Bizoune
Well-Known Member
So I've got some brass fittings, ball valves, barbs the whole bit. Any reason why I shouldn't build one myself for half of what it would cost me at a homebrew shop? Anything specific that I should watch out for?
DIY CO2 manifold. Good idea?
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ClarnoBrewer
Well-Known Member
I've also wondered this. It's not like you're building a nuclear reactor. It should be easy to leak test. I think I'd want to buy a couple of check valves to add in, but the rest shouldn't be too bad. Let us know if you go for it. Good luck!
conpewter
Well-Known Member
I made mine out of a couple distribution blocks (1 into 2) from harbor freight, 99 cents each. I did spring for the shut-off check valves for each line though.
Where did you get the shut off check valves? I put together the same thing but I used inline check valves so its not very pretty.
nostalgia
Well-Known Member
No reason not to. I've already done it myself. I would recommend check valves as already mentioned. I believe I got mine from Kegconnection.com? It was a while ago, though.
-Joe
WenValley
Well-Known Member
One thing that I discovered when I built my own manifold was that most of the base blocks have the holes drilled too close together. The holes are so close that you can't screw in the adjacent valve because there's no clearance.
One way around this is to mount a valve, then in the next hole insert a 2"x 1/4" brass nipple. Then mount the next valve onto the nipple.
So you end up with two "rows" of valves. One row mounted right onto the base block, and the second row of valves mounted onto the nipples.
I've not had good luck posting photos, but I could give it a go if you're interested.
You can string as many base blocks together as you like, until you run out of room.
Good Luck...
One way around this is to mount a valve, then in the next hole insert a 2"x 1/4" brass nipple. Then mount the next valve onto the nipple.
So you end up with two "rows" of valves. One row mounted right onto the base block, and the second row of valves mounted onto the nipples.
I've not had good luck posting photos, but I could give it a go if you're interested.
You can string as many base blocks together as you like, until you run out of room.
Good Luck...
Grimtas
Well-Known Member
American Beverage Equipment is the best place I've found so far for the check valve assemblies. They are the manufacturer of the ones you buy on the manifolds from the LHBS.
jtrainer
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I too made mine from the blue manifold blocks from Harbor Freight as well. My check/ball valves are from the CHI company Item:05G07313
I have 2 regulators connected one to each block so I can have multiple pressures available. They connect very easy as well. If you use these, most likely the black plugs they have will leak. Don't rely on them.
conpewter
Well-Known Member
I just shopped around the online homebrew shops, looks like there are some other good suggestions above.
chucke
Well-Known Member
Here's what I use-
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96398
Add quick connects at both sides, and a plug underneath.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96398
Add quick connects at both sides, and a plug underneath.
annasdadhockey
Well-Known Member
Can I ask, why the check valves? The "gas in" tube is well above the level of the beer. How would you get backflow, even with a loss of pressure? Not trying to be a smartazz, just trying to understand it.
ClarnoBrewer
Well-Known Member
The check valve keeps sticky liquid out of your regulator. I've definitely gotten some beer in my gas line. There are times when you're moving gear, or when you've pressurized a tank and then shut off the gas, that beer can flow back. It definitely happens. Check valves are super cheap and keep your regulator from getting gummed up.
If you hit a full keg with CO2 to seal the lid, then set it aside to age, then hook it up to a low pressure (12psi) tap, the beer WILL end up in the gas lines.
B
B
jtrainer
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I agree with the 2 posts above this one.... I ran for 2 years without the check valves.... if I ran out of co2 it would bleed the co2 from the other kegs... That was my pissing point, beer in the line was an added PITA.
springer
Well-Known Member
Really don't understand how you would get beer in the gas line. The tube on the gas in port is about 1 inch long and when I fill up a keg there is at least an inch if not more between the gas tube and the beer. So whats it do jump up into the dip tube? I fill up to the top weld on the keg.
annasdadhockey
Well-Known Member
That's kinda what I was getting at.
springer
Well-Known Member
I guess people are filling their kegs to the brim or above the gas tube.
