Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Scotts7 said:
Hi all,
I received a Mr. Beer LBK Kit for Christmas. I started my first batch of the supplied Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner yesterday when I got back home. I don't have a temp strip but I do have a I/R temp gun. I have aquariums and use the temp gun for more accurate readings of temps. My question is it ok to use a I/R temp gun with a laser pointer on it to check the temp of the little keg? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
I've never done it, but I know people who have. You should be able to get a good temperature reading with that.
 
IR gun works great. Remember for the first few days keep be beer under 70* if at all possible.
 
Sweet thread, although I received a kit from Brooklyn Brew Shop and not Mr Beer but I can't imagine the two being worlds apart. I'm also hoping to upgrade my equipment after 2-3 batches on this little guy. This forum is awesome so far.
 
So i bottled my first batch that came with the mr beer set i believe it was american light beet or something any who its been about four days since its been sitting in the bottle carbonating and i decided to try one to see how it tasted. It was still flat and kinda had a odd taste as you went deeper into the glass. My question is will this smooth out as it continues to sit and will it become more carbonated? All the bottles were washed with unscented soap and sanitized with star san and followed the carbonation directions that came with the kit This was my first batch and im hopping i didnt mess it up any advice would be awesome
 
It will smooth out. Best to let them carb a couple weeks. 4 days isnt really enough to carb. I normally try one after a week because Im anxious to see how they are doing. Normally they are well carbed after two to three weeks in the bottle.
 
cstrom said:
So i bottled my first batch that came with the mr beer set i believe it was american light beet or something any who its been about four days since its been sitting in the bottle carbonating and i decided to try one to see how it tasted. It was still flat and kinda had a odd taste as you went deeper into the glass. My question is will this smooth out as it continues to sit and will it become more carbonated? All the bottles were washed with unscented soap and sanitized with star san and followed the carbonation directions that came with the kit This was my first batch and im hopping i didnt mess it up any advice would be awesome
Click to expand...


It will get better. Sit on it for 2-3 weeks.
 
So I have moved on from using mr beer ingredients, but I do use it as my fermenter. For the first time, I had it overflow out of the fermenter. It didn't pop the top off and only a small amount leaked out the side. I'm not too worried about that as I am hoping that means it was pushing so much out nothing bad came in (again the lid didn't come off)

The reason I posting is to see if anyone has any experience with that happening and if there is anything I should worry about.

I am also brewing a hefe tomorrow and am worried about it doing the se thing or maybe even worse. Any tips, to avoiding it or will all be ok?

Thanks,

John
 
jdemshki said:
So I have moved on from using mr beer ingredients, but I do use it as my fermenter. For the first time, I had it overflow out of the fermenter. It didn't pop the top off and only a small amount leaked out the side. I'm not too worried about that as I am hoping that means it was pushing so much out nothing bad came in (again the lid didn't come off)

The reason I posting is to see if anyone has any experience with that happening and if there is anything I should worry about.

I am also brewing a hefe tomorrow and am worried about it doing the se thing or maybe even worse. Any tips, to avoiding it or will all be ok?

Thanks,

John
Click to expand...

I've had a couple of overflows. I actually mixed up some sanitizer, took the cap off, sanitized the cap, sanitized around the top, then screwed the cap back on. Beer came out fine. Once the most active fermentation has taken place you have alcohol so the possibility of infection is lessened.
 
azmark said:
I've had a couple of overflows. I actually mixed up some sanitizer, took the cap off, sanitized the cap, sanitized around the top, then screwed the cap back on. Beer came out fine. Once the most active fermentation has taken place you have alcohol so the possibility of infection is lessened.
Click to expand...


I just went ahead and did that. I have a little spray bottle I put some starsan in and opened it up and sprayed the top and the edge of the lid. Then I closed up really quick. I'm not too worried about it as there is still a good about of krausen and I think fermentation is still active enough to push out any oxygen that went in
 
New here so just wanted to say hi and ask a quick question.
Can you use a LME for a 5gal in a mr beer LBK? Would it turn out fine or would it be too strong? Would you use double yeast since the wort would be double for the container size?
Any input will help.
Thanks
Damien
 
I started with a MrB kit in '12. brewed exactly 3 of their HMEs by then I had read How to Brew. My 4th batch was a partial mash American Wheat. Just because I've moved on is no reason to look down on MrB brewers. Hell it's better than BMC, and they are brewing...However basically. "Different strokes for different folks."
 
