Hunter's Basement E-Brewery Build

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@Roadie -- The pumps will be below the kettles on the lower shelf, so they should just gravity prime when I open the ball valves on the blichmanns. I haven't actually tested it yet though!

@Chocolate -- Glad to hear you're having success with this configuration!
 
Started to assemble the Elements this afternoon, but had to stop for the JB Weld to set. Here's a little bit of assembly from today:

Filing down the tabs on the back to allow the cover plate to sit flush:

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Drilling out the larger holes in the boxes:

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Drilled and tapped for plate cover screws:
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Sanded off the paint to allow the JB Weld to form a good bond:

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Mixing up the JB Weld:

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Sealing up the box, Added some clear silicone around the edge as a secondary barrier against splash/water intrusion:

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Clamped and curing for the evening:

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I'll probably start working on the cords while I'm waiting for this to cure.
 
@Roadie -- The pumps will be below the kettles on the lower shelf, so they should just gravity prime when I open the ball valves on the blichmanns. I haven't actually tested it yet though!

@Chocolate -- Glad to hear you're having success with this configuration!

If you've got ball valves on the kettles, why put them on the pump outlets, too?
 
If you've got ball valves on the kettles, why put them on the pump outlets, too?

Ball valve is on the output, from the recommendations I've read if you're trying to control flow, it should be on the pumps output side (not the inlet side, where the kettles valve is...)
 
Not to be "that guy" (considering I've put together a system exactly 0% as cool as yours is/will be) but wouldn't it be easier to control the ball valves on the output of the chuggers if the valve handles were pointed toward the operator?

Sorry if this is a stupid question.
 
I saw Kal from the electric brewery has those elbows on his setup but I plan on just running mine vertically as I won't be connecting/disconnecting while brewing like the other ends and it just seemed simpler. If my idea doesn't work THEN I'll be doing something similar.
 
Not to be "that guy" (considering I've put together a system exactly 0% as cool as yours is/will be) but wouldn't it be easier to control the ball valves on the output of the chuggers if the valve handles were pointed toward the operator?

Sorry if this is a stupid question.

Not a bad question at all. I consciously rotated them to face backwards as they extended out the front when in the closed position and it was really ackward to operate them. This way, I just grab the handle and pull it forward and it's open. I think it's a matter of taste though, if you setup your pumps, try both ways and choose the way that works best.
 
Not a bad question at all. I consciously rotated them to face backwards as they extended out the front when in the closed position and it was really ackward to operate them. This way, I just grab the handle and pull it forward and it's open. I think it's a matter of taste though, if you setup your pumps, try both ways and choose the way that works best.

As I was typing I thought it might be something like that. Great build! Drooling with envy over here.
 
Hunter,

Sorry to go backwards in your postings but I'm have a hard time with that volt/amp meter you recommend. I've read your reply a dozen times and have stared at your pictures at every angle possible. I'm just not understanding how you have it set up. Is there any way you could draw a dumbed down picture and post it? Lol

Thanks
 
I'm wondering why you have to do so much build work for your elements. Not having done electric brewing before, I was of the impression that elements were something you would purchase, ready to go. Is that not the case? I've considered getting heat sticks to supplement my stove top burner so I can do all grain inside in the winter. But I don't know if I feel it's safe if I build something like this on my own.

You appear to be an electrical engineer or something. I am competent with electrical work, wiring, etc, but I don't have the skill set you have to put this together.
 
I'm wondering why you have to do so much build work for your elements. Not having done electric brewing before, I was of the impression that elements were something you would purchase, ready to go. Is that not the case? I've considered getting heat sticks to supplement my stove top burner so I can do all grain inside in the winter. But I don't know if I feel it's safe if I build something like this on my own.

You appear to be an electrical engineer or something. I am competent with electrical work, wiring, etc, but I don't have the skill set you have to put this together.

Here is a really good write up step by step to put together a heating element:
http://theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements
 
Yep, BKnifeFight nailed it, just bought the DIY element kit to save some money on the build. I'm comfortable enough with working in the shop to do some assembly if it means saving a few bucks.

Although I do have some general DC electronics knowledge, this is my first effort in wiring an AC 240v project of this scale. I think if you have the ability to follow diagrams and pinouts, you'll be in fine shape to build something like this.
 
