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I'm jealous!! Rig is looking great!

I'm hoping to be brewing new years day on my new rig if I have any luck!

Congrats, let us know how the brew turns out!
 
Ok, I hit my first snag. Transferred all the wort to my kettle, flicked the switch, and nothing happened. I mean the indicator light turned on, I heard the contractor click and my voltmeter shows there's electricity in the line, but the 4500w element isn't doing anything. As of now I've transferred all the wort back to my hlt and am using that, problem is, the element is only 2000w, so this could take a while. Thoughts on what could have gone wrong?
 
ok so my first brewday is over. I had some successes and some failures. Now its a matter of seeing how it all turns out (fingers crossed).

Successes:

1) i didnt die (i wired everything safely and correctly, phew...)
2) HLT worked well
3) MLT worked well
4) chugger pump works really well and really quietly
5) i learned what i need to do to make things go more smoothly next time

Failures/Opportunities:

1) heating element in kettle didnt work, not sure why.
2) need to plan better
3) sparge arm would be helpful
4) hop strainer would have helped
5) i think i may have scorched my wort

Main issue i'm worried about now is such; since i had to transfer all my wort back to my HLT i think i might have a) scorched my wort, the reason i think this is the case is when i was cleaning up black flecks were peeling off the element. Second issue has to do with sediment. Now the original setup had me boiling wort in the kettle and then using the built in chiller to cool the wort (water being pumped through the chiller) since i had to use the HLT as my kettle i had no way of chilling the wort other than doing the opposite of what i just described. I had cold water/snow in the kettle and pumped wort through the chiller. problem is there was a LOT of sediment in the HLT (hops and irish moss) and i had no way to filter it out. so i have a feeling that i have hops and irish moss in my chiller and pump head and most likely also in my fermenter. ai ai ai (i must say that using the chiller in this way worked really well though, dropped the temp from 212F to 81 in about 10 min)

i guess we'll just have to wait and see
 
here's an updated plan of my wiring

wiring_diagram_NEW_1_11.bmp
 
I'm trying to understand how you have the breaker wired in. Would it have been easier to just add a breaker to both hot legs post E- Stop?
 
yeah the drawing is a little weird, hard to do working on MS paint while at work, lol. basically what i have is on hot leg coming from the e-stop connected to a terminal strip. the first 2 terminals are powered directly from the input power. the next 3 terminals are connected to the first 2 via the breaker, so the breaker "protects" the last 3 connection points or in my case, my AB switches. I know my drawing is poor, when i have some more time i will have to clean it up.
 
alright so its been a few weeks since my first AG brew (well first brew in general). In that time my fermentation went smoothly, other than hops making it into my fermenter. I fermented for 9 days (my recipe called for 7 but i was away and had no choice). After the 9 days i filtered the fermented beer from one corny to a second one, came out pretty clear and got rid of the excess yeast and hops in my primary. I bottled a few bottles at this stage to take to my inlaws. At this point it was already slightly more bitter than expected, but i decided to follow the recipe as it was and dry hopped in secondary. So the first taste going from primary to secondary was good, if not a little bitter and slightly under carbonated. last wee i bottled the rest of the beer from my secondary. I had to filter again before bottling since the hop pellets i used to dry hop had all but disintegrated (even though i had them in a cheese cloth). once the beer was bottled i tasted it again and POW!!! smack in the face with hops. so it definitely turned out much hoppier than expected but i think i know where i went wrong and how to fix this next time. i have let the beer sit bottled in my fridge for a week now, and oddly enough the flavours are starting to mellow out. i think i'll let a few bottles sit for another week or two and see what happens.
 
Nice to story here. Clear up the minuses and get some pids for temperature control and you'll be making award winning beers.

AIPA's take a while to mellow out. 6-12 weeks out from bottled an they are fantastic!

Keep up the good work and keep us informed.
 
