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rollinred

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Set out to build a simple one element system that could be expanded to a two element system. I intend to use this kettle as both the HLT and boil kettle. Later moving to a 15-20 gallon Boil kettle for larger batches.

I still have a few things to figure out.

1. how to mount the element. I would like to do a tri-clover setup in the end but I broke myself doing this project already. I do not like the Kal method at all, and I am not even sure I could get a good seal with how much curvature the kettle has. I might have an idea that plays off of the Kal method though.
2. Getting the PID running right. I don't know what I don't have set right but the PID is constantly sending signal to the SSR. I have checked my wiring and don't think that is the issue. I have to believe it is something in the PID setting.
3. When I am going to finally have this thing done.

I have been doing this "behind the scene" because I didn't want to ask the simple questions until I was nearly done.

Last, I have no idea how to post pictures here so don't be surprised if it doesn't work right.

P.S., Thumbs up for the person who notices my :drunk: mistake!

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for mounting the element, most threaded elements are 1" NPS, so you can get a 1" half coupling and weld or solder it into the kettle. if you werent going tri-clover, that is the way i would prefer. other options would be to use washers and a locknut on the inside and just put the element thru a hole in the side. that has its obvious downfalls on a curved surface though.

for #2, it could be that the PID is set for cooling, where you want heating. or the setpoint is simply lower than the input temp. also check the polarity on the PID-to-SSR wires. its a DC signal (usually), so it matters.
 
It appears that everything is running right. The RTD was reading the same as a thermometer I placed in a glass of ice water. I will have to check on the setting for cooling or heating, but it wasn't switching on or off at all. it was sending power constantly no matter where the set point was. Could easily be user error though.
 
I found a MUCH improved way to mount a heating element vs. the Kal method. So everything is pretty much complete....

Except for the fact that I can not get this PID running right. I have no idea what I am doing wrong but my element is firing in a nearly continuous fashion. I have it set for the RTD (21), but when I press the A/M button nothing happens at any time. So I have no idea whether I am in Auto or manual.

More than likely I am just doing something wrong.
 
I would like to ask where you got your switches and what are the dimensions of your control panel?
 
This is the "improved Kal mount" as most of the idea was taken from Kal just improved on. I want to mention that I did mock up one of Kals method of mounting and installed it several times.

I had leaks and also used a meter to test the ground and in several instances the element was not grounding! This is NOT good. It does this because the O-ring doesn't "squish" enough to make contact with the kettle body, AND using the silicon that is required to prevent leakage in to the electrical box can cause a situation where no contact between the base of the element and the box. Keep in mind this is a rare condition but it can happen.

Not to mention, if you take the element out of the kettle there is a good chance you have to re-do the silicon inside the electrical box.

The design I came up with allows you to take the element out every time withing a few seconds BUT, it does require a couple of spot welds as seen on other builds because it is welded to the outside of the box. I am sure you have seen designs like this but I have yet to see one that is like this in the outdoor water resistant box, only in the cheaper galvanized boxes. You all should be able to come up with someone you know that has access to a MIG welder that can put a couple tacks on. If not, I am sure a weld shop only charges a small fee for a job this small.

Everything behind the stainless plate is siliconed and no water can get in the back side. You do not need to big washer that is used in the Kal method to stop the o-ring from squeezing out, it won't do that in this connection. Instead I used the washer inside the Kettle to stop the nut from scraping the kettle wall.

The pictures suck because I can't figure out how to use this fancy camera and my wife can't find the charger for her other camera.

If you need more details or pictures let me know. I will certainly get them.

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Looks good! I like how you improved on the method to mount the element.

I have been working with aluminum pots and have found that they flex enough to enable a good seal by just using washers and a bit of teflon tape when things are snugged tight enough. Does the SS pot flex any?
 
Also, I had a hell of a time with my PID at first. Eventually, I bought a Type J connector/receptacle set and used a bit of Type J thermocouple wire to run from the receptacle on my control box to the input of my PID. After that, it did what it was supposed to. I had good readings one moment and then after a power reset they went crazy until I used the Thermocouple wire. Looking forward to reading about your first brew with this rig!
 
Looks good! I like how you improved on the method to mount the element.

I have been working with aluminum pots and have found that they flex enough to enable a good seal by just using washers and a bit of teflon tape when things are snugged tight enough. Does the SS pot flex any?

