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Wonputt said:
I'm doing my first breweasy this weekend. I have the 10G gas system. I have some questions on what mash profiles to load into my software. I use the iBrew 2. Any information on grain absorption, cooling shrinkage, hourly boiloff, mash tun loss, & kettle trub loss would be appreciated. I plan on brewing a 5 gallon simple pale ale for my first trial run. Any other suggestions, hints?

Thanks! My first post on this forum.
Click to expand...

1. Grain absorption, cooling shrinkage remain the same.
2. Hourly boiloff may remain the same, subject to elevation and ambient temp.
3. MT loss is minimal, if you dump straight from mash out. I'd say about 2 cups in 10gal BE.
4. Kettle and trub loss depend on the mash, finings and hops.

Tips: Monitor your mash temp carefully. If you have a Tower of Power, your actual mash temp may vary. Also, invite a friend to clean your MT while you watch the kettle boil and add hops. :D
 
Wonputt said:
I'm doing my first breweasy this weekend. I have the 10G gas system. I have some questions on what mash profiles to load into my software. I use the iBrew 2. Any information on grain absorption, cooling shrinkage, hourly boiloff, mash tun loss, & kettle trub loss would be appreciated. I plan on brewing a 5 gallon simple pale ale for my first trial run. Any other suggestions, hints?

Thanks! My first post on this forum.
Click to expand...


Leave the lid on the mashtun as much as possible. It helps keep the temp difference between the pots near zero. With the lid off it will be 3 to 4 degrees difference.

I crush my grains to 0.045. I had a stuck sparge but my efficiency was good.
 
Lead times appear to be down for people ordering the BrewEasy. It took one week for me to receive the 20 gallon gas system without the tower of power.

My mash tun did not have a hole punched so I am waiting on getting that swapped out. I was brewing yesterday anyways so I brewed a recirculating batch with my 100 quart cooler as the mash tun. I was very pleased with the ramp times for a 12 gallon batch and I am excited to brew with the full system later this month. I have some tinkering to do but am excited to do so.
 
Most of my 10 gallon gas has arrived. About a week from order to door. Unfortunately, it looks like the pump and LTE stand were back ordered.

I was not expecting how many pieces this thing came in. Will probably take a night or two to get assembled. Dying to get some brew time in on this thing, hope that pump gets here ASAP!
 
I have the gas (propane) 5 gallon version of the Breweasy. I don't plan on getting the Tower of Power in the near future.

I plan to use the system this weekend. Just trying to plan for unforeseen events.

Help me out here:

1. Get the proper amount of water up to strike temperature in the bottom kettle. Then pump that water up to the top mashtun. Make sure the valve on the top kettle is closed so the water does not drain back into the bottom kettle.

2. With the pump off, the pump valve closed and the valve for the bottom kettle closed, add the proper amount of water to the bottom kettle and quickly heat the water to target mash temperature.

3. Add grains to top mashtun kettle. Give it a good stir.

4. Open the valve for the bottom kettle. Open the pump valve. Turn on the pump. Open the valve for the top kettle.

5. Monitor top kettle mash temperture and adjust the flame as needed to maintain target mash temperature.

Does this sound about right? Sure it's over simplified, but I'm trying to get the logic of the basic procedure correct in my head before moving any further.

Please chime in with further insight or tips. Especially, since this will be a manual method of maintaining mash temps. I can't afford the Tower or Power just yet.

Thanks.....
 
roncruiser said:
I have the gas (propane) 5 gallon version of the Breweasy. I don't plan on getting the Tower of Power in the near future.

I plan to use the system this weekend. Just trying to plan for unforeseen events.

Help me out here:

1. Get the proper amount of water up to strike temperature in the bottom kettle. Then pump that water up to the top mashtun. Make sure the valve on the top kettle is closed so the water does not drain back into the bottom kettle.

2. With the pump off, the pump valve closed and the valve for the bottom kettle closed, add the proper amount of water to the bottom kettle and quickly heat the water to target mash temperature.