I bottled my first batch of MrBeer tonight. I ordered a full setup as well as visited my LHBS last weekend. I am very excited to brew some better quality stuff. I tasted my first batch and it definitely tastes like beer, didn't impress me but I'm hoping it gets a little better after bottle conditioning in my closet and cold conditioning in the fridge. At least I can have a home brew while doing my first real 5 gallon batch...

The last bottle had tons of sediment in it and was so cloudy, all of the other bottles looked good, I had to tilt the keg to get it to fill the last one so I decided to dump it. It looked pretty disgusting and didn't figure it was worth waiting on.

I do have a question. My wife had purchased a refill kit that has two cans of extract. One of them is the Light Beer and the other a Mexican Cervesas. I don't intend to use any other MrBeer kits after those are gone but I hate to waste stuff. Could I just combine both of the ones I have left in one batch? I've heard of people doing this but wasn't sure if it would cause any major issues. I was thinking this would bring the ABV up as I suspect it is very low. I didn't have a hydrometer or refractometer to test my first batch but will have one by Thursday when I plan on brewing the last MrBeer stuff I have.

What are everyone's thoughts on this?

Thanks,

RP
 
BigDog007 said:
I bottled my first batch of MrBeer tonight. I ordered a full setup as well as visited my LHBS last weekend. I am very excited to brew some better quality stuff. I tasted my first batch and it definitely tastes like beer, didn't impress me but I'm hoping it gets a little better after bottle conditioning in my closet and cold conditioning in the fridge. At least I can have a home brew while doing my first real 5 gallon batch...



The last bottle had tons of sediment in it and was so cloudy, all of the other bottles looked good, I had to tilt the keg to get it to fill the last one so I decided to dump it. It looked pretty disgusting and didn't figure it was worth waiting on.



I do have a question. My wife had purchased a refill kit that has two cans of extract. One of them is the Light Beer and the other a Mexican Cervesas. I don't intend to use any other MrBeer kits after those are gone but I hate to waste stuff. Could I just combine both of the ones I have left in one batch? I've heard of people doing this but wasn't sure if it would cause any major issues. I was thinking this would bring the ABV up as I suspect it is very low. I didn't have a hydrometer or refractometer to test my first batch but will have one by Thursday when I plan on brewing the last MrBeer stuff I have.



What are everyone's thoughts on this?



Thanks,



RP
Click to expand...


Yes you can do that. You could do some calculations so you don't end up with an 8% light beer. But they should be fine together.
 
BaylessBrewer said:
New here so just wanted to say hi and ask a quick question.
Can you use a LME for a 5gal in a mr beer LBK? Would it turn out fine or would it be too strong? Would you use double yeast since the wort would be double for the container size?
Any input will help.
Thanks
Damien
Click to expand...


You can't do a 5 gallon batch in Mr. Beer, if that's what you mean.

You can use 1 can of LME (3.3 lbs) to make the 2.13-2.5 gallon batch. It's the perfect size.

Mr. Beer kits use 2g of yeast. I would use about 5g or half a pack of regular yeast.
 
ericbw said:
You can't do a 5 gallon batch in Mr. Beer, if that's what you mean.

You can use 1 can of LME (3.3 lbs) to make the 2.13-2.5 gallon batch. It's the perfect size.

Mr. Beer kits use 2g of yeast. I would use about 5g or half a pack of regular yeast.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info.
I was asking if the 3.3lb LME could be used in the LBK. Kinda like double the LME?
I feel like the LME that came with it is kinda weak so that's why I want to step it up a little.
I plan on visiting my LHBS to pick up some things for my next batch and plan on getting some better quality yeast. It didn't seem like the yeast that came with it was very active for very long. Major activity only lasted maybe 24hrs.
 
BaylessBrewer said:
Thanks for the info.
I was asking if the 3.3lb LME could be used in the LBK. Kinda like double the LME?
I feel like the LME that came with it is kinda weak so that's why I want to step it up a little.
I plan on visiting my LHBS to pick up some things for my next batch and plan on getting some better quality yeast. It didn't seem like the yeast that came with it was very active for very long. Major activity only lasted maybe 24hrs.
Click to expand...

One can of LME in the LBK (filled to the markings, which is 2.125 gallons) will give you an OG of about 1.055. That should get you an ABV around 5.8%. But if you fill it to 2.5 gallons, it brings it down to about 4.9%. Depends on what you want to make/drink. (You can also adjust it up a little with DME, which you can measure out in small quantities. It's harder to do that with sticky LME!)