The Blichmann does flex a little. This is one thing that is actually eliminated with the mounting method though. There is no need for some outside "factor" like flex in the kettle wall, silicon for a main part of the seal, JB weld for attaching the back plate, or any other piece of.... ah, what do we call it, "jury rigging".

There is silicone there to assure a good seal behind the back plate and around the element but it is not compromised when removed. I have simply mixed two methods of using an electrical box to house the element.
1. The Kal method which had the benefit of being water resistant with a poor seal that relies on some outside factor like kettle flex or silicone.
2. The galvanised electrical box with tack welds that allowed for a much better seal between the kettle but at the expense of the water resistant benefit




For the worst part of all this. I was again trying to figure out why my PID was not working right....
Turns out I have a bad SSR... Tried to save a buck and bought it off of ebay. Ends up costing me way more in the long run. For all those trying to get in to the electric game, just order your stuff from Auber and pay the extra. It will save you in the end.
 
...P.S., Thumbs up for the person who notices my :drunk: mistake!

Can I take the first guess? Was it not allowing clearance for the green push button when the door is closed and it hitting the SSR? Hence why it is turn slightly
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I think Kal's design was intended for 20 gal Blichmans, which would have less curve than your 10? gal kettle. This could be why it didn't work as well for you.

I used Kal's basic design on my 15 gal Bayou Classic kettle and keggle, but used a single gang box and used the o-ring and nut from Bargain Fittings to seal the kettle from the inside. I've brewed about 6 batches now and no leaks from the HLT or Kettle elements. Also, the gang box is pressed up against the kettle, so there is no trouble with the kettle staying grounded.

Looking forward to seeing your rig in action - nice work.
 
Can I take the first guess? Was it not allowing clearance for the green push button when the door is closed and it hitting the SSR? Hence why it is turn slightly

Actually, I knew someone would notice that but it was not the drunk mistake. I was planning on putting the SSR on one of the sides but then realized I wanted it on top. So I just turned the switch to make it fit.

Hint: I don't mess with electrical wiring while drunk, but I did pick out components while :mug: :drunk:
 
Few more pictures of the element in the kettle. One other nice thing about mounting the element this way is it could be used on multiple applications very easily. Almost as easy as tri-clamps.

Peeved about the burnt out SSR... I want to run this thing. :mad:

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rollinred said:
Few more pictures of the element in the kettle. One other nice thing about mounting the element this way is it could be used on multiple applications very easily. Almost as easy as tri-clamps.

Peeved about the burnt out SSR... I want to run this thing. :mad:

I like the way you connected your heating elements I might try this for my build, nor issues with leaking? Do you have o rings on both sides?
 
I like the way you connected your heating elements I might try this for my build, nor issues with leaking? Do you have o rings on both sides?

Just an o-ring on the outside. You don't need one inside because the o-ring mates against the kettle and the flat surface where the factory o-ring would have mated. This method of mounting uses the sealing surfaces as intended by the manufacturer of the element instead of relying on silicone or some other method that is "good enough". Also, unlike some other element mounting methods, this one has no possibility for wort or HLT water to get behind the element if it does leak. That is one of its best benefits.

I did weld this myself and didn't do any test welds on scrap pieces and that is why the welds don't look good. I have about 20 pieces of the stainless pre-cut so if I ever want to make it loo pretty I could but it works so well I don't think I will change it.

I do want to mention that whoever welds it must be cautious because over heating will melt in to the sealing surface for the o-ring which could make the element useless. Anyone with even backyard welding skills on a MIG or TIG could easily do this.

As I mentioned, the only reason I used silicone is to seal behind the back plate to protect against splashes. The washer that I used behind the nut on the inside is a little too big though and I am not getting the best bite on the threads. I did notice that this washer is critical for these small volume kettles because the nut will not spin due to the concave nature of the inside of the kettle. I am going to just cut a smaller square piece of stainless and drill it out to fit the element better and offer more bit on the threats. Sorry if that doesn't make sense, but it will if you tried to build it this way and have a smaller kettle.

Let me know if you need help building the element! I will surely do what I can to help.
 
I would like to see a picture of the inside of the kettle and outside with this installed.

When you have time, of course...
 
I would like to see a picture of the inside of the kettle and outside with this installed.

When you have time, of course...

The pictures I put up today don't show what you want?

I have plenty of time to get anyone the pictures they need. Just want to help out. Just need to know specifically what pictures are needed!
 
Nice looking build, I have just a couple of comments & questions about your element mounting.

I want to mention that I did mock up one of Kals method of mounting and installed it several times.

