My first attempt at brewing an IPA

Hey guys,

Very new to brewing, just moved to a larger apartment in Manhattan where I can finally do some brewing!

First attempt doing a 1 gallon all grain American IPA (on 7/4)

-1.20 kg of American 2 row
-150 g of Crystal caramel 40
-60 minutes .3oz Centennial
-20 minutes .3oz Cascade
-0 minutes .3oz Cascade
-1/2 vial of White Labs california ale yeast without a starter

I think it went well, it ended up having a 1.060 OG, tasted the wort seemed good. I put it in a plastic bucket fermenter. Was bubbling like crazy for 3 days then settled down yesterday.

My main concern are the temperature near the upper 80s right now which is not good for fermentation.

I think i'll take a sample this weekend. Is it possible to use the bucket spigot to take a sample during fermentation or is that only for bottling?

Here's a few pics... let me know what you think please









I'll probably have more questions along the way!

Thanks for reading

I wouldnt use the spigot because residual sugary wort will be left in the spigot. Those things are notorious for harboring infections. Then, when you bottle, all your beer will pass through and get infected

btw, have you heard of hopstands? I'd recommend you check it out for your next IPA if you want some awesome potent hop character

with that (and most) yeasts, temperatures even above 70 arent recommended. Im not sure how much hot fusel alcohol flavors youre going to get all the way up the 80. In ther future you need to find some method of temperature control. Whether its a fan and some wet t-shirts or just cranking the a/c youll be glad you did. Fermentation temps make or break a beer, which msot dont realize at first before its too late

Thanks m00ps that really helps as I actually was going to use the spigot!

I have the AC on when I get home, I don't feel good leaving it on during the day went i'm out. The apartment is pretty well insulated and stays cool long after the AC is off. Hopefully it hasn't been over 80 in the apartment too much. If it fails I think i'll have to start brewing again in september

Never heard of a hop stand...Do you have a good link?

Temperature control is a game changer for your beer. Do you have space for a fermentation chamber? I have one in my apartment (but no SO to tell me it doesn't "match" with the rest of the furniture, your situation may vary)

80 ambient is pretty high, what temperature did you pitch at and what did things start at? Usually the beginning is the most critical.

I live in a small 1 bedroom apartment and do 5 gallon all grain batches on my electric stove (built an electric kettle to use on it), so anything is possible! Your apartment won't limit your brewing career, I promise


Edit: In regards to the other question, a hop stand is just letting the hops sit at flameout. Kill the heat, throw in a bunch of hops and let them sit for 30-40 minutes. Doesn't impart as much bitterness, but adds more flavor. Do you use Beersmith? There is an option in there for that, i believe it is "steep/whirlpool".

lolcats said:

Thanks m00ps that really helps as I actually was going to use the spigot!

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Defo agree with mOOps, the spigot is not the route for taking samples. Turkey baster is your friend here!

@Jwood:

no don't use beersmith.

I do have space for a fermentation chamber, i will look into this! but seems like a hassle for just 2 months of hot weather here in NY.

I brewed the batch on a Saturday and had the AC on until Monday morning so for the 48 first hours the fermenter was about at 70F. It probably went up to 80F on monday during the day then back down to 70F on monday evening.

lolcats said:

@Jwood:

no don't use beersmith.

I do have space for a fermentation chamber, i will look into this! but seems like a hassle for just 2 months of hot weather here in NY.

I brewed the batch on a Saturday and had the AC on until Monday morning so for the 48 first hours the fermenter was about at 70F. It probably went up to 80F on monday during the day then back down to 70F on monday evening.

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I live in Rhode Island. I do my fermentations in my basement which is partially finished. It gets warm during the summer and is heated in the winter so I cool the fermentation all year round for most styles.

Even 70 degrees is on the warm side. Remember that fermentation creates heat. It is important to control this heat. Look into a swamp cooler for a lower cost way to control fermentation temperatures. It is essentially a vessel of water that the fermenter sits in, you then use ice bottles to control the temperature. Switch melted ones for new ones when needed to keep the temperature controlled.

I have always taken FG samples from the spigot and haven't ever had an infected batch. After I take my samples all I do is spray the inside of the spigot with StarSan...easy/peasy. Although those high fermentation temperatures will cause the yeast to produce esters that won't be appreciated in an IPA.