3. Add grains to top mashtun kettle. Give it a good stir.

4. Open the valve for the bottom kettle. Open the pump valve. Turn on the pump. Open the valve for the top kettle.

5. Monitor top kettle mash temperture and adjust the flame as needed to maintain target mash temperature.

Does this sound about right? Sure it's over simplified, but I'm trying to get the logic of the basic procedure correct in my head before moving any further.

Please chime in with further insight or tips. Especially, since this will be a manual method of maintaining mash temps. I can't afford the Tower or Power just yet.

Thanks.....
Click to expand...

1. You could heat ALL the water in the bottom kettle and then pump to the MT on top, OR you could divide the water in half to each vessel, start cycling between both vessels while you heat until you achieve strike temp. Your choice. I just heated the bottom, and then circulated half onto the MT, and THEN doughed in. Remember to close off the valves and shut off the pump while you dough in.

2. Between step 4 and 5, remember to adjust the Auto-Sparge (AS) to about 1-2 inches above the grain bed. This step is tricky, since the water and metal will be hot, so be careful. The soft and tender skin in my armpit served as a cute reminder not to lean on the MT while doing this.

3. As for step 5, monitor both the temp AND THE VOLUME in each vessel while you recirculate. If your MT sigh glass bottoms out, you're dumping into the kettle too fast. You want the highest flow that does not empty it out before it goes back up the pump.

4. If you are manually adjusting your burner, remember to shut it off a few degrees short of your target temp. This will avoid temp overshoots, and keep your thermal mass happy.

5. Final tip: Don't drink homebrew until AFTER pitching the yeast. :D
 
BierHausPR said:
1. You could heat ALL the water in the bottom kettle and then pump to the MT on top, OR you could divide the water in half to each vessel, start cycling between both vessels while you heat until you achieve strike temp. Your choice. I just heated the bottom, and then circulated half onto the MT, and THEN doughed in. Remember to close off the valves and shut off the pump while you dough in.

2. Between step 4 and 5, remember to adjust the Auto-Sparge (AS) to about 1-2 inches above the grain bed. This step is tricky, since the water and metal will be hot, so be careful. The soft and tender skin in my armpit served as a cute reminder not to lean on the MT while doing this.

3. As for step 5, monitor both the temp AND THE VOLUME in each vessel while you recirculate. If your MT sigh glass bottoms out, you're dumping into the kettle too fast. You want the highest flow that does not empty it out before it goes back up the pump.

4. If you are manually adjusting your burner, remember to shut it off a few degrees short of your target temp. This will avoid temp overshoots, and keep your thermal mass happy.

5. Final tip: Don't drink homebrew until AFTER pitching the yeast. :D
Click to expand...

Very cool. Thanks man.

Since I will be recirculating directly from the pump into the mashtun, should I use the valve at the pump outlet to regulate flow?

I imagine calculating the mash thickness would be the standard calculation of 1.25 to 1.50 quarts per pound of grain. That would be the amount of water needed to begin with in the top mashtun kettle. Minimum. It would be okay for the water level to remain above the top of the grain but falling below would likely affect efficiency.

The rest of the water in the bottom boil kettle would amount to the difference in water to get a full pot for boil.

Which of the rubber flow control orifices would you recommend I use to begin with?
 
roncruiser said:
Very cool. Thanks man.

Since I will be recirculating directly from the pump into the mashtun, should I use the valve at the pump outlet to regulate flow?

I imagine calculating the mash thickness would be the standard calculation of 1.25 to 1.50 quarts per pound of grain. That would be the amount of water needed to begin with in the top mashtun kettle. Minimum. It would be okay for the water level to remain above the top of the grain but falling below would likely affect efficiency.

The rest of the water in the bottom boil kettle would amount to the difference in water to get a full pot for boil.

Which of the rubber flow control orifices would you recommend I use to begin with?
Click to expand...

No AutoSparge? With the AS, you fully open valves, and the AS regulates the flow, mostly.