I had leaks and also used a meter to test the ground and in several instances the element was not grounding! This is NOT good. It does this because the O-ring doesn't "squish" enough to make contact with the kettle body, AND using the silicon that is required to prevent leakage in to the electrical box can cause a situation where no contact between the base of the element and the box. Keep in mind this is a rare condition but it can happen.

I am not sure how you could build a "mock up" of the Kal method and test it. So you followed the directions exactly, drilled the box, punched the cover, jb welded and screwed the cover to the box, then installed it? After this, it leaked and you were not detecting ground between the grounding lug in the box and the kettle? Did you then throw it away and start over?

As far as I can see, the silicone has no effect on the grounding of the Kal method. The silicone is also not required to prevent leakage, I don't even use it. No problems with grounding and no leaks after many batches. I am cautious though and test my GFCI and ground before each brew.

I think Kal's design was intended for 20 gal Blichmans, which would have less curve than your 10? gal kettle. This could be why it didn't work as well for you.

Kal's solution should work on any size blichmann kettle.


I noticed in another thread you said the Kal method sucks
and I just wonder if you have actually tried it?

With electric brewing I think it is a good idea to keep a back up element on hand. Since this method involves welding a plate to the element, do you keep a backup element on hand with the plate already welded?

I mean no offense here, I would just like a little clarification. I don't really see how this is an improvement since it involves the welding step.
 
Nice looking build, I have just a couple of comments & questions about your element mounting.



I am not sure how you could build a "mock up" of the Kal method and test it. So you followed the directions exactly, drilled the box, punched the cover, jb welded and screwed the cover to the box, then installed it? After this, it leaked and you were not detecting ground between the grounding lug in the box and the kettle? Did you then throw it away and start over?

As far as I can see, the silicone has no effect on the grounding of the Kal method. The silicone is also not required to prevent leakage, I don't even use it. No problems with grounding and no leaks after many batches. I am cautious though and test my GFCI and ground before each brew.



Kal's solution should work on any size blichmann kettle.


I noticed in another thread you said the Kal method sucks
and I just wonder if you have actually tried it?

With electric brewing I think it is a good idea to keep a back up element on hand. Since this method involves welding a plate to the element, do you keep a backup element on hand with the plate already welded?

I mean no offense here, I would just like a little clarification. I don't really see how this is an improvement since it involves the welding step.

Yes, I built a Kal style element and it leaked unless tightened way down. This would work MUCH better on bigger kettles because the o-ring does not need to compress as much. As mentioned I had two instances where the ground did not make. And no, I don't have to bolt the box to the Kal style back plate, that has nothing to do with the grounding.

I mocked this up and tested it because I was a little fearful of this method in the beginning. If too much silicone gets between the element and back plate then the element will not mate with it and the o-ring, if not squeezed tight enough, may not compress enough to make ground between the washer an Kettle.

Notice in my internal keg pictures that I have that washer between the nut and kettle? That is the exact washer that Kal uses, I had it because I intended to use his method. Sure, it is an extreme circumstance that the element doesn't ground, I am just informing people that it CAN happen if you don't tighten the nut enough.

Sure, this is a human error circumstance that is completely avoidable, but I prefer to build things in a manner which eliminate as much possible error as I can, especially when my life is involved.

There is very little cost difference between what I built and what Kal builds. Two tack welds are not complicated and will not be expensive even if you have to go to a weld shop. Find someone with a mig welder and a little experience I am sure they would do it for a six pack.

The ONLY part that might cause problem for people is finding a piece of stainless to fit the back like mine did. I wish I had an answer for people there

I found this method much improved versus the mock ups I did and the added safety plus the better seal sold me on taking the 5 minutes to tack it.
 
Ajgeo,

Check the one link that you posted... This one... and read the last post.

It proves exactly what I am talking about!

Voltin did get a failure to ground situation. I commend you guys for checking with a meter, and as I mentioned in that same thread, I feel the Kal method requires a meter check each time.

Both me and Voltin have seen failure to ground. There will never be a failure to ground the way I have mounted this element. Check it once and you are set.

Kal has done so much for this community and everything about his build is phenomenal except for the element mounting system. I am not trying to take away from him at all. Just trying to improve.

As I said before, and unorthodox use for a heating element requires and unorthodox mounting method. I will take the safety side plus better seal every time.
 
Rollinred,

I completely agree with you. Kal has done so much good for electric brewing, but the way he mounts his elements scares the **** out of me! I would never recommend that method.