Thanks guys for your advice, really appreciate it

Would this work?
https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/fuo/5110239339.html

Thanks guys for your advice, really appreciate it!

Would this type of wine fridge work?

It would work. If it will go up to the mid 60's you are golden. If not you'll need an STC-1000 temp controller.

Even if you set your thermostat to 65* the fermentation temp will likely get to 75* which is bit too high for almost every yeast.

For an IPA you'll also want to do a dry hop after fermentation is done (around 2 weeks).

OK well in that case, this batch will most likely taste awfull.

Took a sample of the beer on Saturday, gravity is 1.016. So it seems that the fermentation has been going well (attached picture of the sample). The color has become much lighter. It smells and tastes like a flat beer that's been sitting out for a week. Pretty bland, was expecting something much hoppier. But I read that it's normal after just one week.

Another noob question: I'm planning to mix in corn sugar to the fermenting beer next weekend for bottling. But there seems to be a lot of residue of the beer and yeast at the bottom of the bucket that I won't be putting into the bottle. If I put the sugar into the fermentation bucket before bottling, will that sugar dissolve over the entire bucket or will it just stay at the top? I'm concerned about having the right amount of sugar in every bottle. Also, will there be enough yeast to carbonate the beer in the bottle if most of the residue is at the bottom of the bucket and I don't include it in?

Thanks a ton for your advice!

Youll want to rack the beer into a bottling bucket to bottle from. Or else, youll get a ton of yeast and trub sediment in your bottles. The best practice is to boil your carbing sugar in some water, pout that into the bottling bucket first, then rack on top to ensure even mixing. This is key if you want uniform carbonation and dont want to risk overprimed bottle bombs

Also, a muddled hop character is expected with beginner homebrewed IPAs. It takes a good deal fo skill and knowledge to minimize oxidation when taking samples and transferring the beer. Oxygen will quickly strip the beer of its hop character and turn a bright hoppy IPA into a dull stronger version of a pale ale

Every time you rack it from a container to another doesn't that bring in more oxygen that ruins flavors?

lolcats said:

Every time you rack it from a container to another doesn't that bring in more oxygen that ruins flavors?

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Sure. But you're only doing it once. Just go slow, try not to splash, and keep the hose under the waterline of the bottling bucket. You'll be golden.

EDIT: Better that than trying to bottle with a siphon straight from the primary. God, what a nightmare.

Got it guys, but how do you predetermine how much beer you'll get out of the primary to calculate how much sugar is needed?

I'm currently using my bottling bucket as a fermenter, so i would have to rack it to another container, then rack it back to the bottling bucket.

How long can a beer sit in the open air before bottling?

ScrewyBrewer said:

I have always taken FG samples from the spigot and haven't ever had an infected batch. After I take my samples all I do is spray the inside of the spigot with StarSan...easy/peasy. Although those high fermentation temperatures will cause the yeast to produce esters that won't be appreciated in an IPA.

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I too have used the spigot in the past for samples and just sprayed it out. As long as you get it before the sugar dries, it is easy to flush out.

check these fermenters out:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/sp...159-gal.html?gclid=CKf5--rB2MYCFdUXHwodKcoARA


It doesn't specify sampling but I have buddies that do, so...

lolcats said:

Got it guys, but how do you predetermine how much beer you'll get out of the primary to calculate how much sugar is needed?

I'm currently using my bottling bucket as a fermenter, so i would have to rack it to another container, then rack it back to the bottling bucket.

How long can a beer sit in the open air before bottling?

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I look at the level of the beer in the volume estimates on the bucket/carboy. I figure I generally lose 1/2 gal to trub so I put my measurement minus 1/2gal into an online carbing calculator set to my target volCO2

I'd just buy another bottling bucket honestly. Its cheap and not worth risking your beer to doing a rushed double transfer on bottling day. If not, just secure a lid on the beer once you rack it to prevent too much exposure to air

Or racking directly to the bottles? or is that not recommended

I have only ever bottled from the primary.. I don't use a bottling bucket, never is there a problem with sediment.

