SA Noble Pils

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So I'm fairly new to trying out my own recipes, but what do you think about this for hacking together a Noble Pils clone?

Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.049 SG
Estimated FG: 1.011 SG
Estimated ABV: 5.04 %
Estimated Color: 4.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 41.4 IBU
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
9.00 lb Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM)
0.75 oz Tettnang [4.50 %] (60 min)
1.00 oz Spalter [4.50 %] (60 min)
0.75 oz Hallertauer Mittelfrueh [4.00 %] (15 min)
1.00 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4.00 %] (15 min)
1.00 oz Saaz [4.00 %] (5 min)
1 Pkgs Czech Budejovice Lager (White Labs #WLP802)

I've also thought about replacing the pale malt with more pilsner malt and the crystal with carapils.


I would go with Carapils Dextrine instead of Crystal... The Carapils will give you the head retention you look for in a pilsner. I am no Jamil, but I don't think the small amount of pale malt give you much here. Someone else might disagree, but maybe best going about 60-40 pilsner to pale malt if you are going to the split the base malt. I prefer to go 100% pils as a base, but that is just me.
 
I would go with Carapils Dextrine instead of Crystal... The Carapils will give you the head retention you look for in a pilsner. I am no Jamil, but I don't think the small amount of pale malt give you much here. Someone else might disagree, but maybe best going about 60-40 pilsner to pale malt if you are going to the split the base malt. I prefer to go 100% pils as a base, but that is just me.

Yeah the pale won't do anything, but if he wants to use crystal 20 that is fine, carapils is a crystal malt as well. The 20L is used in a low enough % I doubt it'd matter too much either way.
 
I'm going to link another post with some AWESOME info about brewing this, to keep it in one place for myself :) Thanks for info Jgourd.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/sam-adams-noble-pils-clone-163003/#post1892526
1. The Noble Pils is 35 IBUs.

2. They krausen theirs as opposed to using carapils, and that's how they get the mouthfeel and head. He figured making an extra bit of wort and taking off about 1/6th of it and storing in fridge or freezer. Same for the yeast starter (1/6 in the fridge). This mixture (wort+yeast) will be added in the secondary once it's actively fermenting and will help clean up diacetyl. Now they don't use this technique to carbonate their beer, but it could be used to do so. In other words, I could lager and then add this actively fermenting yeast in before bottling (need to calculate how much). It would then carbonate without needing priming sugar or DME.

3. He suggested to put 1 oz. of each hop (5 nobles) in a cup, mix, and drop in the boil equally at 60, 15, and 0. Then dry hop with 1.5 to 2 oz. in the same way (all 5 nobles evenly split) in the secondary for about 7 days.

4. Use a docoction mash. Start with 80% of the grain and mash (ratio of 1.25 qts/lb) at 122F until conversion. Boil remaining 20% (also with ratio of 1.25 qts/lb) and add to mash tun once mash is finished to raise temp to 153F *quickly* (a point he emphasized). Mash at 153F until conversion.

5. They lager theirs for 3 weeks at 31F.
 
That's a very non traditional decoction mash.. enough so that I don't know if I'd call it a decoction.

And 122 until conversion? That'll be hours.
 
That 122 rest doesn't mean complete conversion I am sure. It says "until conversion" also after the amylase rest. I would just go for a normal 30 minute protein rest or so. Surely that's what is meant.
 
That 122 rest doesn't mean complete conversion I am sure. It says "until conversion" also after the amylase rest. I would just go for a normal 30 minute protein rest or so. Surely that's what is meant.

It is. The rest at 122 is just the protein rest. My mistake.
 
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