I thought about doing exactly what you did, but I would have welded all the way around to make the connections completely water resistant. Obviously that would have create too much heat and probably would have messed up the element. Your design is good, though, just not as water proof as I would like. Certainly much more water proof and much safer than Kal's design.

Nice work.

ps- check out my system build thread for the most anal safety effort concerning element mounting.
 
rollinred said:
Just an o-ring on the outside. You don't need one inside because the o-ring mates against the kettle and the flat surface where the factory o-ring would have mated. This method of mounting uses the sealing surfaces as intended by the manufacturer of the element instead of relying on silicone or some other method that is "good enough". Also, unlike some other element mounting methods, this one has no possibility for wort or HLT water to get behind the element if it does leak. That is one of its best benefits.

I did weld this myself and didn't do any test welds on scrap pieces and that is why the welds don't look good. I have about 20 pieces of the stainless pre-cut so if I ever want to make it loo pretty I could but it works so well I don't think I will change it.

I do want to mention that whoever welds it must be cautious because over heating will melt in to the sealing surface for the o-ring which could make the element useless. Anyone with even backyard welding skills on a MIG or TIG could easily do this.

As I mentioned, the only reason I used silicone is to seal behind the back plate to protect against splashes. The washer that I used behind the nut on the inside is a little too big though and I am not getting the best bite on the threads. I did notice that this washer is critical for these small volume kettles because the nut will not spin due to the concave nature of the inside of the kettle. I am going to just cut a smaller square piece of stainless and drill it out to fit the element better and offer more bit on the threats. Sorry if that doesn't make sense, but it will if you tried to build it this way and have a smaller kettle.

Let me know if you need help building the element! I will surely do what I can to help.

Thanks, rollinred, I am not a welder but I have a friend who is and can help me get these welded up np, he is a car guy and has been doing lost of welding redoing the floors sheet metal in his old Pontiac. If I run into any issues or have any questions I will let you know. Thanks in advance. I am using ss kegs for my HLT and BK.
 
Rollinred,

I completely agree with you. Kal has done so much good for electric brewing, but the way he mounts his elements scares the **** out of me! I would never recommend that method.

I thought about doing exactly what you did, but I would have welded all the way around to make the connections completely water resistant. Obviously that would have create too much heat and probably would have messed up the element. Your design is good, though, just not as water proof as I would like. Certainly much more water proof and much safer than Kal's design.

Nice work.

ps- check out my system build thread for the most anal safety effort concerning element mounting.

You certainly could weld all the way around but there is absolutely no need to do so. Even if water/wort leaks, it can not get behind the element simply because of gravity. I also did seal the the back plate and and inside the box around the element. I can assure you that the element side of the box is far more water resistant than the flimsy front cover!

I may do a submersion test to see if any weaknesses exist. I am positive that it would be the cover and its foam gasket if there is any leaks.

Thanks for the compliments.

Anyone have suggestions for the rust on the element issue? I know I have seen a threat about that somewhere.
 
Good point about the front cover! You could always make one out of thicker material, use a good gasket, and be able to hose that thing down without anything getting in. That's kind of what I was going for when I designed mine. I wanted no chance of wort getting in from the kettle and no chance of water getting in from outside while cleaning (or god forbid a boil over).

I think you can install a sacrificial anode in the kettle to take care of the rust. I have read some positive things about them.

Funny, though. After I brewed with my setup, a smooth, black coating formed on the element base that is definitely not nasty, brown rust. I have no idea what it is, but it doesn't appear to be getting worse or staining the inside of the keg directly beneath it like it did when I did a leak test with water. Brew with it and see if you're still worried about the rust.
 
I mocked this up and tested it because I was a little fearful of this method in the beginning. If too much silicone gets between the element and back plate then the element will not mate with it and the o-ring, if not squeezed tight enough, may not compress enough to make ground between the washer an Kettle.

I don't really think you understand the Kal method or assembled it correctly. How would you get silicone between the element and back plate? He applies it after everything is together.


Yes, I built a Kal style element and it leaked unless tightened way down. This would work MUCH better on bigger kettles because the o-ring does not need to compress as much. As mentioned I had two instances where the ground did not make.

So you did get it to seal? It works, the same way all of the Blichmann weldless fittings work.

And no, I don't have to bolt the box to the Kal style back plate, that has nothing to do with the grounding.

In Kal's method, the plate that is bolted & jb welded is part of the ground path, since the element base is in direct contact with it.

Ajgeo,

Check the one link that you posted... This one... and read the last post.