Moops loses 1/2 gallon because he is talking about a 5-6 gallon batch. Since you are using a 1-gallon container, you can probably just estimate it will be about 10 %. This is one of those situations where doing a smaller batch instead of "the hassle of a bigger 5 gallon batch" is actually more difficult with the smaller batch. I have done both. With the 1 gallon, measuring out your ingredients and your priming sugar, if you are off by a cup, or an ounce or two, can be a 20% issue. Whereas in a 5-gallon batch, it is a 4% issue.
If you can get yourself another 1-gallon bucket, you can rack it over and have your boiled water with priming sugar ready to go at the same time. mix them together and bottle.
If you go to a local bakery, you will probably be able to get a bucket and lid for free. They use 1-5 gallon buckets for their ingredients all the time, syrups, corn sugar, molasses, icings and frostings, etc. My local bakery gives them to me, or charges a $1 for a bucket and lid. You should use the bucket with the spigot for your bottling bucket, then you simple attach the hose to the spigot. Use the bucket and lid without the spigot for your primary fermenter. That way, you can take apart the bucket and spigot and clean it and sanitize it right before you do your bottling.

lolcats said:

Or racking directly to the bottles? or is that not recommended

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When I first started to brew, all I had was a bottle bucket, I fermented and then straight to the bottle. I may of had a bit more sediment at the bottom of my bottles but the beer was still drinkable. Of course proper equipment will always improve the beer. FWIW

lolcats said:

@Jwood:
I do have space for a fermentation chamber, i will look into this! but seems like a hassle for just 2 months of hot weather here in NY.

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No, no no no... You are shooting yourself in the foot if you use a clean fermenting yeast but have an ambient temperature higher than 60, and it should be even lower. Do you want to keep your apartment at 50-55 all winter!?

You will use the fermentation chamber year-round.

Guys thanks for your advice!

I got a cooler and can easily fit four 1 gallon carboys. I can maintain around 65F with 2 iced bottles of water changed daily if i close the lid.



My noob question is: is keeping the lid of the cooler shut bad for the fermentation? does the air need to escape out the of the cooler or is the one time a day while i change the bottles of water enough?

Nope. If you think about it, the goal of your airlock is to keep outside oxygen OUT of the fermenter. So closing the lid will hold no bearing on that, and it will keep your temps more stable and require less ice. Your solution of the cooler is what I've used successfully for quite a few tasty batches.

Hi guys,

Thanks for your help and comments, really helped me through the process.

Brewed a 1 gallon batch of IIPA this weekend with 3 lbs of grains and 1.6 oz of hops (very very hoppy). Planning to leave it 2 weeks in fermenter (with 0.5oz of cascade dry hop for the last 5 days) before cold crashing/ bottling. Keeping my temps very steady at 68F thanks to the cooler!

OG 1.081

What was your final hop schedule? 1.6 oz for 1 gal (8 oz per 5 gallon) isnt necessarily very hoppy. It can be very bitter if you used most of it at the start of the boil. I personally find a large emphasis on flameout hopping produces the best results for my tastes. I just tapped my latest IPA with 18oz per 5gal (3.6 oz in your case) and its extremely hoppy but not bitter

I did mostly late hops additions

0.3 oz centennial @ 60
0.4 oz (half centennial / half cascade) @ 15
0.5 oz amarillo @ 5
0.4 oz cascade @ 0 + hopstand to 170F

The wort didn't taste too bitter but had a lot of aromas


Wow 3.6 oz per gallon, thats huge! how much in late addition?

That looks like a good hop schedule to me for a nice amount of flavor. My usual MO for IPAs is: (5gal)
60min addition of 1oz of a typical bittering hop
10min or 15min addition of 2oz of whatever hops I want the most flavor of
flameout addition of 4-6oz with a hopstand
another 4-6oz hopstand addition after 30min or so of what I want to smell more than taste
2-3oz dry hops
2oz whole leaf hops in the keg

the result is like hop juice gatorade. so much hop character but so drinkable. like my mom can drink the stuff and she normally drinks kahlua and smirnoff ice. I almost want to drink it in the morning instead of OJ

that's a 12 oz hopstand love it

gotta try that on my next batch, but i can't keep my wort warm enough for a 30 min hopstand, do you keep the lid on?

that's a 12 oz hopstand love it

gotta try that on my next batch, but i can't keep my wort warm enough for a 30 min hopstand, do you keep the lid on?

yeah I put the lid on about 3 min before flameout so the steam sanitizes the lid. The wort cools to about 170-190 in 30min and then I add the next hop addition. For a smaller batch maybe you could turn the flame on the lowest possible setting or swtich it on/off every so often to keep it hot but not boiling.