Does anyone have a hard plumbed water filter with a bypass?

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wildwest450

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I want to wall mount a water filter next to my utility sink. I would like to be able to use it only for brewing but still have it go through the sink faucet. Any ideas on the best way to do it? I'm sure it's simple, but i'm drawing a blank. It's new construction, so I can do whatever is necessary.
 
I've got a dual-element water filter from IsoPure on eBay. It's pretty nice, and comes with the wall mount and 2 valves.

I have the hose coming into a disconnect, then there are 2 tee's - 1 peels off to a valve with a hose connection for unfiltered water. The other goes to the other valve, before entering the filter. The output of the filter has no valve. It looks like it'll work pretty good for my rig - I can use filtered water for brewing, and unfiltered for cleaning/cooling.

I'll try to take a pic this evening...

Edit:
Are you wanting filtered water from the faucet? That would be a little different animal than what I just described...
Water into a 2-way manifold with 2 valves. One goes to the filter, the other to another manifold with 2 valves.
Filtered water would be both filter valves open, the other 2 closed.
Plain water would be both filter valves closed, the other 2 open?
 
If I had to guess? Volume! :D

He's got a nice shiny new lair in which to perform beer sorcery :ban:

Yes exactly!

I was looking to have the filter before the sink, with the ability to have the filtered water go through the faucet. Then be able to shut it off to clean carboys and kegs. This will be a dedicated brewing sink, I need water volume man! I have a rv filter now that screws to the faucet in my garage, no way in hell i'm using that in the brewshed, it's a pita!
 
lets see how this comes out.

*edit* asci art didnt work. Looking for a picture


Excuse the asci art. :) Looking at the above diagram (if you can call it that) The line on bottom left is water input, the upside down U shape above is a bypass of sorts with valves at both ends, with the filter being in the middle with valves on both ends. Open Valves on upside Down U shape portion, close valves on filter for unfiltered cleaning water. Reverse valves for filtered beer sorcery water!
bypass.gif
 
You just need a couple of valves and T's.

Split incoming supply line with a T.
One output of that T goes to a valve.
The other of that T goes into your filter.
Output of the filter goes to another valve.
The output of the two valves go back to another T.
The output of this final T connects to the sink faucet.

Open one valve and close the other to get the water you want.
 
You might want to contact Culligan or some other filter company and talk to them. If you want volume, you might need a big ass filter. They could tell you.

As far as a bypass - If your piping is exposed then just have a bypass line put in with a couple valves. That shouldn't be a problem for the plumber.
 
You just need a couple of valves and T's.

Split incoming supply line with a T.
One output of that T goes to a valve.
The other of that T goes into your filter.
Output of the filter goes to another valve.
The output of the two valves go back to another T.
The output of this final T connects to the sink faucet.

Open one valve and close the other to get the water you want.

Sounds simple:D I have the visualization skill of a tree stump. I mainly need to rough plumb this thing in. Would it work to rough in a cold water stub before the sink(where the filter will go) then stub the hot/cold at the sink?

I can do all the valves and whatnot later, after drywall.
 
You might want to contact Culligan or some other filter company and talk to them. If you want volume, you might need a big ass filter. They could tell you.

As far as a bypass - If your piping is exposed then just have a bypass line put in with a couple valves. That shouldn't be a problem for the plumber.

If I can bypass, volume is NOT a problem. I just don't want the water choked down all the time. Lower volume for filling the mashtun is fine by me.

And I am the plumber.:eek:
 
Sounds simple:D I have the visualization skill of a tree stump. I mainly need to rough plumb this thing in. Would it work to rough in a cold water stub before the sink(where the filter will go) then stub the hot/cold at the sink?

I can do all the valves and whatnot later, after drywall.

Probably... I don't really understand much plumbing terminology, so I don't know what you mean by "stub".

For your visualization impairment, here is a pic of what I was describing.
filter_bypass.jpg


Question...

are you actually plumbing the sink with hot water, too, or just cold water?