ClarnoBrewer
Well-Known Member
I can't tell you how it happens. I fill my kegs to the weld, but sometimes it gets in there. A little foam, or maybe a little sloshing when rearranging things. I think the point is that it's super cheap insurance. If you're really careful, you may never get beer in your gas line. But I think a check valve is about $2. It beats trying to clean out your regulator. Having said that, I'm sure there are loads of people that don't use them and haven't had problems. I just choose the 'better safe than sorry' route.
ajwillys
Well-Known Member
Here's what I use-
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96398
Add quick connects at both sides, and a plug underneath.
I use the exact same thing, with quick disconnects on all my hoses. I even converted my dual regulator to the same QD's so that I can go directly from force carbing at 35 psi to the manifold with a simple click-click. I use sanke's, so the check valves are built in.
Bizoune
Well-Known Member
Where I'm from, it's impossible to get under 15$ a pop. Souldn't hardware stores have this?
Scut_Monkey
Well-Known Member
This manifold says it has a 1/4" male inlet. Where? I'm assuming the open inlet on the bottom is indeed the inlet and there is not one hidden on the other side. Chucke, are there 5 or 6 holes in this manifold?
Here's what I use-
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96398
Add quick connects at both sides, and a plug underneath.
nostalgia
Well-Known Member
I actually thought my shutoff valves had check valves. I also couldn't understand how beer could back up into the system. Boy was I mistaken on both fronts.
It can be hard to tell the beer level in the kegs when using a foamy sanitizer like Star-san. That can easily lead to overfull kegs. That's why I started using Sani-clean for kegging and Star-san for everything else.
-Joe
Bizoune
Well-Known Member
So if I have one on my reg. outlet do I really need one on all of the outlets of my manifold? Worst case scenario, I suppose beer could make it's way from one keg to the other. But I usally keg half the batch and bottle the rest so the keg is never full.
chucke
Well-Known Member
There are a total of 7 holes.
4 for the Quick Connects that are attached.
Then there's the hole on the right side that's seen. There are 2 that are unseen, one on the left side and one underneath.
ClarnoBrewer
Well-Known Member
SpanishCastleAle
Well-Known Member
In addition to what has been posted, when you carbonate the beer it expands, so even if you filled it to below the gas dip tube if you got really close it might expand enough to reach it. I had that happen once when I was naturally carbing in a keg but luckily it was just a gage that got wet. You could also get a bunch of foam in a keg (which should be a rare occurance if at all) which could reach the dip tube.
I don't use check valves but I really should. But my CO2 tank is outside the keezer and there's quite a bit of line in between. I have shortened a few gas IN dip tubes so that they just barely protrude through the keg port. Some of them are/were already like that.
As for building a manifold; I just used a 1/4" pipe-threaded cross. Three valves connect to three ports and the fourth port is the gas IN port (used a pipe-to-flared-tube fitting there). Each valve has a line that is then split to two lines so with those 3 valves I have a total of 6 gas QDs. My keezer holds 6 kegs so it works OK. I can't dial in different pressures but two of those 6 kegs sit on the hump and aren't quite as cold (thus not quite as carbonated).
I don't use check valves but I really should. But my CO2 tank is outside the keezer and there's quite a bit of line in between. I have shortened a few gas IN dip tubes so that they just barely protrude through the keg port. Some of them are/were already like that.
As for building a manifold; I just used a 1/4" pipe-threaded cross. Three valves connect to three ports and the fourth port is the gas IN port (used a pipe-to-flared-tube fitting there). Each valve has a line that is then split to two lines so with those 3 valves I have a total of 6 gas QDs. My keezer holds 6 kegs so it works OK. I can't dial in different pressures but two of those 6 kegs sit on the hump and aren't quite as cold (thus not quite as carbonated).