Do you know what kind of beer you want to make next? There are many ways to make a good recipe with a can of LME, one ounce of hops, and a pack of yeast. It would be cheaper than a Mr. Beer refill kit. If you want to add steeping grains, that is also easy to do, and opens up even more possibilities.

As for yeast, you could pick up a pack of US-05 or S-04 for a few dollars. You could split that in half and get two batches out of it. Again, it depends on what you're making.

I get overwhelmed when I have too many choices, so here is a good start for a basic amber ale as an example:

1 can amber LME
1 oz Cascade hops, divided
1/2 packet of US-05

I would bring about 1.5 gallons to a boil.

Set the timer for 60 minutes, add about 1/3 of the LME and .5 oz hops.

Add the remaining hops when there is 20 minutes left in the boil.

Add the remaining LME when there is 10 minutes left.

You can follow the Mr. Beer method then of adding about a gallon of cold water to the fermenter. Then cool down the pot and add it to the fermenter. Top it up to the markings. Make sure it is cooled down to about 70 degrees before pitching HALF the packet of yeast.

Ferment in the mid-60s for 3 weeks.

That's only slightly more complex than Mr. Beer. You can easily vary it by changing 1, 2, or 3 of the basic ingredients. For instance:

You could use Fuggles hops and S-04 yeast to get a British style ale.

If you like American-style pale ales, then add another .25 to .5oz (or more) of Cascade hops when you turn the heat off.

If you like hefewiezens, then wheat LME, Hallertau hops, and WB-06 yeast.

You can also learn to play with the amount of hops AND when you add them.

If you like that, then you might start adding steeping grains to vary things as well.

This forum has a lot of recipes, including 1 gallon. But I wish there were more Mr. Beer hacked recipes posted here.

Probably the two most important things are to sanitize like your life depended on it, and then to give it time in the fermenter to finish. Especially if you're stepping it up with more fermentables.
 
I believe in the new kits (last 1.5 years) the yeast packs have been 4g.
 
ericbw said:
One can of LME in the LBK (filled to the markings, which is 2.125 gallons) will give you an OG of about 1.055. That should get you an ABV around 5.8%. But if you fill it to 2.5 gallons, it brings it down to about 4.9%. Depends on what you want to make/drink. (You can also adjust it up a little with DME, which you can measure out in small quantities. It's harder to do that with sticky LME!)



Do you know what kind of beer you want to make next? There are many ways to make a good recipe with a can of LME, one ounce of hops, and a pack of yeast. It would be cheaper than a Mr. Beer refill kit. If you want to add steeping grains, that is also easy to do, and opens up even more possibilities.



As for yeast, you could pick up a pack of US-05 or S-04 for a few dollars. You could split that in half and get two batches out of it. Again, it depends on what you're making.



I get overwhelmed when I have too many choices, so here is a good start for a basic amber ale as an example:



1 can amber LME

1 oz Cascade hops, divided

1/2 packet of US-05



I would bring about 1.5 gallons to a boil.



Set the timer for 60 minutes, add about 1/3 of the LME and .5 oz hops.



Add the remaining hops when there is 20 minutes left in the boil.



Add the remaining LME when there is 10 minutes left.



You can follow the Mr. Beer method then of adding about a gallon of cold water to the fermenter. Then cool down the pot and add it to the fermenter. Top it up to the markings. Make sure it is cooled down to about 70 degrees before pitching HALF the packet of yeast.



Ferment in the mid-60s for 3 weeks.



That's only slightly more complex than Mr. Beer. You can easily vary it by changing 1, 2, or 3 of the basic ingredients. For instance:



You could use Fuggles hops and S-04 yeast to get a British style ale.



If you like American-style pale ales, then add another .25 to .5oz (or more) of Cascade hops when you turn the heat off.



If you like hefewiezens, then wheat LME, Hallertau hops, and WB-06 yeast.



You can also learn to play with the amount of hops AND when you add them.



If you like that, then you might start adding steeping grains to vary things as well.



This forum has a lot of recipes, including 1 gallon. But I wish there were more Mr. Beer hacked recipes posted here.



Probably the two most important things are to sanitize like your life depended on it, and then to give it time in the fermenter to finish. Especially if you're stepping it up with more fermentables.
Click to expand...