Hunter,

Sorry to go backwards in your postings but I'm have a hard time with that volt/amp meter you recommend. I've read your reply a dozen times and have stared at your pictures at every angle possible. I'm just not understanding how you have it set up. Is there any way you could draw a dumbed down picture and post it? Lol

Thanks

I tried to illustrate it a bit more clearly here. Basically you want to pull your Voltage reading from the 240v breaker, and you want to put your Ammetere Current Probe around the shared 120v leg in the panel.

01.27.2014-09.35.png
 
Very nice description of the ammeter meter hook up. Now where is that schematic you mentioned? :)
 
I tried to illustrate it a bit more clearly here. Basically you want to pull your Voltage reading from the 240v breaker, and you want to put your Ammetere Current Probe around the shared 120v leg in the panel.

01.27.2014-09.35.png

Thanks man. This definitely clears it up a little. It's quite hard to follow those wires in the pictures. I should have my panel ready to fire up tonight now
 
@docubrew, If I get a few minutes, i'll look into some software to do a decent diagram. I feel like MSPaint might be offensive ;)

On the element construction front, I started to build the cables yesterday night and found that unfortunately, the braided sleeving included in the kit was out of spec. I contacted Ebrewsupply and Ryan has been super helpful in getting this known problem corrected, so I expect I'll be back on track to continue building the elements this weekend.

Basically, the included sleeving was just a hair too small, leaving it about 2ft too short to fully sheath the cables.
 
@trippel-a Visio was the program I had in mind, I'll check it out!

Good news, just got another email from EbrewSupply and they have shipped replacement sheathing (Expandable Braided stuff). It should be here by Thursday so I can continue assembly!

Kudos for Great Service from EbrewSupply.com (Ryan)
 
Thanks! It would appear that this method dedicates a kettle to electric brewing, only. Is that right?

Two of the three kettles are heated directly using the Electric Element. The Mash Tun is heated indirectly using a coil mounted in the HLT. Temperatures in the Mash are monitored by adjusting the HLT temperature throughout.

Boil kettle is directly heated for the duration of the boil.
 
I've been following this thread for weeks, Hunter, and have to say great job! If you ever find time to create a wiring diagram, I'd love to see it. I've been thinking of going electric and your design seems to really hit what I'm looking for.

Again, great job!
 
Thanks! It would appear that this method dedicates a kettle to electric brewing, only. Is that right?

Yes, it pretty much eliminates the option of direct firing the kettle, at least the way mine are put together it does. I suppose you could do it, but it would be risky IMO. The heat from the propane burner coming up around the kettle would get the element box and cable very hot and that's not something you want to happen. Perhaps you could make a large diverter plate in order to resolve that problem though. I just kept my old ugly Coors keggle for direct fire use. There really hasn't been a need for it yet, but if I ever lose power during a brew day or want to brew at another location it will be handy.
 
I used Bobby's 1.5 solder on triclover element holder. Makes it very easy to remove the element if needed plus I can cap the hole to brew at a buddies house on propane. On the flip side I can brew on propane until I get my electric brewery finished :)

Hunter anymore work on the brewery?
 
Sorry for the delay, gents. I did get the expandable sleeving in that was holding up the element build and I got back to work on them yesterday evening. I finished up one of the two elements, but now that the boxes are cured, the other should go relatively quickly.

Wiring up one of the twist lock plugs:
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The weatherproof boxes from Ebrewsupply have the ground lugs in a different place than the reddot branded boxes that Kal used, so I did need to make room for the screws in for the faceplate. Not a big deal, just used a cutoff disc on the dremel to make space for the nut.

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Marking the pilot hole for the QMax punch I used for the element holes:

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Boxes being punched:

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Installing the cable grips on the boxes:

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Crimping on the 12-10 Connectors:

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Element temporarily installed (I'll need to remove it to install it in the pot and apply silicone sealant):

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And the final product, using the ebrewsupply element kit:

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More work this weekend, I'd really like to finish up the build so I can get brewing the following weekend!
 
I did not use the silicone sealant when installing my heating elements and have had no leaking issues. The seal from the o ring is fine. It makes it easier to take apart and clean the element. I occasionally soak it in muryatic acid to clean it up real nice. It's the best thing I've found to clean up a scorched element.
 
Thanks for the feedback. As I compare the blichmann weldless design to the design used on the elements, I just keep noticing the space between the faceplate and the element base which have no rubber conforming seal.

On all of blichmann's weldless designs, it goes:

Machined Face, Oring (surrounded by large shim to hold the o-ring from deforming), Kettle Wall, and finally nut. The oring makes a proof-positive seal for liquid escaping by sealing against the machined face and the kettle wall.