Without it, you need to dial in the flow coming out of the kettle into the pump, or better yet, coming OUT of the pump to match the drain orifice.

I started with 1.5 GPM, but it was too fast for such a thin (26lbs of malt) grist, so I'll drop down to 1.25 GPM. You want the largest orifice that will drain without doing so too fast. I would suggest a simple water run to familiarize yourself with the flows.

I calculated water volumes in Beersmith as if I had been doing a BIAB. You need the full liquor volume, divided into 2 vessels to even them out, plus a few inches above the grain bed. The rest is BrewEasy.
 
BierHausPR said:
3. As for step 5, monitor both the temp AND THE VOLUME in each vessel while you recirculate. If your MT sigh glass bottoms out, you're dumping into the kettle too fast. You want the highest flow that does not empty it out before it goes back up the pump.
Click to expand...


Just my observation, when the sight glass bottoms out as you mentioned, ( I'm using the 1.25 orifice) I found the cause was a stuck sparge or at least a slowed one. I shut the valve in the MT off, same for the pump and stirred the grain bed all the way to the false bottom removing what feels like clumps in the grain bed.

I then waited a minute or two for things to settle, then started recirculating again.

This has happened to me on both 10gal batches so far and I never figured out on the first batch how to fix the painfully slow sparge.

On the second batch I follow the instructions that came with the kit and it worked like a charm. I found this happened right after dough in as the grains raise to sparge temps.
 
BierHausPR said:
No AutoSparge? With the AS, you fully open valves, and the AS regulates the flow, mostly.

Without it, you need to dial in the flow coming out of the kettle into the pump, or better yet, coming OUT of the pump to match the drain orifice.

I started with 1.5 GPM, but it was too fast for such a thin (26lbs of malt) grist, so I'll drop down to 1.25 GPM. You want the largest orifice that will drain without doing so too fast. I would suggest a simple water run to familiarize yourself with the flows.

I calculated water volumes in Beersmith as if I had been doing a BIAB. You need the full liquor volume, divided into 2 vessels to even them out, plus a few inches above the grain bed. The rest is BrewEasy.
Click to expand...

I forgot about that. Oops. I do have auto-sparge.

I'll conduct a simple fun using only water. Good advice!
 
mash-mongrel said:
Just my observation, when the sight glass bottoms out as you mentioned, ( I'm using the 1.25 orifice) I found the cause was a stuck sparge or at least a slowed one. I shut the valve in the MT off, same for the pump and stirred the grain bed all the way to the false bottom removing what feels like clumps in the grain bed.

I then waited a minute or two for things to settle, then started recirculating again.

This has happened to me on both 10gal batches so far and I never figured out on the first batch how to fix the painfully slow sparge.

On the second batch I follow the instructions that came with the kit and it worked like a charm. I found this happened right after dough in as the grains raise to sparge temps.
Click to expand...

What were the instructions you followed? Was your grain crush too fine?
 
For efficiency's sake, I raked the top third of the mash every 15 minutes. Got 80% mash efficiency that way in a 90 min dry saison mash.
 
roncruiser said:
What were the instructions you followed? Was your grain crush too fine?
Click to expand...


I use a 0.045 crush. It came preset on the Monster Mill.

The instructions were in with one of the Blichmann products when I opened the box, I'm not sure which one but I would guess the false bottom or one of the kettles; I'll check when I get home.

They basically said what I posted, stop circulation, stir, settle, recirculate.
 
I have a Stainless Coil that I chill my wort with, my question is how long does it take the Blichmann plate chiller to cool a 10 gallon batch. My stainless coil takes a good hour to cool a 10 gal batch. My coil is only a 3/8 diameter by 50ft and I feel an hour is too long, I want to upgrade. I found a 1/2"x 50' stainless coil or should I go with the Blichmann chiller? Does anyone have experience with the Chillzilla?
 