What you're saying is spot on to my thinking.
The classic american light that came with it seems very light. It's been brewing 7 days and I sampled it yesterday and it tasted kinda like champaign beer at best. But it did taste like beer. I plan on bottling next Saturday.
I've been liking wheat beers lately so I think I'll do a "easy please me weiss" style next.
 
BaylessBrewer said:
What you're saying is spot on to my thinking.
The classic american light that came with it seems very light. It's been brewing 7 days and I sampled it yesterday and it tasted kinda like champaign beer at best. But it did taste like beer. I plan on bottling next Saturday.
I've been liking wheat beers lately so I think I'll do a "easy please me weiss" style next.
Click to expand...

Did it taste like the Champagne of Beers - Miller High Life?

Wheat is really perfect for extract like this because it is a simple beer to begin with.
 
Also, if you go to brewingwithbriess.com, you can use the advanced search to find extract only recipes. They have many that are built around cans of LME.
 
Hi everyone. I just finished fermenting my first batch of Mr Beer from the Deluxe kit I received for Christmas. After bottling the brew I noticed a slurry of left over yeast in the bottom of the little brown keg. Can anything be done with this solution of yeast or do most brewers discard it?
Steve
 
no_hassles said:
Hi everyone. I just finished fermenting my first batch of Mr Beer from the Deluxe kit I received for Christmas. After bottling the brew I noticed a slurry of left over yeast in the bottom of the little brown keg. Can anything be done with this solution of yeast or do most brewers discard it?

Steve
Click to expand...


Great question! You can save it in a mason jar in the fridge. Check out yeast washing on the forum. You can reuse it.
 
Hey all, first post!

First - I'm reading the Mr Beer starter thread - as much as I have time! (I work 5x 16's - 3 jobs - and little free time). (Which is why brewing is the only hobby i have time for!) I think I'm already learning. Started with a MR beer on dec 1, and I'm up to 4 1 gallon jugs fermenting now with extract kits before I've tasted more than two beers of the first Mr. Beer :D I'm only up to page 90 or so of the thread, though.

What I've learned:
0. Sanitize. (Programmers start counting at 0.)
1. Give it time.
2. From what I've read, don't bother with the 1 week rack to get off yeast (from the 1 gals). Just bottle at 2?
3. Use a blowoff tube for heavy beers.
4. Don't stick your blowoff tube too far down a one gallon carboy or you lose 2 cups at least from krausen. (Learned that all by myself, after the spillage... thank goodness it was in a plastic tub!)

So questions right now, while they're pressing...

1. You keep mentioning "when you outgrow the mr beer to big boy pants, you can still use the fermenter..." Can I safely use a Mr beer 2 gallon fermenter for a 1 gallon kit from Northernbrewer or brooklynbeershop? I'm kind of hoping as long as I don't poke at it, the co2 from fermentation should act as a buffer from the extra oxygen headspace in there, until I bottle, but I'm not sure. I need an extra fermenter! Time to buy a 5th 1 gallon, or can i use the Mr Beer for a 1 gallon kit?
2. If there's an air "gap" that filled my auto siphon tube (beer would have to "catch up", and it was a slow draw), did I just REALLY over-oxygenate my beer during rack to 1 gallon carboy after initial brew?
3. How do you measure og/fg with a 1 gallon batch? So far, winging it with a 2 week ferment for everything. Do you really draw about a cup for the "cylinder", measure with hydrometer, then return that to the 1 gallon batch? Seems risky. But not returning the liquid, I'd be 1/4 (well, ok, 1/8) gone immediately.
4. The kit instructions keep saying "use half the yeast..." as I have done. Hard to measure,though. I've been doing my best to measure half. What harm would using the whole yeast packet cause?

Edit: question 2 is silly after just shaking my jugs TO oxygenate. However, would the same scenario hurt bottling, if I haven't perfected my auto siphon skills? It was buried to bottom of jug, but the siphon seemed bad/weird.

In any case, thanks for your patience, I promise I'll keep reading! These questions just address issues I may have in this weekend's (4th in a row) brew... Brooklyn Brew Shops jalepeno ale!

Twy
 
Last edited:
twist0105 said:
Hey all, first post!

First - I'm reading the Mr Beer starter thread - as much as I have time! (I work 5x 16's - 3 jobs - and little free time). (Which is why brewing is the only hobby i have time for!) I think I'm already learning. Started with a MR beer on dec 1, and I'm up to 4 1 gallon jugs fermenting now with extract kits before I've tasted more than two beers of the first Mr. Beer :D I'm only up to page 90 or so of the thread, though.