If you have a blichmann brewmometer (weldless) that's a great example of it.

---
Now if I look closely at the Kal design, the element base (a nice flat machined face, sandwiches the outlet faceplate between it and the oring, leaving 1 ungasketed surface. Obviously a ton of people have had success with the design, but it certainly makes me feel that adding silicone is a good bet to ensure that you have safest seal possible against possible water intrusion.

Just my 2c. :)
 
Hunter - coming together very nicely! It's giving me hope for all of the "stuff" I've been collecting in the basement. Curious on the ventilation fan that you picked up. Were you able to wire to the dimmer switch succesfully, and your thoughts on the one that you went with? I guess you'll probably know more once you fire it up for the first time.. But... If the fan you went with works, no shame in saving some $ along the way.

What's the first brew going to be?
 
@ttown

Still haven't hooked up the mains to the brewery wall yet, so I can't comment on the dimmer for the fan. As soon as I get that hooked up, I'll let you know.

I've been debating what I'm going to brew first and at this point I think I've decided on an All-Day IPA clone recipe I found here. I love these big-hoppy lighter IPA's. After the first batch, I'm probably going to run Kal's Electric Pale, which apparently has some really positive feedback as well. :mug:
 
This afternoon, I got the Boil kettle put together! This was the simplest of the Kettles, so I figured that it made a good starting point to cutting into these fancy pots. ;)

Here we go:

Marked off the 1/4 sections on the kettles using a fiberglass tape from the wifes collection of goodies. Started with a pilot hole to guide the large bit:

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Then went to the large bit, for the Qmax punch bolt to pass through:

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And finally, ran the punch through the kettle wall:

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The finished punch-out for the boil element:

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Then I started marking out the temperature probe, this one I piloted and then drilled with my Greenlee Step bit, as it was the only hole that required a 9/16" punch. I couldn't warrant buying the punch for just one hole, so I opted for the quick and dirty step bit.

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Installing the element housing onto the kettle. I did leak test this before applying silicone sealant to the inside of the box, so you won't see the silicone applied in these pictures:

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Element and Probe installed, read for the leak test:

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Here's a major milestone, the first time I've fired the kettle!! Filling from the cold-water filter using one of the hoses I built earlier:

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Setting up the Boil PID (note the EEEE on the other pids, which are not hooked up):

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Bringing the cold water up to mash temperature which isn't really realistic in the boil kettle, but gave me a good test temperature to target:

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Finally, drained the kettle to apply the silicone sealant to the face of the element to prevent rust, to the inside of the junction box to increase the safety factor and seal it up tight, and install the hop-stopper!

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Tomorrow I'm headed to the HLT. Feels like we're close now, so far the panel has performed flawlessly. I see about 22.7a draw on my 245v line when the elements are firing (5500w) and the pumps work great, although I discovered I have a leak in my elbow joint that I need to attend to.

Stay tuned! :rockin:
 
Wow you are making serious headway and everything looks great! Congrats on firing the element, another milestone.
 
Looking at the diagram I have from ebrewsupply it shows both hot legs are powering the Green 220v LED right after the 63a contactor, but your wiring pictures look like you are making that run after the 2 pole breaker. Is this true? If so why did you do it this way?

Thanks!
 
@oatstraw,

I put the leads to the 240v green power light on the din-rail blocks because it was easier. There was no functional difference to putting the connections on the rail blocks vs running them directly to the power inputs.
 
Just to clarify when you say rail blocks are you talking about the DIN terminals or the breaker. This is what I'm seeing in your pictures for the green 220, correct me if I'm wrong.

Power In -> 2 Pole Breaker -> DIN Terminal -> 220v Green.
 
Those 2 gang receptacle boxes are HUGE! I know that's what kal uses but I didnt have any issue using a single gang box wiring my element.
 
Just to clarify when you say rail blocks are you talking about the DIN terminals or the breaker. This is what I'm seeing in your pictures for the green 220, correct me if I'm wrong.

Power In -> 2 Pole Breaker -> DIN Terminal -> 220v Green.

You are correct, after the 2 pole breaker, you'll have your din terminal rail. I tied my light in off each leg of this a the din terminals. Because the 63a input contactor, and the din breakers really shouldn't have more than one wire in the screw down terminals, the din rail (after the breaker) makes the most sense for a reliable and safe connection.
 
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