Alright, I'm buying a propane burner and a larger brew kettle to do full boils and maybe larger batches. I was all set on the SQ14 after reading some things, but now I'm not so sure. I've heard that the SP10 can be better. The KAB4 is also highly recommended, but above my price range. I hear the new Bayou classics come with 10 psi regulators now instead of 20. Is this a big problem? Should I be worried about the lack of wind guard on the SQ14, even though it looks sturdier? Any other suggestions?
Which Burner to buy
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william_shakes_beer
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You sound like the position I was in earlier this year when I bought my KAB4. Most threads recommend raising the burner on the KAB4 to a position closer to the pot to reduce the gas used. I have not done a boil yet, waiting for a brew weekend that isn't raining. I elected to install a wind screen to raise the perimeter of the burner housing. In general you want as much heat as you can afford. If the flame is too high you can turn it down. However, if it's opened up full and not hot enough you're SOL. Also, avoid the burners that have the safety feature requiring you to set a timer every 20 minutes.
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
I have the SQ14 and the SP10 and the individual burners on a brewstand. I have done 5 gallon batches on either of these with the stock 10 psi regulator no problem. The SQ14 is not as vulnerable to wind as the SP10 because of the burner design. They both come with 10psi regulator. If you replace them with 20+ psi regulators, they will both scream, but the SP10 is a higher BTU output overall. It is loud as hell though, like a jet engine. That's why I kept the SQ14 burner for my boil kettle, I don't want to listen to the noise for an hour.
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
I'd also point out that the stand on the SQ14 is larger, has four legs and is pretty stable compared to the smaller SP10 with three legs. Either of these are good burners, but I think the SQ14 benefits from a 20-30psi regulator because it is a little slow to boil a big batch on a 10psi. I think it is rated 55,000BTU while the SP10 is 160,000BTU. I do notice a difference, but it is not that great as those numbers make it seem. I bought an adjustable PSI regulator at Menard's for $19. Tejassmokers.com is also a great place to go to get a complete regulator/hose/orifice setup. Both of these burners have 1/8" threaded orifice openings, not the 1/4".
Probably too much info but I just went through this.
[Edit - had the wrong thread size on the orifice hole, now corrected.]
Probably too much info but I just went through this.
[Edit - had the wrong thread size on the orifice hole, now corrected.]
I have the SQ14 and really love it. I never have to keep it at full power, it seems to be fairly fuel efficient (still plenty of propane left after 5 batches), and was on sale at overstock.com when I got it. I'll be doing my first 10 gallon batch soon, so the jury's still out on that.
bk0
Well-Known Member
Are they sturdy enough for an 80 qt (20 gal) kettle? What about dual burners, I'm debating getting one so I can do BIAB on one burner and heat sparge water on the other.
I also have the SQ14. From what I've read it should even be able to boil a 10 gallon batch if I provide wind protection to send all the heat into the pot. It also helps to have a wider pot (mine is 80 quart) to minimize heat that is lost from up and around the pot. My 6.7 gal full boil for 5 gal batch only starts at like 8-9" of water depth in the pot which seems to help it boil faster and increases evaporation which helps efficiency because I can sparge with 4.5+ gallons.
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
That was the reason I had two burners, before I built a stand.
I have not used a 20 gallon pot, but the pub next to me does crawfish boils on one in what must be a 50 gallon pot so yes they are sturdy.
I think Bayou Classic does have a double-jet burner. I have not used the jet burners (they don't really have a burner, just a tube opening that fires straight up). You might check it out, I was always afraid those things would cause burning right at the point of the flame.
I can't give any advice on the others but I have the SP10 and it boils 7+ gallons for my 5 gallon brews very easily. I guess it has the 10lb regulator though I have never looked. I feel no need to change it.
It is a bit loud but I rarely need to run it wide open which is loudest.
It is a bit loud but I rarely need to run it wide open which is loudest.
I'm a big fan of heating the mash and sparge water on the electric kitchen stove and using the propane only for the boil. It's actually cheaper to heat on electric and just getting the water to 160 or 175F is not going to heat up your kitchen much.
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
I'm a big fan of not carrying around large pots of very hot water, especially when my burner is down a set of stairs. 
bk0
Well-Known Member
Well moving a half full 80 qt pot from the kitchen to the outside patio is not very fun...
Depending on water temp, you can count on 45min or so to heat 9-10 gal of strike water using an SQ14.
Is natural gas an option for you?
Dude, that is a sweet response right there! I have two of the 14s and they work great for 5 gallon batches w/ the stock regulator. I have never considered adding a 20 psi regulator though...I'm intrigued.
I do, when it's windy, wish they had burner shrouds/windshields. I have often thought about fabricating a couple myself with some sheet steel from the hardware store, but up til now, I've got by.
Does anyone have a recommendation so I can use both of these from the same tank? I looked for a y splitter, and all I found was out of stock, some sort of adapter (for smaller canister appliances) etc. Can I plumb something up myself?