Using the Therminator and recirculating a 12 gallon batch took about 15-20 minutes to reach 80 degrees with 70 degree groundwater. From there I would drain into the fermenters. With excess pellet hops it could get clogged and slow things down. Also note I chose to decrease the entire batch to 80 degrees before moving to the fermenter. I could have improved times by draining directly to the fermenter to just the time to drain.
 
Highly recommend a hop spider when using the Therminator. I didn't use it during my first brew on the BE and regretted it tremendously. I spent three hours the second brew day flushing and back flushing with PBW and water before I even started mashing. Take my word for it HOP spider.
The Therminator chills my wort instantly. Great device.
 
I finally took the time to build a hop spider after brewing a PTE clone. It was worth the time and money. If I could just find a better bag that attached better to the hop spider that would be nice.
 
This solved all my trub/hop/chiller woes:

http://www.brewershardware.com/FILTER1.html

2015-03-05 18.43.16.jpg
 
strangr419 said:
Highly recommend a hop spider when using the Therminator. I didn't use it during my first brew on the BE and regretted it tremendously. I spent three hours the second brew day flushing and back flushing with PBW and water before I even started mashing. Take my word for it HOP spider.
The Therminator chills my wort instantly. Great device.
Click to expand...


Yes the action of chilling is instant but how long would it take to lower to pitching temperature, let's say for lagers?

A hop spider is a good idea as it takes a long time to whirlpool the wart and let hops settle to the bottom for the hop blocker to work correctly.

I picked up the "tea bags" to put hops in next time, I have a stainless rod that I'm going to lay on top of the pot hanging each bag from the rod with stainless wire that I bent into hooks.

Don't let the bags touch the bottom of the pot if you are a propane burner or the boil coil for electric guys as they melt easy.
 
mash-mongrel said:
Yes the action of chilling is instant but how long would it take to lower to pitching temperature, let's say for lagers?

A hop spider is a good idea as it takes a long time to whirlpool the wart and let hops settle to the bottom for the hop blocker to work correctly.
Click to expand...

I have the Blichmann Therminator. Great device. Not quite as efficient in Summer,when my groundwater is quite a bit warmer. Very efficient in Winter! Brewed today, did a whirlpool after,as is my routine, and let that stand for 20 mins, then started draining through my Therminator. One pass, and my wort was down from near boiling to 55 F. Could easily have pitched lager yeast, if that was on the menu. I'll have to look into a hop spider.
 
Rmccall95 said:
I have the Blichmann Therminator. Great device. Not quite as efficient in Summer,when my groundwater is quite a bit warmer. Very efficient in Winter! Brewed today, did a whirlpool after,as is my routine, and let that stand for 20 mins, then started draining through my Therminator. One pass, and my wort was down from near boiling to 55 F. Could easily have pitched lager yeast, if that was on the menu. I'll have to look into a hop spider.
Click to expand...

I have an immersion chiller (50'x1/2") and 2 plate chillers. Ground water temp is about 80F here in Puerto Rico. So I usually chill wort, and wait about 4-6 hours until it reaches pitching temp. I'm dying for a Therminator, but it might be just about the same than my Duda Diesel plate chiller.
 
Well, after following this thread for the past year, I ordered a 5 gal gas BE turnkey system from Great Fermentations. What a great company to deal with, I was kept well informed by Brian as to ship dates and back order issues.
I will be doing a test run and initial cleaning during the week with just water, then attempt my first all grain this weekend. The information I have gatherd for this thread has been invaluable! Thanks to all of you for taking the time to share your thoughts and experiences!

Rick
 
Hey guys,

I filmed my BrewEasy process for Great Fermentations this week. I plan on splicing it all together tomorrow night and hopefully it'll be up monday. Stay tuned!

For those of you who just got the system it will hopefully prove helpful.
 
strangr419 said:
Highly recommend a hop spider when using the Therminator. I didn't use it during my first brew on the BE and regretted it tremendously. I spent three hours the second brew day flushing and back flushing with PBW and water before I even started mashing. Take my word for it HOP spider.
The Therminator chills my wort instantly. Great device.
Click to expand...