What I've learned:
0. Sanitize. (Programmers start counting at 0.)
1. Give it time.
2. From what I've read, don't bother with the 1 week rack to get off yeast (from the 1 gals). Just bottle at 2?
3. Use a blowoff tube for heavy beers.
4. Don't stick your blowoff tube too far down a one gallon carboy or you lose 2 cups at least from krausen. (Learned that all by myself, after the spillage... thank goodness it was in a plastic tub!)

So questions right now, while they're pressing...

1. You keep mentioning "when you outgrow the mr beer to big boy pants, you can still use the fermenter..." Can I safely use a Mr beer 2 gallon fermenter for a 1 gallon kit from Northernbrewer or brooklynbeershop? I'm kind of hoping as long as I don't poke at it, the co2 from fermentation should act as a buffer from the extra oxygen headspace in there, until I bottle, but I'm not sure. I need an extra fermenter! Time to buy a 5th 1 gallon, or can i use the Mr Beer for a 1 gallon kit?
2. If there's an air "gap" that filled my auto siphon tube (beer would have to "catch up", and it was a slow draw), did I just REALLY over-oxygenate my beer during rack to 1 gallon carboy after initial brew?
3. How do you measure og/fg with a 1 gallon batch? So far, winging it with a 2 week ferment for everything. Do you really draw about a cup for the "cylinder", measure with hydrometer, then return that to the 1 gallon batch? Seems risky. But not returning the liquid, I'd be 1/4 (well, ok, 1/8) gone immediately.
4. The kit instructions keep saying "use half the yeast..." as I have done. Hard to measure,though. I've been doing my best to measure half. What harm would using the whole yeast packet cause?

Edit: question 2 is silly after just shaking my jugs TO oxygenate. However, would the same scenario hurt bottling, if I haven't perfected my auto siphon skills? It was buried to bottom of jug, but the siphon seemed bad/weird.

In any case, thanks for your patience, I promise I'll keep reading! These questions just address issues I may have in this weekend's (4th in a row) brew... Brooklyn Brew Shops jalepeno ale!

Twy
Click to expand...


Hello Twy and welcome to the addiction of homebrewing!

Just one thing before I get to your questions, a blowoff tube should not be going down into your fermenter at all. A 3 piece airlock should be used. The base is the perfect size to attach your blowoff tubing.

On to your questions!

1. You probably can, but why risk it? One more gallon of beer isn't that expensive to make. The system works best when you let it.

2. Nah, you're fine. Relax!

3. You should not return your sample to the fermenter. Too much risk of contamination. Many here will tell you they do it with no problems, but to me I'd rather just give it an extra week and not disturb it.

4. Those packets (no the Mr Beer yeast but your extract kit yeast) actually have enough yeast for a 5 gallon batch. As long as you're close you should be OK. Using the whole thing won't hurt it; just sort of a waste of money. Yeast isn't cheap!

Again, welcome to the hobby and please don't be shy with questions. We're all here to help!
 
To clarify in case anyone is wondering.
It is 8 days fermented.
No bubbles or activity to be seen in the fermenter with help of flashlight.
Hope this is not an indication of what the beer will taste like once done. If so I would prefer to dump and get a new batch started. I have a wheat recipie I want to do next and don't want to waste time.
Fermentation temp has been 68*-72*. Slight changes coming from the room being small and it tends to warm faster than the rest of the house when the furnace kicks on.
 
BaylessBrewer said:
To clarify in case anyone is wondering.
It is 8 days fermented.
No bubbles or activity to be seen in the fermenter with help of flashlight.
Hope this is not an indication of what the beer will taste like once done. If so I would prefer to dump and get a new batch started. I have a wheat recipie I want to do next and don't want to waste time.
Fermentation temp has been 68*-72*. Slight changes coming from the room being small and it tends to warm faster than the rest of the house when the furnace kicks on.
Click to expand...


It shouldn't taste sour, but no one can be sure what you're tasting. 72 is high, esp since the beer will be warmer. I would finish it, so you have something to compare.
 
ericbw said:
It shouldn't taste sour, but no one can be sure what you're tasting. 72 is high, esp since the beer will be warmer. I would finish it, so you have something to compare.
Click to expand...