ArcaneXor
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I have started doing this as well. It makes for a much more enjoyable brewday as well. I collect the runnings in a bucket to safely carry it to the burner/boil kettle.
I can only speak for the SQ-14. It is built like a tank, not much chance you overload it in terms of weight unless you're loading it with more than, I remember somewhere 400 gallons, but it is probably more like 40 gallons (weight of pot plus weight of 40 gallons of wort)
My real advice is, if you are doing 5-10 gallon all grain batches meaning you start out with ~6-7 gallons or ~12-14gallons of wort, this thing will hold up well. In both weight capability and BTUs.
Many people talk about how long it takes to get water to boiling, but they don't qualify it.
Are they talking about the time it takes to bring 10 gallons 60-80 degreeF tap temp water to a boil or bringing the same amount mash temp wort ~150F to a boil? They are not the same.
I've never tried to bring 10 gallons to a boil from an initial tap temperature because in all grain brewing there is no reason to. I have brought 12-14 gallons of hot wort to a boil in 20-25 minutes with the SQ-14.
Am I stuck on the SQ-14 or get some commission for recommending them? No. It's just that after reading many forums seems like some people are always wanting the highest and best even though it is not necessary.
If you have money to throw away, by the biggest and most expensive, high powered BTU burner available. But in my humble opinion it'll be overkill and a waste of propane and your hearing.
And as far as a wind-guard, on windy days just take some aluminum foil and place it on the offending side. If it is always windy where you brew you could come up with a cheap sheet metal defense.
onipar
Well-Known Member
With the SP10 currently $5 cheaper than the 14, would you still recommend the 14 over the 10? I'm reading along and it seems the downside to the SP10 is that it's loud, and the downsides to the SQ14 are poor wind guards and lesser BTUs?
(I'm also considering one of these two and having trouble deciding).
(I'm also considering one of these two and having trouble deciding).
I have three SQ14's (yes that is right, I said 3 of the same burner). I started with just one and it had great stability and allowed me to brew 10 gallon size sessions (starting with 12-14 gallons). I did make a wind screen for it out of cheap flashing and it does a great job for the brewing I do. I bought three of these because with one toddler and another on the way I have very few days open to brew. Thus, I run three brewing sessions at the same time. Never had a batch tip over and love these burners even when using a keggle or my 100 qt kettle.
Get the 14
If you got these together that is a great deal.
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
Homebrewing.org has a propane splitter complete with hoses but they were asking $79 last time I looked. So I built my own, but it's for a stand so it is not just a splitter. A splitter is definitely doable, the thing you'd want to do is include a needle valve for each burner so if you wanted to run them both at once you could have separate control. Check this page out, scroll most of the way down and look for part CVO250, they are a needle valve/orifice combo. Might need a hotpad to adjust these puppies!
The thing is, once you add up needle valves and adapters and orifices, it is not cheap so you see why they are charging $79 for it. But it was fun to do.
Hugh_Jass
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If you bought a tank larger than the standard 20# cylinder, it will really help the performance of the larger burner. Often times (myself included) we buy the larger burner, but don't consider the draw rate of the cylinder.
The typical propane tank associated with gas grills will only allow so much fuel to be pulled off in an hour. This limits the btu's available for the burner.
I have a couple of KAB-4s in my system. I'm considering buying a 40# or 100# tank for better performance.
Hmmmmm,,,,,,
+1
Hugh_Jass
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A quick google search yielded these results for maximum yield from 20# propane tank
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090124214947AAxUOqm
http://www.flameengineering.com/Propane_Info.html
*edit*
Looking at the 2nd link, a full 20# tank will yield 92,000 BTU @ 70 deg F. That number drops sharply to 66,000 when half full given the same ambient temp.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090124214947AAxUOqm
http://www.flameengineering.com/Propane_Info.html
*edit*
Looking at the 2nd link, a full 20# tank will yield 92,000 BTU @ 70 deg F. That number drops sharply to 66,000 when half full given the same ambient temp.
Actually if you look at the top of the chart that is a 100lb cyl and the maximum draw at various levels of lbs of propane in the cylinder(if I'm reading it right)
I know the "maximum draw" increases (which makes sense) But can you get that increase without changng the regulator?
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
I don't get it. These numbers don't match the similar table in the link provided earlier: http://www.flameengineering.com/Propane_Info.html
The linked table shows 92BTU @ 70 degrees for a 20 lb. tank. This would more match my expectation, I have run both these burners simultaneously off a 20lb tank with no loss in effectiveness.
I guess my question is, what happens if you exceed the draw limit shown? Tank freeze? Go boom?
sudsmcgee
Well-Known Member
Congrats on the SQ14. It's an awesome burner and I make 10 gallon batches in a keggle with it all the time.
That depends on how powerful your stove is. The stove I was brewing on before I got my burner took forever to get water up to a boil, so if I were in your situation I would use the burner now.
sudsmcgee
Well-Known Member
Agreed. The SQ14 can boil less than 5 gals in no time, where the stovetop takes forever at my house.
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