^yes, this. I actually run a immersion chiller in a pot of ice water before the plate chiller, as our groundwater is very warm here in FL. This usually gets me down to about 72 and then my ferm fridge chills it the last few degrees til for pitching temp within 30 mins or so
 
Large thread, and I've read quite a bit of it... So here's a couple questions I have before I seriously type in my CC number for a 10 gallon gas system.

Background- I have brew all grain for a while now, I batch sparge with igloo coolers, and a single kettle. Pump involved, and hopback, with a immersion chiller. Looking to build a big single tier stand, but like the "bling" and like the smaller footprint.

I've seen different places to buy from, which do you all think is the best as of now? Great fermentations has some really positive mentions.

I've seen two different Tower of Power systems.. a "regular one" and the "LTE" one.. Any preference over one and the other?

I'm looking at the 10 gallon system, more for the ability to have the advantage of doing larger mashes for big 5 gallons batches, or large 10 gallon batches of low OG sours and session ales that I want to experiment with. I regularly do only 5 gallons batches.. will I have much trouble in mashing and boiling in the larger kettles? What about efficiency? I keep seeing it's comparison to BIAB, but with my ignorance.. will be dipping under my current batch sparge numbers? I have a MM3 mill, and mill my own grain and average an easy 72+ percent efficiency.

Step mashing.. how do you feel it is on step mashing? Do you think you could perhaps do step mashes, even something similar to a decoction mash?

Extras needed on the system: Have people added the hop blocker to the kettles? How well does it work installed from the onset of the mash, till the completed boil? I use whole hops when I can, and if it works well, I can move to them exclusive if possible. I can use bags, and even a SS 400micro hop spider if needed, but love free floating them in the kettle. How about hooking up my Hop Rocket inline. I plan to buy a plate chiller if I use this system, and want to use the hoprocket to filter, and to add the addition on hops for the hoppier brews?

Plan to buy the wheeled stand... worth it? I haven't decided if I want to brew outside the garage, or drag it all out back.. more likely, out front.. is it worthwhile to wheel around on the concrete?

All told.. do you think you make better beer, or make beer easier, or both? I'm looking at $3000 out the door for everything I need, probably slightly more when done.. I could buy the Blichman kettles, and have my stand welded and have a 2 pump system for less, maybe even a RIMS or HERMS system.. but I like the footprint.. I just don't want to essentially pay 3000 for two kettles and an extra burner that I still have to work like my current system.

Any answered questions are greatly appreciated, and I appreciate the thread as a whole.. tons of info I'm reading through, and hopefully more direct answers can be found in additional reading.
 
FATC1TY said:
Large thread, and I've read quite a bit of it... So here's a couple questions I have before I seriously type in my CC number for a 10 gallon gas system.

Background- I have brew all grain for a while now, I batch sparge with igloo coolers, and a single kettle. Pump involved, and hopback, with a immersion chiller. Looking to build a big single tier stand, but like the "bling" and like the smaller footprint.

I've seen different places to buy from, which do you all think is the best as of now? Great fermentations has some really positive mentions.

I've seen two different Tower of Power systems.. a "regular one" and the "LTE" one.. Any preference over one and the other?

I'm looking at the 10 gallon system, more for the ability to have the advantage of doing larger mashes for big 5 gallons batches, or large 10 gallon batches of low OG sours and session ales that I want to experiment with. I regularly do only 5 gallons batches.. will I have much trouble in mashing and boiling in the larger kettles? What about efficiency? I keep seeing it's comparison to BIAB, but with my ignorance.. will be dipping under my current batch sparge numbers? I have a MM3 mill, and mill my own grain and average an easy 72+ percent efficiency.

Step mashing.. how do you feel it is on step mashing? Do you think you could perhaps do step mashes, even something similar to a decoction mash?