It proves exactly what I am talking about!

Voltin did get a failure to ground situation. I commend you guys for checking with a meter, and as I mentioned in that same thread, I feel the Kal method requires a meter check each time.

Both me and Voltin have seen failure to ground. There will never be a failure to ground the way I have mounted this element. Check it once and you are set.

I did see that post, and that's what grabbed my attention about this post. It is the second reference I have seen to grounding problems with Kal's method. These are the only two posts I have seen this problem mentioned, it proves nothing.

There is very little cost difference between what I built and what Kal builds. Two tack welds are not complicated and will not be expensive even if you have to go to a weld shop. Find someone with a mig welder and a little experience I am sure they would do it for a six pack.

In my area, most welding shops will have a 1/2 hour labor minimum charge, even to do a few tack welds.

This is just yet another way to mount an element, I do not see it as an improvement on Kal's method. If it works for you, that's great.

Some seem to have preconceived notions or safety fears about the Kal method. For me, Kal's method is safe, relatively inexpensive, and works great.

To each his own. Congratulations on your new system!
 
Use what works for you.

I was simply trying to find something that satisfied my criteria more and this was improvement enough that I implemented it. I also believe there will be people who will be happy that one of the biggest fear about the electric system can be put to bed with a mounting system similar to this. It doesn't require welding anything to their kettle, it is more versatile than the Kal design (element stays rigid when removed), and leakages can not get behind the element and in to the wiring. It might not seem like it to you, but it is a vast improvement for us that are very particular about this aspect of the system.

Not trying to start a fight, just informing people willing to take a small extra step that they can improve the design by quite a bit. I am glad that your mount system has been safe and effective for you.

I do appreciate the input!
 
I like your element mounting upgrades. I have put together a few for myself and a few friends using a similar method.

I never went the extra step of a mounting plate and weather proof box though (just a galvanized handy box). Although, one box I did spray with rubberized coating to seal the knockouts with decent results.

WRT, the grounding issue, I ground the box/element to a lug inside the box and also run an external ground wire from the box to another lug on the kettle. Redundant and even safer.

No disrespect, but I have not been very impressed with many element mounting techniques I have seen here. JB weld and silicone are not substitutes for good design and I may be wrong but I doubt either is listed for electrical use.

Thumbs up for the ingenuity. And for those defending less than perfect methods, keep an open mind. There is ALWAYS a better way.

Edit** The pic was supposed to be at the top. Looks like I'm implying mine is a better way. Well, I guess I think it is;)

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JB weld and silicone are not substitutes for good design
:mug:

JB Weld is a band aid, only to be used until you can buy the correct part. Not here.
 
I like your element mounting upgrades. I have put together a few for myself and a few friends using a similar method.

I never went the extra step of a mounting plate and weather proof box though (just a galvanized handy box). Although, one box I did spray with rubberized coating to seal the knockouts with decent results.

WRT, the grounding issue, I ground the box/element to a lug inside the box and also run an external ground wire from the box to another lug on the kettle. Redundant and even safer.

No disrespect, but I have not been very impressed with many element mounting techniques I have seen here. JB weld and silicone are not substitutes for good design and I may be wrong but I doubt either is listed for electrical use.

Thumbs up for the ingenuity. And for those defending less than perfect methods, keep an open mind. There is ALWAYS a better way.

Edit** The pic was supposed to be at the top. Looks like I'm implying mine is a better way. Well, I guess I think it is;)

Your element design may have been one that influenced my idea, at least that picture looks familiar. Silicone is a terrible way to seal large voids, but keep in mind that silicone is a rubber like compound that is used for gasket making in MANY different industries as standard practice. But the key is that it should be sandwiched between two surfaces. In that case it is a very effective method. It is when applying it like bath and tile caulk around heating elements to make a seal where there is a good chance of leakage that a problem occurs. I would advocate for using silicone in small voids but never in a situation where large voids or shifts could occur and break the seal unintentionally.

My mind is still open to finding the right way to complete this style of mount. I know how to do it but lack the resources. Not to mention I would prefer to find something off the shelf that everyone could use.