Scut_Monkey
Well-Known Member
Chucke, Can you tell me where you bought the male disconnects for attaching to the female disconnects on the manifold. I think this is a pretty good setup and wouldn't mind emulating it. Thanks!
chucke
Well-Known Member
They are standard brass fitting sold at any HD, Lowes or hardware store.
I'm right in the middle of brewing a Scottish Ale right now.... later today I'll post the parts.
dantodd
Well-Known Member
I stuck a beer gas line accidentally to the beverage post on a keg of root beer carbed at 30 psi. Bad news is that I had no check valves on my manifold so I had 3 kegs of beer essentially ruined by having root beer added to them. Good news is that I still had a check valve between the manifold and regulator. If you are certain that you will never make a mistake your biggest risk is probably just a bunch of flat beer. If you are imperfect then check valves are a good idea.
I filled one of my kegs too much (with beer above the gas in tube) and got backflow up the line by messing too much with the PSIs.
I bought some cheap plastic check valves from US Plastics, and added them to my air lines maybe an inch or two above the keg post QD. My beer will never meet my manifold or regulator again...
I bought some cheap plastic check valves from US Plastics, and added them to my air lines maybe an inch or two above the keg post QD. My beer will never meet my manifold or regulator again...
chucke
Well-Known Member
This coupling fits into the Quick Connects that are on the manifold.
(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT)
It is sold at HD and Lowes in the same area where they sell compressors.
While you’re in the compressor area, buy two of these
(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT) for the empty holes on either side of the manifold.
Then you need to connect to your hose. Assuming ¼” ID tubing, go to the plumbing section where they have a crapload of brass fittings mounted on the wall. Get this
(1/4” NPT x 1/4” hose barb)
The male threaded end should screw into the first coupling. (One end is male and the other is female. If they’re out of one, just switch male/females around.)
Also, get enough ¼” ID pressure rated hose to go to the kegs. (Ask the guy that works there.)
You’ll need a ¼” brass plug for the hole in the back.
It will be in plumbing area with the other brass fittings on the wall.
Then, this goes on the other end of the 1/4" ID hose to connect to the Corney keg.
(1/4” hose barb x gas side)
Teflon tape for all the screw connections and hose clamps for all hose/barb connections.
Methinks that does it.
(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT)
It is sold at HD and Lowes in the same area where they sell compressors.
While you’re in the compressor area, buy two of these
(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT) for the empty holes on either side of the manifold.
Then you need to connect to your hose. Assuming ¼” ID tubing, go to the plumbing section where they have a crapload of brass fittings mounted on the wall. Get this
(1/4” NPT x 1/4” hose barb)
The male threaded end should screw into the first coupling. (One end is male and the other is female. If they’re out of one, just switch male/females around.)
Also, get enough ¼” ID pressure rated hose to go to the kegs. (Ask the guy that works there.)
You’ll need a ¼” brass plug for the hole in the back.
It will be in plumbing area with the other brass fittings on the wall.
Then, this goes on the other end of the 1/4" ID hose to connect to the Corney keg.
(1/4” hose barb x gas side)
Teflon tape for all the screw connections and hose clamps for all hose/barb connections.
Methinks that does it.
jeffmeh
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This coupling fits into the Quick Connects that are on the manifold.
(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT)
It is sold at HD and Lowes in the same area where they sell compressors.
While you’re in the compressor area, buy two of these
(1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT) for the empty holes on either side of the manifold.
Then you need to connect to your hose. Assuming ¼” ID tubing, go to the plumbing section where they have a crapload of brass fittings mounted on the wall. Get this
(1/4” NPT x 1/4” hose barb)
The male threaded end should screw into the first coupling. (One end is male and the other is female. If they’re out of one, just switch male/females around.)
Also, get enough ¼” ID pressure rated hose to go to the kegs. (Ask the guy that works there.)
You’ll need a ¼” brass plug for the hole in the back.
