return manifold / or copper tube (havnt decided return method yet) through the top of the lid and stuffing the hole with a 2 inch stopper.

If you saved the dip tube assy. from the sanke top you could cut off the dip tube, pull out the inner spring and ball bearing and you'd be left with a perfectly fitting plug that has a 3/4" hole already in it for tubing or piping.

If the hole was cut to 12" then a 12" frying pan lid works well, glass for those that want to watch inside keggle, otherwise the cheaper ss lids.

I bought my burners from Topfoodservice.com. The leak badly around the jets. Has anyone else found this to be true? One was stripped and I JB-Welded it and it's fine. I hate to have to do that an all the jets. Any low pressure alternatives out there? Thanks.

hmm....good topic


anyone know the temp rating for teflon lube? not the actual tape, but the liquid stuff?

I remember a picture from Bobby_M and it looked like he put something on his. Let me find it

*edit no luck

Rectorseal is rated to 400F for gas.

korndog said:

Rectorseal is rated to 400F for gas.

Click to expand...

is that available at HD/Lowes/Ace?

Chimone said:

is that available at HD/Lowes/Ace?

Click to expand...

Yes, most any hardware store.

You might use permatex #2, use rubbing alcohol to remove the permatex from your fingers afterwards.