Upright Freezer for Kegerator?

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BigWhitey_FrostBox

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Did a quick search but couldn't find what I needed. The old fridge I was using as my kegerator went out tonight, and I need to replace it fast. I have an extra full-size, upright, frost-free freezer with a temp controller. Has anyone used one as a kegerator, drilling through the door for the taps? I just want to make sure no coils are in there before I unleash the hole saw:cross:
 
If it is frost free you should be good to go. As long as there are no lights or anything in the door, then you should be clear of electric. There will be no coils to worry about for sure.
 
The problem with upright freezers is that many/most of them have coolant lines built into the shelves. If yours has removable shelves, it shouldn't be too tough. Somewhere on here there was a description of using a cornstarch slurry painted on the sides of a freezer to show where the lines were. Not sure where it is now.

But if you don't see any lines connecting the door to the rest of the freezer, than there aren't any in the door. The coolant would have to have a way to get to and from the compressor after all.
 
Thanks Hermit and ChshreCat, I appreciate the fast responses:mug: As I think about it, it seems like a dumb question 'cause there would have to be hard lines running from the body of the freezer to the door for the refrigerant. That would make it difficult to open and close:drunk: I guess I was just freaking out a little. New kegerator here I come!
 
The problem with upright freezers is that many/most of them have coolant lines built into the shelves. If yours has removable shelves, it shouldn't be too tough. Somewhere on here there was a description of using a cornstarch slurry painted on the sides of a freezer to show where the lines were. Not sure where it is now.

But if you don't see any lines connecting the door to the rest of the freezer, than there aren't any in the door. The coolant would have to have a way to get to and from the compressor after all.

He said frost free so cooling shelves are not an issue on this one.
 
Thanks Hermit and ChshreCat, I appreciate the fast responses:mug: As I think about it, it seems like a dumb question 'cause there would have to be hard lines running from the body of the freezer to the door for the refrigerant. That would make it difficult to open and close:drunk: I guess I was just freaking out a little.

Electric would be your only worry, but usually not at the center of an upright freezer.
 
Did not know that was a requirement for a frost free upright freezer. I'll file that bit of info away for the future. :mug:

Frost free have all of their cooling lines behind a panel so the heater can defrost them. When you look inside it is obvious that there are no coolant lines under any of the shelves. But, if you are looking for an upright freezer to use as a fermenter or kegorator, look for frost free.
 
Frost free have all of their cooling lines behind a panel so the heater can defrost them. When you look inside it is obvious that there are no coolant lines under any of the shelves. But, if you are looking for an upright freezer to use as a fermenter or kegorator, look for frost free.

I'd seen ones that had the tubing in the shelves and some that didn't. Just never noticed the ones without marked as "frost free" and the other's not. Good stuff to know.
 
I have an extra full-size, upright, frost-free freezer with a temp controller. Has anyone used one as a kegerator, drilling through the door for the taps? I just want to make sure no coils are in there before I unleash the hole saw
I use an upright freezer as an aging fridge with sampling taps.
Nothing in the door, only the side walls have the condensor lines.

Freezer3.jpg


Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
is it possible to locate the condensor lines in the side wall and precisely run the shank in an opening or are the generally packed very closely together?
 
I use an upright freezer as an aging fridge with sampling taps.
Nothing in the door, only the side walls have the condensor lines.

Freezer3.jpg


Cheers,
ClaudiusB

This was an old thread, but has anyone drilled through the top of a frost free upright freezer (one with no coolant in the shelves)? I'm looking to put my CO2 up top for more room inside, and I'm super scared of turning this into a brick. I have a high pressure line coming from the tank to a wall mounted primary regulator bank, but it's only 6ft long, so the top is really the only option.

Thoughts?
 
This was an old thread, but has anyone drilled through the top of a frost free upright freezer (one with no coolant in the shelves)? I'm looking to put my CO2 up top for more room inside, and I'm super scared of turning this into a brick. I have a high pressure line coming from the tank to a wall mounted primary regulator bank, but it's only 6ft long, so the top is really the only option.

Thoughts?

If I was designing an upright freezer, I'd put the evaporator lines up high (cold sinks). I think bricking the freezer is a real concern going through the top.

Is replacing the high pressure line and coming up through the bottom of the freezer (where there's likely a drain port you could use) really that big of a problem?

Cheers!
 
I realize I'm posting to an old thread, but I did some extensive searching before starting work on my upright keezer conversion, and found little concrete information from anyone who had successfully done this.

I used a Kenmore/Electrolux freezer model FFU17G9HW0. The service manual showed no lines in the sides of the fridge, but the sides got warm to the touch while it was running, so I knew there had to be something there.

Based on other posts, I was able to put together the concept of using a vodka/corn starch slurry with food coloring to location the lines in the side of the fridge. I used a regular paintbrush to apply the mixture. One "gotcha" I found was that you really can't re-paint/re-coat without starting over. Goop it on heavy and in big strokes, covering lots of surface area. I found that even in a relatively thin mix, I was able to easily locate the lines that run through the side. They only took about 5 minutes to appear, and then stayed there. They were still visible the next day. The lines were spaced about 4" apart, allowing me to drill in between them without toasting my freezer.

Included are pictures of the corn starch showing the lines, a second version of that showing the tap holes, and the final product.

Granted, this method will NOT find the evaporator (cold) lines. I used a dremel tool to cut the inside of the freezer first, just to be safe, then poked around looking for any lines I might be missing, using a screwdriver to carefully remove the foam insulation and then feeling around with my finger until I got to the outside wall.

Hopefully this may help others in the same situation in the future who are considering putting taps on the side of an upright freezer.

LocatingLines.jpg


LocatingLines2.jpg


KegTaps.jpg
 
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