If you are only planning cold, then you could get a sink that has a faucet is really meant for hot and cold.

You could then hook up unfiltered cold to one part of that faucet and filtered cold to the other part of that faucet. So, instead of hot and cold, you get filtered and unfiltered.
 
Actually... if your filtered water is just going to be used for the brewing, wouldn't it be more convenient to have the filtered water available from a hose rather than from your sink? Do you want to lug the MLT or BK to the sink to fill it?

Maybe just tap a T onto the cold line and continue that on to the sink as normal but put a filter and a hose on the other part of that T so you can fill your tanks with filtered water without moving them?

filter_bypass2.jpg
 
Actually stub just means the 6" "stub" that sticks out of the wall you later connect supply lines to. I normally fill a 5 gallon water bottle that's marked in gallons, then dump into mashtun. It sits right in my sink. I could use a hose if necessary, but don't really want the clutter. The first diagram you posted looks like it will do the trick.

Sink will have hot and cold with separate handles.
 
If you have this whole assembly above the faucet remember to put in a high point vent (you just need another valve at the highest point) to bleed off air. If you don't have this you could get some water hammer and be unable to get the air out. May not be totally necessary as you can often run the water for a while and get all the air out but it's like $10 extra for a valve. You could also use the outlet side of the valve for a hose connection, quick disconnect, or anything else that isn't permanent.
 
If you have this whole assembly above the faucet remember to put in a high point vent (you just need another valve at the highest point) to bleed off air. If you don't have this you could get some water hammer and be unable to get the air out. May not be totally necessary as you can often run the water for a while and get all the air out but it's like $10 extra for a valve. You could also use the outlet side of the valve for a hose connection, quick disconnect, or anything else that isn't permanent.

Good reminder. I have an air chamber hooked into my system.


.
 
Obviously it is bit more effort, but you could tap the copper cold pipe before the sink and bypass the faucet altogether.

A saddle tap makes it pretty easy. http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=Self_Tap_Valve

Then run 1/4 OD poly tubing to the filter, and put a valve or some type of valve manifold on the output side of the filter.

I made a three outlet manifold in my basement brew room using a barb, 2 schedule 80 tees, 1 elbow, 4 pipe nipples, 3 ball valves, and 3 compression fittings. It feeds my kitchen sink drinking water faucet, my refrigerator ice maker, and gives me a third outlet to fill my kettle in the basement.

It goes hose-barb-tee-nipple-tee-nipple-tee-elbow, with the open tee and elbow branches facing up. Attached to each of those, nipple, ball valve, compression fitting, hose.

Good luck with it.
 
Thanks to all for their ideas. I finally just went and mocked it up. I believe this will work, I will get better valves for opening and closing. The supply line will come out of the wall, and all the plumbing will be on the surface. Not the most attractive, but functional, and will be mostly hidden under the sink.
The hard to read stuff next to the invisible valve is threaded adapter, this will allow me to attach the water supply line to the sink.

Please feel free to critique.:mug:


filter.jpg



And yes, I have mad paint skillz.


.
 
Thanks to all for their ideas. I finally just went and mocked it up. I believe this will work, I will get better valves for opening and closing. The supply line will come out of the wall, and all the plumbing will be on the surface. Not the most attractive, but functional, and will be mostly hidden under the sink.
The hard to read stuff next to the invisible valve is threaded adapter, this will allow me to attach the water supply line to the sink.

Please feel free to critique.:mug:


filter.jpg



And yes, I have mad paint skillz.


.


That piping setup will work but you should really figure out what size filter you need. It looks like you drew in a 3"x6" filter but what if you need one 4' tall?
 
That piping setup will work but you should really figure out what size filter you need. It looks like you drew in a 3"x6" filter but what if you need one 4' tall?

Ha, Ha! That's just to give my pea brain an idea of what needs to be done. It's not to scale at all, the filter i'm looking at is almost a foot tall.
 
