The Cold Bottom Brewery

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Will319

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
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Location
Baltimore, MD
Lets see if the pictures work here:

I wanted to do a write up of a brewery I just finished. First of all I want to thank everyone on the forum for all of the help, either directly, or for me stealing your ideas. I also want to give a big thank you to Boerderij Kabouter for building the control panel, for their 2P-Twent-E design that my build was based off of, and fielding all of my rookie questions.

A link to that the original design is found here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/2p-twent-e-new-brouwerij-boerderij-kabouter-160970/.

So before moving further my goals: were to have a countertop 5 gallon system based off of the Brutus 20 design. I wanted it to be electric and run off of 110v 15A service. I wanted some sort of temperature control that would be easy to clean, so I settled on a RIMS System. I tried to go with the better parts when possible.

Here is a shot of the brewery packed up

photostream


Here is a shot of inside the pots packed up

photostream


Here is a shot unpacked of the brewpot

photostream


I decided to go with 2 electric elements installed via the Kal method, the only thing that I changed was that I plasma cut out one end of the box and mounted the element at one end and a recessed male plug in the lower half. This allowed me to have the depth to use the recessed male in order to be cordless, and pack up tidily.

photostream


photostream


I used the heavy duty Bulkheads from Brewers Hardware because I am mounting pumps directly to the outlets. I chose to use a Hopstopper screen in the kettle because I am using a plate chiller. There is a compression elbow in the inlet with a diptube attached in order to whirlpool the kettle. I also have a Bobby M sightglass and a Auber RTD installed in the sightglass. A Blichmann Brewmometer is also installed.

Here are 2 images of the Mash tun

photostream


With False Bottom removed

photostream


The Mash Tun is made with a Jaybird false bottom. I cannot recommend the material this is made of enough, however it arrived a bit larger and with a bent handle and no response from Nor Cal. The handle is cosmetic and I quickly grinded the false bottom down to a perfect snug fit. The false bottom is supported by a 2" stand from Nor Cal. I had to use a 2" stand to get above the Brewers Hardware bulkhead. The Mash Tun also uses a Blichmann Brewmometer and Bobby M Sightglass. I use a Loc Line for a return.

I use Camlocks and street elbows for hose fittings

photostream


I stole this concept from Bobby M and added a Stainless Oetiker clamp to it. This takes the strain off of the hose, helps to prevent kinking and has a better rate of flow over a hose barb connection.

Next is the control panel

photostream


photostream


The control panel was made by Justin AKA Boerderij Kabouter and is a excellent panel. It uses 2 circuits, however can run on one and produce a 4 gallon batch if only one circuit is available. If 2 are available it can boil 5+ gallons by the second circuit directly going to a SSR and out to the secondary element. The panel uses a 3 way switch to run the RIMS system while mashing. We went with the recessed male plugs to avoid cords. The RIMS system is a Tri Clamp from Brewers Hardware running a 5500W ULD element at 110V putting out 1375w.

Here is a picture of the Accessory Box

photostream


The box contains all of the Tri Clamp hardware, the RIMS tube, and both pumps. It also holds some of the power cords.

I use a plate chiller to chill

photostream


I have a Brewmometer off of a tee to dial in the pitching temperature.

Here are some shots of the brewery in action:

Heating Strike Water

photostream


Mashing

photostream


RIMS Recirculating

photostream


Wort Chilling

photostream
 
I've never seen anyone do pumps like that... simple enough. looks good to me.
 
Lets see if the pictures work here:

I wanted to do a write up of a brewery I just finished. First of all I want to thank everyone on the forum for all of the help, either directly, or for me stealing your ideas. I also want to give a big thank you to Boerderij Kabouter for building the control panel, for their 2P-Twent-E design that my build was based off of, and fielding all of my rookie questions.

A link to that the original design is found here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/2p-twent-e-new-brouwerij-boerderij-kabouter-160970/.

So before moving further my goals: were to have a countertop 5 gallon system based off of the Brutus 20 design. I wanted it to be electric and run off of 110v 15A service. I wanted some sort of temperature control that would be easy to clean, so I settled on a RIMS System. I tried to go with the better parts when possible.

Here is a shot of the brewery packed up

8488112220_be4b412d16_c.jpg


Here is a shot of inside the pots packed up

8487019409_9c2af5f2ce_c.jpg


Here is a shot unpacked of the brewpot

8488110192_d373669255_c.jpg


I decided to go with 2 electric elements installed via the Kal method, the only thing that I changed was that I plasma cut out one end of the box and mounted the element at one end and a recessed male plug in the lower half. This allowed me to have the depth to use the recessed male in order to be cordless, and pack up tidily.