What should it taste like? Maybe it's kinda cider tasting and not sour? Like I said this is my first time
 
BaylessBrewer said:
What should it taste like? Maybe it's kinda cider tasting and not sour? Like I said this is my first time
Click to expand...

The cider taste will get more noticeable the warmer you let your fermenter get. Try and keep your temps down in the low to mid 60's. You'll end up with a better beer.

The Mr. Beer LME also has a very high amount of non malt sugars that will ferment out more completely and lend a cidery flavor.

Give it lots of time. It takes, on average, 3 weeks to fully ferment, and another 2 weeks to bottle condition. When I got my Mr. Beer I remember that the directions said that you could ferment in less than a week and condition in 2 days. It simply just doesn't go that fast.

Smile, you made beer!:tank:
 
Two weeks in and it still tastes like ass. Maybe it will be better once it's conditioned and served near the freezing point! Gonna treat it like any other old hog wash and down it super cold lookin to catch a buzz.
 
Go get your self a can of LME and some hop pellets and try again. It is really easy to make good beer, it just takes attention to detail and patients! :) The Mr. beer kit in a can's can turn out all right if you throw out the instructions and follow good brewing practices.

Give this recipe a shot:

1- 3.3 lb can of pale malt extract (the non hopped stuff)
1/2 oz. perle or northern brewer hop pellets
3/4 oz. cascades hop pellets
1 packet us-05 dry yeast

Put 5 quarts water in a big pot and bring to a boil, add the can of extract and 1/2 oz of perle hops, boil hard and uncovered for 50 min., then add the cascades hops, and boil for another 10 min.. Cool in an ice bath.

Put 1 gallon cold water in your sanitized Mr. Beer keg and add the brew, straining out the hop residue. Make sure the wort temp. is below 75*F. and pitch the yeast. Place the little brown keg in a cool (below 65*F, but above 55*F) and dark place and forget about it for at least 3 weeks. It is ok to check in on it every once in a while but do not try and hurry it. After the 3 week mark, check gravity if you are equipped with a measuring device, if not make sure there is no activity in the beer and it is clear. If it is truly finished fermenting, put the LBK in your fridge for 24-48 hours.

Then prime your bottles as directed by Mr. Beer, and bottle in sanitized bottles. Or better yet, add your priming sugar to a sanitized bottling bucket and carefully mix in your beer, being careful not to splash and bottle from the bucket. Let the bottles set in a cool dark place for an additional 2-3 weeks.

Pay attention to your temps. and sanitation, and this will make you a very good pale ale, golden in color and very enjoyable. All from your Mr. Beer little brown keg!

:ban::rockin::mug: :eek:nestar::eek:nestar::eek:nestar::eek:nestar::hs:
 
Planning a trip to my lbhs tuis weekend and this is what I had in mind;
1 can Breiss Bavarian Wheat LME 3.3lb
8oz carahell
.5oz Hallerteau
1/2 packet WB-06
I plan on steeping the carahell @ 155 for 30min in 5qt water.
Add 1/2 LME bring to boil and add Hallerteau and boil 60min.
Add remaining LME @ flameout and chill in ice bath.

Pitch yeast and Ferment in interior basement room @ 65* ambient temp for 3 weeks.

Input will be appreciated
 
I would ad a flavoring or aroma hopping addition toward the end of the boil, maybe even the other half once of Hallerteau, split and added at 15 min. and flame out, and would top up to around 8-9 qt. post boil volume.
But I like hops, even in my wheat beers.
 
So i made my first batch that came with the mr beer kit and have done some reading on home brewing and for my next batch id like to try and make some Irish red ale. I was wondering if any one had a recipe for it that would fit in a 2 gallon mr beer kit =]
 

Similar threads

M
Yeast fermentation temps
Replies
20
Views
1K
mike_bkk
M
alutis05
Brewing ALL-GRAIN dark beer (lager).
Replies
9
Views
467
AlexKay
A
N
Sharing Nostalgia with the Beginners: What Was The First Beer Your Brewed?
2 3
Replies
89
Views
5K
palmtrees
palmtrees
bmac8
I'm so lost. HELLLP! Just upgraded from white buckets to 10+ gallon stainless system...
2 3 4
Replies
142
Views
5K
sibelman
sibelman
A
Mr Beer Kit Gone Wrong
Replies
14
Views
2K
pvtpublic
pvtpublic

Latest posts

Back
Top