Ok so SWMBO and I just moved from Ontario to BC on wednesday (i was transfered/promoted), you should have seen the movers faces when they first saw my brewing set-up...priceless, lol. but they packed everything up no problems and now its on its way here. Now the issue that arose is such, the new place we have no longer has a workshop/storage room, and we dont have a garage either. So i'm thinking one of two things right now:

a) modify my control panel so i can just brew outside (no longer use my brewstand, which is a shame), this would entail running the power cord into the house to the stove connection (which is closer that the dryer)

or

b) buy a shed and put it in the backyard and set it up in such a was that it becomes my brewshed (problem with this option is spending the money on a shed and also running power to the shed)

we take posession of the rental in a week or so, so i will have to play around with some ideas to see what happens.

cheers!
 
ok so we're moved into our new place and are just finishing unpacking the last of the boxes of "stuff" we have. In this time i have realized that i would like to do some more small batch brewing (2 gal pilot batches to develop 3 solid recipes), especially since i no longer have a basement workshop/brewery with plenty of room. Luckily i was able to secure 4 20L kegs today for this purpose (free and legal, BOOM! i love knowing the right people). So hopefully in the next 2 weeks or so i will be able to get to working on my smaller system (the original will go into the storage space under the stairs for now). Most of the parts will be reused, as will the brewstand (currently sitting under the deck). Details to follow...
 
Still no PID's or SSR's? I can't understand why your kettle wouldn't work....it's gotta be a simple matter of continuity. Trace it back all the way to the receptacle and check for voltage and solid connections.
 
Not yet, maybe sometime in the near future, though my control panel is pretty full. As for the element in the kettle, i think you're right about the continuity issue. I picked up a meter to test it and will hopefully have a chance this weekend to do some work.
 
ok so i changed my mind on reusing most of the original parts, i ended up ordering about $400 worth of stuff this past weekend, all stainless fittings (ball valve's, bulkheads, mesh hoses) and one of those lockline sets to use as a sparge arm, new 5lb co2 tank (they wouldnt move my old one) and some other fun stuff. SWMBO has an art class saturday morning so i figure i'll be able to start work then and get some stuff done in peace, lol. I will submit pictures at the end of the weekend.
 
ok so i've made a little bit of progress on my new system between going to work, studying for my final brewing exam and spending time with SWMBO.

I built a counter flow wort chiller using the info on the wiki and the forum. It turned out pretty good, havent tested its cooling potential yet but i'm not worried since the source water (mountain water) is typically always VERY cool.

(1st picture is my new view from our new place)
(2nd picture is the copper tubing slid through the rubber hose)
(3rd picture is the soldered copper fittings)
(4th picture is the finished product, i know i should have taken more pics)
(5th picture is my "office" a.k.a. brew closet)
(6th picture is another picture of my "office" a.k.a. brew closet)

image1.jpg


image2.jpg


photo2.jpg


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photo4.jpg
 
Ok so it looks like i get to have double the fun starting VERY soon. To recap, my plan of action was going to be: build a smaller brewery (2-3gal) and brew numerous "test" batches. I put my original brewery in storage (under my stairs) and just recently started working on my newer smaller brewery (pictures below). I was going to do this since i wanted to try more recipes more frequently and since i like to build stuff, lol.

Things have changed though. It seems like my new boss and co-workers are pretty pumped that i brew beer and want to participate. So the new plan of action is such: I will take my "old" brewery out from under the stairs and move it to my coworkers shop (he has a workshop on his property which is about 20ft x 50ft. The shop has 240V connections throughout and has an unused paint room (never actually used to paint) in the back which will now be the Brewhouse (i'm thinking of naming it "Goat River Brewing", label design to follow). So i have a couple thing i need to fix on the "old" system and i have just designed and purchased parts for what will be a "conical" sanke fermenter. Conical is in brackets since it wont actually be conical, i debated getting some sheets of SS and cutting, rolling and welding it to the bottom of a keg i have, but i neither have the skill nor tools to do this so i came up with a variation of a design which i found here (pictures will be posted when i start work on it, soon).

The only issue is i will have to transport my control panel and pump between brew locations since i still want to brew at my new place with the new system i am making. But to be honest this is the least of my concerns, lol.

ok and now for some progress on the new system:

I was able to clean and cut open the keg for my kettle (using a 1/4 barrel keg). i bought a punch set from harbour freight thinking that it would be nice to use this to cut holes instead of using the step bits i have. But i ran into 2 problems, when i used the 1/2 punch it broke the bolt in 1/2 (crud!) so i finished the hole with the step bit anyways. I then figured i would try the 1" punch for the hole for my element since it had a MUCH thicker bolt. Well this time it worked, but to my shock the hole it cut was like 3/16" too big for the element. Luckily i was able to find a work around and used a silicone gasket and washer to seal the element tight enough to prevent leaking.