I had the same dilemma when I moved into my apartment.
This is what I did:

I split the incoming line with a dishwasher splitter, which keeps the original line going to the faucet. The split (with compression line to 3/8th NPT) goes to a ball valve so so that I can switch it off when changing the housing filter. Before getting to the housing I have a tee with a ball valve and QD so that I can get unfiltered water instead of getting some hookup for the faucet head. Then it continues into the housing and on the out I have another ball valve with QD. Attached are some pics, might be a bit blurry since I used my iphone.

IMG_0139.jpg


IMG_0135.jpg
 
Hmmm, quick disconnects, I just happen to have some of those lying around.
Thanks for the pics!:mug:


.
 
wildwest, what kind of filter did you get, and where did you get it?

+1 looking for a cheap way to filter my water for brewing. I will be using it with a hose, but the one i saw on here (DIY) was like 80 bucks or something
 
+1 looking for a cheap way to filter my water for brewing. I will be using it with a hose, but the one i saw on here (DIY) was like 80 bucks or something

I'm looking to hard plumb a water filter onto my new brew rig build. I found a decent one (I think) at McMaster Carr here for around $29. Filters are relatively cheap to replace. Not sure about this one, as I've never used this or one like it.

wildwest, is this close to what you got?

TB
 
it looks like one to fit a hose is 35 or 39 depending on the max gpm. i would like to get the most but those filters are 20 a piece :(

I will have to compare these prices to those in the stores to see which is cheaper. i cant remember ho much they are at like home depot or something.
 
well hell. after further looking it looks like the one for a 1/2 " setup filters more water faster than the 3/4ths setup.

i may go that route then. Then again for the same price you can get one for lowes.
 
well hell. after further looking it looks like the one for a 1/2 " setup filters more water faster than the 3/4ths setup.

i may go that route then. Then again for the same price you can get one for lowes.

That's where i'm getting mine. It's just a basic chlorine filter. I think Culligan makes it.
 
This is the one I bought - 2 housings, 2 valves, mounting hardware, and you get to pick the filters you want installed :D

does that come with everything to just plug it in and work? Any need to purchase any other parts? If so that is not a bad price, if not, ill just buy it all from lowes.

In short, can i plug a hose and a line from the other side and be done, or do i need additional parts? Also, that states that it comes with valves. That will allow me to turn it off from the filter instead of going to the hose correct?
 
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i would do whatt sweet sounds recommended(for the most basic but effective set-up), a couple housings with a sediment filter followed by a Matrix CTO2 carbon block.
I have a 3 stage filter/RO housing/Deionization housing, with a booster pump. i use it for my saltwater tank. I see no point in a bypass. I make over a hundred gallons a week. You simply plumb a feed water line to the unit and you turn it on when its needed. 1/4 ro tubing and push connect fittings are great, they never leak.
 
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does that come with everything to just plug it in and work? Any need to purchase any other parts? If so that is not a bad price, if not, ill just buy it all from lowes.

In short, can i plug a hose and a line from the other side and be done, or do i need additional parts? Also, that states that it comes with valves. That will allow me to turn it off from the filter instead of going to the hose correct?

Strangely enough, it doesn't come with nipples to connect the valves to the housings :drunk:
It does come assembled, so the close nipple connecting the filter housings is already installed.

I did add quite a few parts - Tee, elbows, nipples, hose fittings, QD - Just because that's how I want it for my rig. You could just plumb it in at the cost of a couple of 39 cent fittings...

Looks like this: (First one is actually upside down ;) )
DSC_9758.JPG

DSC_9759.JPG


The top valve turns the water on and off to the filter for brewing water. The bottom valve is for the chiller, cleaning, and anything else I don't need filtered water for.

With the exception of the 2 valves, I had to purchase all of the fittings. On the up side, sch 80 PVC fittings are cheap. I might have $10 in fittings - Not counting the brass and stainless ;)
 
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