Extras needed on the system: Have people added the hop blocker to the kettles? How well does it work installed from the onset of the mash, till the completed boil? I use whole hops when I can, and if it works well, I can move to them exclusive if possible. I can use bags, and even a SS 400micro hop spider if needed, but love free floating them in the kettle. How about hooking up my Hop Rocket inline. I plan to buy a plate chiller if I use this system, and want to use the hoprocket to filter, and to add the addition on hops for the hoppier brews?

Plan to buy the wheeled stand... worth it? I haven't decided if I want to brew outside the garage, or drag it all out back.. more likely, out front.. is it worthwhile to wheel around on the concrete?

All told.. do you think you make better beer, or make beer easier, or both? I'm looking at $3000 out the door for everything I need, probably slightly more when done.. I could buy the Blichman kettles, and have my stand welded and have a 2 pump system for less, maybe even a RIMS or HERMS system.. but I like the footprint.. I just don't want to essentially pay 3000 for two kettles and an extra burner that I still have to work like my current system.

Any answered questions are greatly appreciated, and I appreciate the thread as a whole.. tons of info I'm reading through, and hopefully more direct answers can be found in additional reading.
Click to expand...


I was in the same boat you are, and contemplated the BE for a long time. I like the clean look and the idea of a 2 vessel system. At the end of the day I couldn't justify the cost. My alternative was to buy the essential Blichmann parts (TOP and the auto sparge) and I also upgraded to a blichmann burner. I just had my first brewday yesterday and while my own personal brew process can be cleaned up to save time and increase efficiency, the system worked flawlessly! I am happy I stayed with the cooler MLT and my ever loved keggle.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426424785.078768.jpg
 
FATC1TY said:
Large thread, and I've read quite a bit of it... So here's a couple questions I have before I seriously type in my CC number for a 10 gallon gas system.

Background- I have brew all grain for a while now, I batch sparge with igloo coolers, and a single kettle. Pump involved, and hopback, with a immersion chiller. Looking to build a big single tier stand, but like the "bling" and like the smaller footprint.

I've seen different places to buy from, which do you all think is the best as of now? Great fermentations has some really positive mentions.

I've seen two different Tower of Power systems.. a "regular one" and the "LTE" one.. Any preference over one and the other?

I'm looking at the 10 gallon system, more for the ability to have the advantage of doing larger mashes for big 5 gallons batches, or large 10 gallon batches of low OG sours and session ales that I want to experiment with. I regularly do only 5 gallons batches.. will I have much trouble in mashing and boiling in the larger kettles? What about efficiency? I keep seeing it's comparison to BIAB, but with my ignorance.. will be dipping under my current batch sparge numbers? I have a MM3 mill, and mill my own grain and average an easy 72+ percent efficiency.

Step mashing.. how do you feel it is on step mashing? Do you think you could perhaps do step mashes, even something similar to a decoction mash?

Extras needed on the system: Have people added the hop blocker to the kettles? How well does it work installed from the onset of the mash, till the completed boil? I use whole hops when I can, and if it works well, I can move to them exclusive if possible. I can use bags, and even a SS 400micro hop spider if needed, but love free floating them in the kettle. How about hooking up my Hop Rocket inline. I plan to buy a plate chiller if I use this system, and want to use the hoprocket to filter, and to add the addition on hops for the hoppier brews?

Plan to buy the wheeled stand... worth it? I haven't decided if I want to brew outside the garage, or drag it all out back.. more likely, out front.. is it worthwhile to wheel around on the concrete?

All told.. do you think you make better beer, or make beer easier, or both? I'm looking at $3000 out the door for everything I need, probably slightly more when done.. I could buy the Blichman kettles, and have my stand welded and have a 2 pump system for less, maybe even a RIMS or HERMS system.. but I like the footprint.. I just don't want to essentially pay 3000 for two kettles and an extra burner that I still have to work like my current system.

Any answered questions are greatly appreciated, and I appreciate the thread as a whole.. tons of info I'm reading through, and hopefully more direct answers can be found in additional reading.
Click to expand...