It will be in plumbing area with the other brass fittings on the wall.
Then, this goes on the other end of the 1/4" ID hose to connect to the Corney keg.
(1/4” hose barb x gas side)
Teflon tape for all the screw connections and hose clamps for all hose/barb connections.
Methinks that does it.
You referred to the first picture as a (1/4” QC x 1/4” NPT). It looks more like a 1/4" compression fitting x 1/4" male QC. Is that correct? Thanks, this is very helpful.
msaumure
Member
Bizoune,
Try princess auto for parts, it's probably your best bet around here.
Try princess auto for parts, it's probably your best bet around here.
jeffmeh
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Are the check valves MPT x barb, with the airflow going in that direction, that just screw into the blue manifold block? Is there enough horizontal separation to screw one check valve into each FPT hole on the block? Or is your configuration completely different? Thanks.
jtrainer
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This is my Harbor Freight manifold with the CHI Company ball valves w/check valves. I have another with 2 valves on the other side of the kegerator for soda/force carbonating beer.
Yes the co2 flow is from the 1/4 MPT >>>> 1/4 barb. This prevents the co2 from blowing back out of the keg.....
Yes the co2 flow is from the 1/4 MPT >>>> 1/4 barb. This prevents the co2 from blowing back out of the keg.....
jeffmeh
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This is my Harbor Freight manifold with the CHI Company ball valves w/check valves. I have another with 2 valves on the other side of the kegerator for soda/force carbonating beer.
Yes the co2 flow is from the 1/4 MPT >>>> 1/4 barb. This prevents the co2 from blowing back out of the keg.....
Thanks. Just to be sure, does each block have four holes, and are they all 1/4" NPTF? I cannot really tell for sure from your picture or the Harbor Freight one. If I get one, I want to make sure I get the correct fittings. Would I need, from the gas line in, a
- barb x 1/4" NPTM to block
- 1/4 NPTM x barb check valve (two, one for each output)
- 1/4 NPTM plug (to replace the rubber one)?
Actually, I will probably jump two of them together with a 1/4 NPTM x 1/4 NPTM nipple, but if I know the precise configuration for one, I can figure that out. Thanks again.
jtrainer
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Originally I had the blocks connected but only one serving pressure. Now I operate 2 blocks on separate PSIs.
Yes each block has 4 x 1/4 nptf threaded holes. The end hole had a black hex plug that wouldn't stop leaking until I put a brass plug in with liquid pipe dope. I use that when I can't get the tape to seal it right. I repeated on the second block just because so I don't know if it's a common issue to these blocks.
I performed a 10 minute dunk test to ensure no leaks were present.
lombo34
Active Member
I do too...isn't there a check valve in the coupler itself?? I thought so...
camiller
Well-Known Member
This coupling fits into the Quick Connects that are on the manifold.
(1/4 QC x 1/4 NPT)
It is sold at HD and Lowes in the same area where they sell compressors.
While youre in the compressor area, buy two of these
(1/4 QC x 1/4 NPT) for the empty holes on either side of the manifold.
Then you need to connect to your hose. Assuming ¼ ID tubing, go to the plumbing section where they have a crapload of brass fittings mounted on the wall. Get this
(1/4 NPT x 1/4 hose barb)
The male threaded end should screw into the first coupling. (One end is male and the other is female. If theyre out of one, just switch male/females around.)
Also, get enough ¼ ID pressure rated hose to go to the kegs. (Ask the guy that works there.)
Youll need a ¼ brass plug for the hole in the back.
It will be in plumbing area with the other brass fittings on the wall.
Then, this goes on the other end of the 1/4" ID hose to connect to the Corney keg.
(1/4 hose barb x gas side)
Teflon tape for all the screw connections and hose clamps for all hose/barb connections.
Methinks that does it.
You can also get all the quick connect stuff at harbor freight in the same area as the manifold you posted.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?category=426&q=coupler&limit=32
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