Once this was done i moved onto building my mash tun. I have 2 1/4 barrel kegs which have the plastic top and bottom (similar to a corny). Lets just say cutting through the plastic has been my BIGGEST pain the the arse since i started building/brewing. But i figured out a way to do it at low speed with a dremel (this way i didnt have blue plastic dust flying everywhere). I was then able to cut a hole in the top using my grinder (i find doing so freehand works the best, no need for jigs). Same as before i used a step bit to drill the hole for the valve (i still need to add my thermometer to the MT).

Ok thats enough writing for now. Pictures posted in the next post
 
so i was able to do some more work yesterday :rockin: I'm hoping that i will be able to finish everything up by the weekend so that i can brew on the weekend. We get both the friday and the monday off of work, so there should be plenty of opportunity to test the new system and make some tasty beer.

So yesterday i drilled the holes for the sight glass/thermometer combo, the in & out ports for the HERMS and the hole for the element on the HLT (pic 1). I also drilled the hole for the thermometer on my mash tun (pic 2).

I'm hoping to finish all drilling tonight/tomorrow, i still need to drill/plumb the whirlpool port on the kettle and the connection for my sparge arm on the MT. After that i just need to JB weld the elements and then its just a little clean up work to make things look nice and run a test on the system to make sure there are no leaks and everything works.

ok less talk more pictures:

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image13.jpg
 
HLT wrapped in Armaflex insulation for better heat retention. I also added the quick connects i got from McMaster Carr (high temp brass).

photo15.jpg
 
McMaster Part Numbers:

6739K59 Male coupler

6739K64 Female coupler
 
ok so some more progress was made yesterday. i finished drilling the last 2 holes, one for the whirlpool port on the BK and the second on the MLT so i can attach my sparge arm (i think my harbour freight step bits are ready for retirement, 6 keggles to date). Once that was done i plumbed the whirlpool port (brass for now, will be replaced with SS soon, ya know, keep it all BLING! lol), and attached the sparge arm. I also wrapped the MLT in armaflex to increase heat retention. Now all thats left to do is JB weld the elements into their respective PVC couplers and then test the system out to make sure everything works (unlike last time). I will be reusing my old control panel so no need to do ant work there. Hopefully i will be brewing on Monday :ban:

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I did some more work this weekend. JB welded the 2 elements (just have to screw them in and test them now). I rolled my HERMS coil (i used 3/8" copper) around my CO2 tank, so its a nice tight coil, have to finish that off today and attach it. i'm hoping to finish everything off today and do a test run to make sure everything works and there are no leaks, and the hopefully if everything is ok i will be able to brew next weekend :ban:
 
ok so here is the most recent update:

i changed the mash braid so it's looped, this way it will pick up better. I also finished the sight glass, the weldless fitting is from bargain fittings, the glass itself is from mcmaster (borosilicate) and the guarding is made from an old keg spear (i cut the gap in it with my dremel)

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hmm not sure why the second pic showed up sideways, its right way up in my picture viewer on my screen, oh well you guys get the idea.

I also installed my HERMS coil, not 100% straight but it will do for now. I also decided to use JB weld to fasten the 1" locknut right to my kettle. The reason for this is since the hole i cut for the element is too big. I used a knockout metal punch set from harbour freight and low and behold the hole is a 1/4" too big. So JB welding the locknut right on fixed the situation (says it holds to 300F, and i'll only be at 215F or so, we'll see tomorrow).

image.jpg


photo.jpg
 
ok last picture of the night, i fixed up my whirlpool diptube since the original looked like it was bent by a monkey, lol.

ok time for bed since it's Brew day Tomorrow!!!! I'm as excited as a kid on Christmas eve, lol:ban::mug::rockin:

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I would not trust the JB weld. It doesn't hold that well to flat surfaces and it can start to flake. Take a look at the soldering threads (1, 2)...that's the way I would attach the element locknut.

Since the hole is too big, you can solder the locknut to a washer and then the washer to the keg.
 
Ok so my brewday went fairly smooth. Everything worked with only a few small leaks which can be fixed fairly easily I think. The only issue I had was with keeping the mash temp where it should be, I mashed in at 165F, the ambient temp was 60F outside. When the mash temp stabilized it was 140F (low). When I sparged (i batch sparged) I did so at 200F, even then my mash temp only got up to 145F. Odd. Any thoughts?

Orangehero: the JB weld held for now, I think I will eventually solder it.
 
