Guerilla Brewing: Is it my bucket or the yeast?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

orangecross

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
I brewed my first batch ( a half batch 2.5gal). I did not buy a specialized fermentation tub, but used a standard 5gal white plastic tub from hardware store with a lid that is tight but does not seal airtight. I chilled my wort down to about 65degrees and pitch a packet of dry ale yeast. Gave it a vigorus stiring to aerate. Slapped on the lid fitted with a stopper and airlock. I then wrapped the edge of the lid with super duct tape to seal it to the bucket. I have it sitting is a cool dark place and have yet to see a buble after 36hrs.
What is the problem?
The bucket is only half full with wort. It is the bucket, the seal or the yeast?
 
Well, remember you've got a ton of headspace that needs to be filled with CO2 before the airlock will start bubbling, so I wouldn't worry about that. I would worry about the hardware-store bucket; even new ones have lots of little pcckmarks and whathaveyou that bacteria LOVE to hide in. Drop the $10 on an Ale Pail (nice and smooth inside), take care of it so that it doesn't get scratched, and it'll work for you for a long time.
 
Uhh...D, all of the above? Duct tape? Hardware store bucket? Did you stir it with a lawn rake? ;) Did you sanitize the bucket & lid first? What kind of yeast? Dry or liquid? If liquid, did you make a starter?

So, with this "guerrilla" brewing technique, how do you plan on bottling?
 
Everything soaked in iodophor for 1hr lid, airlock, stopper, large metal spoon, everything. I pitched a packet of dry yeast directly into the chilled wort. and this bucket is just for now. I will have the cash together to buy the basic kit at my homebrew shop in a few weeks.
 
by the time bottling comes around I will have the kit which includes bottle filling wand, bottles, caps and capper. Just wondering what is going on now.
 
orangecross said:
Everything soaked in iodophor for 1hr lid, airlock, stopper, large metal spoon, everything. I pitched a packet of dry yeast directly into the chilled wort. and this bucket is just for now. I will have the cash together to buy the basic kit at my homebrew shop in a few weeks.

Yeah, I guess just give it time. after 3 days, I'd pitch another packet.
 
the_bird said:
Well, remember you've got a ton of headspace that needs to be filled with CO2 before the airlock will start bubbling, so I wouldn't worry about that.

um, you might want to think that over again...if any CO2 is produced, it will displace the air that is in the carboy causing the airlock to bubble, unless of course it was sealed in a vacuum, which would be impossible.
 
My guess is the seal is not good. Wait a week, then maybe open it up and look for signs of fermentation.

Krausen is the sponge of awesome power that forms on the top of ales. If it dropped, you will see a dirty ring just above the beer where the krausen held on to the side of the bucket.

Since you don't have equipment, wait until you buy a hydrometer, then measure it for terminal gravity. It can sit in the primary for a few weeks without a problem, just don't go overboard and let it sit for 6-7 weeks.
 
ColoradoXJ13 said:
um, you might want to think that over again...if any CO2 is produced, it will displace the air that is in the carboy causing the airlock to bubble, unless of course it was sealed in a vacuum, which would be impossible.

Perhaps, but it always seems to take longer for the first bubbles to appear when I've undershot my target volume.

Thinking about it, though, the pressure inside the bucket has to develop to a certain level before it's going to displace the water in the airlock. So, I'm going to stand by my answer; if you had to double the air pressure, for example, it would take a lot longer for enough CO2 to be expelled by the yeast to create that amount of pressure when your volume is that large. I'm not thinking of the right terms, so I can't really explain what I'm saying... basically, the pressure of the gas has to be increased to a certain level or the airlock ain't gonna bubble, if the volume is larger, it's going to take longer for that pressure to build. You need more total gas expelled by the yeast to reach a certain PSI if the bucket is half full versus 90% full.
 
if there is some small leak letting the COs out is that cause to worry? Should I just let it go for another 3-4 days before opening it up?
 
You're most likely fine with doing that. Go get a hydrometer, they're only a few bucks, but you can use that when you open it up to tell if it's done fermenting.
 
jezter6 said:
You're most likely fine with doing that. Go get a hydrometer, they're only a few bucks, but you can use that when you open it up to tell if it's done fermenting.

but since i didnt take the orginal gravity, how can i tell if it is done?
 
Did your recipe give you a terminal gravity?

If you take 2 hydrometer readings 3 days apart, and the number doesn't change - it's done.

If it's below 1.010, it's likely done, but still good to wait 3 days to see if it drops.

The crack of the lid isn't going to hurt anything. There's a good healthy layer of co2 over the top of the brew, protecting it from most contaminates. The lid is (I know someone's going to say this is understating it, but who cares) 90% there to keep major things from coming in contact with the beer - like flies, kids, dust bunnies, etc. Sure, it helps keep air out, but the amount of air coming in is probably very little as the fermentation blows CO2 out the gaps in the lid preventing things from coming in.

Relax. It will be fine, just don't get too anxious with it. The hydro reading 3 days apart is the ONLY way to know it's done.
 
pldoolittle said:
Jezter's right on. The only note I would make is that I would call any 3 stable readings below 1.018 done. Depending on the style, you may never see 1.010

As for the krausen, shine the bucket with a flashlight. Krausen looks like scum on top of the wort. It's the hallmark of a fermenting beer. Here's some pics of krausen:

https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/browseimages.php?do=searchresults&searchid=1637

Yeah, I guess I forgot to mention that 1.010 may never be reached (I actually rarely hit it myself - usually in the 1.012-1.016 range) but I like maltier brew.
 
jezter6 said:
Yeah, I guess I forgot to mention that 1.010 may never be reached (I actually rarely hit it myself - usually in the 1.012-1.016 range) but I like maltier brew.


Me too. But, since he was new I figured better safe than sorry..
 
orangecross said:
What is a Krausen?

Krausen is the thick foam that forms on the top of the wort while its fermenting, as the beer finishes its primary fermentation, the krausen dissipates.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top