I was in the same boat you are, and contemplated the BE for a long time. I like the clean look and the idea of a 2 vessel system. At the end of the day I couldn't justify the cost. My alternative was to buy the essential Blichmann parts (TOP and the auto sparge) and I also upgraded to a blichmann burner. I just had my first brewday yesterday and while my own personal brew process can be cleaned up to save time and increase efficiency, the system worked flawlessly! I am happy I stayed with the cooler MLT and my ever loved keggle.
 
FATC1TY said:
Large thread, and I've read quite a bit of it... So here's a couple questions I have before I seriously type in my CC number for a 10 gallon gas system.

Background- I have brew all grain for a while now, I batch sparge with igloo coolers, and a single kettle. Pump involved, and hopback, with a immersion chiller. Looking to build a big single tier stand, but like the "bling" and like the smaller footprint.

I've seen different places to buy from, which do you all think is the best as of now? Great fermentations has some really positive mentions.

I've seen two different Tower of Power systems.. a "regular one" and the "LTE" one.. Any preference over one and the other?

I'm looking at the 10 gallon system, more for the ability to have the advantage of doing larger mashes for big 5 gallons batches, or large 10 gallon batches of low OG sours and session ales that I want to experiment with. I regularly do only 5 gallons batches.. will I have much trouble in mashing and boiling in the larger kettles? What about efficiency? I keep seeing it's comparison to BIAB, but with my ignorance.. will be dipping under my current batch sparge numbers? I have a MM3 mill, and mill my own grain and average an easy 72+ percent efficiency.

Step mashing.. how do you feel it is on step mashing? Do you think you could perhaps do step mashes, even something similar to a decoction mash?

Extras needed on the system: Have people added the hop blocker to the kettles? How well does it work installed from the onset of the mash, till the completed boil? I use whole hops when I can, and if it works well, I can move to them exclusive if possible. I can use bags, and even a SS 400micro hop spider if needed, but love free floating them in the kettle. How about hooking up my Hop Rocket inline. I plan to buy a plate chiller if I use this system, and want to use the hoprocket to filter, and to add the addition on hops for the hoppier brews?

Plan to buy the wheeled stand... worth it? I haven't decided if I want to brew outside the garage, or drag it all out back.. more likely, out front.. is it worthwhile to wheel around on the concrete?

All told.. do you think you make better beer, or make beer easier, or both? I'm looking at $3000 out the door for everything I need, probably slightly more when done.. I could buy the Blichman kettles, and have my stand welded and have a 2 pump system for less, maybe even a RIMS or HERMS system.. but I like the footprint.. I just don't want to essentially pay 3000 for two kettles and an extra burner that I still have to work like my current system.

Any answered questions are greatly appreciated, and I appreciate the thread as a whole.. tons of info I'm reading through, and hopefully more direct answers can be found in additional reading.
Click to expand...


I was in the same boat you are, and contemplated the BE for a long time. I like the clean look and the idea of a 2 vessel system. At the end of the day I couldn't justify the cost. My alternative was to buy the essential Blichmann parts (TOP and the auto sparge) and I also upgraded to a blichmann burner. I just had my first brewday yesterday and while my own personal brew process can be cleaned up to save time and increase efficiency, the system worked flawlessly! I am happy I stayed with the cooler MLT and my ever loved keggle. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426431765.548847.jpg
 
flokason said:
Well I did not check the pH with a meter. I used the EZ water spreadsheet to calculate the water additions, the spreadsheet calculates the estimated pH value witch I mentioned.


Maybe some day I'll buy a pH meter

I'll be looking forward to your write up and video

I really appreciated all the things you have written here as well as the youtube timelaps video

Here are two photos from my first brew, first one I'm still mashing, the late one I have finished everything, the the beer is fermenting there
Click to expand...


http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachm...blichmann-breweasy-2015-03-01-02.39.32-1-.jpg
I was scrolling down the page quickly and first impression of the fermentation chamber picture was a robot knight. :off:
 
BierHausPR said:
This solved all my trub/hop/chiller woes:

http://www.brewershardware.com/FILTER1.html
Click to expand...


