How do I properly use a knife sharpener?

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Place the base of the blade near the handle into the slot, pressing down with medium firmness (like you're trying to slice a tomato). Make sure you keep the blade perfectly vertical and draw the handle back toward yourself with even pressure.

You'll have to experiment to see how many strokes it takes. You can test the sharpness by shaving hair off your arm (that's what I always do) or slice a piece of paper and make sure that the cut paper edge is smooth and not torn.
 
All I know is one of these bad boys.

Back and forth, even turns. Get some chaw, and spit on the stone. By the end of Have Gun Will Travel, you will be able to dress a buck in <15 min.

sharpening-stone.jpg
 
Throw it away. Get either a nice setup like the Apex Pro, or a the less expensive spyderco sharpmaker. Also get a nice diamond/steel smooth rod, or the less expensive ceramic rod Note: do NOT buy a serrated steel. If you have one, toss it. They have a place, but most people do it wrong and **** up their edges.). Use the rod for weekly honing, and use the sharpener occasionally for sharpening.

I set my edges with an Apex Pro 3 years ago, and use a have used a diamond steel to keep then in good shape since then. Eventually I'll use the apex to re-set them again, but for general touch-ups the honing rod is what you want.
See this also: http://lifehacker.com/5822608/how-do-i-sharpen-a-kitchen-knife

I'm sure the knife nerd forums can go into much greater depth and scientific analysis, but the above summary is my distillation of spending a lot of hours sifting through them.
 
I too have a sharpener like the one pictured. Depending on how dull your knife has gotten and the current angle(s) of the knifes edge, you may have to pull it through there many, many times. As the edge on your knife starts to match up with the angle of the sharpeners, it will drag then slide, then drag... light pressure and patience will work wonders. Good luck.
 
Use the rod for weekly honing, and use the sharpener occasionally for sharpening.
Right, you should minimize sharpening which is destructive and maximize honing which is sort of recycling. Actually the terminology is all goofed up, but this wiki definition of honing should give the idea:

In terms of sharpening knives, a honing steel does not actually hone knives, but simply realigns the metal along the edge.
 
If it's a cheap ass knife, go for it, drag through with smooth even strokes with moderate pressure... but, I would not let my Japanese steel touch one of those sharpeners.

EDIT: If you hold a piece of paper vertically and can easily slice it by hitting the top edge of paper with a good downward stroke, you're good.

Really though, you'll know if it's sharp enough.
 
I prefer the chef's choice edge craft diamond sharpener/file myself, but any good steel and stone combo is better than most of those ridge sharpeners.
 
Right, you should minimize sharpening which is destructive and maximize honing which is sort of recycling. Actually the terminology is all goofed up, but this wiki definition of honing should give the idea:

Yup... technically, a smooth butcher steel hones, the ceramic rod moreso sharpens, and the diamond steel can kind of do both. All are better than the posted carbide knife raggedizer.
 
Just go through it straight. Place the tip of the knife between the space and then slide through to the hilt. I have a similar one from Amazon and it seems like it doesn't do anything but it really does sharpen the blade.
 
I've had a few weeks with this thing... It never gets sharp enough to shave the hairs off my arms but it works well to prepare for onions etc
 
Ugh. Carbide sharpeners are brutal.
I only use them on totally FUBAR knives just to get them in the ball park.

Get a diamond wheel sharpener like a Chef's Choice and leave more metal on the blade...

Cheers!
 
I've had a few weeks with this thing... It never gets sharp enough to shave the hairs off my arms but it works well to prepare for onions etc

I've been using a worksharp. Loving the results.

Get the worksharp. Use the 220 grit, then the 6000, and I guarantee the worst knife in the kitchen will take the hair off your arm. I use one and it's money.

Better knifes/metal will keep their sharp longer. Some metal will chip easier. But for sharpening, the Worksharp is the way to go.

Work Sharp WSKTS Knife and Tool Sharpener

81yetgD41VL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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Get the worksharp. Use the 220 grit, then the 6000, and I guarantee the worst knife in the kitchen will take the hair off your arm. I use one and it's money.

Better knifes/metal will keep their sharp longer. Some metal will chip easier. But for sharpening, the Worksharp is the way to go.

Work Sharp WSKTS Knife and Tool Sharpener

81yetgD41VL._SL1500_.jpg

on the "SWBMO buy this for me at XMAS list"
 
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For $10-12 you can get a combo stone (100/300 grit) mentioned on page 1 and a piece of fine grained natural slate tile (~$1, +800 grit) and get a very good edge on your blades. Even if you factor in 2 hours learning how to use it you'll come out ahead (assuming your free time isn't worth more than $30/hr) compared to a $70 wonder gadget.

If you're absotively posolutely against learning a new skill Lansky has their deluxe kit on sale on Amazon for ~$35
 
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For $10-12 you can get a combo stone (100/300 grit) mentioned on page 1 and a piece of fine grained natural slate tile (~$1, +800 grit) and get a very good edge on your blades. Even if you factor in 2 hours learning how to use it you'll come out ahead (assuming your free time isn't worth more than $30/hr) compared to a $70 wonder gadget.

If you're absotively posolutely against learning a new skill Lansky has their deluxe kit on sale on Amazon for ~$35

I've got to say that the lansky stuff is pretty darn good, and easy to use. It was my second choice after the apex, but it only costs 1/5th the price.
 
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+1 for the Lansky system. It is simple to use and produces very good, very consistent results for me (been using one for years). Only thing that is a PITA about it is if the angle of your knife edge doesn't match one of the pre-set angles of the guide. A little time and elbow grease with the extra coarse stone and you can put a new angle on the blade. Once the angle of the blade matches one of the sharpening angles it is a breeze to sharpen and keep sharp with the medium-fine-extra fine stones.
 
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