While checking my fermenter (corny) yesterday i realized i may have made a big mistake when i bought/stored my yeast vials. When i brought then home a week ago i stored them in the freezer and thought nothing of it. I then let them come to room temp mid afternoon on my brew day. I THINK I KILLED MY YEASTIES!!!!! sh$t!! i realized this yesterday (24 hrs post pitching) and there was zero activity in my fermenter, no krausen on top or anything. So i pitched a second vial last night in hopes that it would have some yeasties which had survived my stupidity. This morning i took a peek again and it looks like there is a little something happening. I have to head to the LHBS today and grab some more yeast (they only carry generic ale or lager stuff) and worst case pitch again before the wort gets infected or turns. Chalk one up to being an idiot....
 
While checking my fermenter (corny) yesterday i realized i may have made a big mistake when i bought/stored my yeast vials. When i brought then home a week ago i stored them in the freezer and thought nothing of it. I then let them come to room temp mid afternoon on my brew day. I THINK I KILLED MY YEASTIES!!!!! sh$t!! i realized this yesterday (24 hrs post pitching) and there was zero activity in my fermenter, no krausen on top or anything. So i pitched a second vial last night in hopes that it would have some yeasties which had survived my stupidity. This morning i took a peek again and it looks like there is a little something happening. I have to head to the LHBS today and grab some more yeast (they only carry generic ale or lager stuff) and worst case pitch again before the wort gets infected or turns. Chalk one up to being an idiot....

A similar thing happened to me recently. I ordered liquid yeast online and added a cold pack to ensure that the yeast did not get too warm. Well, the cold pack worked too well and chilled the yeast to death. The cold pack probably came out of their freezer way too cold for the yeast. It was still cold when I opened the package. I had to re-pitch a fresh vial from a LHBS.
 
Wow, just went to the LHBS to see if they had any yeast (this is a place that only carries kits). I ask the guy behind the counter if they have any beer yeast, he gives me a nondescript packet, I ask if it's ale or lager yeast, he replies..... It doesn't matter. I almost fell over....
 
ok, checked my fermenter (corny keg) today and took a sample to check the gravity, the OG was 1.041 last wednesday and today the specific gravity is 1.010. So it seems like not all my yeasties were dead. I also tasted it to see how it turned out, very light body with a nice hop finish, and almost fully carbonated (i think i could/should have got a higher OG if my mashtun was better insulated). I think it will turn into a very nice summer beer, ideal for a very hot sunny day. Going to transfer it to corny #2 probably on tuesday or wednesday and then let it age for another week before bottling.
 
ok quick update; checked my final gravity last night = 1.006. I also transfered the beer from one corny to a second, filtered in between to remove yeast (filtered with 1.0 micron filter). Tastes pretty good as of yesterday, a little heavy on the cascade but i think this will mellow out over the next few weeks.
 
alright quick update:

1) bottled the IPA, flavour wise it turned out awesome. Though had a slight issue with one of my cornies. I have a slightly shorter and fatter corny, and the liquid dip tube in it doesnt sit quite perfectly (a little wobbly). So while i was bottling i think i was picking up CO2 from the headspace and ended up foaming the crap outta my beer. I'll have to look at fixing this asap.

2) orangehero was right, JB weld does NOT hold well on flat surfaces, especially if they heat up ie. kettle at full boil. I was in the middle of a brew day yesterday and had a slight accident. I had just finished transfering all the wort from the MT to the kettle and it had started to boil (5 gal of hot wort). I was peering over the side of the kettle (from the front) and my boss who was helping me brew was looking into the kettle from the other side (back). The JB weld let go at that point and a 1" stream of hot wort came gushing out and hit him in the arm. Luckily we didnt need to bring him to the hospital (though he did go later on to get some pain medication). This was a good reminder that even though we try to be careful and do everything right, sometime accidents can still happen. I'm going to have the locknut in question welded to the kettle this week so that i can brew again this weekend. Unfortunately we didnt save the wort in time and it all ended up on the lawn. However, to my boss's credit when this all happened, his first priority was to save the beer, he didnt even think twice about the super hot liquid which had just hit him in the arm.

So just a warning to anyone else planning on or already using JB weld to fasten something to a hot flat surface...DON'T DO IT!!!!!!
 
Honestly I question my soldered fittings, I've seen JB fail under too many circumstances to trust it with boiling hot liquids.
 
i would trust soldered over JB anyday, especially after last weekend. All my other fittings are weldless and are sturdy as hell. The one which broke off is currently being welded by my guys at work, so that should prevent any future inicidents.

p.s. i was looking at the JB website and the underwater stuff is only rated to 300F, so if the stuff i used was good to 500F there is no way in hell i would use the other stuff (my 2 cents)
 
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