JB weld... that stuff doesn't come close to anything I actually intend to use. Have you guys seen how well JB weld holds when there is heat in the proximity? Different expansion rates really show up with this stuff. Just FYI, I work in the commercial food equipment industry... which means electric dishwashers, steamers, fryers... you name it. I have vast experience with electricity in these environments. Silicone is used all the time in surface to surface mating, never once have I seen JB weld or beads of silicone.
 
rollinred said:
Your element design may have been one that influenced my idea, at least that picture looks familiar. Silicone is a terrible way to seal large voids, but keep in mind that silicone is a rubber like compound that is used for gasket making in MANY different industries as standard practice. But the key is that it should be sandwiched between two surfaces. In that case it is a very effective method. It is when applying it like bath and tile caulk around heating elements to make a seal where there is a good chance of leakage that a problem occurs. I would advocate for using silicone in small voids but never in a situation where large voids or shifts could occur and break the seal unintentionally.

My mind is still open to finding the right way to complete this style of mount. I know how to do it but lack the resources. Not to mention I would prefer to find something off the shelf that everyone could use.

I never am without a tube of silicone (usually several colors). I did not mean to imply that I disagreed with your use of it. You did a good job of describing proper usage above.

The problem I had was finding a reasonably priced and sized steel weather proof box. I cannot weld aluminum to steel or brass. It looks like you had the same issue. I also think off the shelf parts are key for this.

Ultimately, I built mine and abandoned the idea of making the box water tight. It was a simpler build and I felt the safeguards built into the system (proper grounding and GFCI protection) were sufficient.

After running some scenarios, I wonder if a completely water tight enclosure is necessary or even desirable . Although, not likely, I think it is possible that the element itself could leak and possibly fill the box. Maybe the best solution is splash-proof but able to drain?
 
After running some scenarios, I wonder if a completely water tight enclosure is necessary or even desirable . Although, not likely, I think it is possible that the element itself could leak and possibly fill the box. Maybe the best solution is splash-proof but able to drain?

Water tight is not necessary in my opinion. I simply have a dream of creating the perfect element system that includes water tight for those who might want to hose stuff down.

In fact, being in the food equipment service industry I have already contacted one of the leading element suppliers about building a custom heating element for the home brew industry. It would be easily possible if only the fitting end of the deal were standard in stainless steel, 1" of thread, going both in to the Kettle and rearward toward the terminals with a sealing surface on half way in between. I have no doubt if I could get one of them to build it that I could stand to make enough to brew a few batches.

You mentioned one thing in there that MAY still get incorporated in my design "splash proof but able to drain". We don't submerge our kettles... We don't hose them off. But we want to be able to clean them without treating them like a piece of glass. Splash proof with a drain hole or two is perfect for this.

Once I find my missing plug I am going to do a submersion test. It won't tell me much other than my lid is leaking but I want to try anyway.
 
Water tight is not necessary in my opinion. I simply have a dream of creating the perfect element system that includes water tight for those who might want to hose stuff down.

In fact, being in the food equipment service industry I have already contacted one of the leading element suppliers about building a custom heating element for the home brew industry. It would be easily possible if only the fitting end of the deal were standard in stainless steel, 1" of thread, going both in to the Kettle and rearward toward the terminals with a sealing surface on half way in between. I have no doubt if I could get one of them to build it that I could stand to make enough to brew a few batches.

You mentioned one thing in there that MAY still get incorporated in my design "splash proof but able to drain". We don't submerge our kettles... We don't hose them off. But we want to be able to clean them without treating them like a piece of glass. Splash proof with a drain hole or two is perfect for this.

Once I find my missing plug I am going to do a submersion test. It won't tell me much other than my lid is leaking but I want to try anyway.

I think you're on the right track. That would be great if you could convince an element manufacturer to take this on.

I just got on a real computer and noticed you are from Traverse City. I have a good buddy living there now. There is a beerfest sometime next month that we may take a ride down for. Maybe we'll see you there:mug:
 
I think you're on the right track. That would be great if you could convince an element manufacturer to take this on.

I just got on a real computer and noticed you are from Traverse City. I have a good buddy living there now. There is a beerfest sometime next month that we may take a ride down for. Maybe we'll see you there:mug:

Maybe. I don't do a whole lot right now since with job, college, kids, and angry wife. But I have been meaning to get to some of these things.
 
if no one else found it, i think you mismatched the element plug to the socket on the control box. i see an L14 receptacle (4 contacts) and i believe thats an L6 plug (3 contacts), though its hard to see for sure in the element picture if im right.

winner?

Winner winner chicken dinner!

For some reason I grabbed the wrong receptacle, that reason being a night out with 3 or 4 beers in me. Oh well, I just have the element on the 4 contact plug, with nothing on the neutral. Might get around to fixing it... but not likely. Works just as well this way.
 
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