Electric Noob starting E-brewery. Help pls!

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I've been on a small hiatus now back on track. Here is the enclosure painted with switches



image-3909328137.jpg
 
Ok, now this is going to sound dumb, but Kal's relay has 6 "attachment points" whereas the one i linked appears to only have 4. Here is a picture to better explain what i mean:

Am I missing something? (besides brains :cross: )

contactor.jpg
 
Ok, now this is going to sound dumb, but Kal's relay has 6 "attachment points" whereas the one i linked appears to only have 4. Here is a picture to better explain what i mean:

Am I missing something? (besides brains :cross: )

Kal's is a double pole double throw contactor, though he is only using one throw. It likely has 8 attachment points.

The one you linked to is a double pole single throw contactor (perfectly suitable). It will have 6 attachment points, whether or not you can see them in the picture:
1) Line for H1
2) Line for H2
3) Load for H1
4) Load for H2
5) Coil for H1
6) Coil for N
 
The relay pictured on the right, the one from Auber, has coil connections on either side. You don't have arrows going to them, but put hot on one side and neutral on the other.
 
Hmmmm cank, that doesn't seem right. There's no place for the terminal to go



image-252638906.jpg



image-3323030582.jpg


On the bottom though, there's a screw that opens a spot for a terminal maybe



image-1848785809.jpg

If this is the case, now to figure out which is
1) Line for H1
2) Line for H2
3) Load for H1
4) Load for H2
5) Coil for H1 (may be interchangeable as per stlbeer)
6) Coil for N (may be interchangeable as per stlbeer)
 
Hmmmm cank, that doesn't seem right. There's no place for the terminal to go



View attachment 132626

You are looking at the coil in this picture. The shiny orange part is the coil for pulling the relay closed. There are 2 spade terminal connections there so they can be easily daisy chained together (you probably don't need that though).


If this is the case, now to figure out which is
1) Line for H1
2) Line for H2
3) Load for H1
4) Load for H2
5) Coil for H1 (may be interchangeable as per stlbeer)
6) Coil for N (may be interchangeable as per stlbeer)

On each side, where there are multiple YELLOW spade and screw connections, these are your Line and Load. Pick one side to be Line and one side to be load. Test these with your multi-meter after you have hooked up the coil connections and are able to test the relay BEFORE hooking up other wires. The relay does not care which side is line or load.

You have a multi-meter, right?

That screw on the bottom looks like its for mounting the relay to the plate.

Paul
 
stlbeer said:
You are looking at the coil in this picture. The shiny orange part is the coil for pulling the relay closed. There are 2 spade terminal connections there so they can be easily daisy chained together (you probably don't need that though).

On each side, where there are multiple YELLOW spade and screw connections, these are your Line and Load. Pick one side to be Line and one side to be load. Test these with your multi-meter after you have hooked up the coil connections and are able to test the relay BEFORE hooking up other wires. The relay does not care which side is line or load.

You have a multi-meter, right?

That screw on the bottom looks like its for mounting the relay to the plate.

Paul

Ahhhh... I failed to realize that those are for "blade terminals". I was cracking my head open trying to look for screws for ring or spade terminals. In that case ill go exactly by kals diagram as I was before... Orientation the same and all
 
Cacaman said:
Ahhhh... I failed to realize that those are for "blade terminals". I was cracking my head open trying to look for screws for ring or spade terminals. In that case ill go exactly by kals diagram as I was before... Orientation the same and all

Now your winning!
 
So I have begun wiring and I have come across another question. This is what my doorbell transformers look like.



ForumRunner_20130728_094705.png



ForumRunner_20130728_094712.png

I imagine these are the "12 VAC" sides of the transformers.

Does it matter which 2 of these screws lead to the "AC in" in the DC power supply sets?

I am especially concerned with the second one that has 3 screws. Thanks!!
 
I am especially concerned with the second one that has 3 screws. Thanks!!

Regarding the doorbell transformer with 3 screws, of you look closely you should be able to tell how any combination of 2 (of the three) yields a diff voltage. For instance, I think mine were 5v, 8v, and 12v...
 
I am trying to wire the spa panel at this point. 3 prong dryer cord to 4 prong receptacle as seen here:

ForumRunner_20130820_074927.png

A few silly questions but I just want to be 100% sure:

1. Navy blue/red are hots while yellow is neutral?

2. What gauge wire is used to attach to the receptacle I am mounting?

3. Is the "middle" wire neutral, as seen below?


ForumRunner_20130820_075234.png
 
Man, you're scaring me knowing that some day you will power up that panel ;)

I do believe the center wire of that cord is ground. Usually they will have some different marking or physical appearance. But someone in your boat that is so unsure of stuff, why not check it with the multimeter you should have laying around? Sure would be better than attaching a hot to your ground inside the box.
 
Don't assume. Use a multimeter to check and confirm before you wiring anything up/turn anything on.

With the cord UNPLUGGED from the wall, use the continuity tester on your multimeter to check which blade goes to which wire so you don't inadvertently mix things up.

Kal
 
Good call, thanks Kal. Anyone know the answer's to question 1 and 2? :)
 
1) In the drawing, yellow is neutral. The navy blue/black is one of the hot legs.

2) Refer to this document: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/electrical-primer-brewers-145019/

You'll find that the gauge of wire needed is based on the drawing amperage. 30amp is 10AWG. Make sure your outlet is rated for that as well.


Before powering any of this up, make sure you double check all connections with a multimeter.
 
1) In the drawing, yellow is neutral. The navy blue/black is one of the hot legs.

2) Refer to this document: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/electrical-primer-brewers-145019/

You'll find that the gauge of wire needed is based on the drawing amperage. 30amp is 10AWG. Make sure your outlet is rated for that as well.

Before powering any of this up, make sure you double check all connections with a multimeter.

I sure did and look, we have life! ( a few issues though but i'll search before asking)

ForumRunner_20130828_092050.png

edit: i felt the amp meter dc supply heatsink getting hot real quick as i noticed the screen dimming. as i upped the voltage a bit the screen would come back to life but begin to dim faster until i smelled a burnt smell. Now all the amp meter displays is jibberish. I'm pretty sure i fried my amp meter :cross:
 
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