Clearing Beer

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Terry08

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I like the idea of less sediment when I bottle and as for me it was ferment then bottle. I have interpreted a secondary fermenter as a drum that the ferment is transfered to 1. Free the main fermenter and 2. to allow the beer to clear.

If this is correct how long could one leave the beer in this secondary fermenter?. Usually at this point if I were to bottle they would be clear in a week drinkable in 3.

I bought a suitable container and have already steralized it and transfered a batch that is at a specific gravity for bottleing. I can see this as a process prior to transfering to a keg but my kegs are glass and hold 720ml.

I have tried to maintain hygiene but the beer would have been exposed to greater air contact than when I bottle straight out of the fermenter.
 
Many people employ the 1-2-3 rule...

That is to say:
1 week primary
2 weeks secondry
3 weeks bottle conditioning

...with the understanding that the beer whiles now ready to drink, will continually improve with some more time, peaking anywhere between 3-6 months, longer again for higher abv beers (brewmongous beers).

I personally have bottled straight from the primary (no bottling bucket), no problem,
I have left beers in the primary for 6 weeks, no problem,
I have employed the 1-2-3 rule, no problem,

Secondry will reduce the sediment in the bottle but time will also compact the sediment to the point where a pour does not have to be a perfected art to get clear beer...

You seem to be on the right road already... Cheers :mug:

EDIT: To try answer the question about extra air contact. If you syphon carefully to avoid splashing, there should be enough residual CO2 in the brew to create a "blanket" of gas over the beer protecting it from O2. Some people with a kegging setup will purge the secondry vessel with a short burst of CO2, others wouldn't bother, either way, it can't hurt.
 
I typically give my beers 2 weeks in the secondary. It sounds like part of why you are getting sediment is due to bottling straight from the primary; have you considered using a bottling bucket?
 
For maximum clarity, I'd let the beer sit for 3-4 weeks after ranking. There will still be enough yeast to carbonate & since the beer has bulk conditioned, you won't have to wait as long in the bottle.
 
I like the idea of less sediment when I bottle and as for me it was ferment then bottle. I have interpreted a secondary fermenter as a drum that the ferment is transfered to 1. Free the main fermenter and 2. to allow the beer to clear.

If this is correct how long could one leave the beer in this secondary fermenter?. Usually at this point if I were to bottle they would be clear in a week drinkable in 3.

Aah, this is where the guns and knives usually come out. :D

I can't even answer for myself. :p It depends on the type of beer I'm doing and how clear it is out of the primary. Once it's sufficiently clear for the style and all signs of fermentation are complete, it's ready to bottle/keg.

I did a blonde ale where I did a nice long primary and a nice long secondary so it would have plenty of time on the yeast to cleanup and would be nice and clear. It's almost as clear as B/M/C despite being bottle conditioned. The schedule on that was 2-2-8 (8 weeks will be July 4th). Before that I did a hefe which was 1-1-3 and half the batch is gone already. OTOH I have a Belgian Pale in the primary right now I will go straight to the keg after two weeks, since I want some sediment in it. It's part of the style.

- Eric
 
To try answer the question about extra air contact. If you syphon carefully to avoid splashing, there should be enough residual CO2 in the brew to create a "blanket" of gas over the beer protecting it from O2.

+1. I usually get quite a bit of activity on the airlock after transferring to the carboy as the CO2 comes out of solution, so the headspace is thoroughly purged.

- Eric
 
I usually just let it sit...as long as it takes...fermentation and clearing are natural processes.

The thing is to get a lot of beer in various stages. Once you do you'll learn patience. ;)

+1. It's amazing what sitting in a keg in the garage for a month will do for clarity.
 
You won't get me debating feverishly on this one because there are many ways that work but I'll offer you my mehod. I go with something like 2-1-3. Two weeks in primary which is usually a week past active fermentation. I like giving ALL the yeast access to the beer for a quicker conditioning period. Then I crash cool the primary to about 40F for a day and transfer to secondary for one week where I leave it cold. Then it goes into the keg and get put on the gas. I try not to drink it for 3 weeks.