+1

I have one of those hanging off my TOP (what we affectionately refer to as "Das Beer Dialysis Machine" around here.

I am also using a MoreBeer kettle Spider (http://www.morebeer.com/products/kettle-spider.html) with a 4" Tri-clover fitting to hold the hop bag on (pretty slick actually).

Between the spider and circulating hot wort through the Brewer's Hardware filter and plate chillers (returned through a second valve at the bottom of the boil kettle to form a whirlpool), my wort is hitting the chillers and fermentor pretty dog-gone clean (and at lager pitching temperatures if I circulate ice water through the second chiller).

M
 
BierHausPR said:
I have an immersion chiller (50'x1/2") and 2 plate chillers. Ground water temp is about 80F here in Puerto Rico. So I usually chill wort, and wait about 4-6 hours until it reaches pitching temp. I'm dying for a Therminator, but it might be just about the same than my Duda Diesel plate chiller.
Click to expand...

I know the feeling. I'm in sunny SoFla and the water table gets pretty warm in the summer months. So this weekend I set up my immersion chiller in an 5 gallon bucket filled with ice water and connected it to the ground supply hose and ran that through the immersion chiller then out to the plate chiller (to the water in connection) and it worked like a charm. All I needed was to set up two female connections on the immersion chiller to allow it to be connected both to my hose/groundwater then to the Therminator. Wort was immediately at 75* coming through the Therminator. Pitched instantly upon filling my fermentors.
 
mash-mongrel said:
I have a Stainless Coil that I chill my wort with, my question is how long does it take the Blichmann plate chiller to cool a 10 gallon batch. My stainless coil takes a good hour to cool a 10 gal batch. My coil is only a 3/8 diameter by 50ft and I feel an hour is too long, I want to upgrade. I found a 1/2"x 50' stainless coil or should I go with the Blichmann chiller? Does anyone have experience with the Chillzilla?
Click to expand...

The Therminator chills 10 gallons instantly depending on your groundwater temps. See my post above to BierHausPR. I highly recommend the Therminator, I've never chilled wort so quickly.:rockin:
 
Danam404 said:
Hey guys,

I filmed my BrewEasy process for Great Fermentations this week. I plan on splicing it all together tomorrow night and hopefully it'll be up monday. Stay tuned!

For those of you who just got the system it will hopefully prove helpful.
Click to expand...

Please let us know when and where we can find it.

My efficiency has been pretty poor my past two brews, under 70%. I missed my target OG (1.046) by .006 (1.040) this weekend and was bummed it was the second time in 4 brews that I've been below. Trying to figure this out before next brew day.
 
Does the therminator require another pump? Or two for that matter.

How do you integrate it into the brew easy ecosystem.

Thanks.


Is there a really simple clean way to do it.

I am tired of the jumbled mass of special equipment etc. I want to simplify my brew day.

Thanks.
 
Hi there. I've been researching brew rigs for months. I don't have big parties, and I drink 1-2 beers most nights of the week. I feel like brewing five gallon batches would be enough. I see me giving away a lot of my beer to friends. I want a relatively simple system. I've been debating between the blichman breweasy and a eBIAB w/ electric hoist. I think the breweasy is the better choice.

My question is this: what limiting factor will there be between buying a breweasy and a traditional three vessel system? I am not at all experienced but I just can't understand why a three vessel would be better - unless you're trying to do two brews at a time, which I wouldn't. Will I have the equipment (not necessarily the skill) to brew a perfect Zombie Dust clone?

Also, electric vs gas? :)
 
ElCid79 said:
Does the therminator require another pump? Or two for that matter.

How do you integrate it into the brew easy ecosystem.

Thanks.


Is there a really simple clean way to do it.

I am tired of the jumbled mass of special equipment etc. I want to simplify my brew day.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

My understanding is you would connect hose from the boil kettle to the pump and then pump through the therminator and into your fermenter.
 

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