8488114624_771127b963_c.jpg


8488143404_5ecb0e2324_c.jpg


I used the heavy duty Bulkheads from Brewers Hardware because I am mounting pumps directly to the outlets. I chose to use a Hopstopper screen in the kettle because I am using a plate chiller. There is a compression elbow in the inlet with a diptube attached in order to whirlpool the kettle. I also have a Bobby M sightglass and a Auber RTD installed in the sightglass. A Blichmann Brewmometer is also installed.

Here are 2 images of the Mash tun

8488144734_b9492c7558_c.jpg


With False Bottom removed

8487052163_d58c473901_c.jpg


The Mash Tun is made with a Jaybird false bottom. I cannot recommend the material this is made of enough, however it arrived a bit larger and with a bent handle and no response from Nor Cal. The handle is cosmetic and I quickly grinded the false bottom down to a perfect snug fit. The false bottom is supported by a 2" stand from Nor Cal. I had to use a 2" stand to get above the Brewers Hardware bulkhead. The Mash Tun also uses a Blichmann Brewmometer and Bobby M Sightglass. I use a Loc Line for a return.

I use Camlocks and street elbows for hose fittings

8488141852_b8baeafcd7_c.jpg


I stole this concept from Bobby M and added a Stainless Oetiker clamp to it. This takes the strain off of the hose, helps to prevent kinking and has a better rate of flow over a hose barb connection.

Next is the control panel

8487019961_eb8a828676_c.jpg


8488141302_9333f45899_c.jpg


The control panel was made by Justin AKA Boerderij Kabouter and is a excellent panel. It uses 2 circuits, however can run on one and produce a 4 gallon batch if only one circuit is available. If 2 are available it can boil 5+ gallons by the second circuit directly going to a SSR and out to the secondary element. The panel uses a 3 way switch to run the RIMS system while mashing. We went with the recessed male plugs to avoid cords. The RIMS system is a Tri Clamp from Brewers Hardware running a 5500W ULD element at 110V putting out 1375w.

Here is a picture of the Accessory Box

8487019695_76e3ae2b5d_c.jpg


The box contains all of the Tri Clamp hardware, the RIMS tube, and both pumps. It also holds some of the power cords.

I use a plate chiller to chill

8488142768_f53c1428b6_c.jpg


I have a Brewmometer off of a tee to dial in the pitching temperature.

Here are some shots of the brewery in action:

Heating Strike Water

8488113774_c6140ea20b_c.jpg


Mashing

8487021221_718cbcf450_c.jpg


RIMS Recirculating

8487021509_4d379972c4_c.jpg


Wort Chilling

8488112848_7ebee41b03_c.jpg



I fixed that for you. Hope you don't mind.

P-J
 
Will - this is very cool. Can you provide a little more input on the kal method for the elements? I'm starting to acquire parts for my own brewery, and I'm having a little trouble figuring out the through-wall bulkhead for the heating elements.

Along the same lines, how did you connect the junction box to the kettle?

Thanks!
 
The Kal method comes form www.theelectricbrewery.com

The method is weldless. There is a full write up on his site. The element is enclosed in a watertight junction box and uses a shim washer and a O-ring between the box and the pot you're using to seal. The method uses a locknut on the inside of the pot to tighten and make the seal by pulling the element to the pot. By being weldless you dont have to worry about stripped threads on your vessel, or a area that is harder to clean.

I decided to not use a knockout punch to drill the holes. I used a large step it and went slow and lubricated constantly. I every few seconds stopped and tried to fit the element and made sure that I would get a snug fit. I decided to go with the recessed male plug to avoid a cord because I wanted a portable system and didnt want to be dragging around 2 cords. Due to the depth of the recessed male recepticle, the element had to be on one end of the box and the recepticle at the lower end. So rather than to use the hole saw in Kals Instructions and cut out the middle, I plasma cut the one half of the box for the element and fit the recepticle on the lower end through the cover.
 
Awesome - thank you. I keep getting the Kal site and e brewing supply mixed up, and then not being able to find anything.

I have a few class coupons for Techshop when they open up in Pittsburgh - I'll see if I can get the parts done in one of the machining or torch classes.
 
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