If you're bottling, you can do the same thing but I'd probably skip the cold crashing.
 
Gee am I gratefull to you guy's. As I have transfered from the primery(Getting the Lingo right) to the secondary after a week I will continue with the first suggestion. I will not discount the others however as I bow to your collective knowledge

1 week primary
2 weeks secondry
3 weeks bottle conditioning
Now there are some terminology I would appreciate clearing up

[ranking] ?
[B/M/C] ?
[OTOH] ?

I did get a blanket of foam as I transfered so I guess it would help keep it from getting contaminating.

One point I have it in our screen room(Open Room with Fly Screens on 3 sides)

The temperature here at the moment as it is winter went down to 3 deg c of a nightwhich would be about 40f. so it would have got a severe case of chillblains. Thankfully it rises to at least 18c in the day. By the way don't you Americans believe in metrication you will be telling me next you have miles instead of Kilometers and I shudder to think you still measure in inches. Although I did read in a post that a guy measured bleach by the glug. :)

Well if this brew does not turn out I shall be back, forget about "Beware the dog", "Beware the Aussie Brewer"

Maybe if more of the worlds population brewed beer they would be a happier more helpful mob. Maybe there should be a world brew day decreed. I will have to text our PM and maybe you could get a responce from el president'e.

You impress me all of you not in your knowledge but your willingness to offer advice and for that I say thanks. You have made me feel welcome to this community and I now feel proud to be a part.

Terry
 
ranking = TYPO, I believe he meant to type "racking"
BMC = Bud, Miller, Coors (fizzy yellow beer for the masses)
OTOH = On the other hand
I thought it was "fizzy yellow beer is for wussies"?

Actually you should not rack to the secondary until the fermentation is complete.

If the yeasts attenuation is 75% then once the OG drops 75% then it's ready to rack...technically it's beer and ready to bottle. But you don't want to do that...it's still green...:eek:

Doing a secondary allows it time to clear up and age/mellow a bit...which is a good thing. ;):D
 
Bobby_M man am I impressed you seem to have a fantasic setup. I visited your gallery.

Also you seem quite fit. I am afraid my love of beer has taken its toll. I really like to have 2 720ml bottles per day and added to a robust appitite I have changed over the years. I used to be Slim Trim and Terrific now just Terrific. Still one out of three can't be that bad.

I am currently into a glass of Munich Lager. It was a kit but very nice. My secondary contains a Australian Lager "Tooheys". One of our major brewers here. At a club Tooheys Draught will stand up to most commercial brews world wide. I also like a Dark Ale which is mid between a stout and a draught.

This is a strange country when the weather is fine like today Sunny and a warm 20deg c tonight will be 0deg c. Still we only have a month of this cold weather then it warms up. Cannot wait.

You guys will turn me into a better brewer. Bottles are the problem Stubbies 375ml are freely available on recycle night but the treasured 720ml is hard to get now. I do not like the smaller bottles as it means twice the work.

Live well and long Guy's

Terry
 
You guys will turn me into a better brewer. Bottles are the problem Stubbies 375ml are freely available on recycle night but the treasured 720ml is hard to get now. I do not like the smaller bottles as it means twice the work.

The 12 oz/375ml bottles are also deficient at keeping in the sediment, I always seem to end up with yeast in my glass when I pour from a twelver but with the bigger bottles I don't have that problem.

As much as the 22s (720s to you) cost you might consider getting some 1L fliptops. I just bought a case for my last two batches, and bottled half in those. 1L is perfect for an evening, and even if not they seal up tight and keep most of the carbonation for the next day.

- Eric
 
What about the sediment? I do decant into a jug probably loosing a couple of cc's but I do get crystal clear beer. I believe that presentation is half the enjoyment.

Also I just checked my Lager in the secondary it is clearing and tastes sweet. I think it should turn out great.

Anyone thought of having a flat beer tasting wine or 50/50 with soda water for a ultralite.
 
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